Joined: 11 Oct 2005
Location: Bay Area, California
Re-Keying Your GT200 Top Case
This write-up was done by Kyle Partlow who graciously gave permission to reproduce it here. These instructions may or may not apply to other Vespa top cases.
You can have a Locksmith do this $10-$25 in a couple hours OR you can do like Kyle did....Work for three hours , Gouge the end of your thumb with a screwdriver and finally muddle through it.
I thought so.....
Below are the best instructions I can give you and one bigass picture with numbered pictures. I'll refer to figure numbers along the way to help you.
You may want to print these instructions for reference while doing the re-key operation.
The top case used in this how-to article belongs to the GT200. However, the same general instructions also apply quite well to the LX, ET, and GTS top cases.
WARNING: Tiny springs and parts!
If you can't handle little things or get frustrated easily pay the money at the locksmith.
What You Will Need
- Adjustable wrench
- 11mm wrench
- Small hammer
- Small screwdriver
- Needle nose pliers
1. Remove the Lock from the scoot by removing the plastic cover, and then using the adjustable wrench to undo the locking ring so you can pull out the lock complete with latch hook.
2. Insert Key so you have something to hold the cylinder and undo the nut that holds the Latch Hook on with the 11mm wrench. (figure 1)
3 Remove latch hook & two washers. (figure 2)
4. Twist the Key 90 degrees and pull back on Key, the cylinder will come out. NOTE: it may have a little resistance but that is the rubber seal sticking...it will come out just wiggle a little. (figure 3)
5. Remove the rubber seal so it won't get damaged. (figure 4)
6. Place Key and Cylinder in the vise so the Cylinder cap (That silver thing the key slides through) is about 1/8 inch above the jaws. This will give you stability and reduce the risk of breaking the key. (figure 5)
7. Using a punch (OK so I'm abusing a screw driver instead) tap above the four indents until yo can force thme off and down so the Cylinder cap is free but still sitting on top of the key. (figure 6)
WARNING : small spring loaded pieces in the next few steps. Do this over white paper or even better a white towel. just in case.
8. Wrap a strip of paper around the Cylinder to secure the pins (wafers) in the next couple steps.
9. Remove the key, when you do the Cylinder cap and the pring for the gate in it will probably fall off. so be ready to catch them. Set them neatly aside and look into the end of the Cylinder you will see a small brass bar this is the retaining bar for the pins (wafers). (figure 7)
10. Remove the retaining bar with needle nose pliers (figure 8)
Note: You've still got your cylinder wrapped in that strip of paper right? 'Cause if you didn't you now have pins (wafers) and really tiny springs all over the place.
11. Place the Blue key (ignition) in the cylinder, then release the paper.
See how the pins (wafers) line up with the cylibnder surface on some and not other pins (wafers)? You want to mark the pins (wafers) that do line up as they will be staying in their places.
12. Slowly and carefuly remove the Blue Key while holding pressure on the pins (wafers) until the key is all the way out. This will leave all the pins sitting all the way out.
13. See the slots where the pins (wafers) are? Each one is a position on the key. Hold your key up next to the slots and you can see where each dip or raise on the key relates to the cylinder. There are 9 pins (wafers)
14. Make yourself a diagram showing the Trunk key and the Blue (Ignition) key. Number each 1 through 9 starting at the base of the key.
Also make a line to the right and number the bottom of the line 1 - 9 and leave the top blank. (figure 9)
15. Now carefully remove the pins (wafers) that didn't match up with the cylinder surface in step 11 and place them above their corresponding number on your diagram (figure 9)
16. compare the key cuts and find which ones are the same size. (I used a pair of calipers), but if you don't have calipers you can Slide the keys back and forth over each other till two same cuts line up. Then note Which Trunk Position and Which Blue position line up.
Mark the Trunk key cut position numbers above the numbers you wrote on the Blue key diagram. (again see figure 9)
You will notice above that some numbers are missing.
You will NOT most likely be able to use ALL of the pins (wafers) when rekeying due to the fact they won't all match. as long as you have two or three pins(wafers) that work in your final cylinder you should be fine.
(The trunk locking pin is only secured by two screws into plastic anyway so if they want what's in your trunk they are taking it.)
17. Keep trying the key after putting the pins(wafers) in the cylinder.
Once you have all installed pins (wafers) flush with the cylinder surface your set.
18. Wrap the paper around the Cylinder again and pull out the Blue key.
Now insert the retaining bar.
19. Place the spring/gate and Cylinder Cap on the end of the cylinder and make sure the gate works by placing the key through it.
Now using a pointed punch (a nail will work), punch down the original 4 indents to hold the cap tight.
20. Place rubber seal back on the cylinder and insert into Lock
21. When placing your cylinder if the cylinder cap sits proud twist the cylinder 180 degrees and try again until it sits flush.
See figures 10 (Wrong) & 11 (right)
22. Replace the latch hook and two washers then secure with the 11mm nut.
23. Reinstall in your scooter trunk.
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