Modern Vespa

That is Chris trying to identify what the chassis number actually is. What do y'all think?

Nice work. You guys rocked that mod.

VIN is probably 49759 which would put it correctly in 1963. Should be a stamped star between the prefix and serial. Maybe use a wire brush to clean the surface rust...

These are the serials produced from 1962 to 1965

VLA1T 1962 1001 - 5958
VLA1T 1963 5959 - 57103
VLA1T 1964 57104 - 78009
VLA1T 1965 78010 - 80855

+1 on 49759

Thanks for help on the numbers guys it's been a real head scratcher for me.

try doing a rubbing with paper and pencil I've had the DMV do this.

That "3" is an 8.

A Piaggio 3 would have a sharp upper-right corner, like your 7.

VLA1T24849759

Good info on the chassis number guys! Thank you!

So I've been checking out the wiring. It is definitely original for a VLA1T w/battery. Thank you scooterhelp.

So the way I see it, I've got three option. Whatever option I go with it'll need a handlebar switch, brake switch, and a regulator. Also, the stator is a 7 wire P200e stator.

1) Use original harness and modify for stator
2) Buy a new harness for non battery and modify for p200 stator
3) build my own

And then there is going full 12VDC and headlight config. It's original headlight case so it'd be great to stick a bulb in it and have.it "work" whether it's 12AC or DC. I have experience with hooking up a 12VAC Vape system.

For example, The 62 Allstate had both brake and handlebar switches 6v system. The VAPE 12VAC system worked great hooked up to the loom and I bought 12v bulbs from AutoZone that are still working 2 years later.

So my question to you all is: what would you do, and how would you do it?

Any input would be appreciated Thank you

After staring at the wiring diagram for a day I've decided to use the original wiring and leave the system AC.

I called "The Market" and talked with Matt, and he steered me in the right direction for the brake switch, headset switch, and 12VAC regulator. With that on its way, I decided to start it up and check the stator output.

13.1VAC between the red and yellow wires. It's a single yellow stator. So while I wait for the switches to arrive, I'll study the wiring diagram some more and figure out how and where to hook it all up.

And in the meantime I'll take apart the headset and clean & grease everything. Then the front hub. Then the fork.

Here is a picture of the cap. I might make a bigger vent hole, just to be on the safe side.

A quick note of kudos. Again... great mod... The oil tank fix has a fair amount of genius in the simplicity. Really really cool fix.

*tips hat*

You'll be fine. That vent hole on yours looks to be twice the size of mine

Thanks BirdsNest! I think it's going to work out well!

And that's good to know FM. Thank you!

Today I don't have much time, but did get the rusty bits in to soak in a bin of E.vaporust. also took some 0000 steel wool to the inside of the headset.

Not to scare you… but it appears the shifter tube has a pretty significant tumor.

;-

Ha! That's pretty funny - it's got a TUMURR

What a crack up!

I managed to pull the parts out of the Evaporust, rinse with water, then scrub down with steel wool and a wire brush, and WD-40, Then rinse with WD-40 and wipe down.

The headset is now ready to be reassembled with grease...

Great work guys! This GL is gonB GoodLookin. Keep it up

I ran into this problem trying to lift a key code off the lock cylinder for my bus. I took a photo with my iPhone, enlarged it and played with the filters, contrast, etc until I could see it clearly. Actually, I do this with stuff other people can see. You could also take a photo of the backside and reverse the photo.

Here's some minutiae I just noticed ...

Does your GL have a dot or a line on the shifter tube between 1 and 2? What about the headset - line or pointer?

The guy in charge of stamping probably just grabbed whatever was nearby.

What do others have?

Dot and line...

I downloaded the parts manual to see what parts we're missing in the headset. A number of parts, it turns out.

I did manage to put the shifter tube back together, and after 10 minutes of wrestling, got the aluminum cover off the fork. It was crusted on and probably hasn't been off in 48 years...

I'm going to pull the hub apart before placing another order...

Today was productive, and destructive....

I pulled the front hub apart, and it was a rusty, crusty mess, and removed the whole front steering column.

The shock bolt was frozen in the hub casting and the shock tube. I used penetrating oil, cleaner, and heat. I started by tapping, then escalated to pounding and still nothing. I put a wrench on the bolt and FINALLY got some moment, and the two prominent points on the shock tube promptly broke the casting of the swing arm. F$&k! Out came the pipe wrench.

Between the pipe wrench holding the shock tube, and the wrench turning the bolt, I managed to get the shock tube out, and pounded the bolt out of the swingarm.

So now I don't know if I can use this swingarm. I'm bummed ...

Ouch. Had the same problem, shock bolt was fused to the swing arm and wouldn't budge. For future reference, took it to a machine shop and the guy told me the trick is to heat the bolt until it's cherry red hot, then tap or press it out.

Add to shopping list.

https://www.scooterwest.com/front-fork-swing-arm-assembly-sprint-rally-078724.html

Vaporblast and weld. It's original and definitely better than any repro part, especially the ones from FA that have more mozzarella in them, than aluminum…

Ffffffffaaaaaaaaaaaa

ck

Sorry man. What a kick in the berries.

That sucks big time Scott.

And by the way, if you're wanting to clean the VIN so that you can read it better, scrub it with a little wire brush (and not a wire wheel!) and Ospho. After a few minutes of scrubbing the metal will become very shiny (keep it wet the whole time). You might have to repeat the process a few times, but you'll have excellent results.

Thanks Mike! And great info for future tteference. In hindsight I should've torched the bolt. Makes sense.

We're going to go this way as a last resort. The new hubs are different than the old hubs, and require you buy all new hardware, and probably a new axle at that point to fit. I went through that when updating the VNB2 front end.

But worse come to worse, it's not the end of the world and we can buy new...

Thanks SaFiS! And I think I know just the welder here in town. Then I can just file the channels clean.

The hard part is finding a vapor blaster in the area, which they're aren't any. I'm gonna call a couple car guys. They all have media cabinets though, and not vapor blasting...

Yeah, I had to walk away and swear like a sailer that just lost his sail....

But today is a new day and the seas don't look as rough

I mean, the top edge of the mount is still there, so theoretically I could just use it as is, and it should work fine. I've seen people grind off the tabs to make the shock work, so ...

maybe you could have it repaired by weld / machine / drill out again. It seems like nothing worse than what Gick regularly repairs on engine cases. Maybe cheaper than a new one too or the same cost but saves you replacing other bits.

Thanks JohnnyG! I'm gonna try this, or Chris will.

Yes! Thank you John! This is what the calm seas of a new day are bringing to my peabrain while I swill some coffee and contemplate the front end.

And thank you all for the conformation and alternatives. With these 50+ year old machines, it seems there is always a Plan A, Plan B, and C, D & E, just in case A doesn't pan out, which it rarely does.

This one rattled me though. I fought with every single nut and bolt taking this front end apart, and the shock bolt was the last piece to remove....

I usually start out with a brass brush since it's a bit softer. If i'm not getting the results i'm after, then i'll switch out to a stainless steel. They're cheap to buy at Homo Depo. I've also bought them at a welding supply store as well. Make sure to wear gloves and glasses since that Ospho seems to get spattered everywhere when you're scrubbing with a wire brush.

Happens to the best of us. Always seems to happen when you are coming down the home stretch.

e parts is the next order of business. I've been degreasing the bearings and scrubbing the 59 years of gunk off these parts.

I'm soaking some in Evaporust that have some rust, then wire brush. I'll break out the Dremel with the abrasive heads tomorrow to take the next layer off. I haven't found someone in town yet that does vapor blasting, but I'll keep looking.

I hope everyone had a Happy Thanksgiving and y'all ate your fill. I made a couple pumpkin p.i.e.s with a gluten free graham cracker crust that was delicious! And of course, real whipped cream, by hand, with a touch of nutmeg and vanilla.

But I digress. A friend of mine in town said I should try these aluminum rods to weld the pieces back in to the shock mount, and he gave a few to use.

Big fail. the chip essentially melted into a puddle. I at least have it shot. Time to take the piece to the welder.

In the meantime, I'm cleaning up the parts of the front end to paint. We're going to go the route exmayor went on one of his smallies - ford wheel paint grey and satin clear.

Yummy stuff there and good luck on the welding!

Yeah, building up aluminum is a lot harder than building up steel, I've found. I pretty much have to just build up a giant pile and then machine it back down to what I wanted in the first place.

That's how I weld everything. I could only get so good at welding, so I became an accomplished grinder.