I temporarily "disabled" the hydraulic part of the tiltlock system, only keeping the cable-operated brake segment.
So far, I realy like the way it works now!
It's just like the recent Yamaha trikes. At first it feels scary rolling the scooter around with the front locked but the shocks still working, but you'll soon find that it won't drop easily. To me, it even feels more predictable on uneven terrain.
If I can't find a convincing reason to revert this modification, I'll make this change permanent. So instead of draining the system to fix the piston seal, I will just drain the system, and leave it at that. A drained system will not develop leaks, and it wil put less strain on the tilt lock motor, keeping that part alive for a few more years - and it will be less work when I have to replace the steering head bearings, knowing this time will come sooner or later .
A while ago I already disconnected the wire going from the tilt lock warning relay to the horn, which means the horn is still working, but it doesn't sound when the system loses pressure.
I tested switching on the ignition and starting the engine with the pressure sensor disconnected, to simulate the loss of pressure that will happen when I drain the hydraulic system later on - no problems here as far as I could tell (I don't check for, nor care about ODB2 error codes)..
How this works:
Remove these from the front shock brackets by taking out the front fender bolts..
Reinstall the bushings, otherwise you'll crush the brackets with the fender bolts..
This is how it still stands on its own without hydraulics.. Yes, jou can make it lean a bit because of the unlocked shocks, but it won't drop!
Deliberately locked at an angle, to demonstrate the remaining stability without hydraulics. Repeat: without hydraulics and deliberately locked way off centre!