OP
UTC

Hooked
Joined: UTC
Posts: 242
 
Hooked
Joined: UTC
Posts: 242
UTC quote
Havent even received the thing in the mail yet, so I don't know what's coming. Any advice on the project? Can I do it with the engine in?
@vader19 avatar
UTC

Mr. Clean
P,SUPER,V90, 50 Special
Joined: UTC
Posts: 10205
Location: This is't my locker!
 
Mr. Clean
@vader19 avatar
P,SUPER,V90, 50 Special
Joined: UTC
Posts: 10205
Location: This is't my locker!
UTC quote
Hey SX.. yes you can do it with the motor in the bike.. you'll need to undo the rear shock mount at the motor so you can tilt the motor down in the back (cylinder pointing more upwards) to get the fins of the cylinder to clear the frame. (I take the rear hub/tire off and I use my harbor freight lift to lift the rear of the bike. You'll need to disconnect any wires, fuel line and cables that are going to get tugged on...

Then you can pull your old cylinder and piston off, take the circlips out of the piston, push the pin out, pull the piston off, put the new one on, and install your new kit (oil the piston and inside of the cylinder).. base gasket, piston etc. Then lift the rear of the motor up, slip the bolt into the rear shock mount and put everything back that you undid.

OR.. if you don't like working like that, you can pull the motor out and do it on a bench.. and be comfortable!

Once you torque the head down, run the bike up to good temperature, a good heat cycle and then re-torque the head nuts.

I hope that makes some sense.
Cheers
@sfvsr avatar
UTC

Ossessionato
a lambretta or two
Joined: UTC
Posts: 3724
Location: San Francisco
 
Ossessionato
@sfvsr avatar
a lambretta or two
Joined: UTC
Posts: 3724
Location: San Francisco
UTC quote
Another option is to remove exhaust from cylinder, remove cylinder shroud, remove head, remove all cylinder studs, put the piston at the top of the stroke, lift up the cylinder about a 1/4 inch, and then turn cylinder clockwise until the fins clear the frame and then gently turn the flywheel til the piston is at bottom of stroke. Remove cylinder.

No need to lower engine, disconnect shock, remove carburetor and air box, etc.
@jackson85 avatar
UTC

Ossessionato
T5 Pole Position, T for thoroughbred
Joined: UTC
Posts: 4631
Location: Dublin
 
Ossessionato
@jackson85 avatar
T5 Pole Position, T for thoroughbred
Joined: UTC
Posts: 4631
Location: Dublin
UTC quote
I would use the sfvsr method. have done it in the past. lazy man's method
@vader19 avatar
UTC

Mr. Clean
P,SUPER,V90, 50 Special
Joined: UTC
Posts: 10205
Location: This is't my locker!
 
Mr. Clean
@vader19 avatar
P,SUPER,V90, 50 Special
Joined: UTC
Posts: 10205
Location: This is't my locker!
UTC quote
jackson85 wrote:
I would use the sfvsr method. have done it in the past. lazy man's method
I don't think it's the lazy method at all... I just have a tendency to take the long road.
OP
UTC

Hooked
Joined: UTC
Posts: 242
 
Hooked
Joined: UTC
Posts: 242
UTC quote
Sweet, thanks both for your input. If anyone has anything else I should do, not do or otherwise watch out for I'd appreciate the heads up.
@vader19 avatar
UTC

Mr. Clean
P,SUPER,V90, 50 Special
Joined: UTC
Posts: 10205
Location: This is't my locker!
 
Mr. Clean
@vader19 avatar
P,SUPER,V90, 50 Special
Joined: UTC
Posts: 10205
Location: This is't my locker!
UTC quote
I'll add to my long approach! no seriously, just take out the studs.. and you might want to take a small file and chamfer the ports (windows) in the cylinder to make sure there're no sharp edges for the piston rings to catch on.. always a good idea.. this one is simple too (I promise)
UTC

nothing at all
Joined: UTC
Posts: 9656
Location: westla
 
nothing at all
Joined: UTC
Posts: 9656
Location: westla
UTC quote
In the past when I have gotten a vespa project, one of the first things I do is remove the engine entirely, which makes the second part of this even better.

When I remount the motor I put the king pin in port to starboard instead of the starboard to port.

That way when I want to remove the topend, I just remove the nut on the pin and back the pin out about a 1/4" and wala........

the motor will tilt out about an inch which is all you need.

Just a different method.
@v_oodoo avatar
UTC

Style Maven
'74 50s x3 '87 PK125XL '92 PK50XLS Plurimatic - & - '58 AllState '68 Sprint '66(?) Super125 '72 DanMotor Super150 and '04 Bajaj LML hybrid
Joined: UTC
Posts: 9843
Location: seattle/athens
 
Style Maven
@v_oodoo avatar
'74 50s x3 '87 PK125XL '92 PK50XLS Plurimatic - & - '58 AllState '68 Sprint '66(?) Super125 '72 DanMotor Super150 and '04 Bajaj LML hybrid
Joined: UTC
Posts: 9843
Location: seattle/athens
UTC quote
jimmyb865 wrote:
..
the motor will tilt out about an inch which is all you need.
I see what you did there. Genius! Clap emoticon

In fact you could just DO this BEFORE you do your top end! Just use a long enough piece of steel rod to keep motor located, then slip out thru the hole while you swap that long motor mount bolt end for end.
DoubleGood Design banner

Modern Vespa is the premier site for modern Vespa and Piaggio scooters. Vespa GTS300, GTS250, GTV, GT200, LX150, LXS, ET4, ET2, MP3, Fuoco, Elettrica and more.

Buy Me A Coffee
 

Shop on Amazon with Modern Vespa

Modern Vespa is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com


All Content Copyright 2005-2024 by Modern Vespa.
All Rights Reserved.


[ Time: 0.0128s ][ Queries: 3 (0.0049s) ][ live ][ 318 ][ ThingOne ]