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Hooked
'58 VBA
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Hooked
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UTC quote
Baby bottle nipple would work too
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Nedminder
62 VBB1T Round Tail W/ leaner sidecar
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Nedminder
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UTC quote
Interesting stuff.
- Do you use a breather at top of that tube?

Looks like Rays goes down behind motor - and yours sticks up in the air to allow splash and drip down - or am I not following?
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UTC quote
My first race bike in the '80s had to have a hose like that fed into a catch bottle.
@ginch avatar
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Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
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@ginch avatar
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UTC quote
I've had one on mine for a few years now, initially to be able to check easily for leaking clutch seal, but also to avoid dripping. I cut down a cable adjuster to do this, more recently I've found you can buy a "lamp pipe nipple" that has an M7 thread very cheaply.

I read a thing on the GSF a few years ago where a guy was selling a barbed version, he said that he would run as much as 450ml of oil! Whether that much is better, or just more German, is an interesting point.

On the same subject, my new Malossi case took 350ml before it started to overflow.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
@108 avatar
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Ossessionato
PX 200
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UTC quote
charlieman22 wrote:
Interesting stuff.
- Do you use a breather at top of that tube?

Looks like Rays goes down behind motor - and yours sticks up in the air to allow splash and drip down - or am I not following?
Ran similar to Ray's, the hose ran past the carb and down past the shock. I didn't have a clearer photo.

Just ran with just a hose, nothing on the other end. Oil wouldn't go so far, just about an inch or 2, then dribble back down. But I wasn't a fan of having an extra hose at the back so gave up on it.
@safis avatar
UTC

Ossessionato
1979 P150X, 1983 P200E, 1987 PK125XL Elestart, 1988 T5, 1995 PX200E, 2011 Yamaha Fazer 600 S2
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@safis avatar
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UTC quote
I lift the back so my P is parallel to ground. My Malossi cases take almost 500ml. No spill outs from the stock breather…
@ginch avatar
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Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
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@ginch avatar
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UTC quote
SaFiS wrote:
My Malossi cases take almost 500ml. No spill outs from the stock breather…
Which version do you have? Do you tip it over a bit to fill it?
@108 avatar
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UTC quote
SaFiS wrote:
I lift the back so my P is parallel to ground. My Malossi cases take almost 500ml. No spill outs from the stock breather…
Blocked breather?

Always got dribble out of the breather… hose and/or egig breather solved the problem.
@safis avatar
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Ossessionato
1979 P150X, 1983 P200E, 1987 PK125XL Elestart, 1988 T5, 1995 PX200E, 2011 Yamaha Fazer 600 S2
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@safis avatar
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UTC quote
Ginch wrote:
Which version do you have? Do you tip it over a bit to fill it?
V-One. No, only scooter's lifted from the back…

108: Breather's fine, have checked it…
@chandlerman avatar
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Lucky
76 Sprint V, 63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella, 66 Smallstate
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UTC quote
My Quattrini smallie cases take 350ML of oil, which is the recommended amount for my clutch.

I really like the breather mod. I think I'd run the hose over and up so it sat next to the carb for ease of access/checking if necessary. It'd also act as a better filler point, too.
@108 avatar
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UTC quote
SaFiS wrote:
108: Breather's fine, have checked it…
Wish the stock breather would work for me.

Would've saved me checking the back of the engine after ever ride.
@108 avatar
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UTC quote
chandlerman wrote:
My Quattrini smallie cases take 350ML of oil, which is the recommended amount for my clutch.

I really like the breather mod. I think I'd run the hose over and up so it sat next to the carb for ease of access/checking if necessary. It'd also act as a better filler point, too.
Good point, never thought about using it to fill…
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Nedminder
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UTC quote
I'm so lost.
Breather is way way way above oil level.
Not really following why tube going down rather then breather would stop much more than a little dribble of splashing at top of clutch cover ?

Help the stupid please.
@ray8 avatar
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Molto Verboso
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UTC quote
Ginch wrote:
Whether that much is better, or just more German, is an interesting point.
ROFL emoticon
@ginch avatar
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Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
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@ginch avatar
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UTC quote
charlieman22 wrote:
I'm so lost.
Breather is way way way above oil level.
Not really following why tube going down rather then breather would stop much more than a little dribble of splashing at top of clutch cover ?

Help the stupid please.
Did you see this, and can you see exactly where the oil level is?

It's not going all the way down the tube because it's not under pressure as such, just that enough of it is being flung hard up to the breather. I'm guessing if it's a narrow tube then the viscosity stops it from traveling that much further. My take on it anyway!

https://youtu.be/yDkKKdlOHUY?si=yU1YYXXzsRwODv7X
@108 avatar
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Ossessionato
PX 200
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@108 avatar
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UTC quote
charlieman22 wrote:
I'm so lost.
Breather is way way way above oil level.
Not really following why tube going down rather then breather would stop much more than a little dribble of splashing at top of clutch cover ?

Help the stupid please.
Lol, classic case of imagining different things.

See basic diagrams below...
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
@socalguy avatar
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bodgemaster
63 GL, 76 Super (x2), 74 Primavera (x2), 79 P200, 06 Fly 150
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UTC quote
Wait … so the theory is that oil flung around the clutch can bend its way around the breather cap, but it can't bend its way down a tube?

I don't know …
@108 avatar
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UTC quote
SoCalGuy wrote:
Wait … so the theory is that oil flung around the clutch can bend its way around the breather cap, but it can't bend its way down a tube?

I don't know …
Well, "never" might be a bit of a strong word…

It's not a ton of pressure, just enough to escape out of the breather.

But works, it's not dripping oil out of the hose. You can see it in the clear hose which point the oil reaches.

I posted this before, watch at 0:10sec in… looks like oil could go out of the breather…

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bodgemaster
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UTC quote
What I'm saying is I don't think the tube does anything the breather doesn't already do.

Oil doesn't normally fly out of out the breather tube just from the clutch spinning. It doesn't on any of my scoots anyway, even if they're overfilled a bit.

It would need some pressure pulse behind it to splutter out from the top of the case, and that would be a sign of a leak somewhere between the crank case and the gear case - the most likely culprit being the clutch seal, but not necessarily.
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UTC quote
I remember doing the pressure test after I found the oil dribbling.

That was before I simplified from using a leak down kit (that I normally use on my BMW) which was a bit painful to the custom made adaptors and hoses.

No leak at that time.

I was still running a fuel pump at that time… that has been moved to the shelf.

And no leaks after I rebuilt it for the 4th time. Lol
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
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Nedminder
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UTC quote
I can see how some difference could occur - tube vs breather - though I would have thought it small.
Now grasp better what everyone was referring to with oil levels.
Thanks for the vids and diagrams.
Helpful.
@socalguy avatar
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bodgemaster
63 GL, 76 Super (x2), 74 Primavera (x2), 79 P200, 06 Fly 150
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UTC quote
Fair enough. I wonder if installing a bigger clutch, modifying the cover and/or spinning the clutch at high RPM's accounts for dribbling at the breather? Perhaps that creates more pressure in the gearbox than the original cap was designed to accommodate.
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Molto Verboso
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UTC quote
charlieman22 wrote:
I can see how some difference could occur - tube vs breather - though I would have thought it small.
Now grasp better what everyone was referring to with oil levels.
Thanks for the vids and diagrams.
Helpful.
From my anecdotal experience, at 400 ml vs the "200 or so till it dribbles out" it leaks out the breather. Not enough to be seen on the floor, but enough to make a black forest cake after several months of riding in a filthy city.

Judging from thin layer of grease in the cover washes (FMP test), at 300+ ml much more oil was thrown at the clutch.

P125's modified to fit Cosa clutches, so some oil flow lost.
Again, this is just my experience.
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Molto Verboso
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UTC quote
Ginch wrote:
I read a thing on the GSF a few years ago where a guy was selling a barbed version, he said that he would run as much as 450ml of oil! Whether that much is better, or just more German, is an interesting point.

On the same subject, my new Malossi case took 350ml before it started to overflow.
Put 400 in two bikes with tubes.
No leaks. Sounds and feels better.

Thinking one can't be too German in their approach to these bikes.
Don't watch this. Not easy to come back from that too German place:

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Hooked
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UTC quote
ausgezeichnet
@ginch avatar
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Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
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@ginch avatar
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UTC quote
Ray8 wrote:
Don't watch this. Not easy to come back from that too German place:
"A thing of beauty and wonderment" - singer's mum.

Fancy, listed in the Encyclopedia Galactica as "literally awful".

ROFL emoticon
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UTC quote
Ray8 wrote:
Put 400 in two bikes with tubes.
No leaks. Sounds and feels better.

Thinking one can't be too German in their approach to these bikes.
Don't watch this. Not easy to come back from that too German place:

I can picture the SIP guys dancing around in their urban loft kitchen/workshop with Vespas and tigers lounging around.

The missus is German but has never heard of Fancy even though it was around the time of her clubbing days.
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Veni, Vidi, Posti
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@ginch avatar
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UTC quote
A mate showed me his new favourite spark plug, a BCR8ES. I couldn't see what was different until he pointed out the hex - which the 'C' refers to - is 16mm rather than the standard 21. Makes more room to get your socket or tube spanner in between it and your CHT sensor.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
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parallelogramerist
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UTC quote
Ray8 wrote:
Put 400 in two bikes with tubes.
Don't watch this. Not easy to come back from that too German place:

That singer's look, sound, and style is like an amalgamation of David Hasselhoff, Cher, and Neil Tennant of the Pet Shop Boys.
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Sergeant at Arms
Weird 80's Vespas & Cool Vintage Lambrettas
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UTC quote
whodatschrome wrote:
That singer's look, sound, and style is like an amalgamation of David Hasselhoff, Cher, and Neil Tennant of the Pet Shop Boys.
bro, have you seen/hear the rest of the catalog? it's straight fire!

check out this banger!
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greasy125 wrote:
bro, have you seen/hear the rest of the catalog? it's straight fire!

check out this banger!
I love me some Neue Deutsche Welle but is it too much to ask that people respect the aspect ratio!
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UTC quote
oopsclunkthud wrote:
I love me some Neue Deutsche Welle but is it too much to ask that people respect the aspect ratio!
look PAL, it was the best I could do what with the down conversion from betamax...
@seamus26 avatar
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1979 P200E (sold) / ZNEN Amore 150 (sold) / Genuine Buddy 170i / Genuine Stella 4T /Aprilia Sportcity One 50
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@seamus26 avatar
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UTC quote
Ray8 wrote:
Put 400 in two bikes with tubes.
No leaks. Sounds and feels better.

Thinking one can't be too German in their approach to these bikes.
Don't watch this. Not easy to come back from that too German place:

I. Watched. It. All.

And I liked it. And I'm re-evaluating my whole childhood and realizing I may not have been cool for liking Alphaville.

This changes everything ...
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Lucky
76 Sprint V, 63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella, 66 Smallstate
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92 Days Since Last Explosion
 
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UTC quote
seamus26 wrote:
And I'm re-evaluating my whole childhood and realizing I may not have been cool for liking Alphaville.
Alphaville was not about being cool. Alphaville was about embracing the subtle Nihilism of "Party today, because tomorrow we may be wiped off the planet in a wave of nuclear fire."

@seamus26 avatar
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Ossessionato
1979 P200E (sold) / ZNEN Amore 150 (sold) / Genuine Buddy 170i / Genuine Stella 4T /Aprilia Sportcity One 50
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UTC quote
chandlerman wrote:
Alphaville was not about being cool. Alphaville was about embracing the subtle Nihilism of "Party today, because tomorrow we may be wiped off the planet in a wave of nuclear fire."

Thanks ... for just a minute I thought I'd lost all my coolness.

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UTC quote
The subtle nihilism is still with us

⬆️    About 3 months elapsed    ⬇️
OP
@v_oodoo avatar
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Style Maven
'74 50s x3 '78 P200 E '84 Cosa '91 PK50XL2 - & - '58 AllState '68 Sprint '66(?) Super125 and '72 DanMotor Super150
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UTC quote
Electronic ignition conversion for your points P125 on the cheap using your original stator and stock parts:

https://modernvespa.com/forum/view/post2656467

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text
Langolson wrote:
Comparison of US P125 points stator to other electronic stators. You can see that your stator is ready for an electronic pick up. You may need to enlarge and thread the hole that holds the pick up.
@hec_in_omaha avatar
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Hooked
1980 P125X US Spec
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Location: Beaver Lake, Nebraska USA
 
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@hec_in_omaha avatar
1980 P125X US Spec
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UTC quote
Here's how I got my stuck choke cable ferule out of the choke cable tube. Worked great!

https://modernvespa.com/forum/view/post2644656

Hec
@bajarob avatar
UTC

Hooked
1961 VS5T, 1981 P200E, Rigid Frame Chopper, 2001 Harley FXDXT
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Hooked
@bajarob avatar
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UTC quote
Here's my tip for removing broken off studs and bolts when you know an easy out isn't going to cut it. If the stub is long enough just weld a nut on it and turn it out. If it's flush build it up with your tig torch and filler rod then weld on a nut. The heat from welding helps loosen the stud. Sometimes the nut snaps off. Just keep welding it back on and rock the stud back and forth. Adding Kroil works wonders as well.
@vintage_red_matthew avatar
UTC

MV Santa
GTS250, 1975 VBC, 1980 P200E cutdown
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MV Santa
@vintage_red_matthew avatar
GTS250, 1975 VBC, 1980 P200E cutdown
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UTC quote
BajaRob wrote:
Here's my tip for removing broken off studs and bolts when you know an easy out isn't going to cut it. If the stub is long enough just weld a nut on it and turn it out. If it's flush build it up with your tig torch and filler rod then weld on a nut. The heat from welding helps loosen the stud. Sometimes the nut snaps off. Just keep welding it back on and rock the stud back and forth. Adding Kroil works wonders as well.
I've done that several times, usually with success.

My additional trick is to put a thin piece of cardboard or plastic under the nut. It only takes a few thousandsth.

When you weld on the nut it melts or burns away and leaves no friction between the nut and what is below it.
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