body stripped and ready getting ready for paint.
gs 150 vs4
It's very difficult to get this thing started. I can barely post this much. This is my fifth attempt so I will say as little as possible rather than explain anything so I don't have to write it over again:
Consider this a poor man's restoration at this point...
one of two engine stands I made.
petcock wrench made from Delta shaper tool.
front fork cleaning
nut size is 1/4 " SAE
cheap tank rust removal tool.
It gets in the corners surprisingly well
cleaned up wheel house
Last edited by nickton on Sun Mar 08, 2020 11:00 pm; edited 3 times in total
before pictures: diamond in the rough.
Here are some shots I wasn't able to upload earlier:
before picture of engine
tail light area damage
another look at engine
burning off paint and bondo.
Last edited by nickton on Sun Mar 01, 2020 2:22 am; edited 2 times in total
strange gs150 setup, or "how to abuse a vintage scooter
I can't find any information on why someone decided to use a 1990 Mercedes coil on this motor. The previous owner claimed he payed a mechanic $1800 to rebuild the motor, and that he hired a local Mexican guy to paint it. I discovered white spray on top of a coating of grease and dirt on the underside, as well as areas with thick cracking bondo, so I obviously had to strip everything. I hope the engine was rebuilt correctly, especially for that amount of dough. I will obviously find that out when I eventually try to start it, but for now I'll leave it alone.
Mercedes coil attached to engine.
painted over dirt in wheel well.
nice little pile of scraped of paint, oil, and dirt.
Last edited by nickton on Thu Mar 12, 2020 5:41 pm; edited 8 times in total
gs 150 abuse
My guess is the Mercedes coil was a crude attempt at doing a 12v conversion of some kind. I hope it was good they didn't find a battery to put in it too. I can only imagine what damage it already did to the rectifier or stator assembly components. I also found several parts attached with pointed tip sheet metal and wood screws. The original Dellorto carb was in sorry shape, but I think I can make it work with some TLC.
I wonder what I should do with that air filter setup. It doesn't look correct to me.
Dellorto carb with abused bolt head.
sloppy petcock assembly.
primitive air filter setup
sheetmetal screw on the carb.
progress on restoration
I am getting closer to paint day. Awaiting shipment of 2k primer from
hubs finally scrubbed to the metal.
under side much better prepped than before.
cleaned and painted motor on improvised stand.
hubs before being stripped
Last edited by nickton on Sun Mar 08, 2020 10:48 pm; edited 4 times in total
Joined: 07 Nov 2012
Finally got my Speedokote 2k primer, fast reducer, icing glaze filler, and wet/dry sandpaper. Spent this Sunday spreading and sanding the filler by hand. It's a lot of work. I can't afford any discs now for my random orbit sander so it's all by hand first with 320 grit sandpaper. I pretty much have to do it that way from now on anyhow, after making some welding repairs to the battery tray and a couple of underside ribs and having to grind down spot welds. Nothing is really flat so I have to sand by hand with a home made cork block. It's looking pretty smooth now by I know there's still a long way to go. It's all in the prep.
Here are some other pictures from a while ago:
repairing flywheel shroud.
All parts go into a trunk my neighbor tossed out.
Last edited by nickton on Sun Mar 08, 2020 10:52 pm; edited 1 time in total
gs 150 resto
I also sprayed Permatex rust treatment inside the tank and on light oxidation still on other body parts. The leg shield required some careful re-bending and mallet work from previous crash damage. Overall however the frame was in amazingly sound condition considering it's age, and had only minimal surface rust.
Bent leg shield edge
another view of bent area
removing logo after burning off paint.
Finally got around to priming the bike, taking advantage of the 70 degrees (farenheit) weather today. It is set to get cold and possibly rainy again by Sunday, so I jumped on it today, setting up in a corner of the back yard next to the wood fence, where an old clothes hanger post of some sort helped hang parts for spraying. I used an el cheap sprayer I have and it worked just fine. I plan to wet sand again before base coat anyway and just wanted to seal everything well before it gets wet again.
Speedokote 2k epoxy primer and Upol icing body filler glaze.
filed and getting sanded
simple sanding block made of cork.
improvised gun holder nailed to the fence
compressor with sprayed body parts
Pro X One spray gun with 1.7 mm tip.
Joined: 03 Jul 2019
Location: lewisville , nc. 27023
I looked over the primer and came across a few areas that needed more going over--slight bumps and waviness, but not too bad. I expected it. Sometimes a coat of primer helps reveal finer details that need attention. I will have to invest in a bit more unfortunately, but it's worth it. I'd like to get some 1k urethane or acrylic high build stuff this time. Perhaps a can of the "Max" brand I see on eBay. I also found a German supplier of original Grigio Azura base coat, but I'm having difficulty getting them to ship to USA. They are called the "Spraydosen shop". I wonder if anyone has any other affordable suggestions for original Max Meyer paint colors.
GL, PK, PE200 with hack, Sears Rust Badge
Joined: 24 Apr 2012
Location: Deep in the heart of Texas
Re: paint progress
I also found a German supplier of original Grigio Azura base coat, but I'm having difficulty getting them to ship to USA. They are called the "Spraydosen shop". I wonder if anyone has any other affordable suggestions for original Max Meyer paint colors.
Glasurit Paint stores that can mix paint should have the original Max Meyer or PPG vespa paint for you. It is non lead but the paint from Germany may have lead and maybe the reason it can not be shipped to the USA.
more sanding and priming
Here's an update on the painting:
I hope everyone's Covid-19 free by the way. We've been sheltering in place and eking by with limited funds, and I've been busy in my backyard shop. I purchased a used Satajet spray gun on eBay, to use for base and clear. I figured it would be a good investment if I wanted a quality finish, and I've watched a few Eastwood and House of Color instructional videos on vehicle painting, which have put the fear of orange peel, tiger stripe, and fisheye into me.
Yesterday I finally applied a second coat of primer after it arrived in the mail. I used more glazing body fill after tapping out a few more areas needing attention. I also used seam sealer on some areas, though I now realize it wasn't necessary. It seemed like an interesting product when I saw it on line and decided to give it a try. I now would like to get some high build polyurethane primer but am debating whether I really need it. I found the original base coat color at Maske's in the Netherlands, and ordered the recommended 3 cans for about $150--which I don't yet have, but that's okay since I need to do more prep still.
There will be more rain this weekend, so I'm glad I coated those bare metal spots.
Here's a few photos:
more primer, wrong color but that's okay.
It was literally rough around the edges. Maybe this is overkill. Lots of hand sanding required.
beige primer applied. Not quite enough in the can.
cowls look better.
leg shield is getting there.
GS160, SS180, GS150(3), SS90(rep), bluebadge smallli, bluebadge sprint, lambretta LD MK1, LD MK3, NYPD LI150, VNA, V9A, P200(3), Stella, couple more
Joined: 27 May 2016
Well it's been a while since the last post and I am back from the dead. I had a second hip replacement surgery in June and took the summer to recouperate, leaving the Vespa project alone. I finally jumped on a paint deal I saw on Craigslist and maxed out my credit on a 2 gallons of Pure White single stage 2 part Urethane with activator, almost a gallon of urethane primer, and two cans of reducer for $100. Not a bad deal at all.
Okay so the paint was a bit old, but it worked, and I got creative with tinting colors instead of waiting until I could afford original color paint from Europe.
I completely primed everything again and sanded it smooth. It is recommended to use Urethane after epoxy anyway, as it is actually stronger, but epoxy's better for rust prevention.
I discovered the single stage paint is a base coat mixed with clear coat. Then I noticed that since this paint had been stting for a while, it's white pigment had separated from the clear, and was sitting on the bottom. All I had to do then was pour the clear into a clean container and I could use this as a final gloss coat.
Finally I need it to be more silvery, like the original, and for this I tried an experiment that gave me a unique finish. It so happened I had aquired a lot Xray film from a veterinary lab for free on Craigslist, and was recovering pure silver from it. I had a pile of freshly rinsed and dried silver powder (which is actually more black than silver, due to exposure to light), that I intended to melt into silver shot. I figured that since clear is recomended as a carrier for metal flake, why not try pure silver powder instead, for a more silvery finish?
Here are some pictures:
clear needs to be sanded down with 1000 to 2000 grit.
silver impregnated clear toned down the base colors nicely.
Oh yes. I also made my own seat cover one night, after being tired of looking at options I had no money for. I used all recycled materials and entered the idea on the instructables website. It didn't come out perfect but it will work until I can afford the real thing.
tripled stitched seams are very strong.
recycled leather from an abandodned couch.
Joined: 07 Nov 2012
I spent the summer practicing pin striping, and will try it on the Vespa.
One thing I can't afford is new leg shield trim, so I re installed the dented and screw hole pocked originals. This was a bit of a disaster because I chipped some of the new paint. I managed to get them attached securely at least--without the need of screws (of course)--by using slip joint pliers. I will paint them after filling holes with seam filler (it was all I had left). I had planned to make my own set of special pliers by welding a section of cut in half pipe onto vice grips, but this seemed unnecessary since the trim was already so beat up.
Battery compartment door embellishments.
leg shield trim
beginnings of pinstriping on front fender.
I had to repair the horn button, which was a delicate job. I am also cleaning and polishing all parts, including the carb. This has been a serious amount of work.
restoring the horn switch.
I had to paint wires yellow and pink since I didn't have those colors.
original horn's in great shape. Had to paint a wire pink too.
used trimmed down computer bumpers here.
button installed. Feels solid. Hope it works.
Last edited by nickton on Thu Oct 15, 2020 10:54 pm; edited 1 time in total
I am also installing a bridge rectifier, but when looking at the VS4 wiring diagram, I can't tell if the foot brake's blue wire goes to positive on the rectifier. Also the headlight wiring connection points are confusing.
RECTIFIER WITH FUSE
BATTERY 6V - 12AH
CLAMP BOARD ON THE FRAME
6V - 3W BULB FOR TAIL LIGHT
6V - 10W BULB FOR STOP LIGHT
STOP LIGHT SWITCH
HORN DC 6V
SPEEDO BULB 6V -1.5W.
INSIDE VIEW OF HEADLAMP
LC N AB AN
s c o o te r h e l p . c o m
VESPA GS 150(VS4T)
AHA. I just figured out the answer to my question, by checking out a diagram for version 3 (also from scooterhelp), which shows where the rectifier fuse is. So the blue brake wire goes to the other side of the fuse, together with the green, which connects to key terminal #4.
Also AN and AB are head lamp connections. I wasn't sure until I checked that vs 3 diagram and compared it.
One certainly can not use wiring diagrams from different versions. Maybe that is an error people make. I almost made it myself when the first diagram I found was for vs5.
Last edited by nickton on Sat Nov 14, 2020 9:48 pm; edited 1 time in total
I feel like I completed a rite of passage for GS 150's when I finally removed the flywheel using the circlip method. To keep it from popping out I inserted a very small nut in the gap between circlip holes, and slowly removed the bolt by tapping my socket wrench with a deadblow hammer as I held the magnet wheel by hand. It eventually came loose to my great relief, and I noticed what needed attention: splitting cover on grounding wire and completely pulverized woodruff key. There was also a cracked off stator mounting screw slot, which I decided did not need fixing since the stator was held in tight as it was.
Incidentally I have no clue yet about how to re install that woodruf key without having it fall out.
I broke the fiber plate while removing a bad ground wire.
Rectifier set up
I set up the bridge rectifier, routed wires, shrink wrapped as neatly as I could, and made a cover from a Peet's coffee tea tin. It should work, with a 10 amp fuse between battery positive and green and blue wires. I'm waiting for a 16 AH battery to come in the mail. Unfortunately I can't afford an original type Ht coil yet, and may try out an old 6 v universal one. I will use a vintage BMW terminal block too.
I am also wondering whether I really even needed to use those post connectors for the two blacks from the stator. I wanted to simply connect them straight to the rectifier.
no ground connect yet. I later redid this, soldering connections and adding shrink wrap. The old g and r markings are obviously no longer accurate. I wish I had some ring connectors instead, but it'll have to do for now.
needs another coat of paint I think.
the grommet up top is going away.
front fork assembly
I was very busy this week, and managed to assemble and install the front fork, after running all cables. Then I did the headset. Quite a job. My wife held in the top bearings as I lifted the fork into place. A bit of a struggle but I got her done. Everything looks good so far.
Well she's looking better and better. All I need now is a woodruff key for the flywheel, a few pieces from the speedo king, an ht coil, a side cowl rubber, rear brake switch, a fuel filter, a crest, an emblem, proper kickstand boots, some lightbulbs, and a set of floorboard trim pieces. I can almost hear her kicking to life now. Of course i will have to learn how to set the timing and adjust the carburetor before I ride off into the sunset though.
devils in the details
After reading many forum threads I'm beginning to feel a bit embarassed about my lack of knowledge when it comes to engine mods etc. I am still a newbie here and feel at times over my head with this project. I hope I haven't done anything too stupid so far, but it does seem learnable, due to the relative simplicity of this design.
I finally got a new woodruff key in after dropping it in the dirt a few frustrating times. I actually used a drop of super glue to hold it in finally. I'm sure it will break free anyway when all tightened up.
I also got a crest from Germany, and had to fiddle some more with front brake cable routing, and installed a new throttle cable.
I'm a little worried about the tightness of the two gear shift cables, which seem too close to the exhaust.
I aslo decided to save my pennies for a proper ignition coil, and new speedo cable.
The flywheel cover didn't clear the fan so I had to bang it out a bit and destroyed the paint job, so I painted it black and put a face on it too just for fun.
I guess it's a unique look.
The wrong brake switch I think.
Last edited by nickton on Sat Nov 28, 2020 2:33 pm; edited 1 time in total
not so fast there cowboy.
AYYE ya ya. Problems problems. First of all: No money at all. $600+ in debt to paypal who will need payments, so no more Vespa spending for quite a while until I pay it off. I am also currently looking for some kind of job. I am a journeyman carpenter but hip replacement surgery makes a successful return to that position doubtful IMHO. Looking for seasonal work perhaps...
Enough of my personal financial problems.
I got the smaller brake switch and it still seems wrong to me but maybe it will work. I don't know how it should be adjusted.
But the real problem now I just discovered is my front end. The fork now appears loose, and has some play down by the horn section. Perhaps because I initially installed the horn upside down? Don't know and haven't really looked closely at it yet, but I think I will have to remove the front fork again, much to my dismay (to put it mildly).
As a consequence of this new development I will have to build some kind of ramp to get the scooter to a raised height which will facilitate easier fork insertion after having removed it. The bike is now much heavier too of course, since I installed the motor. Wish I had a well endowed shop with a scooter lift.
BTW my birthday is tomorrow, my brother is fighting cancer, and I will be one year removed from 60 years young.
Last edited by nickton on Tue Feb 02, 2021 10:46 am; edited 1 time in total
Turns out it wasn't such a big deal. I simply loosened the head bolt and used a long punch to tighten the slotted nut, all without having to un hook anything. That made my day.
Here's a few progress pictures again:
duct tape and boots from crutches work for now on the center stand feet.
I did a farmer bodge by whittling down an old sledge hammer guard for a kickstart rubber. Perfect fit.
Joined: 06 Nov 2020
Joined: 01 May 2013
Location: Lafayette, IN
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