@socalguy avatar
UTC

bodgemaster
63 GL, 76 Super (x2), 74 Primavera (x2), 79 P200, 06 Fly 150
Joined: UTC
Posts: 7107
Location: So Cal
 
bodgemaster
@socalguy avatar
63 GL, 76 Super (x2), 74 Primavera (x2), 79 P200, 06 Fly 150
Joined: UTC
Posts: 7107
Location: So Cal
UTC quote
Dang Chris, I thought it was you and sent $10,000!
@birdsnest avatar
UTC

Not So Moderator
VNB VSC 09C VMA VSX - vbc vmb
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8048
Location: Hustletown, TX
 
Not So Moderator
@birdsnest avatar
VNB VSC 09C VMA VSX - vbc vmb
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8048
Location: Hustletown, TX
UTC quote
Looking into the spammy spam spam.

Sit tight.... eat your veggies... more soon.
@aviator47 avatar
UTC

Moderator
2006 PX 150 & Malossi Kitted Malaguti Yesterday (Wife's)
Joined: UTC
Posts: 12955
Location: Paros Island, Greece
 
Moderator
@aviator47 avatar
2006 PX 150 & Malossi Kitted Malaguti Yesterday (Wife's)
Joined: UTC
Posts: 12955
Location: Paros Island, Greece
UTC quote
Vader19 wrote:
I changed my password.. Damn spammer/hackers..
Compromised email token (address) from a post you submitted from your email account. I've cancelled the token. Possibly all your addressees from that account (or device) have been compromised.
@vader19 avatar
UTC

Mr. Clean
P,SUPER,V90, 50 Special
Joined: UTC
Posts: 10205
Location: This is't my locker!
 
Mr. Clean
@vader19 avatar
P,SUPER,V90, 50 Special
Joined: UTC
Posts: 10205
Location: This is't my locker!
UTC quote
Aviator47 wrote:
Vader19 wrote:
I changed my password.. Damn spammer/hackers..
Compromised email token (address) from a post you submitted from your email account. I've cancelled the token. Possibly all your addressees from that account (or device) have been compromised.
Thank you Al.
@ginch avatar
UTC

Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8622
Location: Victoria, Australia
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
@ginch avatar
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8622
Location: Victoria, Australia
UTC quote
Re: rear hub nut off trick (side of the road,on you own)
Bluecati wrote:
Locate a donor rim or use your spare,
Remove the rubber tyre and tube(hardest bit sometimes)

Put a screwdriver up through the hole where the valve would normally go.

Bolt it back on the hub and when you go to loosen the centre nut the screw driver/rim will rotate and then the screw driver will act on the swing bar part of the engine ...solid..safe. and locks it in place
so you can go hard on the nut
Its a standard piece in my shed now. I got an old rim and welded a bar up through the valve hole.

Just bolt it on like any wheel when the nut needs attention

Hmmmm On long hauls you could even just carry a bolt of the correct diameter with two nuts.
It necessitate removing the rubber but means you can remove the rear hub by your self

..and on the side of the road in the middle of no where

Great tip Bluecati.
@ginch avatar
UTC

Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8622
Location: Victoria, Australia
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
@ginch avatar
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8622
Location: Victoria, Australia
UTC quote
Reface carb seat
SFvsr wrote:
Use a q-tip mounted in a drill. Coat the q-tip head with some fine valve paste.
⬆️    About 27 days elapsed    ⬇️
@ginch avatar
UTC

Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8622
Location: Victoria, Australia
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
@ginch avatar
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8622
Location: Victoria, Australia
UTC quote
Pre-P cruciform locking washer
SFvsr wrote:
In the event you can't find a quick source for that washer, go to the electrical section of a good hardware store. There will be a section devoted to repairing lamps and electrical stuff. The thinner brassed washers are a perfect fit. Don't use any SAE or metric stuff because the thickness of the washer will shove the selector rod into the wrong distance from the cruciform.
http://www.sip-scootershop.com/en/products/locking++washer+selector+rod+_87601000
@joshzingzing avatar
UTC

Veni, Vidi, Posti
px200 cutdown,px180,px150. Puch SR. Puch scooterette
Joined: UTC
Posts: 5109
Location: west aus
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
@joshzingzing avatar
px200 cutdown,px180,px150. Puch SR. Puch scooterette
Joined: UTC
Posts: 5109
Location: west aus
UTC quote
violent femmes
Pull your fuel line through with whipper cord in the middle
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
@shipscat avatar
UTC

Hooked
vespa 125 vnb1t
Joined: UTC
Posts: 391
Location: antibes , france
 
Hooked
@shipscat avatar
vespa 125 vnb1t
Joined: UTC
Posts: 391
Location: antibes , france
UTC quote
engine leak tester
an old spark plug body with a tube brazed in and an O ring to seal
a 1 bar pressure gauge , t piece , rubber plumbing fitting with a polyester resin plug with an old inner-tube valve glued in , bicycle pump , plastic tubing , soapy water in a spray bottle to locate leaks
optional mity-vac pump , i threaded the inside of the fitting to take the bicycle tyre inflator tube
when using the bicycle pump go slowly
use rubber from inner tube to seal off the carb inlet
with this set up you can test small frame motors as well


when testing the piston should be at the bottom of its stroke
DO NOT PRESSURIZE OVER 7 PSI OR 1/2 BAR over this you run a risk of flipping the lip on the crank seals

when i've used this tool ive found you hear a leak before pressure builds

simples
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
@chandlerman avatar
UTC

Lucky
76 Sprint V, 63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella, 66 Smallstate
Joined: UTC
Posts: 9525
Location: Nashville

146 Days Since Last Explosion
 
Lucky
@chandlerman avatar
76 Sprint V, 63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella, 66 Smallstate
Joined: UTC
Posts: 9525
Location: Nashville

146 Days Since Last Explosion
UTC quote
Retroguy wrote:
Sitting the scooter on puppy pads before I unplug the fuel line from the carb and remove the tank.
Puppy pads are an awesome idea. I've tried all manner of things to catch drippy fluids, especially fuel, with no luck in the past.

And, for better or worse, I've got an elderly cat that usually pees in front of the litter box, so I have them around the house all the time, too.
⬆️    About 2 months elapsed    ⬇️
@retroguy avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
1974 V90
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1403
Location: Rhode Island USA
 
Molto Verboso
@retroguy avatar
1974 V90
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1403
Location: Rhode Island USA
UTC quote
Maybe this has been done. I hate snaking wires because all the loose wires and ends get caught up. I usually use electrical tape to smooth things down but then it is a pain to peel it off. This time I used plumbers tape. It held things tight but peeled off real easy when I was done.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
@ginch avatar
UTC

Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8622
Location: Victoria, Australia
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
@ginch avatar
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8622
Location: Victoria, Australia
UTC quote
Retroguy wrote:
Maybe this has been done. I hate snaking wires because all the loose wires and ends get caught up. I usually use electrical tape to smooth things down but then it is a pain to peel it off. This time I used plumbers tape. It held things tight but peeled off real easy when I was done.
I like it! I generally use plenty of talcum powder as well as (electrical) tape... it "lubricates" without getting greasy.
OP
@v_oodoo avatar
UTC

Style Maven
'74 50s x3 '87 PK125XL '92 PK50XLS Plurimatic - & - '58 AllState '68 Sprint '66(?) Super125 and '72 DanMotor Super150
Joined: UTC
Posts: 9549
Location: seattle/athens
 
Style Maven
@v_oodoo avatar
'74 50s x3 '87 PK125XL '92 PK50XLS Plurimatic - & - '58 AllState '68 Sprint '66(?) Super125 and '72 DanMotor Super150
Joined: UTC
Posts: 9549
Location: seattle/athens
UTC quote
^^^ Good one. Another way if you have an assortment of heat shrink tubing, is to use the snuggest size you have, then just shrink it tight towards the end to grip the bundle. After you pull it, cut off the shrunk section and slip off the rest to use again.

Then I use a dry teflon spray on the whole harness that really helps it slide in.

OK RG, now you are obviously doing something on your project so now I think you need to update your build thread . With pics!
⬆️    About 1 month elapsed    ⬇️
@ginch avatar
UTC

Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8622
Location: Victoria, Australia
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
@ginch avatar
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8622
Location: Victoria, Australia
UTC quote
Running new cables
ScooterRaton wrote:
modkuo wrote:
I was changing clutch cable and outer is totally fubar. so wanted to try the "connect new outer and string through" using Picture hanging wire method.

1. that totally sucked. wire bent and kinked.

2. found a great solution -- grass trimmer string! I think this has been mentioned before by others here but wanted to confirm.

it worked killer! threaded through the P like buttah!
I've been using trimmer line (blue) for years. Another trick you can do with it is go through the legshield spare mount bolt hole to "make the turn".

Take a long piece and go through one hole up to the horn and up to the headset. Take the other end, go into the same hole, and down into the tank area.

Grab both ends tight and yank. The loop will pop into the bolt hole and you have a fish line from the headset to the tank area.


Great tips guys!
UTC

Addicted
Joined: UTC
Posts: 903
 
Addicted
Joined: UTC
Posts: 903
UTC quote
I've been mulling this in my head since I had to reuse a head gasket since I could't get a new one, but could't anti seize work as a very good head sealant? The grease base's drop point is 1600*f and resistant to solvents, and even without the grease, all the aluminum, copper, and graphite powder would still seal very well. Plus all that metal powder would be very condusive to heat transfer from the head to cylinder. And it's commonly used on spark plug threads. All the spring steel head gaskets on small engines I've seen seem to be coated in a metalic coating that bears a striking resemblance to dried anti seize.
@veloce_vulture avatar
UTC

Hooked
Tuk Tuk.
Joined: UTC
Posts: 448
Location: Hawaii
 
Hooked
@veloce_vulture avatar
Tuk Tuk.
Joined: UTC
Posts: 448
Location: Hawaii
UTC quote
Neurotic-Hapi-Snak wrote:
I've been mulling this in my head since I had to reuse a head gasket since I could't get a new one, but could't anti seize work as a very good head sealant? The grease base's drop point is 1600*f and resistant to solvents, and even without the grease, all the aluminum, copper, and graphite powder would still seal very well. Plus all that metal powder would be very condusive to heat transfer from the head to cylinder. And it's commonly used on spark plug threads. All the spring steel head gaskets on small engines I've seen seem to be coated in a metalic coating that bears a striking resemblance to dried anti seize.
"Think" compression is going blow past anything that isn't solid.
Metal head gaskets can be annealed and reused. Also, if your careful you can ad spring tension back to the gasket.
@niz76 avatar
UTC

Hooked
1980 Vespa P200E
Joined: UTC
Posts: 199
Location: Tampa, FL
 
Hooked
@niz76 avatar
1980 Vespa P200E
Joined: UTC
Posts: 199
Location: Tampa, FL
UTC quote
Veloce Vulture wrote:
Neurotic-Hapi-Snak wrote:
I've been mulling this in my head since I had to reuse a head gasket since I could't get a new one, but could't anti seize work as a very good head sealant? The grease base's drop point is 1600*f and resistant to solvents, and even without the grease, all the aluminum, copper, and graphite powder would still seal very well. Plus all that metal powder would be very condusive to heat transfer from the head to cylinder. And it's commonly used on spark plug threads. All the spring steel head gaskets on small engines I've seen seem to be coated in a metalic coating that bears a striking resemblance to dried anti seize.
"Think" compression is going blow past anything that isn't solid.
Metal head gaskets can be annealed and reused. Also, if your careful you can ad spring tension back to the gasket.
Plenty of 2t builders have been using copper spray to delete/eliminate the head gasket. There's many reasons why one might want to eliminate a head gasket and use copper spray only such as tightening up the squish, raising compression, etc. It works great!

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text
@veloce_vulture avatar
UTC

Hooked
Tuk Tuk.
Joined: UTC
Posts: 448
Location: Hawaii
 
Hooked
@veloce_vulture avatar
Tuk Tuk.
Joined: UTC
Posts: 448
Location: Hawaii
UTC quote
niz76 wrote:
Veloce Vulture wrote:
Neurotic-Hapi-Snak wrote:
I've been mulling this in my head since I had to reuse a head gasket since I could't get a new one, but could't anti seize work as a very good head sealant? The grease base's drop point is 1600*f and resistant to solvents, and even without the grease, all the aluminum, copper, and graphite powder would still seal very well. Plus all that metal powder would be very condusive to heat transfer from the head to cylinder. And it's commonly used on spark plug threads. All the spring steel head gaskets on small engines I've seen seem to be coated in a metalic coating that bears a striking resemblance to dried anti seize.
"Think" compression is going blow past anything that isn't solid.
Metal head gaskets can be annealed and reused. Also, if your careful you can ad spring tension back to the gasket.
Plenty of 2t builders have been using copper spray to delete/eliminate the head gasket. There's many reasons why one might want to eliminate a head gasket and use copper spray only such as tightening up the squish, raising compression, etc. It works great!

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text
that's fine, I've milled Vespa heads myself to raise compression, but I still put back a gasket if required. I've built engines that don't even require head gaskets. So it's a wash.
@scooterraton avatar
UTC

Ossessionato
2 - Many
Joined: UTC
Posts: 3164
Location: Boca Raton, Florida
 
Ossessionato
@scooterraton avatar
2 - Many
Joined: UTC
Posts: 3164
Location: Boca Raton, Florida
UTC quote
External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text
UTC

Hooked
GS160
Joined: UTC
Posts: 308
Location: Åland
 
Hooked
GS160
Joined: UTC
Posts: 308
Location: Åland
UTC quote
[quote="Neurotic-Hapi-Snak"]I've been mulling this in my head since I had to reuse a head gasket since I could't get a new one, but could't anti seize work as a very good head sealant?

Sorry for O T but Anti-Seize sounds like a fuel additive quite a few of us could have use for..
UTC

Addicted
Joined: UTC
Posts: 903
 
Addicted
Joined: UTC
Posts: 903
UTC quote
I'd usually use the copper head gasket sealant, like I have in the past even on new gaskets, but I'm in Japan. The only place near me that carries gasket maker/sealant is Rider's Stand and Kohnan Pro. Both have RTV including the copper high temp. Rider's Stand also has a gasoline resistant gasket sealant, from what I could understand from the label, but it's only good to 180c.
@veloce_vulture avatar
UTC

Hooked
Tuk Tuk.
Joined: UTC
Posts: 448
Location: Hawaii
 
Hooked
@veloce_vulture avatar
Tuk Tuk.
Joined: UTC
Posts: 448
Location: Hawaii
UTC quote
It was mentioned in here to use acid to remove alluminum from cylinder wall of a soft seize, for anyone not wanting mess with nasty acid. 400 grit wet dry sandpaper can do a wonderful job with a little wd40 or something similar.
Love this thread btw, read it all this morning.
@ginch avatar
UTC

Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8622
Location: Victoria, Australia
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
@ginch avatar
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8622
Location: Victoria, Australia
UTC quote
Veloce Vulture wrote:
It was mentioned in here to use acid to remove alluminum from cylinder wall of a soft seize, for anyone not wanting mess with nasty acid. 400 grit wet dry sandpaper can do a wonderful job with a little wd40 or something similar.
Love this thread btw, read it all this morning.
I've used acid on a cast iron cylinder with good results, and I have a Pinasco 177 I'm about to have a look at. How can you use wet & dry without damaging the surrounding area? Sounds tricky.
@veloce_vulture avatar
UTC

Hooked
Tuk Tuk.
Joined: UTC
Posts: 448
Location: Hawaii
 
Hooked
@veloce_vulture avatar
Tuk Tuk.
Joined: UTC
Posts: 448
Location: Hawaii
UTC quote
Ginch wrote:
Veloce Vulture wrote:
It was mentioned in here to use acid to remove alluminum from cylinder wall of a soft seize, for anyone not wanting mess with nasty acid. 400 grit wet dry sandpaper can do a wonderful job with a little wd40 or something similar.
Love this thread btw, read it all this morning.
I've used acid on a cast iron cylinder with good results, and I have a Pinasco 177 I'm about to have a look at. How can you use wet & dry without damaging the surrounding area? Sounds tricky.
Alluminum is much softer than the surrounding cast iron it's embedded on. 400 grit is going to rough up the cast iron a bit, but that will work in the rings at the same time.
@ginch avatar
UTC

Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8622
Location: Victoria, Australia
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
@ginch avatar
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8622
Location: Victoria, Australia
UTC quote
Veloce Vulture wrote:
Ginch wrote:
Veloce Vulture wrote:
It was mentioned in here to use acid to remove alluminum from cylinder wall of a soft seize, for anyone not wanting mess with nasty acid. 400 grit wet dry sandpaper can do a wonderful job with a little wd40 or something similar.
Love this thread btw, read it all this morning.
I've used acid on a cast iron cylinder with good results, and I have a Pinasco 177 I'm about to have a look at. How can you use wet & dry without damaging the surrounding area? Sounds tricky.
Alluminum is much softer than the surrounding cast iron it's embedded on. 400 grit is going to rough up the cast iron a bit, but that will work in the rings at the same time.
Sorry! I should have mentioned that it's an aluminium/nicasil cylinder.
@veloce_vulture avatar
UTC

Hooked
Tuk Tuk.
Joined: UTC
Posts: 448
Location: Hawaii
 
Hooked
@veloce_vulture avatar
Tuk Tuk.
Joined: UTC
Posts: 448
Location: Hawaii
UTC quote
Ginch wrote:
Veloce Vulture wrote:
Ginch wrote:
Veloce Vulture wrote:
It was mentioned in here to use acid to remove alluminum from cylinder wall of a soft seize, for anyone not wanting mess with nasty acid. 400 grit wet dry sandpaper can do a wonderful job with a little wd40 or something similar.
Love this thread btw, read it all this morning.
I've used acid on a cast iron cylinder with good results, and I have a Pinasco 177 I'm about to have a look at. How can you use wet & dry without damaging the surrounding area? Sounds tricky.
Alluminum is much softer than the surrounding cast iron it's embedded on. 400 grit is going to rough up the cast iron a bit, but that will work in the rings at the same time.
Sorry! I should have mentioned that it's an aluminum/nicasil cylinder.
The nicle is still harder than the alluminum, sorry I gotta chip it in stone. Laughing emoticon
Edit; And to put a finer piont on your scenario if your suggested cylinder was in fact scored from the pistion, it's "garbage" anyway so yoi have nothing to lose.
@ginch avatar
UTC

Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8622
Location: Victoria, Australia
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
@ginch avatar
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8622
Location: Victoria, Australia
UTC quote
Veloce Vulture wrote:
Ginch wrote:
Veloce Vulture wrote:
Ginch wrote:
Veloce Vulture wrote:
It was mentioned in here to use acid to remove alluminum from cylinder wall of a soft seize, for anyone not wanting mess with nasty acid. 400 grit wet dry sandpaper can do a wonderful job with a little wd40 or something similar.
Love this thread btw, read it all this morning.
I've used acid on a cast iron cylinder with good results, and I have a Pinasco 177 I'm about to have a look at. How can you use wet & dry without damaging the surrounding area? Sounds tricky.
Alluminum is much softer than the surrounding cast iron it's embedded on. 400 grit is going to rough up the cast iron a bit, but that will work in the rings at the same time.
Sorry! I should have mentioned that it's an aluminum/nicasil cylinder.
The nicle is still harder than the alluminum, sorry I gotta chip it in stone. Laughing emoticon
Edit; And to put a finer piont on your scenario if your suggested cylinder was in fact scored from the pistion, it's "garbage" anyway so yoi have nothing to lose.
I have a couple of those... this one is only smeared with aluminium so may be retrievable. I'll give it a go and see what it's like. Cheers.
@veloce_vulture avatar
UTC

Hooked
Tuk Tuk.
Joined: UTC
Posts: 448
Location: Hawaii
 
Hooked
@veloce_vulture avatar
Tuk Tuk.
Joined: UTC
Posts: 448
Location: Hawaii
UTC quote
Ginch wrote:
Veloce Vulture wrote:
Ginch wrote:
Veloce Vulture wrote:
Ginch wrote:
Veloce Vulture wrote:
It was mentioned in here to use acid to remove alluminum from cylinder wall of a soft seize, for anyone not wanting mess with nasty acid. 400 grit wet dry sandpaper can do a wonderful job with a little wd40 or something similar.
Love this thread btw, read it all this morning.
I've used acid on a cast iron cylinder with good results, and I have a Pinasco 177 I'm about to have a look at. How can you use wet & dry without damaging the surrounding area? Sounds tricky.
Alluminum is much softer than the surrounding cast iron it's embedded on. 400 grit is going to rough up the cast iron a bit, but that will work in the rings at the same time.
Sorry! I should have mentioned that it's an aluminum/nicasil cylinder.
The nicle is still harder than the alluminum, sorry I gotta chip it in stone. Laughing emoticon
Edit; And to put a finer piont on your scenario if your suggested cylinder was in fact scored from the pistion, it's "garbage" anyway so yoi have nothing to lose.
I have a couple of those... this one is only smeared with aluminum so may be retrievable. I'll give it a go and see what it's like. Cheers.
Continuing, clean up the piston with the same method, working more gental to just drag off the highspots.
No sense buying a new top end while you work out the bugs dialing it in. Cheers!
@glscoot avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
Vespa GS150, Messerschmitt GS150
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1062
Location: Glasgow
 
Molto Verboso
@glscoot avatar
Vespa GS150, Messerschmitt GS150
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1062
Location: Glasgow
@ginch avatar
UTC

Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8622
Location: Victoria, Australia
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
@ginch avatar
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8622
Location: Victoria, Australia
UTC quote
GLscoot wrote:
http://www.mrp-racing.de/Kupplungshebel-Kupplungsarm-4-fach-Vespa-PX-T5-Rally-Sprint
Nice idea!

UTC

Banned
Joined: UTC
Posts: 103
 
Banned
Joined: UTC
Posts: 103
UTC quote
Very creative
Now THAT is pretty cool!
Somebody hurry up and make one of those for me so i don't have to do it.

(edit) oh wait, they already did...

http://www.mrp-racing.de/Kupplungshebel-Kupplungsarm-4-fach-Vespa-PX-T5-Rally-Sprint
Ginch wrote:
GLscoot wrote:
http://www.mrp-racing.de/Kupplungshebel-Kupplungsarm-4-fach-Vespa-PX-T5-Rally-Sprint
Nice idea!

UTC

Addicted
Joined: UTC
Posts: 903
 
Addicted
Joined: UTC
Posts: 903
UTC quote
External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text
These bottles have dozens of uses. I use one filled with gear oil to lube the chain of my motorcycle. Another with engine oil to lube bearings and stuff during a tear down. One with filter oil to oil my foam filters. You can use them to fill the gear box of a Vespa. Here in Japan I get them from Daiso, basically a dollar store, in the garden section, though as labwear you can find them in a lab supply place, or as I've heard in a beauty or tattoo supply store.

Hell, I got one full of tare sauce for grilling.
UTC

Addicted
Joined: UTC
Posts: 903
 
Addicted
Joined: UTC
Posts: 903
UTC quote
When tearing down a scooter/motorcycle or engine, I like to divide it up into sub-units/sub-assemblies, and each one gets its own parts tray for large parts and small dish (those magnetic ones work great, but I also use tupperware or things like yogurt/butter tubs, etc... which have the benefit that you can put a lid on them for long term) for small parts or fasteners.

For example, for a top end work, I might separate it into bodywork/frame, airfilter/carb/intake, head, cylinder/piston (on a 2t you could combine head, cylinder, and piston). Each one gets its own set of parts trays. That way, as I am reassembling and get done with one sub-unit, if I notice a part left over I know which sub-unit it belongs to and haven't gone too far that disassembling to put the part in isn't a complete pain in the ass.

Lets face it, we've all been there when we get done and noticed a part left over, usually a vital part that the engine would self destruct without. Worse off, you can't remember where it goes.

Also, syringes work great for applying a small amount of oil/grease in a tight spot. Usually you can find glue syringes at a hardware store, come in a bag of about a dozen for very little money.
@mjrally avatar
UTC

Veni, Vidi, Posti
73 & 74 Rally, 76 ET3, 80 P200, 06 PX150, 59 Ser 2, 65 Silver Special, 90 V5N 50, 2015 HD Road Glide Special
Joined: UTC
Posts: 5079
Location: Oceanside, CA
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
@mjrally avatar
73 & 74 Rally, 76 ET3, 80 P200, 06 PX150, 59 Ser 2, 65 Silver Special, 90 V5N 50, 2015 HD Road Glide Special
Joined: UTC
Posts: 5079
Location: Oceanside, CA
UTC quote
Buddy of mine uses cupcake tins with magnets in the bottom of them for each bit of the scoot. There's a dozen spots so you can really organize things
@autojack avatar
UTC

Addicted
'76 Vespa Rally 200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 697
Location: Melbourne
 
Addicted
@autojack avatar
'76 Vespa Rally 200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 697
Location: Melbourne
UTC quote
When I did my full rebuild, I organized stuff into ziploc bags with a post-it note in each bag to label the stuff. I can't imagine having enough muffin tins or magnetic bowls for that job
@veloce_vulture avatar
UTC

Hooked
Tuk Tuk.
Joined: UTC
Posts: 448
Location: Hawaii
 
Hooked
@veloce_vulture avatar
Tuk Tuk.
Joined: UTC
Posts: 448
Location: Hawaii
UTC quote
Using the factory specs and adjusting for modern fuels.
Plus a bit of dark arts, like opening your plug gap a bit to get a cleaner burn.
UTC

Addicted
Joined: UTC
Posts: 903
 
Addicted
Joined: UTC
Posts: 903
UTC quote
Anyone ever find this? Pretty nice gearing calc, better than the scooterhelp one. In French, but pretty self explanatory.
http://gearingcalc.free.fr/
@chandlerman avatar
UTC

Lucky
76 Sprint V, 63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella, 66 Smallstate
Joined: UTC
Posts: 9525
Location: Nashville

146 Days Since Last Explosion
 
Lucky
@chandlerman avatar
76 Sprint V, 63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella, 66 Smallstate
Joined: UTC
Posts: 9525
Location: Nashville

146 Days Since Last Explosion
UTC quote
Neurotic-Hapi-Snak wrote:
Anyone ever find this? Pretty nice gearing calc, better than the scooterhelp one. In French, but pretty self explanatory.
http://gearingcalc.free.fr/
I think that one's pretty well known, but another link certainly doesn't hurt . I've built something comparable in a spreadsheet for Excel & LibreOffice, too. No pre-sets in mine, but you can save it locally rather than having to re-type custom gearings every time you use it.

Gearing Calculator, Excel
Gearing Calculator, LibreOffice

I'd like to add air resistance/drag calc's so you can estimate necessary power output to actually drive the scoot for a given gearing and speed. Ideally, this would let people estimate whether their gearing is going to be too long for a given motor or how much power they need to tune for with a given gear stack.

Unfortunately, my physics are a little too rusty to do much more than borrow someone else's calc's and build them into my sheets.
@alanmac avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
'74 Rally, '72 Sprint
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1147
Location: Melbourne, London, Durham NC
 
Molto Verboso
@alanmac avatar
'74 Rally, '72 Sprint
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1147
Location: Melbourne, London, Durham NC
UTC quote
chandlerman wrote:
I've built something comparable in a spreadsheet for Excel & LibreOffice, too. No pre-sets in mine, but you can save it locally rather than having to re-type custom gearings every time you use it.

Gearing Calculator, Excel
Gearing Calculator, LibreOffice

Cheer Chandlerman! Nice job!
@ginch avatar
UTC

Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8622
Location: Victoria, Australia
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
@ginch avatar
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8622
Location: Victoria, Australia
UTC quote
chandlerman wrote:
Neurotic-Hapi-Snak wrote:
Anyone ever find this? Pretty nice gearing calc, better than the scooterhelp one. In French, but pretty self explanatory.
http://gearingcalc.free.fr/
I think that one's pretty well known, but another link certainly doesn't hurt . I've built something comparable in a spreadsheet for Excel & LibreOffice, too. No pre-sets in mine, but you can save it locally rather than having to re-type custom gearings every time you use it.

Gearing Calculator, Excel
Gearing Calculator, LibreOffice

I'd like to add air resistance/drag calc's so you can estimate necessary power output to actually drive the scoot for a given gearing and speed. Ideally, this would let people estimate whether their gearing is going to be too long for a given motor or how much power they need to tune for with a given gear stack.

Unfortunately, my physics are a little too rusty to do much more than borrow someone else's calc's and build them into my sheets.
Patrick OopsClunkThud did a really nice one shown in his thread. Not sure that he's sharing however. https://modernvespa.com/forum/post2065929#2065929
DoubleGood Design banner

Modern Vespa is the premier site for modern Vespa and Piaggio scooters. Vespa GTS300, GTS250, GTV, GT200, LX150, LXS, ET4, ET2, MP3, Fuoco, Elettrica and more.

Buy Me A Coffee
 

Shop on Amazon with Modern Vespa

Modern Vespa is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com


All Content Copyright 2005-2024 by Modern Vespa.
All Rights Reserved.


[ Time: 0.1729s ][ Queries: 4 (0.1500s) ][ live ][ 313 ][ ThingTwo ]