@vader19 avatar
UTC

Mr. Clean
P,SUPER,V90, 50 Special
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Mr. Clean
@vader19 avatar
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UTC quote
Sara Alexandra wrote:
I have a quick coupling on the fuel line
I use on all mine.. great for carb swapping, tuning etc.. I put 'em on the carb and on the fuel tank.

Jet200 sells them.

http://jet200.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=1854
@mjrally avatar
UTC

Veni, Vidi, Posti
73 & 74 Rally, 76 ET3, 80 P200, 06 PX150, 59 Ser 2, 65 Silver Special, 90 V5N 50, 2015 HD Road Glide Special
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Posts: 5079
Location: Oceanside, CA
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
@mjrally avatar
73 & 74 Rally, 76 ET3, 80 P200, 06 PX150, 59 Ser 2, 65 Silver Special, 90 V5N 50, 2015 HD Road Glide Special
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UTC quote
brentscheffler wrote:

If you *do* remove the auto lube, make sure you do it right. Simply removing the pinion gear won't cut it. You'll need to block up the hole where the gear went (SIP actually sells an aluminum plug specially designed for this) and seal up the oil path carved into the underside of the airbox with some yamabond. This will make sure no additional air is getting into the fuel mix.
@scooterraton avatar
UTC

Ossessionato
2 - Many
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Posts: 3164
Location: Boca Raton, Florida
 
Ossessionato
@scooterraton avatar
2 - Many
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Location: Boca Raton, Florida
UTC quote
Re: Pulling fuel lever thru that little hole
Birdsnest wrote:
V oodoo wrote:
Thanks guys! This tip gave me an idea to solve the problem I always have trying to jiggle the fuel tap rod back thru the hole when reinstalling the gas tank. Same idea really, only backwards. I used a length of plastic tubing pushed onto the lever end & put the tubing thru the hole first. Pulling the tube as I lowered the tank brought the handle right out the hole with no cussing.
HA! Love it... especially on those tight fit tanks like the Rally. Good stuff.
I use dental floss and tie it around the tap rod and thread through
@scooterraton avatar
UTC

Ossessionato
2 - Many
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Location: Boca Raton, Florida
 
Ossessionato
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2 - Many
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UTC quote
A flywheel holder also makes an excellent hanger for a dremel flex shaft tool. When the scoot is on the lift I just hang it from the kick start.
OP
@v_oodoo avatar
UTC

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UTC quote
Re: Pulling fuel lever thru that little hole
ScooterRaton wrote:
I use dental floss and tie it around the tap rod and thread through
Well, yeah....

That's sorta what I used to do, only with fishing line. But the damn tip of the lever got hung up too easy! Maybe I just lacked the proper knack, but the cussing got louder & louder...

This way that can't happen and that was the whole point of the post.

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text
@ginch avatar
UTC

Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
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Location: Victoria, Australia
 
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@ginch avatar
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8622
Location: Victoria, Australia
UTC quote
SFvsr wrote:
Bevel the edge of the clutch nut tool. Clutch design changed over the years and some clutch nut tools go deeper into the castellated nut than others, mostly because the tool bottoms out on the clutch before it seats completely into the nut.

In the picture, the tool on left is unmodified. The tool on right has been put to a grinder.
External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text
OP
@v_oodoo avatar
UTC

Style Maven
'74 50s x3 '87 PK125XL '92 PK50XLS Plurimatic - & - '58 AllState '68 Sprint '66(?) Super125 and '72 DanMotor Super150
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UTC quote
SI carb diagram
needs to be easier to find
External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text
@johnkiniston avatar
UTC

Enthusiast
GT200
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Posts: 92
Location: Tucson, AZ
 
Enthusiast
@johnkiniston avatar
GT200
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Posts: 92
Location: Tucson, AZ
UTC quote
I learned this one at my dealer last week.

When changing a speedometer cable on a Stella Sit on the front fender to compress the suspension instead of strapping the bike down on the lift.

The guy doing it made it look pretty simple and it didn't require using the lift and straps to do either. He just reached under the fender to remove the bolt. out pulled the old cable, in went the new cable and he tightened the bolt back up. Took minutes.
OP
@v_oodoo avatar
UTC

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UTC quote
Motor & Fork, step by step
mr10 wrote:
...

This might interest you guys too, maybe:
Building a PX engine in 185 pics:
http://gallery.vespresso.nl/Vespresso/Referentie/P200-85-Motorblok-Opbouw

Dismanteling a Rally fork (doing it up is in the Rally album):
http://gallery.vespresso.nl/Vespresso/Referentie/Rally-Voorvork
If you're going to be assembling a motor(especially first time), be sure to check out mr10's HUGE pic set of the process. No words, just lots of great pics! But that's like 185,000 words?
@warhorse avatar
UTC

Hooked
'80 Bajaj chetak, '05 LML
Joined: UTC
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Location: Sydney
 
Hooked
@warhorse avatar
'80 Bajaj chetak, '05 LML
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Location: Sydney
UTC quote
Tired of your rubber stand boots wearing out? Buy a couple of 75mm long m12 galvanized coach bolts and glue them in the end of the stand legs
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
OP
@v_oodoo avatar
UTC

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UTC quote
adding Attachment Points
External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text
oopsclunkthud wrote:
Replaced the front stand bolts with 6mm forged eyelets so I can strap down a gas can.
External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text
@oopsclunkthud avatar
UTC

Banned
3:5
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UTC quote
In addition to the eyelets on the stand bolts, I found something way better than bungee cords.

Rok Straps

Loops on the ends instead of hooks so they don't scratch your paint, quick release in the middle and adjustable length.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
@ashbrook avatar
UTC

Ossessionato
Vespa GTS Kymco AK550
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Location: London UK
 
Ossessionato
@ashbrook avatar
Vespa GTS Kymco AK550
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Posts: 3199
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UTC quote
oopsclunkthud wrote:
In addition to the eyelets on the stand bolts, I found something way better than bungee cords.

Rok Straps

Loops on the ends instead of hooks so they don't scratch your paint, quick release in the middle and adjustable length.
+1 on the ROK straps much better than bungee
@ginch avatar
UTC

Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
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Location: Victoria, Australia
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
@ginch avatar
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
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UTC quote
If you turn your fuel can around (lid to the front of the bike) you should only need one strap to hold it down... even quicker release!
OP
@v_oodoo avatar
UTC

Style Maven
'74 50s x3 '87 PK125XL '92 PK50XLS Plurimatic - & - '58 AllState '68 Sprint '66(?) Super125 and '72 DanMotor Super150
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UTC quote
Worktable
Congrats to Blackbomber for coming up with the best idea I've seen yet for a ghetto worktable.
Dead stable and access is great as you can easily walk all around it.
And there's a natural place for parts & tools without putting them on the scoot.
Thanks, BB
All we need now is an easy way to get it up there. Long ramp... hoist...?
Blackbomber wrote:
...
Brought her down to my basement, and fashioned a work stand out of an old cable spool. Don't worry, she's firmly fastened down at the rear with a ratchet strap going through the motor pivot bolt holes on both sides:
[URL=http://s667.photobucket.com/user/whoyer/media/Vespa%20Rally/IMG_20130622_210646_437.jpg.html]External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text[/URL]
UTC

Molto Verboso
07 LX50
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1977
 
Molto Verboso
07 LX50
Joined: UTC
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UTC quote
I like that orange!
⚠️ Last edited by Mudnman on UTC; edited 1 time
@mighty_triceratops avatar
UTC

Addicted
'79 P200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 926
Location: Chicago
 
Addicted
@mighty_triceratops avatar
'79 P200
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Location: Chicago
UTC quote
This one's for Vader:
Mr. Clean Magic Eraser will clean grease and scuffs in 2 swipes. My wife found a blog called "Ask a Clean Person" and they swear by them. After seeing how well they worked on my stovetop and walls, I took it to my scoot and it wiped oil and grime off like it was dust and didn't have a hint of paint on the sponge.
@vader19 avatar
UTC

Mr. Clean
P,SUPER,V90, 50 Special
Joined: UTC
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Location: This is't my locker!
 
Mr. Clean
@vader19 avatar
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UTC quote
Re: This one's for Vader:
Deleted fun chatter.. keeping this thread CLEAN!
⚠️ Last edited by Vader19 on UTC; edited 1 time
OP
@v_oodoo avatar
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Style Maven
'74 50s x3 '87 PK125XL '92 PK50XLS Plurimatic - & - '58 AllState '68 Sprint '66(?) Super125 and '72 DanMotor Super150
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UTC quote
Using Amber Bulbs
in standard sockets or vice versa:
hojo1690 wrote:
Just an FYI. It's easy to modify bulbs. I have those whacky offset sockets on all my fixtures. You can just dremel one of the nibs off a bulb, and put a dab of solder in the correct location. It works like a charm, and is easier than finding those oddball bulbs online.

Hojo
I figured out the grind one nib off solution but my turn bulbs sometimes popped loose with just one nib on my P w/ clear lenses & amber bulbs Now adding this dab of solder part is genius, never would have thought of that!


(Amber bulbs have one 'nib' offset, to prevent clear bulbs being used in their sockets)
@ginch avatar
UTC

Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: UTC
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Location: Victoria, Australia
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
@ginch avatar
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
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Posts: 8622
Location: Victoria, Australia
UTC quote
Compressing a stiff front spring - pre P
davidsquaredson wrote:
My stock spring is 16.5 cm, the stiff spring is 17cm. The coils are noticeably thicker. With the damper removed the spring needs to fit into a space of about 15cm. Research on line and with shops all said fit one end and use a pry bar to compress and force it in.

I didnt want to take the fork out and put it in a vice, but I did this anyway and was unsuccessful trying to force the spring in. I came up with the following method.

Put a brick under the kickstand to raise the front wheel. Remove the wheel and damper. Take your old spring off, and remove the top and bottom mounting points.

I cut a 40 cm piece of strapping off of one end of a tie-down strap. I threaded this through near the top and bottom of the stiff spring.

To compress the spring I used a large pipe clamp. A large vice would work as well.

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

I threaded the strapping into the tie-down strap ratchet. This would allow me to take up the slack as I compressed the spring with the clamp. The idea being that the strap would hold the spring compressed so I could put it in the scooter.

After a turn of the clamp I would ratchet the strap. At the top the spring pinched the strap but not at the bottom. Be sure to leave a coil or two for the mounting disks.

Completely compressed this way I got the stiff spring down to 15 cm.

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

I then fit the top mounting disk in the spring. The coils are so tight this is very hard to get much of it in. I fit the bottom mounting disk to the fork in such a position to allow me to push the spring in and then twist it to pick up the edge of the disk.

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

Fit the spring in the top hole and loosely attach the nut. Push the spring into the bottom and twist it to catch the mounting plate. If you compressed to 15 cm the spring should just fit.


Tighten the top nut. I cut the strap off.

To fit the damper, fix it at the top but dont tighen the bolt. Use a long handle screw driver as a pry bar at the bottom to get the end connecting point down do you can fit the damper. You will see two notches in the damper you need to line up. It helps if someone sits on the scooter as it will likely move when you are prying.

This would take me less than an hour to do.

Some additional points.

I originally had a stock spring and damper. The breaking nose dive was really bothering me, plus our Toronto streets are shit and the pot holes caused bad dive as well. So I had a garage install a stiff spring. All is well. Its a dramatic difference over stock. Essentially no dive.

I thought this year I would improve it by adding a BGM damper. I took the stock damper off. I could not fit the BGM damper in. I took the stiff spring off and put the stock spring on. I did not like this set up. Even with heavier fork oil in the BGM damper, its only about 20% more damping effect over stock and has zero influence over diving.

I compared the BGM damper to stock and its more than 1 cm longer. This is why I could not fit it with the stiff spring. Fitting the stock damper was just possible with the stiff spring. I doubt is possible to fit the BGM damper along with it, and its of limited benefit so I am not going to invest the time to figure out if its possible.

But the stiff spring really does transform the ride of my Rally 200.

Hope this helps.


David
⚠️ Last edited by Ginch on UTC; edited 1 time
OP
@v_oodoo avatar
UTC

Style Maven
'74 50s x3 '87 PK125XL '92 PK50XLS Plurimatic - & - '58 AllState '68 Sprint '66(?) Super125 and '72 DanMotor Super150
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@v_oodoo avatar
'74 50s x3 '87 PK125XL '92 PK50XLS Plurimatic - & - '58 AllState '68 Sprint '66(?) Super125 and '72 DanMotor Super150
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UTC quote
Engine Braking Lubrication
ScooterRaton wrote:
On my premix GT I have rewired the light switch to be a kill switch. On a long decent I keep it in gear, kill the motor and keep the throttle open so it keeps sucking in fuel and oil. Near the bottom flip the switch back to on and it fires right back up.
Clap emoticon Thankyou sir, GOOD one & so obvious....
@ginch avatar
UTC

Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8622
Location: Victoria, Australia
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
@ginch avatar
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8622
Location: Victoria, Australia
UTC quote
Grumpy wrote:
Hello

I find it helps prior to starting to pull in the clutch and kick it over a few times to free off the plates, once started pull in the clutch for a few seconds to allow oil to splash in between the plates, seems to get rid of the clunk when going into first.

Grumpy
⚠️ Last edited by Ginch on UTC; edited 2 times
@fatbear5 avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
1977 P200, 1980 P200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1225
Location: Fresno, CA
 
Molto Verboso
@fatbear5 avatar
1977 P200, 1980 P200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1225
Location: Fresno, CA
UTC quote
Magnet tricks
I was looking for a way to mount a clock and a thermometer on the glovebox of my P125x without drilling holes or using velcro and ran across some neodymium magnets I had. They have proven to be much more useful than I expected. For the clock and thermometer, I epoxied a washer onto the back of each and then held them in place with the magnet. A piece of electrical tape on the scooter side of the magnet prevents any scratching.

Here are some other places where I've used magnets very successfully.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
I glued a magnet to the inside of a small (silver) tool bag and mounted it vertically inside the glovebox.
I glued a magnet to the inside of a small (silver) tool bag and mounted it vertically inside the glovebox.
I use a small lock as a mileage minder and have mounted it on the inside of the glovebox door.  There is another washer epoxied to the backside of the lock.
I use a small lock as a mileage minder and have mounted it on the inside of the glovebox door. There is another washer epoxied to the backside of the lock.
To carry an emergency oil supply, I put a piece of metal into the bottle and a magnet on the inside of the cowl.
To carry an emergency oil supply, I put a piece of metal into the bottle and a magnet on the inside of the cowl.
The bottle never moves.
The bottle never moves.
The roll bag is held in place by straps but it slides around on the luggage rack so I put a magnet at the bottom of each of the two side pockets directly above the outside chrome bars and they hold the roll bag in place.
The roll bag is held in place by straps but it slides around on the luggage rack so I put a magnet at the bottom of each of the two side pockets directly above the outside chrome bars and they hold the roll bag in place.
Under the roll bag I carry a tire jack attached to the underside of the luggage rack with two magnets.  It is also held by a strap on the bottom of the roll bag but  that is mostly in case the jack is jostled loose from the magnets.  (It's never happened)
Under the roll bag I carry a tire jack attached to the underside of the luggage rack with two magnets. It is also held by a strap on the bottom of the roll bag but that is mostly in case the jack is jostled loose from the magnets. (It's never happened)
I don't know if magnets help activate an inductive loop traffic detector or not but I figured, What the Hell and added a couple to the underside of my frame.  That really annoying light near my home seems to turn green more quickly now so... maybe!
I don't know if magnets help activate an inductive loop traffic detector or not but I figured, What the Hell and added a couple to the underside of my frame. That really annoying light near my home seems to turn green more quickly now so... maybe!
My next project will be to add a pigtail for my trickle charger and I will secure it on the L-shapped bracket next the spare tire.  I might have to screw that one down though.  Don't know yet.
My next project will be to add a pigtail for my trickle charger and I will secure it on the L-shapped bracket next the spare tire. I might have to screw that one down though. Don't know yet.
⚠️ Last edited by Fatbear5 on UTC; edited 3 times
@vader19 avatar
UTC

Mr. Clean
P,SUPER,V90, 50 Special
Joined: UTC
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Location: This is't my locker!
 
Mr. Clean
@vader19 avatar
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UTC quote
Great ideas... I'd have never even thought of the oil bottle!! Good stuff Fatty!
@bobo avatar
UTC

Ossessionato
'70 Super 150, Medley 150S, '23 Ducati Monster SP
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Posts: 2533
Location: Sydney, Australia
 
Ossessionato
@bobo avatar
'70 Super 150, Medley 150S, '23 Ducati Monster SP
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UTC quote
Very cool. Thumbs up.
@wp2 avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
79' P210 GickSpeed Special
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Location: Limbo
 
Molto Verboso
@wp2 avatar
79' P210 GickSpeed Special
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Posts: 1407
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UTC quote
Tips?

1.) Built in helmet holder.

-Lift seat, put buckle strap around the seat hinge, close seat.

2.) Lost kill switch spring?

-Take apart a BIC lighter and trim the spring's length to fit.
@ginch avatar
UTC

Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8622
Location: Victoria, Australia
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
@ginch avatar
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8622
Location: Victoria, Australia
UTC quote
astromags wrote:
I don't have the patience for anything other than pop rivets. I used my stacked-nut technique(formerly stacked washer/steel spacer technique, but I lost my spacer). Basically stack a couple of small
Nuts on the pin since the riveter won't fit between the rails. Works perfectly. If I didn't have to drill the rails to match the original holes, it would have only taken an hour.

(Edit) Also you have to snip the edges of the rivet heads just a hair so they will fit the end caps.
External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text
⚠️ Last edited by Ginch on UTC; edited 1 time
OP
@v_oodoo avatar
UTC

Style Maven
'74 50s x3 '87 PK125XL '92 PK50XLS Plurimatic - & - '58 AllState '68 Sprint '66(?) Super125 and '72 DanMotor Super150
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@v_oodoo avatar
'74 50s x3 '87 PK125XL '92 PK50XLS Plurimatic - & - '58 AllState '68 Sprint '66(?) Super125 and '72 DanMotor Super150
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UTC quote
Good find Ginch. I ground two flats on the sides of the mandrel nose to fit it between the floor trim edges, but this easier & non-destructive. Thanx, Astro.

Here's my find, SO much easier than doing by hand.

I would add that if the parts is all greasy & nasty I like to toss into a big jar & half fill with old gasoline. Cap it, gently shake and it's ready for the next step with nearly all that goo all gone.
Ruan wrote:
I seldom do something that takes allot of time and effort without trying to think up a plan to do it easier faster or better. Exactly that happened when I started cleaning the first of a bucket full of rusted nuts and bolts. My first idea was to use my dremel with a wire brush, to be honest it took so long that by the time that I would have finished all of them the selling of petrol would have been banned by the UN.

Then the a idea dawned on me to use some kind of acid to magically etch the dirt and rust formed over the last 47 years of. I then got some swimming pool acid from my local hardware store and employed the little bit of chemistry knowledge that I got in school to build my own miniature acid dipping plant.

I took thin pieces of stainless steal wire, tied it to each part that needed cleaning and dipped it into the pool acid for 10 minutes. After taking it out I neutralized the acid by dipping it into a bicarbonate of soda and water mixture that I made.

With absolutely no effort the parts came out looking like they where just made in the factory!!!! now that's what I call easy. I hope that I haven't taken to many years of my life expectancy with the fumes that got me a couple of times, please be careful when trying this

http://rdeyzel.blogspot.com/
External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text
@ginch avatar
UTC

Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8622
Location: Victoria, Australia
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
@ginch avatar
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
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Posts: 8622
Location: Victoria, Australia
UTC quote
That one is great, really great!
@oopsclunkthud avatar
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Banned
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Banned
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UTC quote
The acid will take any zinc or cad plating off as well. If you want to preserve it evaporust will do the trick.
@wp2 avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
79' P210 GickSpeed Special
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1407
Location: Limbo
 
Molto Verboso
@wp2 avatar
79' P210 GickSpeed Special
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1407
Location: Limbo
UTC quote
Greese+Travel Sized Toothpaste Tube+Syringe=Portable Cable Lube
@icloudfiles avatar
UTC

Hooked
1978 Vespa P125X, 150 Top End, SIP Road 2.0 Exhaust
Joined: UTC
Posts: 189
Location: New York
 
Hooked
@icloudfiles avatar
1978 Vespa P125X, 150 Top End, SIP Road 2.0 Exhaust
Joined: UTC
Posts: 189
Location: New York
UTC quote
Re: Fool Proof Cable Replacement
This wouldnt work if your old outer cable was really old and is snagging? Because you will not be able to feed the wire thru? Basically, i tried to change the inner cable yesterday and wasnt able to because it wouldn't go past a certain point. I tried twisting and turning the inner cable with tons of grease and nothing worked. Going to replace the outer cable today.. thoughts? thanks.
Vader19 wrote:
This is a fool proof way to replace your cables (Inners and outers)

Don't mess around with electrical tape, duct tape, Gorilla tape etc.

1) Get a roll of 20-22 gauge steel wire (Any hardware store)

2) Cut a piece of the wire Twice the length of the cable + 1 foot on each end (just to be safe)

3) Pull the inner cable out of the outer sleeve while the outer sleeve is still in place on the scooter.

4) Feed the steel wire through the OLD cable outer.

5) Remove the inner cable from the NEW cable. (set aside)

6) Slide the NEW cable outer over the remainder of the steel wire (the 1st 1/2 of the length of wire has already been fed through the OLD cable outer.

7) With the steel wire running through both the new and old cable outers, simply pull the OLD outer while pushing the NEW outer with your other hand. (you can tie a knot in the steel wire, but it's really not necessary) The steel wire will guide the path for the NEW cable outer and Wha-la! Your new outer will be in place.

8) Pull the steel wire out from both outers. (toss the old outer, and save the steel wire for your other cables) (then save it for another day)

9) Feed the NEW cable INNER through the NEW outer!

DONE!

This method really is fool proof!.... and when it's this easy, it's actually fun!


* For the rear brake cable outer (since it dead-ends inside the frame tunnel, I simply pull the old outer off (leaving the old inner to slide the new outer onto), clip any frayed end off the old inner, and slide the new outer into place... then pull the OLD inner out from the Pedal side and slide the new inner in.
@vader19 avatar
UTC

Mr. Clean
P,SUPER,V90, 50 Special
Joined: UTC
Posts: 10205
Location: This is't my locker!
 
Mr. Clean
@vader19 avatar
P,SUPER,V90, 50 Special
Joined: UTC
Posts: 10205
Location: This is't my locker!
UTC quote
you need to change the outers.. use a stiff wire and you'll be able to (with a little poking and pushing back and forth) get it through the snag to continue w/ the method.. but don't wast your time pushing new inners through if your outer cables are torn up! if for some reason you can't even get good stiff wire through.. you'll have to pull the outer. and just start from scratch.. basically same approach, but just using wire as the 1st step.. you'll have to fish the wire through.. attach an outer cable to it.. pull IT through, then insert your inner....

to replace your outer.. just hook it to the old outer and pull it through! I use very neatly cut (long on both sides) guerilla tape! (IF I don't have a wire through.. which I usually do) Push on one cable and Pull on the other simultaneously as you're running the new outer.
@astromags avatar
UTC

Veni, Vidi, Posti
'80 P200E, '76 Primavera 125 ET3. '59 Vespa 150
Joined: UTC
Posts: 6897
Location: GT, Texas
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
@astromags avatar
'80 P200E, '76 Primavera 125 ET3. '59 Vespa 150
Joined: UTC
Posts: 6897
Location: GT, Texas
UTC quote
???
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
@oopsclunkthud avatar
UTC

Banned
3:5
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8936
Location: San Francisco
 
Banned
@oopsclunkthud avatar
3:5
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8936
Location: San Francisco
UTC quote
Seal Removal
Some times you need to pull a seal but don't want to split cases or risk damaging the seal surface with a hook.
Drill a small hole in the seal, just enough to go through the metal.
Drill a small hole in the seal, just enough to go through the metal.
Get a small "dent puller" slide hammer with a sheet metal screw at the tip.
Get a small "dent puller" slide hammer with a sheet metal screw at the tip.
Slowly with light taps is the way to go.
Slowly with light taps is the way to go.
And done.
And done.
@astromags avatar
UTC

Veni, Vidi, Posti
'80 P200E, '76 Primavera 125 ET3. '59 Vespa 150
Joined: UTC
Posts: 6897
Location: GT, Texas
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
@astromags avatar
'80 P200E, '76 Primavera 125 ET3. '59 Vespa 150
Joined: UTC
Posts: 6897
Location: GT, Texas
UTC quote
....
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
@vespigi avatar
UTC

Hooked
'62 TV175, '70 GP-RB250, '74 Rally 200. '03 PX200E
Joined: UTC
Posts: 323
Location: South Africa
 
Hooked
@vespigi avatar
'62 TV175, '70 GP-RB250, '74 Rally 200. '03 PX200E
Joined: UTC
Posts: 323
Location: South Africa
UTC quote
The threaded holes on my headset were stripped. Instead of re-tapping them and continuously worrying about over tightening the headlight screws I made this.
Strip of steel bent into a semi circle with 3 holes drilled at the 3, 6 and 9 o’clock positions and nuts brazed or soldered over the holes.
Strip of steel bent into a semi circle with 3 holes drilled at the 3, 6 and 9 o’clock positions and nuts brazed or soldered over the holes.
Now I can tighten up the headlight screws nice and tight without worrying about stripping threads.
Now I can tighten up the headlight screws nice and tight without worrying about stripping threads.
OP
@v_oodoo avatar
UTC

Style Maven
'74 50s x3 '87 PK125XL '92 PK50XLS Plurimatic - & - '58 AllState '68 Sprint '66(?) Super125 and '72 DanMotor Super150
Joined: UTC
Posts: 9549
Location: seattle/athens
 
Style Maven
@v_oodoo avatar
'74 50s x3 '87 PK125XL '92 PK50XLS Plurimatic - & - '58 AllState '68 Sprint '66(?) Super125 and '72 DanMotor Super150
Joined: UTC
Posts: 9549
Location: seattle/athens
UTC quote
Smallframe Jet Change & Tap Lever hack
This is intended primarily for the smallframes with their unfortunate requirement to nearly disassemble the fuel system to change jets.
Running that lever thru the hole or putting this damn clip on unseen every time is no fun & gets annoying with repetition, like when you're trying jet sizes.

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

I finally tossed the retainer clip and added a collar & spring to the tap lever shaft inside the frame.
I ground the end of the shaft to a 'blunt screwdriver' tip to fit the slot inside the tap valve pocket. I use good fuel line that just presses on, no clamp.

To change a jet, I first yank the tank(easy now - a few easy bolts & a hose pulled off, the lever stays in place).
Then with the filter/baffle box off, just pull the carb still connected to the cables, flip it over pull float bowl & swap jet.
Have a pan under to catch the tablespoon+ of gas coming out the drain hole.

After the tank's back in, pull lever out against spring & poke around blind until you find where to put the tip. Use your hand from behind to guide it.
After the first couple times you'll find it easy just like after your honeymoon. Shhh emoticon

Sounds complicated but not really and it's fast and it works.
astromags wrote:
Ginch wrote:
Put that one in the Tips & Tricks file, Mr Voodoo!
With pictures... I'm lost.
Sadly this trick won't work on all those taps that don't have a slot at the bottom of the lever hole, but I think most original smallie taps do.

I used to just leave the lever out when trying different jets, then use a long screwdriver to turn gas on & off just to save time & frustration. Then I'd hook up the lever at the end with lots of naughty words when I thought I had the best jet installed , probably not...

It finally dawned on me that I could convert another old broken lever into a permanent spring loaded 'screwdriver' and save a lot of time & trouble. The spring pushes against inside of frame(probably a big washer in the stack too) and against the collar on the shaft, pushing the tip if the rod into the slot. Now you don't need that weird clip to hold it in there.

You can even choose to put it in 180 degrees off to fool Vespa thieves, the Off position will be On & vice versa. Or maybe fool yourself, as I recall once

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

Pics found:

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

PS Vespigi, nice one - love a good fabricated metal bodge fix that is effective, hidden & reversible!
@fatbear5 avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
1977 P200, 1980 P200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1225
Location: Fresno, CA
 
Molto Verboso
@fatbear5 avatar
1977 P200, 1980 P200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1225
Location: Fresno, CA
UTC quote
Repairing a Roll Bag
I found a way to restore the shape a collapsed roll bag... sort of.

I was disappointed that my roll bag collapsed within a year of purchase and further disappointed that the rep from the US Distribuitor with whom I spoke could only suggest that perhaps an upholsterer could replace the stiffener in the cover flap. The stiffener had crumbled so that the flap no longer held its shape. I spoke with a shoemaker (no upholsterers nearby) who could replace the stiffener but for about 1/3 of the cost of the new bag. Not practical so I'll live with a floppy flap.

On the other hand I was able to restore general shape of the bag by using two (actually 4) very large hose clamps. I didn't have two 28 inch hose clamps but I had four 14 inch clamps and joined them together into two circles and then expanded them until they fit snugly inside the bag on each side. The clamps are placed up against the two interior side walls and hold the entire bag in a "full" shape.

I know the shape of the bag is No Big Deal,... but I think it looks better now... and I had nothing else to do last weekend.
Flap should be stiff so that it can conform to the shape of the bag
Flap should be stiff so that it can conform to the shape of the bag
Collapsed bag
Collapsed bag
Another view of collapsed bag
Another view of collapsed bag
Four hose clamps made into two
Four hose clamps made into two
With hose clamps inside bag
With hose clamps inside bag
Another view of bag with hose clamps.  Looks much better
Another view of bag with hose clamps. Looks much better
@warhorse avatar
UTC

Hooked
'80 Bajaj chetak, '05 LML
Joined: UTC
Posts: 486
Location: Sydney
 
Hooked
@warhorse avatar
'80 Bajaj chetak, '05 LML
Joined: UTC
Posts: 486
Location: Sydney
UTC quote
Cheap DIY engine bushes
Reposted here as requested. If you're short of cash and want new engine bushes read on....My engine mount bushes were really shitty so was looking at options for replacements. I happened to have a new rubber roller from a boat trailer hanging around so thought I'd have a go at making my own.

The roller is high density rubber with an advertised durometer of 75-85. According to the Claus mount site their bushes are rated at 70 and stock are about 65.

I cut the roller with a hack saw and shaped with a bench grinder to form the two bushes required. I reused the original metal sleeve and washes and pressed in place with nuts and washes on a threaded rod.

I've ridden on them for about 100km now and handling is fantastic compared to how it was. Nice and rigid. Vibrations are up a little but only through the floor and I can live with it. No extra vibes through the grips or mirrors. Overall I'm very happy. The roller in photo below is only worth $5
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