Sat, 26 Apr 2014 10:35:00 +0000

Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: Thu, 01 Dec 2011 00:47:42 +0000
Posts: 8427
Location: Victoria, Australia
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: Thu, 01 Dec 2011 00:47:42 +0000
Posts: 8427
Location: Victoria, Australia
Sat, 26 Apr 2014 10:35:00 +0000 quote
Scooter-Center wrote:
Who it exaggerates when tightening the screws, could have to fight later with a slide is stuck. All newer SI carburetor have already experienced an improvement, so that the screw head can not act directly on the slide guide.

This is indicated by a small undercut. This trick can also be applied to the older carburetor.
Mon, 12 May 2014 09:52:14 +0000

Veni, Vidi, Posti
a not so normal vbb2 '64, a weirdo vbx '86, a not so normal pts100 '82 and a yellow sunshine '74 sprint
Joined: Mon, 15 Jun 2009 15:12:19 +0000
Posts: 5794
Location: Indo
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
a not so normal vbb2 '64, a weirdo vbx '86, a not so normal pts100 '82 and a yellow sunshine '74 sprint
Joined: Mon, 15 Jun 2009 15:12:19 +0000
Posts: 5794
Location: Indo
Mon, 12 May 2014 09:52:14 +0000 quote
in order to save the new paint from scratch everytime i took of the barrel, i simply cut the fin off



have a nice day to you all and cheer
Mon, 12 May 2014 17:27:33 +0000

bodgemaster
63 GL, 76 Super (x2), 74 Primavera (x2), 79 P200, 06 Fly 150
Joined: Thu, 26 Sep 2013 22:01:08 +0000
Posts: 6984
Location: So Cal
 
bodgemaster
63 GL, 76 Super (x2), 74 Primavera (x2), 79 P200, 06 Fly 150
Joined: Thu, 26 Sep 2013 22:01:08 +0000
Posts: 6984
Location: So Cal
Mon, 12 May 2014 17:27:33 +0000 quote
Want an unbelievably easy and fast way to clean oily gunk and grime off your engine, carb and other parts?

This stuff is unreal. I have tried many cleaners, degreasers, chemicals, all with varying success. This literally melts away the gunk and it evaporates quickly without leaving a dripping mess. Made for cleaning sensitive MAF sensors so very safe on rubber, plastic and paint. About $8 a can. A must have for clean freaks.
Mon, 12 May 2014 21:42:43 +0000

Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: Thu, 01 Dec 2011 00:47:42 +0000
Posts: 8427
Location: Victoria, Australia
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: Thu, 01 Dec 2011 00:47:42 +0000
Posts: 8427
Location: Victoria, Australia
Mon, 12 May 2014 21:42:43 +0000 quote
SoCalGuy wrote:
About $8 a can...
Stuff is just so cheap there SCG. It's unbeleivable sometimes. This is a typical price from a national parts & accessories store.
Tue, 13 May 2014 01:16:26 +0000

Addicted
1990's 50s + DR 85
Joined: Fri, 24 Feb 2012 11:01:15 +0000
Posts: 558
Location: auckland, new zealand
 
Addicted
1990's 50s + DR 85
Joined: Fri, 24 Feb 2012 11:01:15 +0000
Posts: 558
Location: auckland, new zealand
Tue, 13 May 2014 01:16:26 +0000 quote
$21,99 for the 400ml can in NZ at the same brand store as Ginch
OP
Thu, 15 May 2014 20:55:56 +0000

Style Maven
'74 50s x3 '78 P200 E '84 Cosa '91 PK50XL2 - & - '58 AllState '68 Sprint '66(?) Super125 and '72 DanMotor Super150
Joined: Tue, 23 Nov 2010 02:37:37 +0000
Posts: 9422
Location: seattle/athens
 
Style Maven
'74 50s x3 '78 P200 E '84 Cosa '91 PK50XL2 - & - '58 AllState '68 Sprint '66(?) Super125 and '72 DanMotor Super150
Joined: Tue, 23 Nov 2010 02:37:37 +0000
Posts: 9422
Location: seattle/athens
Thu, 15 May 2014 20:55:56 +0000 quote
Headset assembly
I used to have a hell of a time getting that little hairpin clip thru those two tiny holes when assembling the throttle/shift tubes & the end piece that gets the cable ends. Then I started doing this and it's much easier now.
You can see the tip is ground to a blunt point
OP
Thu, 15 May 2014 21:10:45 +0000

Style Maven
'74 50s x3 '78 P200 E '84 Cosa '91 PK50XL2 - & - '58 AllState '68 Sprint '66(?) Super125 and '72 DanMotor Super150
Joined: Tue, 23 Nov 2010 02:37:37 +0000
Posts: 9422
Location: seattle/athens
 
Style Maven
'74 50s x3 '78 P200 E '84 Cosa '91 PK50XL2 - & - '58 AllState '68 Sprint '66(?) Super125 and '72 DanMotor Super150
Joined: Tue, 23 Nov 2010 02:37:37 +0000
Posts: 9422
Location: seattle/athens
Thu, 15 May 2014 21:10:45 +0000 quote
Float needle seat refurbished
When you try a new float needle and your carb still leaks, you probably just need a new float bowl top where the other half of the float valve is located. Not usually a problem if you have a largeframe but on a smallie it means the whole carb body .

That wasn't possible on my latest project so I did something I've had pretty good luck with in the past, smallframe and largeframe carbs too.
Use a bamboo shish kebab skewer in your drill for a minute or so and burnish the needle seat.
Here's a used & an unused one, you can see the black ring made by the valve seat. I just used the stick, no compounds or even water. It should make the seat smooth and round, but the same profile it already had.
Thu, 15 May 2014 21:20:35 +0000

Hooked
Currently Vespaless
Joined: Fri, 25 Apr 2014 01:08:12 +0000
Posts: 277
Location: Toronto
 
Hooked
Currently Vespaless
Joined: Fri, 25 Apr 2014 01:08:12 +0000
Posts: 277
Location: Toronto
Thu, 15 May 2014 21:20:35 +0000 quote
Ginch wrote:
SoCalGuy wrote:
About $8 a can...
Stuff is just so cheap there SCG. It's unbeleivable sometimes. This is a typical price from a national parts & accessories store.
$7.99 at Canadian Tire. Even cheaper than the USA price since it's in CAD$. Sometimes it's good to be America Light.
Thu, 15 May 2014 22:38:46 +0000

Addicted
1990's 50s + DR 85
Joined: Fri, 24 Feb 2012 11:01:15 +0000
Posts: 558
Location: auckland, new zealand
 
Addicted
1990's 50s + DR 85
Joined: Fri, 24 Feb 2012 11:01:15 +0000
Posts: 558
Location: auckland, new zealand
Thu, 15 May 2014 22:38:46 +0000 quote
Re: Headset assembly
V oodoo wrote:
I used to have a hell of a time getting that little hairpin clip thru those two tiny holes when assembling the throttle/shift tubes & the end piece that gets the cable ends. Then I started doing this and it's much easier now.
Don't do what I did in the same situation recently.
Don't drill out the holes because you get slop in the shifter handle when shifting.
Don't partly flatten the sprung washer because the shifter handle doesn't sit snug to the headset
Fri, 16 May 2014 03:19:46 +0000

Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: Thu, 01 Dec 2011 00:47:42 +0000
Posts: 8427
Location: Victoria, Australia
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: Thu, 01 Dec 2011 00:47:42 +0000
Posts: 8427
Location: Victoria, Australia
Fri, 16 May 2014 03:19:46 +0000 quote
Test a clutch seal in place
Not sure if this or something similar is in this thread already... had a quick scan and didn't see it.
blackbart wrote:
Blowing Seals/Vaping

If you blow into that breather tube, you should become red-faced and not be able to continue to blow.

A little more crude, if you suck on the breather tube, a vacuum should develop, and if you stick your tongue on the end of it, the vacuum should remain for a while.
That's assuming the seal is in good condition. I've also read somewhere here that simply putting your finger over the end while it's running will make a difference to the idle if your seal is no good.

Fri, 16 May 2014 09:06:37 +0000

Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: Thu, 01 Dec 2011 00:47:42 +0000
Posts: 8427
Location: Victoria, Australia
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: Thu, 01 Dec 2011 00:47:42 +0000
Posts: 8427
Location: Victoria, Australia
Fri, 16 May 2014 09:06:37 +0000 quote
Testing autolube function
xantufrog wrote:
You can test the autolube "on the bench" by unhooking the carb throttle slide from the throttle cable/oil metering arm. When you do this and roll the throttle open it increases the oil metering rate but the engine remains at idle. You should see the cloud of 2t smoke increase palpably if you do this and your autolube is working.
Wed, 28 May 2014 21:57:18 +0000

Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: Thu, 01 Dec 2011 00:47:42 +0000
Posts: 8427
Location: Victoria, Australia
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: Thu, 01 Dec 2011 00:47:42 +0000
Posts: 8427
Location: Victoria, Australia
Wed, 28 May 2014 21:57:18 +0000 quote
Removing rear wheel with SIP road fitted
I put this here 1, because it's useful and 2, because Scooter Central could be closing down soon.
Pi- wrote:
Hello,
It's my trick for easy change of the rear wheel with the double trumpet SIP Road ! :tiphat:

There is a copy :



Tu as acheté un Sip Road avec 2 trompinettes et tu te dis que quand tu vas vouloir démonter ta roue arrière tu vas en chier ?

Que nenni , regarde :


Voilà l'objet ...





... Que tu coupes (à la scie à métaux) sans pitié





Tu trouves un bout de tube d'acier de 16mm intérieur





Tu en coupes 2 morceaux d'environ 3 cm de long
Que tu emmanches et soudes aux extrémités des trompinettes (toujours solidaires et au bon écartement puisque maintenues par la plaque en ferraille)





Après avoir percé , tu soudes maintenant 2 écrous





Dans lesquels viendront des vis qui dépasseront donc ainsi :
(tu les couperas par la suite à une longueur adéquate ou les choisiras de la bonne longueur)





Un petit coup de peinture haute-température





Et hop , tes trompinettes sont désormais démontables en 10 secondes mais néanmoins solidement fixées au pot par les vis en appui sur les 2 sorties.





Il ne reste plus qu'à s'émerveiller :
[size=75](et , à part pour les hérissons, les vis sont quasi-invisibles)





Pi- wrote:
I have done 7000km since this modification without any re-tihtening ...
Wed, 28 May 2014 23:10:59 +0000

Hooked
72 Euro Rally 180 - 74 USA Rally 200 - 1966 SS 180
Joined: Sun, 16 Aug 2009 12:00:34 +0000
Posts: 396
Location: Detroit
 
Hooked
72 Euro Rally 180 - 74 USA Rally 200 - 1966 SS 180
Joined: Sun, 16 Aug 2009 12:00:34 +0000
Posts: 396
Location: Detroit
Wed, 28 May 2014 23:10:59 +0000 quote
SoCalGuy wrote:
Want an unbelievably easy and fast way to clean oily gunk and grime off your engine, carb and other parts?

This stuff is unreal. I have tried many cleaners, degreasers, chemicals, all with varying success. This literally melts away the gunk and it evaporates quickly without leaving a dripping mess. Made for cleaning sensitive MAF sensors so very safe on rubber, plastic and paint. About $8 a can. A must have for clean freaks.
I just bought a can of this but it's electrical contact cleaner, worked like a charm.
Tue, 10 Jun 2014 00:55:54 +0000

Addicted
1990's 50s + DR 85
Joined: Fri, 24 Feb 2012 11:01:15 +0000
Posts: 558
Location: auckland, new zealand
 
Addicted
1990's 50s + DR 85
Joined: Fri, 24 Feb 2012 11:01:15 +0000
Posts: 558
Location: auckland, new zealand
Tue, 10 Jun 2014 00:55:54 +0000 quote
Timing without the wheel
I picked this tip up from a video on setting the timing on a Puch moped.

If you dont have a timing wheel, you can measure the circumference of your flywheel and divide by 360 to get mm per degree, then multiply by your required BTDC. Measure the circumference by either a dressmakers type tape, or use 2 x pi x radius.

For example, my flywheel measures about 520mm around.

520 / 360 x 19 = 27.444.....my BTDC is 27,4mm away from my TDC mark.

Puch make it even easier, as their flywheels were/are 360mm around the outside...exactly 1mm per degree
Sat, 14 Jun 2014 05:46:04 +0000

Hooked
'80 Bajaj chetak, '05 LML
Joined: Sun, 19 Dec 2010 11:07:45 +0000
Posts: 486
Location: Sydney
 
Hooked
'80 Bajaj chetak, '05 LML
Joined: Sun, 19 Dec 2010 11:07:45 +0000
Posts: 486
Location: Sydney
Sat, 14 Jun 2014 05:46:04 +0000 quote
Cheapo flywheel holder
A piece of rope.....
Sat, 14 Jun 2014 06:39:33 +0000

Evil
p2, jet2, lml166
Joined: Sat, 18 May 2013 03:47:28 +0000
Posts: 666
Location: Philadelphia, United States
 
Evil
p2, jet2, lml166
Joined: Sat, 18 May 2013 03:47:28 +0000
Posts: 666
Location: Philadelphia, United States
Sat, 14 Jun 2014 06:39:33 +0000 quote
rope flywheel holder: do explain a little more if you please
Sat, 14 Jun 2014 06:57:36 +0000

Hooked
'80 Bajaj chetak, '05 LML
Joined: Sun, 19 Dec 2010 11:07:45 +0000
Posts: 486
Location: Sydney
 
Hooked
'80 Bajaj chetak, '05 LML
Joined: Sun, 19 Dec 2010 11:07:45 +0000
Posts: 486
Location: Sydney
Sat, 14 Jun 2014 06:57:36 +0000 quote
Not much to explain. A loop of rope around outside edge of flywheel positioned so that the more it's turned the more the rope tightens and grips. Works well to help loosen or tighten the flywheel nut. Picture above shows rope positioned when removing nut. Happy days.
Sat, 14 Jun 2014 10:31:27 +0000

Addicted
1990's 50s + DR 85
Joined: Fri, 24 Feb 2012 11:01:15 +0000
Posts: 558
Location: auckland, new zealand
 
Addicted
1990's 50s + DR 85
Joined: Fri, 24 Feb 2012 11:01:15 +0000
Posts: 558
Location: auckland, new zealand
Sat, 14 Jun 2014 10:31:27 +0000 quote
I noticed on one of the SIP workshop videos that he just smacks the end of the wrench to break it loose, without any flywheel holder. Just how tight should the nut be?
Sat, 14 Jun 2014 13:38:05 +0000

Enthusiast
'69 Vespa Sprint, '59 Lambretta LI125 (S1)
Joined: Tue, 12 Feb 2013 04:19:20 +0000
Posts: 90
Location: Louisville, KY, USA
 
Enthusiast
'69 Vespa Sprint, '59 Lambretta LI125 (S1)
Joined: Tue, 12 Feb 2013 04:19:20 +0000
Posts: 90
Location: Louisville, KY, USA
Sat, 14 Jun 2014 13:38:05 +0000 quote
Impact (like from a hammer) is a great way to loosen nuts on parts that can turn. The inertia of the flywheel and engine resist the sudden application of torque. I would specifically not use impact on a part held with a rigid flywheel holder, because it could damage the flywheel. (In both cases I am talking about hitting the wrench, not the your scooter. Same logic applies to impact drivers.)

You can find torque specs at the bottom of this page: http://www.vespamaintenance.com/specs.html

Not sure how that translates to hammer whacks. I use a 16 oz ball pein for mechanical stuff and I'd say three moderate whacks on the wrench. Your hammer and whacks may vary. For unknown parts, the recommendation is usually to fully compress the lock washer, not that you can see it on the flywheel.
OP
Fri, 20 Jun 2014 01:55:35 +0000

Style Maven
'74 50s x3 '78 P200 E '84 Cosa '91 PK50XL2 - & - '58 AllState '68 Sprint '66(?) Super125 and '72 DanMotor Super150
Joined: Tue, 23 Nov 2010 02:37:37 +0000
Posts: 9422
Location: seattle/athens
 
Style Maven
'74 50s x3 '78 P200 E '84 Cosa '91 PK50XL2 - & - '58 AllState '68 Sprint '66(?) Super125 and '72 DanMotor Super150
Joined: Tue, 23 Nov 2010 02:37:37 +0000
Posts: 9422
Location: seattle/athens
Fri, 20 Jun 2014 01:55:35 +0000 quote
Sprint & similar engine assembly
Just to review so you don't forget something. I found this helpful on my current project, a refurbished GL motor. Thanks, Patrick.
oopsclunkthud wrote:
The blue haynes manual covers these engines very well.

1. both bearings go onto the crank
2. heat the clutch side case till water sizzles (I use a small squeeze bottle to test). before it cools down:
a. install the clutch side oil seal
b. install the crank
c. if you find you need to add more heat after installing the seal, do it from the clutch side and avoid the seal.
3. assemble the rest of the engine, gears... but not the clutch.
4. place the kickstart gear on the layshaft and the case gasket on the clutch side case
5. heat the fly side case till water sizzles. before it cools down:
a. install the clutch flywheel side oil seal (I put a bit of hylomar in the crease of the metal flange of the seal.
b. depress the kickstart lever
c. close the cases, make sure the crank, lay shaft, and final drive all line up with the fly side case.
d. After the case is closed (light taps with a soft hammer) make sure everything turns and then install the 4-5 nuts around the crank area and tighten them snug plus a bit.
e. make sure everything still turns and that the kickstart ratchets correctly, then torque the nuts around the crank
6. install and torque the rest of the case bolts.

There is a lot going on in step 5 in a very short amount of time so think it through and lay everything out.
Hold on now,make sure you remember this plastic thing if it's a P series:

(maybe included in step 3, but don't forget it)
⚠️ Last edited by V oodoo on Fri, 20 Jun 2014 19:26:13 +0000; edited 1 time
Fri, 20 Jun 2014 02:56:42 +0000

Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: Thu, 01 Dec 2011 00:47:42 +0000
Posts: 8427
Location: Victoria, Australia
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: Thu, 01 Dec 2011 00:47:42 +0000
Posts: 8427
Location: Victoria, Australia
Fri, 20 Jun 2014 02:56:42 +0000 quote
At 5a I think it's meant to say flywheel side oil seal, not clutch. Great guide.
Fri, 20 Jun 2014 04:22:04 +0000

Ossessionato
'70 Super 150, Medley 150S, Moto Guzzi Bellagio
Joined: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 00:05:43 +0000
Posts: 2521
Location: Sydney, Australia
 
Ossessionato
'70 Super 150, Medley 150S, Moto Guzzi Bellagio
Joined: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 00:05:43 +0000
Posts: 2521
Location: Sydney, Australia
Fri, 20 Jun 2014 04:22:04 +0000 quote
Re: Cheapo flywheel holder
Warhorse wrote:
A piece of rope.....
Where would we be without Parramatta rope Phil?
Fri, 20 Jun 2014 07:35:58 +0000

Hooked
'80 Bajaj chetak, '05 LML
Joined: Sun, 19 Dec 2010 11:07:45 +0000
Posts: 486
Location: Sydney
 
Hooked
'80 Bajaj chetak, '05 LML
Joined: Sun, 19 Dec 2010 11:07:45 +0000
Posts: 486
Location: Sydney
Fri, 20 Jun 2014 07:35:58 +0000 quote
Re: Cheapo flywheel holder
Bobo wrote:
Warhorse wrote:
A piece of rope.....
Where would we be without Parramatta rope Phil?
Only the finest of ropes for me

Somebody gifted me a whole roll a while ago so I'm set for life.
OP
Mon, 30 Jun 2014 03:53:40 +0000

Style Maven
'74 50s x3 '78 P200 E '84 Cosa '91 PK50XL2 - & - '58 AllState '68 Sprint '66(?) Super125 and '72 DanMotor Super150
Joined: Tue, 23 Nov 2010 02:37:37 +0000
Posts: 9422
Location: seattle/athens
 
Style Maven
'74 50s x3 '78 P200 E '84 Cosa '91 PK50XL2 - & - '58 AllState '68 Sprint '66(?) Super125 and '72 DanMotor Super150
Joined: Tue, 23 Nov 2010 02:37:37 +0000
Posts: 9422
Location: seattle/athens
Mon, 30 Jun 2014 03:53:40 +0000 quote
splitting your cases
Bluecati wrote:
Is there a wee gap already in the cases indicating it has STARTED to move?? DONT force anything in between the halves.If there is no gap then push the kickstart down a bit or rotate the gears/wheel so the cruciform doesn't hold on
The reason it wont separate anymore is usually due to one of the main bearings jamming in the cases or jammed on the crank
I prefer to put hot scalding rags on the cases on the "bubble" behind the stator on the fly side(that s where said bearing is housed.) the cases will heat up and expand faster than the bearing or crank.
the cases will separate and youll either have the crank out with bearing on it.....or with the bearing still in the case half.
I actually boil the rags in a saucepan..lift them out with tongs and then lay it on the cases in a circle . then start gentle tapping with a rubber or copper mallet. Manipulate the entire motor so one case half so its locked solid against something firm.(and soft like wood) then all your little taps will be directed to the bearing and not slowly skidding the engine across the bench.
good luck
youll have it apart in the time it takes to post the tool...which also needs heat anyway.
Ive done close to 20 rebuilds with the rags method...and no special tool
This seems simple, safe for the motor, relatively safe for me & it's proven. Gonna try it soon.
Mon, 30 Jun 2014 04:07:21 +0000

Veni, Vidi, Posti
px200 cutdown,px180,px150. Puch SR. Puch scooterette
Joined: Wed, 08 Apr 2009 08:40:28 +0000
Posts: 5109
Location: west aus
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
px200 cutdown,px180,px150. Puch SR. Puch scooterette
Joined: Wed, 08 Apr 2009 08:40:28 +0000
Posts: 5109
Location: west aus
Mon, 30 Jun 2014 04:07:21 +0000 quote
Re: Cheapo flywheel holder
Warhorse wrote:
Bobo wrote:
Warhorse wrote:
A piece of rope.....
Where would we be without Parramatta rope Phil?
Only the finest of ropes for me

Somebody gifted me a whole roll a while ago so I'm set for life.
lol
OP
Sun, 13 Jul 2014 05:23:41 +0000

Style Maven
'74 50s x3 '78 P200 E '84 Cosa '91 PK50XL2 - & - '58 AllState '68 Sprint '66(?) Super125 and '72 DanMotor Super150
Joined: Tue, 23 Nov 2010 02:37:37 +0000
Posts: 9422
Location: seattle/athens
 
Style Maven
'74 50s x3 '78 P200 E '84 Cosa '91 PK50XL2 - & - '58 AllState '68 Sprint '66(?) Super125 and '72 DanMotor Super150
Joined: Tue, 23 Nov 2010 02:37:37 +0000
Posts: 9422
Location: seattle/athens
Sun, 13 Jul 2014 05:23:41 +0000 quote
Tire installation
spiderwebb wrote:
rob hodge wrote:
dilute dish soap and squirt or wipe it on the bead/rim before inflating. about 50/50 with water, more water if yo want to try and use a spray bottle to get it where you need it.

this will lubricate the bead so it can slide into place.
-1
I used to do this but never again after a few horror stories

don't use soap as that can cause future issues of the tire rotating on the rim = pop



I use ultra holding hair spray
works great
drys and won't cause future issues

spray on the rims 1/2
build it all up as is normal
make sure tube is not getting pinched
add air and watch as the bead seats itself was easily = about 40psi

remove air to psi you want

done

I've used soap & water too but I will try this.
Had a few tires spin a little bit when pressure was on the low side, enough to damage the tube stem = flat tire.
Sun, 13 Jul 2014 09:06:03 +0000

Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: Thu, 01 Dec 2011 00:47:42 +0000
Posts: 8427
Location: Victoria, Australia
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: Thu, 01 Dec 2011 00:47:42 +0000
Posts: 8427
Location: Victoria, Australia
Sun, 13 Jul 2014 09:06:03 +0000 quote
TYRE installation
Warhorse wrote:
I use talc powder rather than dish soap. Same result but keeps things nice and dry. I also rub talc over the tube so it moves freely within the tire and doesn't get caught anywhere.
Different perspective - This is my preference too, I don't like the idea of moisture inbetween rim/tyre/tube.
Tue, 15 Jul 2014 01:25:30 +0000

Addicted
Old douglas ..smallie with polini 115..super with nasco 177
Joined: Fri, 08 Nov 2013 01:18:24 +0000
Posts: 683
Location: New Zealand
 
Addicted
Old douglas ..smallie with polini 115..super with nasco 177
Joined: Fri, 08 Nov 2013 01:18:24 +0000
Posts: 683
Location: New Zealand
Tue, 15 Jul 2014 01:25:30 +0000 quote
the original pin that hold the boot cover on Super..is just right to use as a tool to tidy up your legsheild trim. the arc of the head of the pin matches the internal arc of the trim
Tue, 15 Jul 2014 01:29:47 +0000

Addicted
Old douglas ..smallie with polini 115..super with nasco 177
Joined: Fri, 08 Nov 2013 01:18:24 +0000
Posts: 683
Location: New Zealand
 
Addicted
Old douglas ..smallie with polini 115..super with nasco 177
Joined: Fri, 08 Nov 2013 01:18:24 +0000
Posts: 683
Location: New Zealand
Tue, 15 Jul 2014 01:29:47 +0000 quote
If you are rebuilding a speedo and fitting a new bezel (metal surround) turn the speedo up side down and use the speedo hole in the head as a jig/support.It holds it all in place nicely as you bend the bezel into place .....tap a tap tap tap tap the bezel edge home. Mint
Tape the area with duct tape if your concerned about paint.
Tue, 15 Jul 2014 14:16:52 +0000

bodgemaster
63 GL, 76 Super (x2), 74 Primavera (x2), 79 P200, 06 Fly 150
Joined: Thu, 26 Sep 2013 22:01:08 +0000
Posts: 6984
Location: So Cal
 
bodgemaster
63 GL, 76 Super (x2), 74 Primavera (x2), 79 P200, 06 Fly 150
Joined: Thu, 26 Sep 2013 22:01:08 +0000
Posts: 6984
Location: So Cal
Tue, 15 Jul 2014 14:16:52 +0000 quote
I'm curious how Veglia puts the bezel on at the factory. The pressed fit is impressively tight.
OP
Thu, 24 Jul 2014 23:09:25 +0000

Style Maven
'74 50s x3 '78 P200 E '84 Cosa '91 PK50XL2 - & - '58 AllState '68 Sprint '66(?) Super125 and '72 DanMotor Super150
Joined: Tue, 23 Nov 2010 02:37:37 +0000
Posts: 9422
Location: seattle/athens
 
Style Maven
'74 50s x3 '78 P200 E '84 Cosa '91 PK50XL2 - & - '58 AllState '68 Sprint '66(?) Super125 and '72 DanMotor Super150
Joined: Tue, 23 Nov 2010 02:37:37 +0000
Posts: 9422
Location: seattle/athens
Thu, 24 Jul 2014 23:09:25 +0000 quote
Vespa Manuals
This is golden! Thanks a million, Alex.
culturesponge wrote:
...

Vespa workshop manuals & books : https://www.flickr.com/photos/culturesponge/collections/72157594588640890/

good luck
best
alex
@ SoCal: They would likely use a forming die in a small press to crimp the underneath edge. Two piece die but a little bit like Bluecati describes using the recess in the headset as a die to hold and shape the bezel when reassembling(great idea, wish I'd known that when I had to reassemble a ruined speedo used as a placeholder)
Sat, 26 Jul 2014 02:36:03 +0000

Addicted
Joined: Wed, 11 Jun 2014 18:44:38 +0000
Posts: 903

 
Addicted
Joined: Wed, 11 Jun 2014 18:44:38 +0000
Posts: 903

Sat, 26 Jul 2014 02:36:03 +0000 quote
3/8" OD x 1/4" ID vinyl tubing works well for the rear cowl peg buffers on the P series. A little stiffer than the stock rubber tubing buffers, so it's easier to use the whole roll to push it on, then cut to size. Seems tougher then the rubber tubing, too.
Sat, 26 Jul 2014 03:45:56 +0000

Hooked
Gran Sport, VMA, PX & GTS
Joined: Mon, 15 May 2006 22:03:34 +0000
Posts: 276
Location: brit in southern california
 
Hooked
Gran Sport, VMA, PX & GTS
Joined: Mon, 15 May 2006 22:03:34 +0000
Posts: 276
Location: brit in southern california
Sat, 26 Jul 2014 03:45:56 +0000 quote
keep on keeping on Nolan Porter+Ruby Johnson+Curtis Mayfield
V oodoo wrote:
This is golden! Thanks a million, Alex. :clap:
no probs, share the knowledge imho

link: https://www.flickr.com/photos/culturesponge/collections/72157594588640890/

flickr downloader : https://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&q=flickr+downloader&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&gws_rd=ssl

best
alex

(edits to add link to flickr downloader, add screenshot of page & fix typo)
⚠️ Last edited by culturesponge on Thu, 31 Jul 2014 18:06:26 +0000; edited 3 times
Sat, 26 Jul 2014 05:03:56 +0000

Enthusiast
2005 GT200 2006 GT200
Joined: Tue, 08 Jul 2014 13:14:22 +0000
Posts: 93
Location: SW TN.
 
Enthusiast
2005 GT200 2006 GT200
Joined: Tue, 08 Jul 2014 13:14:22 +0000
Posts: 93
Location: SW TN.
Sat, 26 Jul 2014 05:03:56 +0000 quote
Is the cover coming off your key? I bought a can of PlastiDip and put 3 coats on it. Just use a small drill bit or skewer to clear the hole for the key ring right after dipping. This is a key with a chip but not the master key. Probably a temporary fix(feels pretty secure so far) but it will work until I can get some new keys cut/cloned.

Wish I had before/after pictures but I didn't think of it at the time.
OP
Thu, 31 Jul 2014 06:35:16 +0000

Style Maven
'74 50s x3 '78 P200 E '84 Cosa '91 PK50XL2 - & - '58 AllState '68 Sprint '66(?) Super125 and '72 DanMotor Super150
Joined: Tue, 23 Nov 2010 02:37:37 +0000
Posts: 9422
Location: seattle/athens
 
Style Maven
'74 50s x3 '78 P200 E '84 Cosa '91 PK50XL2 - & - '58 AllState '68 Sprint '66(?) Super125 and '72 DanMotor Super150
Joined: Tue, 23 Nov 2010 02:37:37 +0000
Posts: 9422
Location: seattle/athens
Thu, 31 Jul 2014 06:35:16 +0000 quote
Getting that effing pin out to free your brake pedal
If you've ever had to fight this battle or if it's in your future, I know you'll appreciate this one. Now you can see what you can't see when you need to.
Ginch wrote:
I have two Super frames and they each have a slightly different angle on that pin. So I would try to work out which angle is going to be easiest to remove the pin from. From memory I think the pedal has to be pushed fully down to get access to the pin... have a look at the pedal itself to confirm.

Hope these pictures are of some help.





The angle on this one is about 10-15 degrees off that seam line, where the other one is more like 30ish.


On some bikes you may need to remove a piece of floor trim to push pedal down enuff get good access to that pin or at least pull the rubber strip out.
Thu, 31 Jul 2014 07:12:27 +0000

Addicted
Joined: Wed, 11 Jun 2014 18:44:38 +0000
Posts: 903

 
Addicted
Joined: Wed, 11 Jun 2014 18:44:38 +0000
Posts: 903

Thu, 31 Jul 2014 07:12:27 +0000 quote
Silicone spray lubricant, silicone oil, silicone grease, and dielectric grease all "rehydrate" old, dry rubber parts and o-rings. Works especially well on old, compacted o-rings or rubber gaskets that aren't sealing, it will cause them to swell. Also work great for water proofing electrical stuff, the spary lubricant and oil will penetrate down wire and insulation, while grease water proofs connectors and inside switches.
Thu, 31 Jul 2014 14:51:39 +0000

MV Santa
GTS250, 1975 VBC, 1980 P200E cutdown
Joined: Tue, 04 May 2010 16:25:07 +0000
Posts: 4700
Location: Sedgwick, Kansas
 
MV Santa
GTS250, 1975 VBC, 1980 P200E cutdown
Joined: Tue, 04 May 2010 16:25:07 +0000
Posts: 4700
Location: Sedgwick, Kansas
Thu, 31 Jul 2014 14:51:39 +0000 quote
Neurotic-Hapi-Snak wrote:
Silicone spray lubricant, silicone oil, silicone grease, and dielectric grease all "rehydrate" old, dry rubber parts and o-rings. Works especially well on old, compacted o-rings or rubber gaskets that aren't sealing, it will cause them to swell. Also work great for water proofing electrical stuff, the spary lubricant and oil will penetrate down wire and insulation, while grease water proofs connectors and inside switches.
Silicone spray has it's uses but as someone who occasionally paints vehicles I would ask you to please try to keep it off of your paint. It doesn't hurt the paint, as far as I can tell but it makes it impossible to paint over. Sanding it only spreads it. The only way I have found to remove it is sandblasting.
OP
Mon, 04 Aug 2014 01:59:34 +0000

Style Maven
'74 50s x3 '78 P200 E '84 Cosa '91 PK50XL2 - & - '58 AllState '68 Sprint '66(?) Super125 and '72 DanMotor Super150
Joined: Tue, 23 Nov 2010 02:37:37 +0000
Posts: 9422
Location: seattle/athens
 
Style Maven
'74 50s x3 '78 P200 E '84 Cosa '91 PK50XL2 - & - '58 AllState '68 Sprint '66(?) Super125 and '72 DanMotor Super150
Joined: Tue, 23 Nov 2010 02:37:37 +0000
Posts: 9422
Location: seattle/athens
Mon, 04 Aug 2014 01:59:34 +0000 quote
setting your timing
Thank you Vader, nicely explained. We definitely needed this!
Original discussion & some other options here: Timing trouble. How do I read this timimg wheel?
Vader19 wrote:
I know you already figured it out Astro, and nice post Jim.. but for any of you who are like me and can't read formulas and can only add, subtract and divide by 2:

What you'll need:
* Degree wheel
* Pointer (wire / coat hanger)
* Piston stopper
* Something to mark the cae and flywheel with (Sharpie / tiny paint brush / file etc.)


1 - Put the degree wheel on your crank / flywheel.

2 - Set up a pointer (piece of wire or coat hanger) on a flywheel cover screw.

3 - Put a piston stopper in the sparkplug hole.

4 - Roate the crank CLOCKWISE until the crown of the piston hits the stopper and it stops.

5 - Set the degree wheel to 0 (with the pointer) (Be careful not to move the degree wheel independantly of the flywheel when you're rotating the flywheel)

6 - Rotate the crank / flywheel COUNTER CLOCKWISE until it stops.

7 - Write this number down (we'll call this "number 1")

8 - Subtract "number 1"from 360 (the result will be "number 2")

9) Divide "number 2" by 2 (the result will be "number 3")

10 - Add "number 3" to "number 1" (the result will be "number 4")

11 - Remove the piston stopper.

12 - Continue to rotate the crank past where you stopped COUNTER CLOCKWISE until your degree wheel reads "number 4" at the pointer you've made out of a wire)

13 - Mark your flywheel and case here.. this is TDC..

Done!... It's that easy!



To get to say 18 degrees BTDC for example, rotate the flywheel COUNTER CLOCKWISE 18 degrees from your new TDC mark... Mark the flyweel.. this number will be to the RIGHT of your TDC mark on the flywheel.
and remember this
chandlerman wrote:
V oodoo wrote:
When you finally get to the checking w/ a timing lite part, be sure to wind the motor up some, don't set your timing at idle. I know this is especially important on CDI systems and I think probably good practice w/ points as well. If I'm wrong on the points, somebody please jump in & say so.
4,000 RPM's is the official speed to check timing, I believe. Stock engines redline at 6,000, average tuned engines at 7-8,000.
Tue, 26 Aug 2014 14:15:35 +0000

Molto Verboso
2005 PX150 In a Part-time Relationship with a 2-Stroke Vespa Since 2007
Joined: Sat, 01 Sep 2007 14:55:02 +0000
Posts: 1865

 
Molto Verboso
2005 PX150 In a Part-time Relationship with a 2-Stroke Vespa Since 2007
Joined: Sat, 01 Sep 2007 14:55:02 +0000
Posts: 1865

Tue, 26 Aug 2014 14:15:35 +0000 quote
Checking Clutch Seal with Leak Detector
Unfortunately, because the main seal on a P series is in between the main bearing and crankshaft, there is no way to inspect it without pulling the crank which spoils the bearing and guarantees the seal will get replaced anyways. And if by chance the seal is intact but leaking around the edges due a a worn or deformed bearing housing, it may not be obvious from visual inspection alone.

However, if you've put together a 2T crankcase leak detector, there is a way to test the seal without touching the crank as long as the engine is still closed up. Just hook up the leak tester, turn the engine on it's flywheel side as level as possible, and fill the main bearing race with gear oil. If you see bubbles, there's a problem. If none, all is well and there's no need to pull the crank and spoil the bearing and seal. Flip the engine over and let the excess oil drain from the bearing.
Tue, 09 Sep 2014 12:05:10 +0000

Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: Thu, 01 Dec 2011 00:47:42 +0000
Posts: 8427
Location: Victoria, Australia
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: Thu, 01 Dec 2011 00:47:42 +0000
Posts: 8427
Location: Victoria, Australia
Tue, 09 Sep 2014 12:05:10 +0000 quote
I found this video quite handy. I thought pinging and detonation were different.

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