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UTC quote
rgconner wrote:
It has it's own hole, as you say, a little higher up, about a 1/2 way up that bottom arm tube.

I shoved an old outer up it until it showed at the top, then taped them together and pulled it back down the center tube at the headset.
Spot on !!

I feed the inner up from the hole near the bottom.
Then slide the outer down over that from the top.
Then remove the inner from the bottom & feed it back in the top.
Voila !!
@astromags avatar
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UTC quote
Homemade Flywheel Holder
I saw a commercially available version of this tool online and figured I could make my own. I had super-heavy gauge piece of wire laying around so with the help of the bench vice and some locking pliers I was able to fashion a reasonable facsimile. Worked like a charm. Total cost $0.
The tool
The tool
Wraps around kick starter stud
Wraps around kick starter stud
Locks into flywheel's inspection hole.
Locks into flywheel's inspection hole.
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UTC quote
nebulae wrote:
I feed the inner up from the hole near the bottom.
Then slide the outer down over that from the top.
Then remove the inner from the bottom & feed it back in the top.
Voila !!
Nebulae's way is the way to do it. Getting a wad of tape stuck inside the fork could be a problem.
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UTC quote
Re: Homemade Flywheel Holder
astromags wrote:
I saw a commercially available version of this tool online and figured I could make my own. I had super-heavy gauge piece of wire laying around so with the help of the bench vice and some locking pliers I was able to fashion a reasonable facsimile. Worked like a charm. Total cost $0.
Seriously?

Dude. Buy the damn $12 tool.
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Re: Homemade Flywheel Holder
SFvsr wrote:
astromags wrote:
I saw a commercially available version of this tool online and figured I could make my own. I had super-heavy gauge piece of wire laying around so with the help of the bench vice and some locking pliers I was able to fashion a reasonable facsimile. Worked like a charm. Total cost $0.
Seriously?

Dude. Buy the damn $12 tool.
Haha! No need. It's in my tool box and my flywheel is off. Besides, I would have had to wait for it to arrive.
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Good one Astromags
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UTC quote
Fuel tap tool
I got a $2 bit of 8mm rod and ground a flat on one end, then bent it in the vice. I'd already tried the basin wrench but it didn't fit into the small depression in the bottom of the Super tank. I didn't have access to a welder and this works well.

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text
⚠️ Last edited by Ginch on UTC; edited 1 time
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UTC quote
That's the stuff. A fine example of good old ingenuity.
OP
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UTC quote
home made tools
I like 'em.
astromags wrote:
I saw a commercially available version of this tool online and figured I could make my own. I had super-heavy gauge piece of wire laying around so with the help of the bench vice and some locking pliers I was able to fashion a reasonable facsimile. Worked like a charm. Total cost $0.
I like it & would make one to save $12 too. If I fixed scoots for a living, then yeah I'd prob get the real tool.

Old trick

BUT... I'd only need it if the head was off. Use a piece of fuel line in the spark plug hole if head is on. Just make sure it's curled up & doesn't go down in the exhaust port, maybe getting sheared off.
OP
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UTC quote
What color, what year
The poorly repainted peeling gray Primavera that I am helping a friend with is all taken apart.
Minor weld repairs to floorboard struts are done.
She's ready for blasting or chem stripping, some modest body work and NEW De Luxe PAINT!

He wants to stick to a color 'correct' for his year if possible, likely a bright Skittles orange or green.
I was trying to find him something that referenced by year AND showed colors when I found this Italian paint source with a GREAT Vespa color chart 12 pages long!

looks like this:

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text
@ginch avatar
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Re: What color, what year
V oodoo wrote:
I was trying to find him something that referenced by year AND showed colors when I found this Italian paint source with a GREAT Vespa color chart 12 pages long!
And here's the rest of the story to help turn those pages into reality -
Original colour chart / color codes/paint codes reference
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Re: home made tools
V oodoo wrote:
I like 'em.
astromags wrote:
I saw a commercially available version of this tool online and figured I could make my own.
I like it & would make one to save $12 too. If I fixed scoots for a living, then yeah I'd prob get the real tool.

Old trick

BUT... I'd only need it if the head was off. Use a piece of fuel line in the spark plug hole if head is on. Just make sure it's curled up & doesn't go down in the exhaust port, maybe getting sheared off.
I just use an air wrench.

Kobalt makes a nice one in 3/8, less torque but also a lot less air pressure/CFM to run it.

I can even use it to zip off the clutch nut with a home made clutch nut tool while the engine is still in the normal position and just the wheel removed.

I guess I might be screwed if I was on the Cannonball or something, but since I ride close to home I am good with it.
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UTC quote
I just saw this posted by Sir Paul and thought it's a useful trick for eliminating a possible problem.
Sir Paul wrote:
If you have spark and fuel, then check the exhaust. Is the pipe plugged up with 2 stroke soot. Apparently an engine has to breathe, i found this out the hard way.
A mechanic buddy just removed the pipe and kicked over the motor, it started right up. He then shut it down immediately and we got down to cleaning out the pipe.
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Ginch wrote:
I just saw this posted by Sir Paul and thought it's a useful trick for eliminating a possible problem.
100 percent.
Been saying this forever.
Whenever a "how to clean exhaust" comes up I say don't waste the time, find a good clean used/or new pipe. It is also difficult to tune a carb if your pipe is shot. Also if you have a silencer can and its old, the glass packing and baffle holes are probably sooted and clogged.
OP
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jimmyb865 wrote:
Ginch wrote:
I just saw this posted by Sir Paul and thought it's a useful trick for eliminating a possible problem.
100 percent.
Been saying this forever.
Whenever a "how to clean exhaust" comes up I say don't waste the time, find a good clean used/or new pipe. It is also difficult to tune a carb if your pipe is shot. Also if you have a silencer can and its old, the glass packing and baffle holes are probably sooted and clogged.
Big YES on the Check The Muffler! when trouble shooting. The last time this bit me, all was working fine when all of a sudden my motor didn't want to run(in motor stand). You need spark (at right time), air & gas so I checked and HAD all that, but motor would idle for a minute then die, right away if you tried to open throttle. Finally changed the muffler and it ran fine again.

Unofficial Crude test for plugged muffler:
Take a couple of tight wraps of masking tape around the exit tip. Now you have a 'clean' mouthpiece, pucker up and BLOW as hard as you can thru the muffler. There should be no noticable restriction. Both the clogged ones I've encountered were obvious when tested this way.

Big MAYBE on wasting time with 'plugged' muffs - I've saved a couple this way

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text
FIRE shoots out the tip!
Afterwards rap around edge seam w/ a hammer, shake crap out, then final flush w/ compressed air & shop vac to suit. But no wood stove available, Jimmy's right. I'm no fan of oven cleaners or Drano for this.
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UTC quote
I normally use the impact gun for the clutch. if stuck I have used some nylon rope fed down the plug hole. jobs a good un
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The wood stove is a beaut Voodoo. My grandma had one, she chopped her own wood as well and I once saw her smoking a pipe.


This is the thing about cooking the exhaust clean.

It can be fun.
We love expeariments
Everybody loves to play with fire.

But......................since our motors are designed to utilize a certain amount of used exhaust it has always been a fear that a large rust flake or two will get sucked back into the topend.

And that would suck(pun intended)
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UTC quote
Pulling fuel line into the carb box
Fresh on the mind since I just did this....

It always sux running the fuel line into the airbox on a large frame. Instead of contorting and cussing just have a pair of curved tip hemotats handy (or ask the doper next door to borrow his "roach holders").

1. Reach through the grommet
2. grab and lock the stats to the fuel line
3. pull
4. drink beer (and/or use roach holders for intended purpose)

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text
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UTC quote
i just did this sans holder. i think ill be getting a pair now. cool tip. had to take the wheel off to push it through.
OP
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Reference Library
I noticed these in my Vespa reference folder.
Please share any other charts or diagrams you have that you think could be helpful to others.

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UTC quote
nice share Voo doo
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UTC quote
Re: Pulling fuel line into the carb box
Birdsnest wrote:
Fresh on the mind since I just did this....

It always sux running the fuel line into the airbox on a large frame. Instead of contorting and cussing just have a pair of curved tip hemotats handy (or ask the doper next door to borrow his "roach holders").

1. Reach through the grommet
2. grab and lock the stats to the fuel line
3. pull
4. drink beer (and/or use roach holders for intended purpose)

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text
A trick I use, instead. I just poke a small phillips head screwdriver (about 1/8" diameter) down through the airbox. I thread the fuel line on the end of the screwdriver, then just gently pull it up while pushing on the line. It helps keep it centered in the hole.

Hojo
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Re: Reference Library
V oodoo wrote:
I noticed these in my Vespa reference folder.
Great stuff.

Damn... I miss adastra hanging around. He was good people...
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Re: Pulling fuel line into the carb box
hojo1690 wrote:
A trick I use, instead. I just poke a small phillips head screwdriver (about 1/8" diameter) down through the airbox. I thread the fuel line on the end of the screwdriver, then just gently pull it up while pushing on the line. It helps keep it centered in the hole.

Hojo
Nice.
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I noticed today that the threading on the rear shock absorber spacer is the same as the 9mm rear shock engine mount bolt

In a pinch, I guess you could sacrifice the ride height for a replacement nut if had come loose.
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Magnetic oil plug
brentscheffler wrote:
I just put a small round rare-earth magnet on the head of the oil bolt.

Done and done.
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Where to put your mixing jug
T5bitsa69 wrote:
after i kitted it i thought it better to pull the autolube ....... put some sticky back velcro in ya tool box n on ya jug then ya can stick it out the way
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Some really good tips in here guys.
OP
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Pulling fuel lever thru that little hole
hojo1690 wrote:
Birdsnest wrote:
Fresh on the mind since I just did this....

It always sux running the fuel line into the airbox on a large frame. Instead of contorting and cussing just have a pair of curved tip hemotats handy (or ask the doper next door to borrow his "roach holders").

1. Reach through the grommet
2. grab and lock the stats to the fuel line
3. pull
4. drink beer (and/or use roach holders for intended purpose)

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text
A trick I use, instead. I just poke a small phillips head screwdriver (about 1/8" diameter) down through the airbox. I thread the fuel line on the end of the screwdriver, then just gently pull it up while pushing on the line. It helps keep it centered in the hole.

Hojo
Thanks guys! This tip gave me an idea to solve the problem I always have trying to jiggle the fuel tap rod back thru the hole when reinstalling the gas tank. Same idea really, only backwards. I used a length of plastic tubing pushed onto the lever end & put the tubing thru the hole first. Pulling the tube as I lowered the tank brought the handle right out the hole with no cussing.
I heated the tube end to get a snug fit on the lever handle
I heated the tube end to get a snug fit on the lever handle
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
OP
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Remove muffler without removing wheel
This one is for Vader, I promised him a solution for this almost a year ago. On your muff w/ 2 tabs(3 port motors only), ever notice you can't get the muffler bolt out without pulling the wheel off or maybe letting the air out? Bummer.

So while sorting out my FIRST big P, I believe I found a simple and effective method. The answer is you DON'T HAVE TO remove the bolt if you slot the rear tab on the muffler. I used a lock washer & large thick flat washer to maintain good clamping pressure and the front tab is unchanged, so I don't think it's gonna fall off on the road.
Hmmm that exit pipe is all mangled.... what to do..
Hmmm that exit pipe is all mangled.... what to do..
scrap box junk to the rescue! (no round pipe the right size around, have to make do)
scrap box junk to the rescue! (no round pipe the right size around, have to make do)
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UTC quote
Re: Pulling fuel lever thru that little hole
V oodoo wrote:
This tip gave me an idea to solve the problem I always have trying to jiggle the fuel tap rod back thru the hole when reinstalling the gas tank. Same idea really, only backwards. I used a length of plastic tubing pushed onto the lever end & put the tubing thru the hole first. Pulling the tube as I lowered the tank brought the handle right out the hole with no cussing.
Voodoo, you are a star. That bit is definitely my favourite worst job! I normally use a bit of string tied around the rod but the lever handle always gets stuck... this thread should be in the Haynes manual!


And the exhaust! It's so obvious now... I'm ashamed I didn't think of it.
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I just let some of the air out of the rear tire to swing the exhaust down because I"m to chicken shit scared to try Voodoos way. I have had too many things fall of my bikes over the years(Harleys)
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UTC quote
Flywheel Holder
owlcore wrote:
Pull the spark plug out and stuff a length of cotton rope down the hole filling the cylinder, there's your flywheel holder. I've never needed a special tool for splitting the case either. take everything off and just pull.
OP
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Same idea...
Ginch wrote:
owlcore wrote:
Pull the spark plug out and stuff a length of cotton rope down the hole filling the cylinder, there's your flywheel holder. I've never needed a special tool for splitting the case either. take everything off and just pull.
V oodoo wrote:
Old trick

.... Use a piece of fuel line in the spark plug hole if head is on. Just make sure it's curled upwards & doesn't go down in the exhaust port, maybe getting sheared off.
I don't like to use a rope cuz it seems too easy to have it come out the exhaust port and end up with bits of rope stuck in there.
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UTC quote
Re: Pulling fuel lever thru that little hole
V oodoo wrote:
Thanks guys! This tip gave me an idea to solve the problem I always have trying to jiggle the fuel tap rod back thru the hole when reinstalling the gas tank. Same idea really, only backwards. I used a length of plastic tubing pushed onto the lever end & put the tubing thru the hole first. Pulling the tube as I lowered the tank brought the handle right out the hole with no cussing.
HA! Love it... especially on those tight fit tanks like the Rally. Good stuff.
@cubastreet avatar
UTC

Hooked
rollin on 8s
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Posts: 283
Location: NZ
 
Hooked
@cubastreet avatar
rollin on 8s
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Location: NZ
@ginch avatar
UTC

Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
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Location: Victoria, Australia
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
@ginch avatar
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8515
Location: Victoria, Australia
UTC quote
*picture gone missing
⚠️ Last edited by Ginch on UTC; edited 1 time
@ginch avatar
UTC

Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8515
Location: Victoria, Australia
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
@ginch avatar
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8515
Location: Victoria, Australia
UTC quote
Too much to paste here - Split rim tire remover
OP
@v_oodoo avatar
UTC

Style Maven
'74 50s x3 '78 P200 E '84 Cosa '91 PK50XL2 - & - '58 AllState '68 Sprint '66(?) Super125 and '72 DanMotor Super150
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Style Maven
@v_oodoo avatar
'74 50s x3 '78 P200 E '84 Cosa '91 PK50XL2 - & - '58 AllState '68 Sprint '66(?) Super125 and '72 DanMotor Super150
Joined: UTC
Posts: 9492
Location: seattle/athens
UTC quote
Stiff choke cable
JSharpPhoto wrote:
another thing to check....

make sure your choke cable is properly lubed. I was fighting a bizarre (what I thought was) timing issue where it was constantly bogging out under throttle. Then i realized when I was closing the choke after warm up, the cable wasn't pushing the choke actually all the way closed, so I was riding half-choked. Fixed it, and it's been perfect ever since.
Good call, thanks!
I can confirm this shit happens, so add it to your troubleshooting list.
@sara_alexandra avatar
UTC

Hooked
PX232 Lambretta li s3, Vespa cross, Vespa cross prototype, Honda NS400r....
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Hooked
@sara_alexandra avatar
PX232 Lambretta li s3, Vespa cross, Vespa cross prototype, Honda NS400r....
Joined: UTC
Posts: 282
Location: Belgium
UTC quote
I have a quick coupling on the fuel line, much easyer to take out the tank. When apart they are closed, dual shut-off, so no fuel leaking down your sleeve Find them in motorcycle-stores. +/- 20EUR
Sara
sorry no pics
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