OP
Mon, 05 Nov 2012 22:35:46 +0000

Hooked
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Location: San Francisco
 
Hooked
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Posts: 143
Location: San Francisco
Mon, 05 Nov 2012 22:35:46 +0000 quote
Hi,
I've been struggling with my 6v system on my 1974 (yes, the odd wiring).
I seem to keep having to re-charge the (new) battery even though I have a regulator/rectifier that outputs +6V.

As I'm trying other options I wonder; is there a way to bypass the battery and run it all of the 6V DC output from the regulator/rectifier?
I realise that if I get it working the lights will be dimmer, but the regulator should protect them from blowing.
As I understand it the lights are running of the battery at present, but some other things are off the rectifier.

Diagram below, only change is that I have removed all the indicators.

Thanks!
Mon, 05 Nov 2012 23:24:42 +0000

Ossessionato
73 & 74 Rally, 76 ET3, 80 P200, 06 PX150, 61 Ser 2, 65 Silver Special, 90 V5N 50, 01 ET2, 2015 HD Road Glide Special
Joined: Thu, 19 Jan 2012 07:14:28 +0000
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Location: Oceanside, CA
 
Ossessionato
73 & 74 Rally, 76 ET3, 80 P200, 06 PX150, 61 Ser 2, 65 Silver Special, 90 V5N 50, 01 ET2, 2015 HD Road Glide Special
Joined: Thu, 19 Jan 2012 07:14:28 +0000
Posts: 4926
Location: Oceanside, CA
Mon, 05 Nov 2012 23:24:42 +0000 quote
Before going batteryless on my 74 Rally, I bypassed the battery and tried running all of the DC parts off the rectifier (tail light, brake light, DC horn, no signals). It did work, but not very well. The battery just had more oomph behind it compared to the rectifier.

I had other major problems with the wiring and eventually gave in and re-wired it all off the stator. No problems since doing that, and I got rid of the turn signals. Only thing I'm having trouble with is finding an AC horn to fit the Rally horncast.
OP
Tue, 06 Nov 2012 01:16:06 +0000

Hooked
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Hooked
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Tue, 06 Nov 2012 01:16:06 +0000 quote
Thanks for the feedback.
Just curious, how did you by-pass it based on the diagram above?
Tue, 06 Nov 2012 01:36:17 +0000

Ossessionato
73 & 74 Rally, 76 ET3, 80 P200, 06 PX150, 61 Ser 2, 65 Silver Special, 90 V5N 50, 01 ET2, 2015 HD Road Glide Special
Joined: Thu, 19 Jan 2012 07:14:28 +0000
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Ossessionato
73 & 74 Rally, 76 ET3, 80 P200, 06 PX150, 61 Ser 2, 65 Silver Special, 90 V5N 50, 01 ET2, 2015 HD Road Glide Special
Joined: Thu, 19 Jan 2012 07:14:28 +0000
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Location: Oceanside, CA
Tue, 06 Nov 2012 01:36:17 +0000 quote
My wiring was really jacked up but I tried connected the positive wire off the battery to my rectifier connection. The regulator was grounded already so it kinda worked. To me it seemed like the original Ducati stator didn't have enough amps behind it to do anything. Or, it was my fucked up wiring.

According to your diagram the positive lead off the battery goes up to a fuse and the goes up to the right side handlebar switch. Then it's sent around the bike to the DC electronics.
Tue, 06 Nov 2012 05:59:29 +0000

Banned
3:5
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Location: San Francisco
 
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Tue, 06 Nov 2012 05:59:29 +0000 quote
the two yellow wires on the stator put out ~12vAC. The stock setup is a half wave rectifier to give you 6vDC. It's not hard to put in a bridge rectifier to get 12VDC and run that as battery-less.

That said, the stock setup works well as long as there are no shorts or leakage to run the battery down.
OP
Tue, 06 Nov 2012 15:32:36 +0000

Hooked
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Hooked
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Tue, 06 Nov 2012 15:32:36 +0000 quote
Thanks, I guess the next step will be a 12 v conversion if I don't get things to work as I wish them to. Not sure if I have to rewire it all or just adjust things around a new 12 v rectifier.
oopsclunkthud wrote:
the two yellow wires on the stator put out ~12vAC. The stock setup is a half wave rectifier to give you 6vDC. It's not hard to put in a bridge rectifier to get 12VDC and run that as battery-less.

That said, the stock setup works well as long as there are no shorts or leakage to run the battery down.
Tue, 06 Nov 2012 17:06:29 +0000

Molto Verboso
1974 Rally USA 200 1980 P200e
Joined: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 01:32:40 +0000
Posts: 1806
Location: Pioneer Valley Ma.
 
Molto Verboso
1974 Rally USA 200 1980 P200e
Joined: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 01:32:40 +0000
Posts: 1806
Location: Pioneer Valley Ma.
Tue, 06 Nov 2012 17:06:29 +0000 quote
How old is your battery? I keep mine plugged in with a pigtail to the trickle charger. You should just keep it stock. 6 v works if you just maintain it. You need the added battery juice to have all work together.
OP
Tue, 06 Nov 2012 21:43:01 +0000

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Hooked
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Tue, 06 Nov 2012 21:43:01 +0000 quote
I keep it at work with no option to connect the battery without removing it. Every two weeks the lights die and I have to remove the battery, charge and then reinstall. It's a hassle.
gatekeep wrote:
How old is your battery? I keep mine plugged in with a pigtail to the trickle charger. You should just keep it stock. 6 v works if you just maintain it. You need the added battery juice to have all work together.
Tue, 06 Nov 2012 22:20:01 +0000

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Tue, 06 Nov 2012 22:20:01 +0000 quote
A charge voltage has to be higher than the battery voltage.

Have you checked your rectifiers output?
Have you check for eart leakage when switched off? connect positive battery terminal to one side of ammeter and the other side of ammeter to wire. See if any current flows. if you have a spare regulator swap over.
OP
Tue, 06 Nov 2012 22:23:55 +0000

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Hooked
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Tue, 06 Nov 2012 22:23:55 +0000 quote
Charge voltage 6.1-6.3V. Non leaks with key off. Lights are probably draining the battery faster than the regulator can charge. Hmm.
adtirb wrote:
A charge voltage has to be higher than the battery voltage.

Have you checked your rectifiers output?
Have you check for eart leakage when switched off? connect positive battery terminal to one side of ammeter and the other side of ammeter to wire. See if any current flows. if you have a spare regulator swap over.
Wed, 07 Nov 2012 03:09:30 +0000

Ossessionato
a lambretta or two
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Ossessionato
a lambretta or two
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Wed, 07 Nov 2012 03:09:30 +0000 quote
How is the scooter's engine running?
OP
Wed, 07 Nov 2012 03:12:07 +0000

Hooked
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Hooked
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Wed, 07 Nov 2012 03:12:07 +0000 quote
Running great I'd say.
SFvsr wrote:
How is the scooter's engine running?
Wed, 07 Nov 2012 05:00:45 +0000

Hooked
74 Rally 200
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Location: Sonoma
 
Hooked
74 Rally 200
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Location: Sonoma
Wed, 07 Nov 2012 05:00:45 +0000 quote
The battery just stores excess electricity in the stock set up. That is, if the draw from the bike is less than what the stator puts out, it charges the battery and if it's less then it draws from the battery. I can't see why it wouldn't work just fine without the battery.

My rectifier/regulator burnt out a bunch of years ago and I was having a horrible time sourcing one, so I installed some Bajaj 12v stator windings on my bike, added a 12vac regulator and run AC. Bright lights! Even at idle they're pretty good.

BTW, that circle in the middle of diagram with the ???? next to it is your ignition switch. In the "off" position it connects the purple and black wires (to short the stator and kill the ignition) and in "on" it connects the two red wires allowing the battery to do it's thing.
⬆️    About 7w elapsed between posts    ⬇️
Thu, 27 Dec 2012 00:53:12 +0000

Enthusiast
1974 Vespa Rally 200
Joined: Thu, 19 May 2011 20:30:12 +0000
Posts: 90
Location: Seattle, WA
 
Enthusiast
1974 Vespa Rally 200
Joined: Thu, 19 May 2011 20:30:12 +0000
Posts: 90
Location: Seattle, WA
Thu, 27 Dec 2012 00:53:12 +0000 quote
Re: 1974 Rally 200 - Batteryless but still 6V?
I've got a '74 Rally 200 also. My full resto is kind of halted while I figure out this wiring. Seems rather confusing, and the stock harness I bought from scootermercato doesn't seem to line up well.

Regardless, the photo you posted shows a CDI, FYI. My '74 is a Femsa, wiring of mine SHOULD match:

http://www.scooterhelp.com/electrics/wiring/VSE1.wKey.Batt.Blinks.B1977.pdf
kent_kurt wrote:
Hi,
I've been struggling with my 6v system on my 1974 (yes, the odd wiring).
I seem to keep having to re-charge the (new) battery even though I have a regulator/rectifier that outputs +6V.

As I'm trying other options I wonder; is there a way to bypass the battery and run it all of the 6V DC output from the regulator/rectifier?
I realise that if I get it working the lights will be dimmer, but the regulator should protect them from blowing.
As I understand it the lights are running of the battery at present, but some other things are off the rectifier.

Diagram below, only change is that I have removed all the indicators.

Thanks!
[img][/img]
Thu, 27 Dec 2012 05:33:23 +0000

Molto Verboso
1974 Rally 200
Joined: Tue, 19 Sep 2006 03:59:09 +0000
Posts: 1775
Location: Heading north on Forever Street
 
Molto Verboso
1974 Rally 200
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Posts: 1775
Location: Heading north on Forever Street
Thu, 27 Dec 2012 05:33:23 +0000 quote
Similar situation on my '74 Rally 200. I've removed the useless turn signals, replaced the headlamp with a 'better' 35w halogen and made some LED tail lights.

Just installed a new 6v battery (got ~6 years out of the old battery). Still need to trickle charge the new battery. I have not measured the stator output, nor have I tried re-magnetizing the flywheel.

Next, looking to experiment with some of the new-new CREE LED stars with a constant-current driver and suitable optics. That might provide a good low-current headlight - if the lumens are enough. TBD.
Sun, 30 Dec 2012 20:49:20 +0000

Hooked
'74 rally 200
Joined: Fri, 15 Jun 2012 05:38:08 +0000
Posts: 101
Location: sacto, ca
 
Hooked
'74 rally 200
Joined: Fri, 15 Jun 2012 05:38:08 +0000
Posts: 101
Location: sacto, ca
Sun, 30 Dec 2012 20:49:20 +0000 quote
Hello all. I'm restoring my '74 rally, and have it done except for the electrics. I would love it if I could eliminate the battery and rectifier and turn signals. Could I do that with stock set up? I'm really a novice when it comes electrics, do any help would be great.
Mon, 31 Dec 2012 15:01:24 +0000

Hooked
Vespa Rally 200/1967 Lambretta SX150,1979 P200E.1981 Primavera 125.
Joined: Wed, 05 Dec 2012 11:18:50 +0000
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Location: NORFOLK,ENGLAND
 
Hooked
Vespa Rally 200/1967 Lambretta SX150,1979 P200E.1981 Primavera 125.
Joined: Wed, 05 Dec 2012 11:18:50 +0000
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Location: NORFOLK,ENGLAND
Mon, 31 Dec 2012 15:01:24 +0000 quote
I had a similar problem on my old rally years ago,I had the flywheel remagnetised and stator re-wired and the lights were much brighter and had enought oommpphh to charge the battery.
Tue, 08 Jan 2013 18:56:56 +0000

Ossessionato
a lambretta or two
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Location: San Francisco
 
Ossessionato
a lambretta or two
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Tue, 08 Jan 2013 18:56:56 +0000 quote
KentKurt brought his Rally over and I omitted the battery for him. Lights are bright as hell now.

Looks like this when done:
Tue, 08 Jan 2013 20:50:54 +0000

Ossessionato
73 & 74 Rally, 76 ET3, 80 P200, 06 PX150, 61 Ser 2, 65 Silver Special, 90 V5N 50, 01 ET2, 2015 HD Road Glide Special
Joined: Thu, 19 Jan 2012 07:14:28 +0000
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Ossessionato
73 & 74 Rally, 76 ET3, 80 P200, 06 PX150, 61 Ser 2, 65 Silver Special, 90 V5N 50, 01 ET2, 2015 HD Road Glide Special
Joined: Thu, 19 Jan 2012 07:14:28 +0000
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Location: Oceanside, CA
Tue, 08 Jan 2013 20:50:54 +0000 quote
[quote="SFvsr"]KentKurt brought his Rally over and I omitted the battery for him. Lights are bright as hell now.

Looks like this when done:[/quote]

You go full AC on the bike? Did you do something for his horn circuit?
Tue, 08 Jan 2013 21:16:06 +0000

Ossessionato
a lambretta or two
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Location: San Francisco
 
Ossessionato
a lambretta or two
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Tue, 08 Jan 2013 21:16:06 +0000 quote
MJRally wrote:
SFvsr wrote:
KentKurt brought his Rally over and I omitted the battery for him. Lights are bright as hell now.

Looks like this when done:
You go full AC on the bike? Did you do something for his horn circuit?
Losing the horn is the part of the bargain.
Tue, 08 Jan 2013 21:20:25 +0000

Molto Verboso
Joined: Sat, 15 Nov 2008 17:07:56 +0000
Posts: 1924
Location: Seattle
 
Molto Verboso
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Location: Seattle
Tue, 08 Jan 2013 21:20:25 +0000 quote
Oscillator wrote:
Next, looking to experiment with some of the new-new CREE LED stars with a constant-current driver and suitable optics. That might provide a good low-current headlight - if the lumens are enough. TBD.
problem won't be the lumens, it'll be the beam pattern. unless you get a good lens in front of it it may be very widely dispersed.

a very bad thing, as the road in front of you will get ton more light then you are used to, but less light goes further down the road so your distance visibility will be less.

result? you'll see less further down the road and be more overconfident.


that and heat. LED's of this magnitude don't like heat one bit.
Thu, 10 Jan 2013 02:56:16 +0000

Hooked
'74 rally 200
Joined: Fri, 15 Jun 2012 05:38:08 +0000
Posts: 101
Location: sacto, ca
 
Hooked
'74 rally 200
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Location: sacto, ca
Thu, 10 Jan 2013 02:56:16 +0000 quote
was goofing around today with my rally and this happened....

my rally is a 1974, ive got no indicators, and no horn, and also, no battery!! from the wiring harness, i connected the far black wire in place of the far yellow wire, and presto...all my lights work!! take a look at the photo, and tell my why this wont work...
Thu, 10 Jan 2013 03:13:45 +0000

Hooked
'74 rally 200
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Location: sacto, ca
 
Hooked
'74 rally 200
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Location: sacto, ca
Thu, 10 Jan 2013 03:13:45 +0000 quote
here is the regulator side...no battery, no turn signal blinker...i didn't do anything to this area..only attached to two wires at the junction box as previously stated.

one thing i did notice, when the motor reaches a certain RPM, the lights all get a little dimmer...not sure what to do about that.
Thu, 10 Jan 2013 03:59:41 +0000

Ossessionato
73 & 74 Rally, 76 ET3, 80 P200, 06 PX150, 61 Ser 2, 65 Silver Special, 90 V5N 50, 01 ET2, 2015 HD Road Glide Special
Joined: Thu, 19 Jan 2012 07:14:28 +0000
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Ossessionato
73 & 74 Rally, 76 ET3, 80 P200, 06 PX150, 61 Ser 2, 65 Silver Special, 90 V5N 50, 01 ET2, 2015 HD Road Glide Special
Joined: Thu, 19 Jan 2012 07:14:28 +0000
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Location: Oceanside, CA
Thu, 10 Jan 2013 03:59:41 +0000 quote
[quote="c.stewart2009"]here is the regulator side...no battery, no turn signal blinker...i didn't do anything to this area..only attached to two wires at the junction box as previously stated.

one thing i did notice, when the motor reaches a certain RPM, the lights all get a little dimmer...not sure what to do about that.[/quote]

When I was re-wiring my Rallys a few months ago, Barry at SF Scooter Centre told me to ground out one yellow wire and have the other wire go to the regulator. Don't fully understand why it works, but it puts out 12V AC.

Are you talking about the lights dimming when the RPM's decrease? If so thats normal. Read up on a few batteryless threads and people will mention it.

The engine, headlight, and brake lights all require power but the stator can only give so much. The best analogy I've heard about why the voltage drops and the lights dim was from my friend Jeff. He said "just imagine 3 fat chicks with straws all drinking from the same coke. You either need to get rid of one of them or add more coke."
⚠️ Last edited by MJRally on Thu, 10 Jan 2013 04:04:05 +0000; edited 1 time
Thu, 10 Jan 2013 04:02:18 +0000

Ossessionato
1970 Vespa Rally 180
Joined: Fri, 05 Dec 2008 04:22:24 +0000
Posts: 4145
Location: Denton Tx.
 
Ossessionato
1970 Vespa Rally 180
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Location: Denton Tx.
Thu, 10 Jan 2013 04:02:18 +0000 quote
can I imagine 3 hot chicks in leather instead?
Thu, 10 Jan 2013 04:19:54 +0000

Hooked
'74 rally 200
Joined: Fri, 15 Jun 2012 05:38:08 +0000
Posts: 101
Location: sacto, ca
 
Hooked
'74 rally 200
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Posts: 101
Location: sacto, ca
Thu, 10 Jan 2013 04:19:54 +0000 quote
the lights get brighter according to RPM, but when they hit a certain level of RPM, then they get dim. kinda like when i used a zenor diode, just not very bright. not bright enough for night driving.
Fri, 11 Jan 2013 01:29:35 +0000

Hooked
'74 rally 200
Joined: Fri, 15 Jun 2012 05:38:08 +0000
Posts: 101
Location: sacto, ca
 
Hooked
'74 rally 200
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Location: sacto, ca
Fri, 11 Jan 2013 01:29:35 +0000 quote
Any ideas/suggestions? I'm figuring it can't be that easy, so must be doing something wrong. Do I need to convert my lights to 12V? All I did was flip flop the far yellow wire, and the far black wire.
Fri, 11 Jan 2013 01:51:34 +0000

Ossessionato
73 & 74 Rally, 76 ET3, 80 P200, 06 PX150, 61 Ser 2, 65 Silver Special, 90 V5N 50, 01 ET2, 2015 HD Road Glide Special
Joined: Thu, 19 Jan 2012 07:14:28 +0000
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Ossessionato
73 & 74 Rally, 76 ET3, 80 P200, 06 PX150, 61 Ser 2, 65 Silver Special, 90 V5N 50, 01 ET2, 2015 HD Road Glide Special
Joined: Thu, 19 Jan 2012 07:14:28 +0000
Posts: 4926
Location: Oceanside, CA
Fri, 11 Jan 2013 01:51:34 +0000 quote
When you grounded out that yellow wire It should have boosted the voltage going to your regulator (the other yellow wire). The results that I got when I did that on my 2 74 Rallys were 12+ volts AC. That should go to your regulator/ rectifier and get clipped down.

Only thing I can think of is maybe something grounds out when the engine RPM's vibrate the bike enough? My headlight kind of did that before I re-wired it (headset pinchbolt had cut the wires)

If you have a volt meter, MAKE SURE it's on AC voltage, test the voltage on the yellow wires that connect to the regulator. Ignore the brown, red, and pink. See what kind of input you get going into it and let us know.
Fri, 11 Jan 2013 02:12:56 +0000

Hooked
74 Rally 200
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Posts: 140
Location: Sonoma
 
Hooked
74 Rally 200
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Location: Sonoma
Fri, 11 Jan 2013 02:12:56 +0000 quote
c.stewart2009 wrote:
Any ideas/suggestions? I'm figuring it can't be that easy, so must be doing something wrong. Do I need to convert my lights to 12V? All I did was flip flop the far yellow wire, and the far black wire.
I have a limited understanding of this stuff, but I'll take a whack at it...

You still have the Regulator/Rectifier hooked up. The rectifier part of that box converts the AC electricity coming off your stator to DC electricity, so that a battery (which is DC) can be used. By "grounding" one of your AC wires to the body of the bike (yellow wire to black wire in the junction box) you've changed how the electricity flows through the rectifier and you're shorting it.

The way it's hooked up on your bike, the bulbs are getting power for half an AC cycle and the entire charging system is shorted for the other half cycle.

To fix this, you'll need to ditch the original R/R (keep it! just take it off the bike) and instal an AC 6-volt regulator without a rectifier.
Fri, 11 Jan 2013 02:36:38 +0000

Molto Verboso
1974 Rally 200
Joined: Tue, 19 Sep 2006 03:59:09 +0000
Posts: 1775
Location: Heading north on Forever Street
 
Molto Verboso
1974 Rally 200
Joined: Tue, 19 Sep 2006 03:59:09 +0000
Posts: 1775
Location: Heading north on Forever Street
Fri, 11 Jan 2013 02:36:38 +0000 quote
I have built several Cree Stars with different optics (narrow, wide and elliptical) @ ~ 100 lumens - enough for bicycles and slow Burning Man mutant vehicles. I use 1" copper end caps for a heatsink and arctic silver thermal epoxy to attach the Star.

Some of the newer CREE devices are in the 700-1000 lumen range. These use multiple LEDs in the same package. 6VDC isn't much to supply enough forward voltage drop on many of these devices, but it is also possible to run them in parallel. We shall see!
rob hodge wrote:
Oscillator wrote:
Next, looking to experiment with some of the new-new CREE LED stars with a constant-current driver and suitable optics. That might provide a good low-current headlight - if the lumens are enough. TBD.
problem won't be the lumens, it'll be the beam pattern. unless you get a good lens in front of it it may be very widely dispersed.

a very bad thing, as the road in front of you will get ton more light then you are used to, but less light goes further down the road so your distance visibility will be less.

result? you'll see less further down the road and be more overconfident.

that and heat. LED's of this magnitude don't like heat one bit.
Fri, 11 Jan 2013 03:22:50 +0000

Hooked
'74 rally 200
Joined: Fri, 15 Jun 2012 05:38:08 +0000
Posts: 101
Location: sacto, ca
 
Hooked
'74 rally 200
Joined: Fri, 15 Jun 2012 05:38:08 +0000
Posts: 101
Location: sacto, ca
Fri, 11 Jan 2013 03:22:50 +0000 quote
I have no idea what you are talking about Oscillator.
Fri, 11 Jan 2013 04:15:08 +0000

Molto Verboso
1974 Rally 200
Joined: Tue, 19 Sep 2006 03:59:09 +0000
Posts: 1775
Location: Heading north on Forever Street
 
Molto Verboso
1974 Rally 200
Joined: Tue, 19 Sep 2006 03:59:09 +0000
Posts: 1775
Location: Heading north on Forever Street
Fri, 11 Jan 2013 04:15:08 +0000 quote
All LEDs have a "forward voltage drop", meaning around 2.9-3.2 VDC to turn on the LED. Many of the of the new 3-up LED packages (or Stars) would need 3 x ~3VDC (~9VDC) to turn them on.

There are constant current drivers (Bucktoot, BuckBuck) that can provide a constant current to an LED without burning it out, but need a supply voltage >= the forward voltage drop of the LED package. If you have 12VDC, no prob, you can series connect 3 devices (or a single 3-in-1 device) - since the total fwd drop is <12VDC.

Since these drivers supply constant current, it is possible to wire LEDs in parallel to get more lumens. Also to facilitate high beam/low beam. That is the approach I am thinking about.

If it works out, a decent headlight would use maybe 6-12 watts instead of 35 watts.

cheers!
c.stewart2009 wrote:
I have no idea what you are talking about Oscillator.
Sun, 13 Jan 2013 02:02:31 +0000

Hooked
'74 rally 200
Joined: Fri, 15 Jun 2012 05:38:08 +0000
Posts: 101
Location: sacto, ca
 
Hooked
'74 rally 200
Joined: Fri, 15 Jun 2012 05:38:08 +0000
Posts: 101
Location: sacto, ca
Sun, 13 Jan 2013 02:02:31 +0000 quote
How would I wire up a 6v AC 3post regulator?
Sun, 13 Jan 2013 17:49:34 +0000

Ossessionato
a lambretta or two
Joined: Sat, 31 Mar 2012 20:32:10 +0000
Posts: 3724
Location: San Francisco
 
Ossessionato
a lambretta or two
Joined: Sat, 31 Mar 2012 20:32:10 +0000
Posts: 3724
Location: San Francisco
Sun, 13 Jan 2013 17:49:34 +0000 quote
If you drop by my shop next weekend I'll show you how I did this. Just give me a call.
Sun, 13 Jan 2013 19:07:01 +0000

Hooked
'74 rally 200
Joined: Fri, 15 Jun 2012 05:38:08 +0000
Posts: 101
Location: sacto, ca
 
Hooked
'74 rally 200
Joined: Fri, 15 Jun 2012 05:38:08 +0000
Posts: 101
Location: sacto, ca
Sun, 13 Jan 2013 19:07:01 +0000 quote
thanks, that would be great. but i need your number.
Tue, 22 Jan 2013 22:49:34 +0000

Hooked
'74 rally 200
Joined: Fri, 15 Jun 2012 05:38:08 +0000
Posts: 101
Location: sacto, ca
 
Hooked
'74 rally 200
Joined: Fri, 15 Jun 2012 05:38:08 +0000
Posts: 101
Location: sacto, ca
Tue, 22 Jan 2013 22:49:34 +0000 quote
went to visit SFvsr in SF this past weekend. he explained this easy convertion so well, i was able to have it done that evening. now i livin battery free!! gonna try and convert the horn next. almost done with the rally project. i also finally jetted it correctly, so ive been able to drive it and boy is it fun. here's photo's of the conversion.
Thu, 24 Jan 2013 17:10:18 +0000

Ossessionato
2009 MP3-500 aka Red Dog 2007 Vespa 250ie
Joined: Sat, 17 Oct 2009 00:35:12 +0000
Posts: 2111
Location: Southern Oregon Coast
 
Ossessionato
2009 MP3-500 aka Red Dog 2007 Vespa 250ie
Joined: Sat, 17 Oct 2009 00:35:12 +0000
Posts: 2111
Location: Southern Oregon Coast
Thu, 24 Jan 2013 17:10:18 +0000 quote
OK guys, I've been reading this thread from the beginning and the amount of information and support from members is impressive to say the least. I've not had the privilege of riding a vintage scooter let alone owning one but I have to admit there may be one in the future for me. [ I don't count my brief relationship with a new '05 Stella last summer ]

So here's my question: Didn't the P200 [Rally] come standard from the factory with a 6-volt electrical system that worked, headlights, turn signals, etc.? If that's the case isn't it possible to restore it back to original specs so that it works?

Just curious and include my thanks for any reply to this.

Best,

LL75
Thu, 24 Jan 2013 17:36:30 +0000

Ossessionato
a lambretta or two
Joined: Sat, 31 Mar 2012 20:32:10 +0000
Posts: 3724
Location: San Francisco
 
Ossessionato
a lambretta or two
Joined: Sat, 31 Mar 2012 20:32:10 +0000
Posts: 3724
Location: San Francisco
Thu, 24 Jan 2013 17:36:30 +0000 quote
larrylarry75 wrote:
OK guys, I've been reading this thread from the beginning and the amount of information and support from members is impressive to say the least. I've not had the privilege of riding a vintage scooter let alone owning one but I have to admit there may be one in the future for me.

So here's my question: Didn't the P200 [Rally] come standard from the factory with a 6-volt electrical system that worked, headlights, turn signals, etc.? If that's the case isn't it possible to restore it back to original specs so that it works?

Just curious and include my thanks for any reply to this.

Best,

LL75
The 6v battery system on those Femsa Rally models was lame. It would barely charge the battery. The later model Rally and P200 were 12v and had no problems charging and running a battery. However, usually the turn signals are all messed up by the time the scooter gets to you and it is easier to just omit them.
Thu, 24 Jan 2013 18:30:07 +0000

Hooked
Piaggio X9 500, 1974 Rally 200, 2005 Big Ruckus, 2006 Big Ruckus
Joined: Tue, 06 Jan 2009 18:13:01 +0000
Posts: 469
Location: Sacramento, CA
 
Hooked
Piaggio X9 500, 1974 Rally 200, 2005 Big Ruckus, 2006 Big Ruckus
Joined: Tue, 06 Jan 2009 18:13:01 +0000
Posts: 469
Location: Sacramento, CA
Thu, 24 Jan 2013 18:30:07 +0000 quote
larrylarry75 wrote:
OK guys, I've been reading this thread from the beginning and the amount of information and support from members is impressive to say the least. I've not had the privilege of riding a vintage scooter let alone owning one but I have to admit there may be one in the future for me. [ I don't count my brief relationship with a new '05 Stella last summer ]

So here's my question: Didn't the P200 [Rally] come standard from the factory with a 6-volt electrical system that worked, headlights, turn signals, etc.? If that's the case isn't it possible to restore it back to original specs so that it works?

Just curious and include my thanks for any reply to this.

Best,

LL75
That is exactly what I did to mine. When I got it the battery was removed and the wiring was tied up. Luckily they didn't cut any of the wires. I just reinstalled the battery and got a stock rectifier/regulator. I put the turn signals back on and now all the lights are working. The headlight is bright and does not dim when I step on the brake.
Thu, 24 Jan 2013 19:05:51 +0000

Ossessionato
2009 MP3-500 aka Red Dog 2007 Vespa 250ie
Joined: Sat, 17 Oct 2009 00:35:12 +0000
Posts: 2111
Location: Southern Oregon Coast
 
Ossessionato
2009 MP3-500 aka Red Dog 2007 Vespa 250ie
Joined: Sat, 17 Oct 2009 00:35:12 +0000
Posts: 2111
Location: Southern Oregon Coast
Thu, 24 Jan 2013 19:05:51 +0000 quote
Two divergent answers coming from different approaches; each seems valid enough so thanks to both of you. I think I'd try to stick with the original plan if at all possible but it's always nice to know there are alternative solutions. In any event I'm sitting here with a nice GTS250 parked in the garage which puts me a long ways away from the issues faced by you folks. That may not last too long though...[shh...she's within earshot....]

Thanks again,

LL75
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