Modern Vespa

Low beam = headlight one, high beam = head light number two, passing mode push momentary switch and hold = both head lights on as long as you hold the switch in the on position.
Has anyone reconfigured the headlights so both come on & a high beam set up is a different config., than left wink right wink, & if so, how would you go about relays & wiring & switching.

Second inquiry, in endeavoring to add a saddle heater (removable) , a windshield wiper using a marine type (only when using the winter comfort shield,) mounting additional lighting for "fog," and "driving,"on the fehling crash bars, [ radio has been solved w/ one imbedded in rear view mirrors ]
How can I figure out when I need to be looking at adding in a relay in addition to in line fuses and how can I find information (book or internet,) on wiring, voltage, resistance, impedance and anything else a green horn might need.

It's been done many a time. There are three solutions.
1. Re-wire the connector to the switch. This was my solution from years ago - it works but has since been proven to be overcomplicated.
http://manuals.wotmeworry.org.uk/Bothlamps/
2. Bend a piece of paperclip to short out the two middle connections on the switch. Not recommended by me, as it puts all the current through one fuse.
Scooter work today and secret stealth mod
3. Simplest of all - remove the spring that makes the switch momentary in the passing mode. Leaves all options open, but provides the functionality required.
Headlights on my 400 (Post 1451418) I'm afraid this isn't the right place for a comprehensive enough course to get an electrical 'greenhorn' to the stage where they can work stuff like that out and get it right every time.

However if you ask specific questions, you might get good answers.

You will get most of the spec for current from the device or their packaging. Blue Sea Systems has a great tool for figuring out the correct wire size to use at:

http://dc.circuitwizard.bluesea.com/

You can do a Google search on marine or boat wiring and turn up lots of info. I would definitely use marine-grade wire and components on a scooter as so much of it can get wet...

Nigel Calder has a fantastic book (that is probably overkill unless you also own boats) that covers DC wiring in all of its minutiae:

http://www.amazon.com/Boatowners-Mechanical-Electrical-Manual-Essential/dp/0071432388/ref=la_B000AQTEW4_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1353443116&sr=1-1

Cheers!

John

Thanks John,
I -do - build boats....... Cedar Strip
Am in the middle of a " Jericho Bay Lobster Skiff,"
the book should be a big help....

Thanks Again !

You're so welcome!

My copy is one of my favorite books and never very far away. For the last few months, it has resided in the "reading room."



Wow! I'll bet it will be pretty when you are done; that's quite a project! Please post a pic or two when you get a chance...

Cheers!

John

Been trying to figure out if I can come up w/ a kind of trailer to pull w/ my MP3 400 that I can pull my 17.5 ft Redbird cedar strip canoe to go fishing with.
Weight is about 70 lbs. I can lift and portage, but wouldn't it be cool to see an MP3 motoring down the road pulling a boat. !

Afraid the finished weight of the Jericho Bay Lobster Skiff though light weight, with a Yamaha 15 hspwr, would be to heavy for a bike.

If you look up the boat you'll note the prototype was made heavy & the fiberglass technique required paint.
If I'm going to use cedar strip construction, I'm not going to cover up the beautiful wood. Rather than 1/2 " white cedar, I'm working w/ 1/4"red cedar. No extra thick glass rove or matting, but the same treatment as in canoe building. Frames at 12" intervals and floors to stiffen the hull. Rather than plank seating I've laid out a center console format. Overall weight should be 2/3 to 1/2 that of the original prototype. Prototype used 20 hsp but I'm using a lighter 15 hsp.

The details I've worked out w/ a naval architect to make sure strength and stability is not lost. The goal is to create a skiff I can fish out of for salmon out of Washington or Oregon, or King mackerel off Destin or Pensecola, and can survive the turbulence of the inter coastal water way.

I looked it up right away... very pretty open skiff! Did you get the plans from woodenboats? I've always loved the look of wooden boats; occasionally I go to the Lake Tahoe Chris-Craft get-together as a friend used to show his boat there. So much work to keep them up, though... I think your approach to fiberglass will pay off. Those canoes manage to be stunning...

As for a trailer with the MP3... I bet you would get really good at changing the belt and front brake pads!

The problem with CVT belt systems is their life is so load dependent. When you take a heavy scoot like the MP3 and put a heavy rider on it you're already asking too much... then throw in hills and the load of pulling a trailer away from a stop... let's just say I wouldn't recommend it. You could mitigate the effects a bit by going to really light sliders and a fuzzy washer (in effect giving you a lower gear) but I doubt it would be enough.

I needed a boat to fulfill the same mission, but I have two additional constraints: none of your woodworking skills, and a wife who won't tolerate an open boat. In the end I went with this 15'11" C-Dory Cruiser last year:

Cheers!

John