@vintage_red_matthew avatar
UTC

MV Santa
GTS250, 1975 VBC, 1980 P200E cutdown
Joined: UTC
Posts: 4743
Location: Sedgwick, Kansas
 
MV Santa
@vintage_red_matthew avatar
GTS250, 1975 VBC, 1980 P200E cutdown
Joined: UTC
Posts: 4743
Location: Sedgwick, Kansas
UTC quote
Ginch wrote:
A mate showed me his new favourite spark plug, a BCR8ES. I couldn't see what was different until he pointed out the hex - which the 'C' refers to - is 16mm rather than the standard 21. Makes more room to get your socket or tube spanner in between it and your CHT sensor.
I like it. I'm getting a couple.
@chandlerman avatar
UTC

Lucky
76 Sprint V, 63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella, 66 Smallstate
Joined: UTC
Posts: 9507
Location: Nashville

142 Days Since Last Explosion
 
Lucky
@chandlerman avatar
76 Sprint V, 63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella, 66 Smallstate
Joined: UTC
Posts: 9507
Location: Nashville

142 Days Since Last Explosion
UTC quote
Does the smaller nut mean it also has a smaller sealing surface as a result?
@bajarob avatar
UTC

Addicted
1961 VS5T, 1981 P200E, Rigid Frame Chopper, 2001 Harley FXDXT
Joined: UTC
Posts: 603
Location: Ventura, CA
 
Addicted
@bajarob avatar
1961 VS5T, 1981 P200E, Rigid Frame Chopper, 2001 Harley FXDXT
Joined: UTC
Posts: 603
Location: Ventura, CA
UTC quote
Sealing washer is the same. Just the nut size is smaller.
@oopsclunkthud avatar
UTC

Banned
3:5
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8934
Location: San Francisco
 
Banned
@oopsclunkthud avatar
3:5
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8934
Location: San Francisco
UTC quote
chandlerman wrote:
Does the smaller nut mean it also has a smaller sealing surface as a result?
the base is the same size, just the hex section is smaller.

Where I can (on welded or custom heads) I plan to use plugs with 10mm threads.
⬆️    About 2 months elapsed    ⬇️
@ginch avatar
UTC

Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8619
Location: Victoria, Australia
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
@ginch avatar
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8619
Location: Victoria, Australia
UTC quote
Drilling an SI carb
charlieman22 wrote:
Who dat - based on my experience - there has to be one of two things going on.
1. You don't have a large enough hole in the float bowl to allow the main jet to be doing its job. The hole is serving as the restriction. I would think you gotta be 2.3mm.
Note - more than one person has thought it's drilled out - only to find that there was a void they drilled into - but didn't go all the way through.

Simple test: take the main stack out, put a drill bit in the float bowl, and make sure you can look down the stack hole and see the drill bit head.


UTC

parallelogramerist
Joined: UTC
Posts: 5093
 
parallelogramerist
Joined: UTC
Posts: 5093
UTC quote
I know everyone has their own technique for removing their engine mounts, but i finally decided to time myself to see how long it would take me to whip mine out. Keep in mind this is the same technique that i've used for a looong time, but i finally just documented it.

Three tools are needed-
-large flat blade screwdriver
-channel locks
-propane torch

I started my stop watch and then picked up the propane torch. Stick the end of the torch inside one end of the the metal tube for about 45 seconds. Then stick the torch in the other end of the metal tube. When the rubber bushings begin to smoke then you know it's time. Grab the metal tube with the channel locks and pull it with a twisting action. Then go to the other side and do the same thing. And while the rubber is still warm, jam the flat blade screwdriver in through the hole where the spacer tubes were. Then pry the rubber out. Repeat the same process for the rear shock bushing.

It took me 2:54 to remove the swingarm bushings. It took very, very little elbow grease. Keep in mind that a minute and a half of that was spent just standing there holding a torch.

To reinstall the new Clausse bushings i sprayed silicon in both the swingarm and poly bushing (don't use grease!) and then tapped them into place with a plastic mallet. Only use the grease on the outside of the steel spacer tubes. Total time was about 5 minutes to do the swap.
heating the spacer tube for about 45 seconds to a minute in both sides (or until the rubber starts to smoke).
heating the spacer tube for about 45 seconds to a minute in both sides (or until the rubber starts to smoke).
pull out the spacer tubes
pull out the spacer tubes
pry out the rubber bushings
pry out the rubber bushings
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Tap the new poly bushing in first, then slide in the metal spacer tube second
Tap the new poly bushing in first, then slide in the metal spacer tube second
@birdsnest avatar
UTC

Not So Moderator
VNB VSC 09C VMA VSX - vbc vmb
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8039
Location: Hustletown, TX
 
Not So Moderator
@birdsnest avatar
VNB VSC 09C VMA VSX - vbc vmb
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8039
Location: Hustletown, TX
UTC quote
Nice work. I like it! I have usually done the all-thread technique ...and once the brute force and cussing technique.
@moto64 avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
'64 Motovespa 150S (177) , '65 VBB, '66 Allstate SF, '66 180SS
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1786
Location: S.Salem, NY
 
Molto Verboso
@moto64 avatar
'64 Motovespa 150S (177) , '65 VBB, '66 Allstate SF, '66 180SS
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1786
Location: S.Salem, NY
UTC quote
Came up with the fastest tire removal yet. Put it in the vice and braced the rim out with a stick fastened to the bench. Then cranking the vice just pushed the tire under the rim and popped it right off. Did three in no time. I use the spoons for the thin side. I've changed car tires with these things.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
@birdsnest avatar
UTC

Not So Moderator
VNB VSC 09C VMA VSX - vbc vmb
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8039
Location: Hustletown, TX
 
Not So Moderator
@birdsnest avatar
VNB VSC 09C VMA VSX - vbc vmb
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8039
Location: Hustletown, TX
UTC quote
Nice work.
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