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Immobilizer LED codes
The immobilizer function is indicated by the Code LED on the dash display. The ECU has to obtain authority from the aerial, which is circular and surrounds the ignition lock behind the glovebox panel (active antenna).

Keys should not be on a metal key ring or with other keys. Sometimes this can upset the system.

To Diagnose the system, turn the ignition on with a Normal key (not the master key) and note the LED on the dash.

Listed below are what options the LED will show. Find out what yours does, get the reference letter (i.e. yours is doing as described in C... then go further down for more details on the fault and cure)

A= Single 2sec flash, then LED stays OFF.

B= Single 2sec flash, then 2 quick 0.5sec flashes, then LED stays ON.

C= Single 0.7sec flash, then 1 quick 0.5sec flash, then LED stays ON.

D= Single 0.7sec flash, then 2 quick 0.5sec flashes, then LED stays ON.

E= Single 0.7sec flash, then 3 quick 0.5sec flashes, then LED stays ON.

Further details on the codes above...

A= ECU is not programmed.
The LED gives a single two second flash. The Engine management light will be on.
You should get this code when you have fitted a new ECU.
The immobiliser system is working correctly and only needs programming.

B= ECU is not programmed. Transponder is not detected.
The LED gives a single two second flash, then two short flashes, then comes back on..
The ECU is not programmed (as above) but also the chip in the key has not been detected.
You must resolve the transponder problem before trying to program the ECU.
The master key will give this fault if the chip is hinged out.
If you have another key try that, if it is still not detected it is probably the aerial.
Verify that the aerial is correctly located and secure in it's mounting around the ignition lock.

C= Break in the Serial line.
A single short flash, pause, then a second short flash, LED then comes back on.
There is a break in the wire between the ECU and the aerial (active antenna).
The Orange / White wire on pin 7. is the link.

D= Transponder is not detected.
A single short flash, then two short flashes, then comes back on.
The chip in the key has not been seen.
Either there is a fault with the key or the aerial.
If you have another key try that, if it is still not detected it is probably the aerial.
Verify that the aerial is correctly located and secure in it's mounting around the ignition lock.

E= Transponder is not recognised.
A single short flash, then three short flashes, then comes back on.
The chip in the key is seen be is not recognized.
The key is not programmed into the immobiliser memory.
You are using the wrong key or it needs to be programmed into the immobiliser memory.

Only when the LED remains OFF should the engine start.

Dealers can use the Digitec or Axone tester to read fault codes from the ECU about the problem, but it doesn't tell us much more than the above info, although you can see how many keys there are coded to the ECU, etc.

If you have a immobilizer fault that just suddenly appears, and its LED flashing code works out to be A in the above table, then before you try anything else, check the HT lead and plug cap, It is possible that extreme electrical interference from a faulty HT circuit could upset the immobiliser. Plug cap must be at least 5000Ω. Change the cap and lead if suspect. A resistor spark plug must be used. Then try re-programming the immobiliser. If it will not re-program then it is faulty.

A normal fully working machine should do the following LED sequence:
SERVICE Key ON, One short 0.7sec flash then LED OFF… Machine will start and run.

Or if you use the master key:
Master Key ON, One short 0.7sec flash, then a number of short 0.5sec flashes then LED OFF - machine will start and run. (the number of short 0.5sec flashes depends on the number of keys you have coded to the system, upto a maximum of 7; so 2 flashes means 2 working keys, and so on).
Last Updated Mon Aug 08, 2011 4:45 pm
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