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@guido avatar
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2002 ET2 50
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Greetings!

I've got to do this and can't do it without your help.
Please, I ask all who know how to go about taking these carburetors apart,
offer some photos and a step by step procedure as how to go about doing this.
I'm mechanically inclined but have my limits. The Vespa I would consider
myself inept when knowing what to do with this machine.

I can't afford to screw around with it and not having any working knowledge of
what I need to do, start to finish, to properly disconnect and or drain any fuel
oil, lines and vacuum lines. What needs to be removed to accurately
disassemble the carburetor to get to whatever you think I need to clean to
allow fuel to flow.

I've read the articles posted and read the Haynes manual which does not cover
in depth the ET2 50 Weber carburetor. Fist hand knowledge and experience by
the "owners" here on the forum is my best chance to get it right.

I have one photo taken above the carburetor.
I would ask for your photos and procedure(s) moving forward.

Thank you!

Joe
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
@xantufrog avatar
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1980 P200E - "Old Rusty", 1976 ET3 Primavera
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@xantufrog avatar
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First of all, you should know that the weber is almost identical in anatomy to the dell'orto carb used as an example in the haynes manual for the 2-stroke piaggio scooters and which is posted on the wiki links 2-Stroke Carburetor Set-up Technique So you shouldn't get too hung up on finding instructions for this specific carb - opening it up and cleaning it will work the exact same way, with the parts looking more or less the same.

I've attached a version of your photo with numbers on it. The order you address the numbers isn't crazy important - they are more there just to refer to specific steps. These steps are for removing the carb - after that point you can open up the float bowl on the bottom, unscrew the jets, and clean them.

so:
1) this silver screw tightens a clamp holding the carb into the black rubber intake boot on the top of the crankcase. Loosen this screw quite a bit so that the clamp flops around.

2) this brass screw holds the throttle into the carb. Undo this screw to pull the throttle cap, cable, slide, and needle jet out of the carb as one unit. These can be further disassembled if desired, but shouldn't be necessary for your purposes - just wrap a paper towel around them or something to keep it clean and gently rest the assembly on the engine out of the way

3) this rubber boot is the intake to the carb from the airbox. It can be pulled off of either the carb body or the airbox. It doesn't matter which for your purposes (pulling the carb off the bike)

4) disconnect the 3 hoses from the carb. The number 4 is next to the gasoline hose. The other black hose is the vacuum hose which opens the fuel tap as the engine turns over. The little clear yellow-ish hose is the oil pump feed line - this is how 2T gets into your carb. The vacuum and oil pump hoses connect near the number 2 on the picture. All 3 hoses can be pulled off easily - on my scooter there is a hose clamp with a screw for the fuel hose, which must be loosened to get it off. The other two have a pinch clamp. Assuming yours is the same, but just go with the flow if your clamps are something different. Don't drop or lose the clamps, and feel free to reuse them as long as they still... clamp. I personally leave the pinch clamps on the vacuum and oil hoses, because they don't seem to want to fall off, but I pull the fuel hose clamp off since it will fall off if left to dangle.

Make sure gunk from your engine area doesn't get in the end of these hoses, especially the autolube, because the scooter will run "normally" with this hose obstructed until it scores the cylinder or seizes up. As will all mechanical work - keep things clean

5) this is your autochoke. You can either unplug it from the wiring loom (the plug is hidden inside a black protective rubber sleeve along the wiring toward where the it enters the body of the scooter on the right of your picture. On my scoot it was about 2/3 of the way toward the entrance to the body. You can either A) cut this sleeve off to access the plug, making sure not to cut the wires beneath, B) try to fold it back out of the way to access the plug, or C) remove the autochoke from the carb body where the #5 is placed in your picture.
To do the latter, there are two brass screws near the base of the autochoke holding it onto the carb body. You can see one halfway between the screws for #1 and #2. Undo these screws and a half-moon piece of metal which was clamping the autochoke onto the carb body will come off. Then *gently* pull the autochoke out of the carb body - it will want to stick in because it has an o-ring to give it a good seal in there. Gently and slowly pull it out, being careful not to mess up the plunger of the autochoke which sticks down into the carb. If you leave the autochoke hooked up to the wiring of the scooter, definitely gently wrap it in a clean paper towel before resting it anywhere and make sure it doesn't get knocked. You don't want to mess up the delicate plunger.

At this point, the carb can be jiggled out of the rubber intake boot which you loosened the clamp on in point number 1. Just lift and jiggle it toward the left of the picture and it will pop out of the boot. Careful, if you flip the carb over at this point any gas in the carb will dribble out the top where the throttle went in. You can either let this happen, or keep the carb upright and loosen the drain screw at the very bottom of the carb float bowl. Either way, gas is going to come out, so pick a good place for the gas to go (it's not a ton... maybe a couple of tablespoons?

Anyway, this will get the carb off your scoot and ready to open up. To put it back on, reverse the process.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
@panamaniac avatar
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2003 Piaggio BV 200, 2003 ET2 (sold)
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UTC quote
Wow, great reply Xantu! I hope this guy PMed you to thank you or something because the level of detail you provided was great! I've just started doing carb stuff recently and so learned several things from your post.

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Glad it was helpful!
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Re: Pics needed for cleaning carburetor jets
[b]xantufrog,

I'm sorry I haven't gotten back here since your "most excellent"
post assisting me with my starting woes with the ET2 50.

I can't thank you enough! I took my time, step by step and just over an
hour, got everything carefully disconnected and the carburetor out.

I took the carburetor to work, totally dismantled it and cleaned everything.
I had (2) Two jets plugged - (1) one partially and (1) one completely.

After dousing every component in carburetor cleaner (Gumout) and
soaking the jets in a Petrie dish for about an hour in the carburetor cleaner,
I then blew everything out with compressed air and re-assembled.

I replaced the fuel line clamp, bought a new spark plug (Honda NGK-R) and
replaced the worn out, 7 year old battery. After a few turns of the idle
adjustment screw, I dialed it in and it runs better than new.

I've spent the last 3 days putting together a written "step by step" along
with photos using both your words as well as my own to help me as well as
others in the future that have this particular scooter to get through the
process of disassembly and re-assembly of the carburetor including fuel, oil
and vacuum lines.

With your permission, I would gladly post. If there is a specific location on
the forum for the "How To" repairs for specific models or right here in the
General Discussion. It's totally up to you.

In addition, I wrote a "How to" for the air cleaner,
removing the faring and how to get to the air box and filter.

Again, many thanks!
@hachi avatar
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Well done Guido! I look forward to your post.
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1980 P200E - "Old Rusty", 1976 ET3 Primavera
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Awesome Guido! Feel free to share (and clean up) anything I've written - it's not "my" knowledge or anything (now it's yours too!). It sounds like the how-to you are writing is best for the wiki section of the forum, which is supposed to be a repository for technical info and walkthroughs. If I were you I would make a wiki article, similar to the one I linked above, and maybe post a notice about it in the General Discussion as a heads-up for interested readers.
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Greetings!
It appears I must have 100 posts in before I can either add to or post a Wiki.
I guess I'll try posting in the General Discussion. Although I wrote this in Word
format, with text and photos following each paragraph so I'm not sure if it will
work or not. I'll give it a try.

Guido
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"How To" for carburetor removal, dis-assembly/re-a
Greetings!

The file must be too large and or it won't accept a PDF of my
18 page "How To" for carburetor removal, dis-assembly/re-assembly and
reinstall, complete with detailed, easy to read and understand step by step
instructions along with mostly clear, close-up photos.

With that said, in the meantime,
if there is anyone out there with a Vespa ET2 50 and you are in
need of "Do it yourself" carburetor / air cleaner directions, just drop me
a PM or a response here with your e-mail address and I will send you a
PDF formatted copy of it. This way you can print it off at home and have it
for your very own and will have it if the problem arises again.

Peace

Guido
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guido, can I get that pdf
Would love to have that pdf of how to clean the carburetor.
I have a 2000 et2.
OP
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Re: carb cleaning PDF
Hello,
I just tried sending the PDF to a couple of forum members and
based on the file size (185 MB) it comes back to me as not being able to send.

For whatever the reason, either my computer can't because the file size is so
large - with several photos along with text or the destination can't accept.

Regardless, I will try to find a way to post it in steps on the forum.
@xantufrog avatar
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1980 P200E - "Old Rusty", 1976 ET3 Primavera
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you should PM Jimc - he has a website where he hosts shop manuals, owners manuals, etc - all larger pdfs... wotmeworry.org. He can probably host your file online, and you could post the link here for people to download as desired.
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Alternatively, you could upload it to mediafire.com or some similar file hosting site so that Jim doesn't have to pay for any additional bandwidth that that might cause his server. 185mb adds up quickly.
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Good evening!

I opened a Dropbox.
So for those interested, please send a PM to me with your e-mail address and I will add your e-mail address to my Dropbox so you can access the folder.
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So close, yet so far away!!!
I think I am exactly at this point....My husband has taken his week's vacation to get the "toys" around the house in working order. My Vespa is on the list. Likely doesn't start because it's been sitting with fuel in take for about 2 years. Put in new battery and checked spark plug, pulled fuel line (those seem to be in working order). Suspect gummed up carb. So, I am so lucky to find this thread.

At this moment, my husband is out at the store purchasing the carb cleaning solution and this is our plan. FYI, I am the more mechanically inclined out of the 2 of us - so I hope that I don't scare anyone or make anyone laugh too hard at my following observations and questions.

I have loosened that metal gasket and removed 99% of the tubes. I have 2 concerns; there appears to be a "clear" (yellowish) thin tube that won't come off easily and I don't want to pull it. Also, air "intake?" is ziptied onto the carb (area 3 on the numbered picture) and the filter box thing and I don't want to force that off. Do I cut it? Do I just "rip" it out from the zip tied hose?

Right now, I can't remove the carb out of the gasketed hose even though I have loosened the gasket more than enough. Again I don't want to force anything at this point.

Any info ASAP to remove this so that when he gets home we can move on smoothly will be a great help. (I have also emailed guido for that link).
Carolyn

UPDATE: I got it removed and can now disassemble and am working on what Guido described above. (my hubby is asking if I know how to reassemble? I hope so!...)
UPDATE 2: yes a jet was plugged and needed cleaning. Put back together and discover that fuel tap is bad. Onto a new topic!
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Greetings,

Before anyone starts the process, I would strongly suggest siphoning out the
existing gas from the gas tank. More than likely the fuel is no longer any
good.

Once your finished with the carburetor, fill with fresh premium fuel.
There is a reason why Vespa recommends using a minimum of 90 octane.
I use 93 octane premium unleaded.

Joe

p.s. "Guido" is the nickname I gave my Scooter.
@xantufrog avatar
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Re: So close, yet so far away!!!
Pioneer Girl wrote:
UPDATE: I got it removed and can now disassemble and am working on what Guido described above. (my hubby is asking if I know how to reassemble? I hope so!...)
UPDATE 2: yes a jet was plugged and needed cleaning. Put back together and discover that fuel tap is bad. Onto a new topic!
Well done, Pioneer! Popping the carb out of the intake, and popping the ziptied boot off is fine - a little resistance is normal because these are rubber bits that fit snugly on the carb. You don't want to "yank" on anything, and don't pull in unnatural directions (i.e. pull the carb laterally "out" of the boot more than you twist it).
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Guido wrote:
Greetings,

Before anyone starts the process, I would strongly suggest siphoning out the
existing gas from the gas tank. More than likely the fuel is no longer any
good.

Once your finished with the carburetor, fill with fresh premium fuel.
There is a reason why Vespa recommends using a minimum of 90 octane.
I use 93 octane premium unleaded.

Joe

p.s. "Guido" is the nickname I gave my Scooter.
LOL! Very wise words. You do not want to do what my husband did and just start removing hoses and fuel taps and such and be surprised when fuel is gushing all over the place. (this happened, of corse, while I was not there to supervise) Have a container handy too...

Re, the gas, I am resolving to putting non ethanol gas in the tank, and the higher octane. Only a couple of places sell no ethanol gas around here so I will have to plan refuels or since we actually are resolving to do this with all toys and lawn equip I would have some at home ideally to refuel.
OP
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Greetings!

So your in Idaho? I want to visit your fine state one of these years.
I understand the fly fishing is one of many great things to do there.

I hope the how to step by step helps you better understand what you have to
work with. Like you folks, I was literally forced into repairing the thing myself.

I pushed it 6 miles just to get it home. If you have patience -
(its a virtue you know), then you will do just fine. I would be glad to answer
any questions you might have.

However, I will be out of town until Monday so anything after tomorrow
I won't be able to help you with until then. There are a lot of knowledgeable
people here on the forum so you are in good hands.

Especially xantufrog. He would be "The Man" to answer all.

Joe
⬆️    About 2 months elapsed    ⬇️
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parts
so:
Quote:
1) this silver screw tightens a clamp holding the carb into the black rubber intake boot on the top of the crankcase. Loosen this screw quite a bit so that the clamp flops around.

2) this brass screw holds the throttle into the carb. Undo this screw to pull the throttle cap, cable, slide, and needle jet out of the carb as one unit. These can be further disassembled if desired, but shouldn't be necessary for your purposes - just wrap a paper towel around them or something to keep it clean and gently rest the assembly on the engine out of the way

3) this rubber boot is the intake to the carb from the airbox. It can be pulled off of either the carb body or the airbox. It doesn't matter which for your purposes (pulling the carb off the bike)
I have noticed that on my scooter, the 2 rubber boots that i have highlighted, have seemed to split completely threw in several places and my scooter is leaking gas as a result.
Can someone please tell me if I can replace just those 2 parts and what they are called and where i may be able to find them? and if not, then maybe direct me and let me know what I need to do to fix this?

Thank you,
Skeeter
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Re: parts
skeeter475 wrote:
I have noticed that on my scooter, the 2 rubber boots that i have highlighted, have seemed to split completely threw in several places and my scooter is leaking gas as a result.
Well, you're going to have to get those parts from a Vespa dealer...

I'd call them the "pipe from the air cleaner to the carburetor" and the "front carburetor mounting pipe" though I'm sure those aren't the proper technical terms...

But, your scooter shouldn't be "leaking gas" because they are split... You need to investigate the leaking gas. You may need other parts.

Bob
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2 helmets, 2 jackets, 4 spark plugs, 2 rear bulbs, some bolts, a spring, an ET rear rack, clear indicators and half a can of unleaded, but no bike!
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xantufrog wrote:
First of all, you should know that the weber is almost identical in anatomy to the dell'orto carb used as an example in the haynes manual for the 2-stroke piaggio scooters and which is posted on the wiki links 2-Stroke Carburetor Set-up Technique So you shouldn't get too hung up on finding instructions for this specific carb - opening it up and cleaning it will work the exact same way, with the parts looking more or less the same.

I've attached a version of your photo with numbers on it. The order you address the numbers isn't crazy important - they are more there just to refer to specific steps. These steps are for removing the carb - after that point you can open up the float bowl on the bottom, unscrew the jets, and clean them.

so:
1) this silver screw tightens a clamp holding the carb into the black rubber intake boot on the top of the crankcase. Loosen this screw quite a bit so that the clamp flops around.

2) this brass screw holds the throttle into the carb. Undo this screw to pull the throttle cap, cable, slide, and needle jet out of the carb as one unit. These can be further disassembled if desired, but shouldn't be necessary for your purposes - just wrap a paper towel around them or something to keep it clean and gently rest the assembly on the engine out of the way

3) this rubber boot is the intake to the carb from the airbox. It can be pulled off of either the carb body or the airbox. It doesn't matter which for your purposes (pulling the carb off the bike)

4) disconnect the 3 hoses from the carb. The number 4 is next to the gasoline hose. The other black hose is the vacuum hose which opens the fuel tap as the engine turns over. The little clear yellow-ish hose is the oil pump feed line - this is how 2T gets into your carb. The vacuum and oil pump hoses connect near the number 2 on the picture. All 3 hoses can be pulled off easily - on my scooter there is a hose clamp with a screw for the fuel hose, which must be loosened to get it off. The other two have a pinch clamp. Assuming yours is the same, but just go with the flow if your clamps are something different. Don't drop or lose the clamps, and feel free to reuse them as long as they still... clamp. I personally leave the pinch clamps on the vacuum and oil hoses, because they don't seem to want to fall off, but I pull the fuel hose clamp off since it will fall off if left to dangle.

Make sure gunk from your engine area doesn't get in the end of these hoses, especially the autolube, because the scooter will run "normally" with this hose obstructed until it scores the cylinder or seizes up. As will all mechanical work - keep things clean

5) this is your autochoke. You can either unplug it from the wiring loom (the plug is hidden inside a black protective rubber sleeve along the wiring toward where the it enters the body of the scooter on the right of your picture. On my scoot it was about 2/3 of the way toward the entrance to the body. You can either A) cut this sleeve off to access the plug, making sure not to cut the wires beneath, B) try to fold it back out of the way to access the plug, or C) remove the autochoke from the carb body where the #5 is placed in your picture.
To do the latter, there are two brass screws near the base of the autochoke holding it onto the carb body. You can see one halfway between the screws for #1 and #2. Undo these screws and a half-moon piece of metal which was clamping the autochoke onto the carb body will come off. Then *gently* pull the autochoke out of the carb body - it will want to stick in because it has an o-ring to give it a good seal in there. Gently and slowly pull it out, being careful not to mess up the plunger of the autochoke which sticks down into the carb. If you leave the autochoke hooked up to the wiring of the scooter, definitely gently wrap it in a clean paper towel before resting it anywhere and make sure it doesn't get knocked. You don't want to mess up the delicate plunger.

At this point, the carb can be jiggled out of the rubber intake boot which you loosened the clamp on in point number 1. Just lift and jiggle it toward the left of the picture and it will pop out of the boot. Careful, if you flip the carb over at this point any gas in the carb will dribble out the top where the throttle went in. You can either let this happen, or keep the carb upright and loosen the drain screw at the very bottom of the carb float bowl. Either way, gas is going to come out, so pick a good place for the gas to go (it's not a ton... maybe a couple of tablespoons?

Anyway, this will get the carb off your scoot and ready to open up. To put it back on, reverse the process.
Soory to butt in, but Im gonna have to give you a thumbs up for that response! Superb, and great for all of the other ET2 owners out there!
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Huge thanks to all who contributed to this post and especially to Guido who put it ALL together in a superbly "idiot-proofed" package.
Guido, you are the man!
⬆️    About 3 months elapsed    ⬇️
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et2 50cc carb
Hi guys this subject on the carb is very helpful but can anyone tell me where i can get a new one i'd like put a new on and rebuild the one thats on there and keep it as a spare
thanks gft florida
⬆️    About 4 years elapsed    ⬇️
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Guido
Guido,
I would love to get a copy of your detailed instructions. I have a 2004 et2 50.

Thanks,
JQ
⬆️    About 2 months elapsed    ⬇️
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Vespa Carb - Guido
Ciao Guido

can I have access to your guide about the carb?
I'm in a very similar situation with my Vespa

Thank
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I have a 2002 ET2 50 also, and have been using a product called Sea Foam on all my things with engines that don't get much use - mower, tiller, Vespa, etc. Since putting some Sea Foam in, I have had zero problems with bad gas gumming up the works on my Vespa. It was recommended to me by a friend, and I found it at the local big box hardware store.
⬆️    About 4 years elapsed    ⬇️
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Hey Guido

i would love to get the PDF please
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UTC quote
I know the original question was a while ago but this might be useful for anyone else with a similar question.....

>>>>> Getting Your 2-Stroke to Run Properly


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@xantufrog avatar
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Moderibbit
1980 P200E - "Old Rusty", 1976 ET3 Primavera
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8892
Location: Atlanta, GA
 
Moderibbit
@xantufrog avatar
1980 P200E - "Old Rusty", 1976 ET3 Primavera
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8892
Location: Atlanta, GA
UTC quote
Fabio Dougie wrote:
I know the original question was a while ago but this might be useful for anyone else with a similar question.....

>>>>> Getting Your 2-Stroke to Run Properly


.
Fabio! I was just skimming through and saw your reply. Good to see you are still active. Hope all is well with you and your scoot
⬆️    About 2 months elapsed    ⬇️
@fabio_dougie avatar
UTC

Scooter Pimp
Joined: UTC
Posts: 3098
Location: England
 
Scooter Pimp
@fabio_dougie avatar
Joined: UTC
Posts: 3098
Location: England
UTC quote
xantufrog wrote:
Fabio! I was just skimming through and saw your reply. Good to see you are still active. Hope all is well with you and your scoot
Hi Xantu

All is fine here in the sunny UK!

I haven't been on modernvespa for a while as have been distracted with work and also some other commitments.

Back here now though.

All the best
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