Modern Vespa

This scooter came to America as a Viet-Bodge in an ill-advised eBay purchase in 2004. Since it needed almost constant repair, it sat in my garage until my spouse's ultimatum to "fix it or get rid of it." With her reluctant blessing I decided to convert it to an electric scooter.

I finished it in November and have been working out the kinks and collecting data on range and speed. It has about 250 electric miles on it thus far.

The spec's are: 3Kw electric hub motor, 52V 28.5 Ah battery. Range is about 28 - 30 miles depending on how hard you push it. Top speed is 54 Km/h (about 32 mph). It is very quiet, and has a ton of torque on acceleration.

Here are some photos:




Battery and electronics for the lights, horn, etc. are housed in the center fuel tank area

electronics for the drive system are under the left cowl.

The swing arm and hub motor configuration. These were build by a local fabricator named John Caruso from Angry Customs. He also did some work to shore up the frame.

I added front and rear turn signals, rear disc brake, and a big horn. The black box to the right is an ammeter for the battery(think of it as a fuel gauge).

view from the front. I've always loved the lines of the V series scooters. I know many consider this an abomination, but this scooter is fun to drive.

Nice job. What is the voltage you used for the motor?

Resistor - AWESOME! nice job.

Would love to see more pics of the build if you have any.
Have a similar project in progress - just starting out
Vintage vespa with sidecar (**Now In Technicolor ! **) (Page 2)

Would love your input based on what you learned. Am sure it would be super helpful.

Curious - did you use an electric scoot as a donor bike for parts?
Why 52v? and are your batteries in the soft brief case ?
Details man- details.


Thanks for posting - project looks great.

I must admit that I didn't know too much about what I was doing when I started the project. So I started looking at the performance specs of a scooter brand called UNU, who makes a Vespa-like scooter that they only sell in Europe. From there, I copied the battery size (Voltage, amp hours) and the motor size (Kw) and started shopping.

I ordered the motor controller, motor, and some components from Kelly Controls, a Chinese company. Then I ordered the battery from an electric bicycle company in California called Luna Cycle.

The motor is a 48V, 3Kw 10 inch hub motor. It is actually made by another Chinese company called QSMotor.

The battery is a lithium Ion 52v, and there are several articles about why a 48V and a 52V battery are roughly equivalent with the larger voltage version yielding slightly better performance. The nice part about buying from a electric bicycle company is that the batteries are sold in a triangle configuration to fit in the frame of a bike. I knew I wanted to fit it in the "triangle" of the gas tank compartment, so it was a match. I also wanted to be able to charge the battery off the bike, so it had to be removable.

The battery weighs about 12 lbs. and this project would have been almost impossible if you had to find a place for 4each 12V lead acid batteries, and the weight would have been way to high.

I'll upload some pictures of the build later this weekend. In the meantime, here is a photo of the battery:


the battery is about 13 inches long and about 9 inches high

I keep it in this soft bag for easy removal and protection.

Awesome - thanks! Similar path for me - steep learning curve.
Internet...

QS are generally held as the best Chinese hub motors - so intentionally or not - you got what is considered the gold standard.
Like the angle on the battery angle... makes sense - good thought - can definitely harvest some of that thinking for mine.
Had not read the 52/48V stuff - most of those bikes you refer to go with 72V - but the QS are rated to run with 52V no trouble.
Likewise - Kelly also have a good name.
Curious about a few ride-ability questions:
- Does your motor freewheel or do you have it set up to regenerative break?
- Does your throttle allow smooth linear acceleration - or does it feel like it is either kinda on or off?

Pics would great - very cool seat of your pants project with nice outcome - my favorite kind... thanks for posting.

I currently don't have my motor set for regenerative braking. That feature really helps with range, but in the early days of my testing I wasn't too sure how the battery"s BMS (battery management system) would respond to the voltage spike from regenerative braking when the battery was fully charged. Since then, I've become more comfortable and may reprogram my controller to allow for it. It will help squeeze a few more miles of range.

As to the acceleration, most controllers have a throttle response adjustment so you can get the "feel" you like. It's called TPS (throttle positioning system). You have this as a programmable parameter for most of the controllers, including the Kelly versions.

I use a Magura electric throttle (about $70ish) and my acceleration is pretty smooth. The torque of these motors is something to behold, and you'd better hang on.

Resistor - you've broken some new ground here. The build is impressive - the swing arm is great integration.

Mechanicals seem straight forward enough to understand. Custom arm Battery. Controller. Throttle. Motor. (sounds simpler than it is, I'm sure).

Wondering how you dealt with rest of electronics - like brakes and lighting - where do they get their power from? Did you have to rewire the whole bike to achieve? (noted you added signals too).

Simple wiring diagram? Hell - do it in excel...

Seriously - if you could lay out the major components and wiring - it would be an awesome road map for others.


Is this some form of converter for the std vespa electrical harness? Also - how did you run the blinkers at the back?

What is this orange thing? (looks like an ignition coil).

Answering your questions in no particular order, the power for lights, turn signals, and horn come from my 52V battery. The thing with the ridges/fins on the right is a step down converter (48V to 12V). The alternative is to carry a second battery to power your non-drive electrics, but that adds weight and a second recharge you would need to perform. These converters are cheap, but don't take up much room and do the job. Except for the headlights, there is not much power draw and I have gone all LED. I am currently working on an LED headlight that will reduce my power needs further.

Other components in that photo include a fuse block, and the round thing is a common ground block. Not too visible is a relay you need to make your turn signals blink, but it is tiny.

I rewired the scooter for all of this, mostly because I had the scooter apart anyway, and it was a bodge. I didn't want to mess with fixing the bodge wiring so I started over. BTW, when you drop the engine and gas tank, there is a ton of room for you to play with.

Lastly, in the 2nd photo, the orange thing is a contactor. It is a solenoid that serves 2 purposes. The first is that when you turn the key, a rush of power flows from the battery to the controller. This gigantic power surge can damage the controller, so I added this component (it is recommended by the manufacturer). It's second, and equally important function, is safety. In the event of a battery failure, it will shut down the power to the motor and controller.

As to the wiring diagram, give me a little time to figure out how to display it. It isn't a very difficult wiring pattern, but I'd be happy to document it for you.

Reistor - that's awesome.
Simple sketch of wiring diagram would be a killer - and not a bad set of crumbs for others to follow in future.
There are a bunch of online free diagram tools - no idea how complex or if any good at all - but might be simple drag and drop.

Had my tank out yesterday - there is significant space there to work with - agreed. Better understand your choice on the angled battery pack now.

Thanks for all - and yes please on any form of diagram including your planned upgrade - even if on a napkin...

Best,
CM

charlieman22,
I assumed you were inquiring about the wiring for the non-drive electrics. Here is my best effort on the wiring, and I will apologize in advance for my limited skills.

Since I was making a moist maker, I decided to use a motorcycle switch instead of the vintage VBB switch. I did that for fitment reasons, and because I wanted to add turn signals where the original didn't have them. I used a switch made by K&S (Part # 12-0055; about $45). This wiring diagram is based on that switch, but it can be easily adapted, as this is a common configuration.

I'm sure you'll have questions, and I hope I have depicted it in a way that will be usable to you. If not, let me answer your questions.

Lastly, if you need to see the drive electronics, they are available on the Kelly Controls website. My controller is the KLSH7245, and the wiring diagram is online. It's a bit daunting to look at, but you won't use all of the wiring for your project.

Here's my diagram:

vespawire.pdf
Description:		Download
Filename:	vespawire.pdf
Filesize:	60.52 KB

R - so helpful. Thank you for the heavy lifting/bushwhacking. Like the switch solution - nice touch for blinkers and choice of blinkers also understated - good solution.

Yes - this is exactly what I was looking for.

I will study in detail and fire back if clarification needed. First look = awesome road map!

Would love to hear an update.
Curious about experience and upgrades now that you have had a bit more time on the road.
- what kind of life are you getting outa the battery on your use?
- any further upgrades - i.e. led lights or other?
- what are you loving/ what would you do differently?

many thanks!
- CM

I missed this back in March Nice project!

Don't those extra cables interfere / bind when you turn the handlebars? I guess it was too tight to get them into the downtube?

Here's a quick update on my learnings/experience so far.

First, Voltage = speed and Amps = torque. My bike is powered by a 52V lithium battery and I top out at around 32mph using a full charge. When I built the bike, I thought this would be the performance so there's no disappointment there. I use the bike for short errands (gym, coffee shop, misc errands), so it performs as I intended. But I would like to make it faster to be more versatile and travel some faster roads from time to time. I think that means an upgrade to 72V to get about 45mph, so I may do that some time in the future. There is no shortage of torque and I can climb and accelerate without effort. I would just like to go a little faster.

Second, spend money on wire. I originally bought some 10 AWG CCA (Copper Clad Aluminum)--big mistake! Pay attention to the quality of wire and you'll get better performance with less energy lost on heat. I've since replaced with 8AWG copper with big lug connectors for a little more peace of mind.

Third, this machine is clean. No more fuel mixing, no oil on the garage floor, turn the key and go. That's a really nice feature.

Berto, the wiring looks this way because I needed some space for the SS hydraulic hose for the back brake, and the electric throttle has a larger diameter cable. Since this bike started life in the US as a Viet-bodge, it had a handlebar configuration to make it look like a late 50's bike. I replaced that headset with a VNB model that had to be modified to accept the wiring, throttle, and brake, but left the down tube holes to take all to the rear of the bike. There is no binding, and it is easy to steer. I would have preferred to hide it all, but there was too much to conceal.

Lastly, I did build a LED headlight to reduce the power draw. Since I have been a bit windy in this post, I'll post again with pics of that project.

Resistor - Thank you.

Our uses are similar - groceries getter. Have had my eye on 45-50mph - so was recently doing some research.
Found a few on Ali express 3k watt/ 72v/ triangular/ varying AH options.

Links are ridiculously long - but here they are if you want to just browse.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/72V-25AH-lithium-battery-72V-3000W-triangle-battery-24-5AH-with-free-bag-use-3-7V/32956535898.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.2.87e24814dkV0do&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_4_10065_10130_10068_10890_10547_319_10546_317_10548_10545_10696_453_10084_454_10083_10618_10307_537_536_10059_10884_10887_321_322_10103,searchweb201603_6,ppcSwitch_0&algo_expid=33754ebc-6625-4017-a8de-bc196bdb1bbd-0&algo_pvid=33754ebc-6625-4017-a8de-bc196bdb1bbd

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3000W-72V-Electric-Bicycle-Battery-72V-25Ah-Triangle-Li-Ion-20S7P-18650GA-Lithium-Battery-Pack-For/32836555862.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.84.87e24814dkV0do&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_4_10065_10130_10068_10890_10547_319_10546_317_10548_10545_10696_453_10084_454_10083_10618_10307_537_536_10059_10884_10887_321_322_10103,searchweb201603_6,ppcSwitch_0&algo_expid=33754ebc-6625-4017-a8de-bc196bdb1bbd-12&algo_pvid=33754ebc-6625-4017-a8de-bc196bdb1bbd

DHgate has a 20ah for a very good price as well. https://www.dhgate.com/product/ebike-battery-72v-20ah-triangle-lithium-battery/448615575.html?f=bm%7cGMC%7cpla%7c1471809117%7c59782623991%7c448615575%7cpla-294573402136%7c103006001%7cUS%7cliuzedong7777%7cc%7c2%7c&utm_source=pla&utm_medium=GMC&utm_campaign=liuzedong7777&utm_term=448615575&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI2uaj3cHx4QIVE8pkCh0Z5gZyEAQYASABEgLdfPD_BwE

Your guys at luna also have one - competitively priced - but little lower AH (17.5 I think).

As you probably know - normally - the cell manufacturer is the key to cost - with Samsung and Panasonic having very good reputations - but tending to be more costly.

My research is what sent me back to your post. Do you know what your battery AH was rated at? Would be interesting real life read on your range with that (and could extrapolate distance of other AH batteries from your experience).

* Noted on cabling.
Yes please on the LED conversion!

:-)

Thanks for all.

-CM

My battery is 52V, 28.5 Ah, with 50 amps continuous and bursts to 70 amps. I get between 28 and 30 miles in range, depending on how hard I ride the throttle. The battery math for capacity is:52V x 28.5 Ah = 1482 watts of power. An e-bike rule of thumb for watt hours per mile is 20ish, but with more weight and starts/stops I cannot get near that number.

A second piece of battery math is how many watts are are available to be used to drive the motor. My battery is 52V and my continuous/peak amps are 50/70. So 52V x 50amps = 2600 watts. Since my motor is 3000 watts, I normally under drive my motor, unless I burst which would send up to 3640 watts for a short period. You can over-volt these motors for a while, but can damage them if you do it too long.

If you want to go fast, you'll want a big motor and a high powered battery. If you want to go far, you'll need more Ah (Amp hours). As with the internal combustion world, there are trade-offs with speed and range.

I've been following your post on the Vespa sidecar project. You've been doing some impressive work! I hope this post isn't too elementary for you.

Just the opposite - insightful.
I have seen various calculation methods online - but all theoretical.
Actually had not seen the watts per mile calc (VxAH).
So that's great.

So if I use your math:
1482WH = 29(avg) miles, then you are using closer to 50 watts per mile (ish).
With my sidecar weight - this will likely be closer to 60 empty.
65/70 loaded up with dog, or beer, or dog and beer.

If I have that right - a 40AH, 72V, ~3000W battery would give me:
40x72=2880 watts of power.
@ 60 watts per mile - i'd get about 48 miles - which would be great.
The 20AH version would be about half that - which would be ok - but a little less than desired.

This assumes I stick with a 3000W motor - rather then 4000W version. Not clear how the 4000W would effect this calc in real terms.

Lemme know if I screwed that up.
Wouldn't be the first time finance had to come in and correct my projections.

Thanks again for insights!
Cumulative effect very helpful.

Just make sure to keep Ah (amp hours) and continuous amps straight. From you battery links, it looks like those batteries are between 20Ah and 25Ah. So that means you can go 72V x 25Ah = 1800 amps/60 amps per mile, or about 30 miles. Also, we haven't talked about it in a while, but regen braking adds some range(and helps you stop quicker).

For speed, you use the continuous amps, which appear to be around 40 in these configurations. That would be 72V x 40 = 2880 amps too drive your 3000w motor. The speedy bikes have a continuous amp availability of around 70 to 100 amps and typically use a 4K or 5K motor.

Someday, I'll dive in an build my own battery. Many videos on the topic, but the distillation of my research is that scale matters here. Build one battery and it will cost as much as buying from a reputable builder; build more batteries and it is considerably cheaper. Then you can tailor your range and speed potential only limited by physics.

Good stuff.
Will incorperate the continuous amp comments into my battery research. Cool - had not gotten that deep.
If you get that far - make sure to include me on your second build - to help you with scale of course.

:-)

Great - second cup of coffee and some battery research on my Sunday am.
Tks!

My word that when I take the plunge on battery construction you can join me in scale benefits.

Have you seen this electric conversion? The company specializes in vintage scooters. https://www.retrospectivescooters.com/for-sale/project-e-electric-vespa-conversion

Rowdyc, I had not seen this company prior to your post. It looks very interesting conceptually, and I'm impressed with their stated performance, which is better than my experience thus far.

When I began to consider the electric option, I was interested in a European scooter from a company called UNU https://unumotors.com/en. I inquired about importing one of their models, but they are unavailable in the US. So I copied the specs of their top model and went shopping for some components that matched. My original concept was to learn something new, and to build a "grocery getter" that was modest in speed matched what was available from other commercial options. Of course, shortly after completion, I wanted to go faster, a real character flaw I have.

So, I have learned that Voltage = speed, and Amp hours (Ah) = range. My battery is 52V and my top speed is around 32mph. I'm surprised that these guys can get 55mph out of a 66V battery. I'd like to explore how they get that much speed out of this configuration.

The holy grail of all EV's is range, and they look like they solve this with extra batteries. From their website, I'm sure you will note that the lithium technology is still a little expensive. It is dropping quickly, but batteries are the most expensive component of any EV.

I have heard that many European cities are about to ban 2 strokes, and that will sideline many of these vintage machines. Going electric solves the emissions issues, but there are many other benefits of these electrics. They are simple, trouble free, and fun to ride. This option looks a little expensive, but I would expect more conversions as people become more comfortable with the technology and the price becomes more reasonable.

Rowdy - good find.
Not sure I had seen that one - ironic 'cause I thought I had won the internet searching elec. vespa conversions...

They look to do a nice job on fit and finish.
I agree - speed vs voltage is kinda surprisingly high - maybe a little skeptical even - but with that said, I don't have any direct experience beyond what Resistor shared.

I am forever torn about the elec conversion. It makes so much sense for a side car - I gotta try it at some point. The damn 2 stroke with gears is just so much fun as well (tho if I didn't like working on it - and just wanted it to go when I said so - elec would be the #1 option).

I have to be in these guys neighborhood in a few weeks. Maybe I will mosey up there and knock on their door. If so, I will post about it after I check them out.
Intrigued about the fit/finish/speed they are achieving.

Thanks.

I like it a lot, very inspiring

Higher voltage can turn the motor faster but the hearing will play a big part. Also they could be using a inverter to make A/C power in a variable frequency drive.

I hope that if charlieman22 can get a few minutes of Q&A with these guys, the mystery will be revealed on how a 66V battery can get you 55mph. But here are some data points to ponder on commercially offered products:

1). A Zero motorcycle (not all are the same, of course) uses a 102V battery and has a top speed of 70 mph with that configuration. The do offer some faster models, but they have even bigger batteries
2). BMW C-revolution uses a 133V battery and gets 80mph.
3). Lastly, and nearest to our hearts here on MV, the Vespa Elettrica uses a 48V battery and tops out at 32mph.

All of these products are likely speed limited to a certain extent to get more range, as that is an important factor in today's EV's. After all, it is not as easy as stopping by the gas station, charge times aren't yet very fast, and making sure you complete your journey takes a little more planning.

But my take away from these other commercial offerings is that Voltage is still the driver for higher speeds. I am hopeful that Retrospective Scooters has found a way to make their configuration more efficient, and therefore faster. If so, I'd like to borrow a concept, and go faster myself. 8)

This is a great project!

In London now.
Took a shot at dropping in yesterday.
Key guys for electrical is out until next week which limited it a bit.
Will try to stop by again.

Did have a look at a couple of samples they have on the lot.
Looks like solid work.
Curious about range and speed with VBB.
Would be fun to get a test drive in - and see if they sell components as well as full kits.
Swing arm construction looked solid.
More to come.
- CM

Late to the party. I've been fixing a Chinese electric for my g'daughter and secretly scheming how to interest her in a much faster and farther going real scooter so I can salvage the motor & controller from this for a smallframe project. I will go to extremes to shave weight but do want it to look stockish, not cutdown.



The four SLA batteries = 52lb would be replaced by five lithium = 12lb. I once read on some Ebike forum that this controller will handle 60V if the capacitors are upgraded. 48V is just too slow although this bike already goes a bit faster than the 32MPH mentioned for the Vespa. Same forum told me how to remove the speed limiter jumper . But I'd like 40ish and better performance on steeper hills, I keep wanting to downshift this thing.

BTW, have you seen this? https://www.magnax.com/technology ?

I look forward to your project. It's a little lonely on the electric side of the house, so you're not late to the party, you're just stuck at the nerd table with me while the cool kids party on!

One of the biggest problems facing us vintage conversion guys is that space is a factor in the vintage frame; the old "10 pounds in a 5 pound bag" problem. Lithium batteries are significantly smaller and lighter than SLA batteries, but finding a spot for more powerful batteries is not easy in a vintage frame. The scooter in your pic has a ton of luxurious space you won't have on a small frame.

What I've learned so for is that big batteries driving high KW motors equals speed. It's hard to lighten a Vespa frame significantly because of it's steel construction. You'll get some speed out of making it as light as possible, but you'll get the most as you increase the voltage.

As a resource, I have learned a lot from this site:https://endless-sphere.com/forums/, and I can help you on your journey. I'm not an engineer, but I can tell you what worked for me and propose some solutions if you get stuck (If you're an engineer, please identify as I have questions ).

I had not seen the magnex technology motor. It looks interesting and I wonder how long before us hobbyists can get it.

Lastly, you will never get used to not shifting. it is a tactile pleasure that modern Vespas and electrics sacrifice. These days, it's hard to buy a manual transmission in an automobile, so I'm afraid shifting is a lost art. That said, electrics are fun in their own way. I get lots of stares when I ride a vintage Vespa that is super quiet, and you will too.

Voodoo - I enjoyed ur traitor post. The beauty of a vintage scoot with the whisper of the zippy electric is a natural combo.
Wondered if you might be pondering.

I rode a smallie with a 3k watt motor and ~65 volts last month. They r fun.

If ur GD won't release her scoot for parts, look on AliExpress. QS motors are reputed to be some of the best. Kelly controllers also have a good rep.

If you look around, there are even boxes that allow u to attach a throttle cable end to - when u turn ur throttle, it will pull the cable on the box and the box converts this to a signal to the controller. This way ur handlebar stays stock.

Resistor has lead the way on conversion and has some good learning he's shared above!

Sounds to me like someone needs a little electric small frame...
🙂

-CM.

Resistor you are my new idol!
I happened to just pick up a bodge to create an art piece, now....

My initial questions are:
Because it was a bodge, was it titled already or did it's status change when you converted it?

What was your cost to convert? Have you kept a running tab?
The swing arm is well thought out, did you or your fabricator keep the drawing/specs ?

Great job!
My head is ramping up to join ya!

Haole, I apologize for the late reply. I didn't see your post until just now.

In reply to your questions, my bodge was/is not titled. it was a Vietnam purchase made by my son when neither of us were very knowledgeable about bodges. It is registered in Vermont (see posts about Vermont registrations) while it was still a VBB. I have chosen to leave it registered in Vermont for simplicity. Vermont doesn't provide a title for scooters under 300cc.

I started keeping a running tab on the conversion costs until it became too obvious that I had lied to my wife about how much this project would cost. But here are the big items: controller $360 (36-72V Kelly controller), motor $318 + $115 for shipping (48V, 3000W hub motor from QS motor), battery $899 (52V 28.5 Ah from luna cycle), and swing arm (expensive). I'm not exactly clear how much my fabricator charged me for making the swing arm versus how much to make the frame safe for riding, but I feel like I could claim him on my income tax as a dependent.

Despite all I've mentioned above, you can do it for less than I spent. I didn't know what I was doing, so I substituted money for knowledge. If you can weld, or know a guy with a garage set up, you could construct a swing arm for less. Battery prices are dropping rapidly, and I spent more than I should have on batteries because I didn't know enough about lithium technology, and I had a genuine concern about bursting into flames. Some of the Chinese batteries (hell, they're all chinese batteries these days) need a careful look, but quality is improving and costs are dropping.

Long story short, it's not too cheap to do an electric conversion. But electrics are fun to ride, require less maintenance, and never leak oil in the garage. I own a modern Vespa (S150), but I ride my electric the most, and it almost always draws attention when I do.

I hope you'll join me in the vintage electric universe. Let me know how I can help.

Thanks for the info Resistor!
I just happened to pick up a bodge for a $100 last Saturday to create an art piece and then I saw your post and thread and my plan may have changed!
I've got to go through the frame first (media blast) to see if it's true condition.

Time to take a six pack next door to chat with my welder buddy.....

Hiding in project reports??? Only just found this. Very nice work - love the ingenuity and final result.

Question(s): are those motogadget bar ends (the M blaze disc or probably called the Mo-Blaze now)? And have you mounted them static? Guessing no gears so the left is easy, but throttle side?

These bar end signals I used are cheap ones I bought on Amazon. Motogadget makes high quality parts, and these are definitely not that. But they work, and are easy to wire. Where they fall down a little is in their daytime visibility. At night they are easy to see, but daytime is only slightly better than using your hands. But electrically, they have been problem free.

As for the mechanics of it, I use an electric throttle(Magura), and it slides over your handlebars. So the signals are in the bar itself and don't turn with the throttle. Therefore, I don't have the twist you encounter on a vintage throttle. My thought is that the signals are up to the task, since the throttle probably turns less than 1/2 a turn and you have plenty of wire. Just make a good connection inside your bars and you should be good.

In summary, I'd probably spring for the Motogadget signals if I did it again. Mine are fine, but quality costs money, and I think their stuff is excellent.

I'm traveling at the moment so I'm writing this on my phone and hope it makes sense. Good luck!

It does. I did go for Motogadget... and spent a lot of time figuring how to stop bar ends rotating on both sides! Which is why I was interested - I figured there was a throttle-over-tube solution on yours, but worth checking.


Think I can safely say your wiring is prettier than mine!

OK, this is getting very tempting now.

https://www.sip-scootershop.com/main/base/Results.aspx?t=Umr%C3%BCstkit%20Elektroantrieb&d=(sco%2Cape%2Clam%2Cold%2Cpx%2Csma%2Cmax%2Catv%2Cmot)&a=1&sort=0&_language=EN&fbclid=IwAR02ikN_HE6zNUPK3-NCdk0vTbOl4KWFgaugoxnwVo_jn5bcqPxXQ_yy_dY

That kit looks pretty interesting. And I like the fact that it is a mostly turn-key conversion, which simplifies things a lot!

Specifically, the swing arm is probably the most difficult and critical part of the conversion and their solution is very ingenious. The dual shock mount is a nice touch also, but the shock placement is probably the reason they sprung for a drum brake instead of a disc. At their max speed, a drum is probably sufficient, but a hub motor is really a big magnet, and at higher speeds you'd probably like the additional stopping power of a disc.

Highlights (for me) are the 60v battery and swing arm design. Low lights are the 1000W motor--you'll need a bigger motor if you don't want to over volt and run hotter. Also the 20Ah battery wouldn't afford a lot of range, but being able to remove the battery for charging would allow for commuter usage. All the rest of the kit looks pretty comprehensive to me.

Finally, the problem with this conversion, and frankly my original build, is the max speed. 55kph isn't going to cut it most of the time. I believe it is the reason for the big yawn over the modern Vespa Elettrica, and the reason there aren't more electric scooters in the US. It's probably fine for an inner city commute, but here in Dallas, if you can't go 45mph in a 30mph zone, you're going to get run over!

I have taken apart my scooter and rebuilt it with a 72V battery, 4000W motor, and a host of changes that allow me to "enjoy the go". I've had it to 45mph, but haven't pushed the top end yet. I'm still in data collection mode and when I know more about the capabilities, I'll post again. This electric thing is coming, and someday will be more prevalent. But for now, it's a bit lonely for the electric guys.

Hah it's actually a thing. Cool.