@bigben avatar
UTC

Evil
p2, jet2, lml166
Joined: UTC
Posts: 666
Location: Philadelphia, United States
 
Evil
@bigben avatar
p2, jet2, lml166
Joined: UTC
Posts: 666
Location: Philadelphia, United States
UTC quote
SFvsr wrote:
This link will take you to my Flickr set with the how I did it. Incredibly simple.
1. Get some lights
2. Get some rubber stoppers and a M12 bolt with nylok nut and a stack of stainless washers (I used 3)
3. Drill a hole
4. Install assembly
5. Connect to power.

This will also work for a Vespa with zero changes.

I will be updating the set to include the rear of the assembly, the dimensions of the stoppers, and the wiring.


External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text
Hella Lamp on Jet 200 by SFvsr, on Flickr
please. i want to put one additional on my p2.
@travisnj avatar
UTC

Primasarah
1979 P200E, 1977 Rally 200, 1974 Primavera
Joined: UTC
Posts: 3087
Location: Lake Worth, FL
 
Primasarah
@travisnj avatar
1979 P200E, 1977 Rally 200, 1974 Primavera
Joined: UTC
Posts: 3087
Location: Lake Worth, FL
UTC quote
Chris, does it run off the AC of your bike?
OP
@v_oodoo avatar
UTC

Style Maven
'74 50s x3 '87 PK125XL '92 PK50XLS Plurimatic - & - '58 AllState '68 Sprint '66(?) Super125 and '72 DanMotor Super150
Joined: UTC
Posts: 9541
Location: seattle/athens
 
Style Maven
@v_oodoo avatar
'74 50s x3 '87 PK125XL '92 PK50XLS Plurimatic - & - '58 AllState '68 Sprint '66(?) Super125 and '72 DanMotor Super150
Joined: UTC
Posts: 9541
Location: seattle/athens
UTC quote
Bargain Mirror Mounts
(Travis - I just hooked a switch to a fuse & the battery on my Cosa.)

I just love this one, thanks Mr Eastwood! Did you make the rear rack out of something you repurposed too?
Clinteastwood wrote:
Ever notice it's hard to see past your elbows in your rear-view mirrrors? Aftermarket brackets and stems are expensive and long ones are a little hard to come by. I was poking around a building supply junkyard one day and found what I thought would be the perfect answer--an L-shaped piece of steel with holes drilled in almost the exact location I needed for the bolts (just under the handlebars) attaching my P125Xs mirror brackets.

Trouble was........there was only one of them--but how could I go wrong for only $3? Later I found out where to get another identical one for the other mirror--brand new--only $8--at your local garage door opener shop. It's called a J arm. I had to drill the holes just slightly larger to make them fit, and put a color-matched bolt-nut in the extra hole, but from there it was a simple bolt-on mod.

Now my wide body can more safely ride my wide body.

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@ginch avatar
UTC

Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8619
Location: Victoria, Australia
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
@ginch avatar
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8619
Location: Victoria, Australia
UTC quote
Rob98801 wrote:
I run tubes in my tubeless tires, when I mount the tubes I just slightly inflate them so they don't get pinched as the rims comes together. Just makes it a little easier I think.
OP
@v_oodoo avatar
UTC

Style Maven
'74 50s x3 '87 PK125XL '92 PK50XLS Plurimatic - & - '58 AllState '68 Sprint '66(?) Super125 and '72 DanMotor Super150
Joined: UTC
Posts: 9541
Location: seattle/athens
 
Style Maven
@v_oodoo avatar
'74 50s x3 '87 PK125XL '92 PK50XLS Plurimatic - & - '58 AllState '68 Sprint '66(?) Super125 and '72 DanMotor Super150
Joined: UTC
Posts: 9541
Location: seattle/athens
UTC quote
Reference Links attached
I have edited the first entry on page one so it will be easier to steer new ppl to this info without having to post it every time separately.

PLEASE let me know of other useful links for reliable info, and I'll add to the list.

Thanks.
OP
@v_oodoo avatar
UTC

Style Maven
'74 50s x3 '87 PK125XL '92 PK50XLS Plurimatic - & - '58 AllState '68 Sprint '66(?) Super125 and '72 DanMotor Super150
Joined: UTC
Posts: 9541
Location: seattle/athens
 
Style Maven
@v_oodoo avatar
'74 50s x3 '87 PK125XL '92 PK50XLS Plurimatic - & - '58 AllState '68 Sprint '66(?) Super125 and '72 DanMotor Super150
Joined: UTC
Posts: 9541
Location: seattle/athens
UTC quote
Front Disk Brake Master Cylinder DIY
External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

Disc brake setup for oldie

Thinking about a front disk brake conversion? Here's a nice project thread with lots of pics by Mr Ginch. Clap emoticon Great job on the brake AND the writeup, thanks.
@ginch avatar
UTC

Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8619
Location: Victoria, Australia
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
@ginch avatar
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8619
Location: Victoria, Australia
UTC quote
A rack is a nice thing to have, especially when it's attached to a cool scoot like Voodoo's.

It's not something I like to see all the time though, I just put it on when I need it. So instead of doing up the long clamp bolts when I use it, I took them off altogether and use a rubber bungee cord hooked on the legshield edges... takes maybe 30 seconds to fit or remove. Not recommended in high-pilferage neighbourhoods!

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text
@fatbear5 avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
1977 P200, 1980 P200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1223
Location: Fresno, CA
 
Molto Verboso
@fatbear5 avatar
1977 P200, 1980 P200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1223
Location: Fresno, CA
UTC quote
The bicycle bell is a nice touch!
@beechey avatar
UTC

Enthusiast
vnb 59
Joined: UTC
Posts: 83
Location: coventry
 
Enthusiast
@beechey avatar
vnb 59
Joined: UTC
Posts: 83
Location: coventry
UTC quote
great read
OP
@v_oodoo avatar
UTC

Style Maven
'74 50s x3 '87 PK125XL '92 PK50XLS Plurimatic - & - '58 AllState '68 Sprint '66(?) Super125 and '72 DanMotor Super150
Joined: UTC
Posts: 9541
Location: seattle/athens
 
Style Maven
@v_oodoo avatar
'74 50s x3 '87 PK125XL '92 PK50XLS Plurimatic - & - '58 AllState '68 Sprint '66(?) Super125 and '72 DanMotor Super150
Joined: UTC
Posts: 9541
Location: seattle/athens
UTC quote
Bodywork tips
From todays posts, this time a couple of bodywork hints:
V oodoo wrote:
318ti wrote:
...
Muti colors can trick the eyes so I like to then shoot a light coat of primer. Then work it with the hammers. To check your work spray a mist of another color over it and sand with a block. Paint stays in the low spots.
Plus one on this tip. I buy 3 or 4 different color primers for exactly this reason, and switch off on each pass at fixing the places needing more bodywork. I can always tell how deep I am & what needs pushing out a little more.

Nice if you can do all metal and have it look good. If it was beat up w/ lot's of dents & dings, that might be tuff, unless you can do some of the old school work mentioned above.

If not, here's another tip I learned from a pro if you're gonna do any skim coating on the rough areas. I assume you already know NOT to use Bondo, use only a pro grade product that is designed to flex with the sheet metal or you WILL have cracking over time. The little tip is before you apply your skim coat, lightly hammer any shiny bare metal high spots back into the frame( or cowl, etc) slightly so they are no longer 'high'. Now when you sand down your skimcoat, they won't all just reappear.
@ginch avatar
UTC

Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8619
Location: Victoria, Australia
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
@ginch avatar
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8619
Location: Victoria, Australia
UTC quote
Measuring ring gap
Here's one that I keep coming back to:
chuckactor wrote:
Before you put the cylinder on it's good to check the ring gap. You do this by inserting the rings into the cylinder. You can use the piston to press them in and make sure they are square to the bore. The Pinasco kit does not come with any recommended guidelines. I used the following rule of thumb:

Compression ring - 0.004" per inch of bore
2nd ring - 0.005" per inch of bore

Just multiply the bore diameter in inches (2.72") by the guideline. For the top ring it works out to around 0.011" and the 2nd ring is about 0.014". The stock ring gap measured around 0.009". I used a small flat file to adjust the gap of the rings. If you want to spend some more time with a file, you can use a round file to round the edges of the ring end that goes against the locating pin in the piston. This is an old racing trick. The idea is to keep the sharp edge of the ring from rubbing against the piston ring pin and working it out of the top of the piston. If that tiny little pin falls out then the ring is free to rotate. Usually it will rotate around until the ends of the ring are inside one of the ports. At this point the ring jams in the port and all hell breaks loose...


External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text
Full thread - P200 Performance Build-Up

Edit: (this will appear further down the page but it's useful to have it here)
spiderwebb wrote:
The measuring should be done a bit further into the bore than is shown in this picture. Use the piston to even slide the rings in question into bore as is shown in picture. When piston gudgeon pin is 1/2 gone remove piston and measure the ring end gap. Repeat with other ring.

As you all know the bore is tapered a very slight amount from the bottom to the top. This is done so that after a barrel gets up to temp it is a perfect cylinder top to bottom and vice versa.
⚠️ Last edited by Ginch on UTC; edited 2 times
@alanmac avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
'74 Rally, '72 Sprint
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1147
Location: Melbourne, London, Durham NC
 
Molto Verboso
@alanmac avatar
'74 Rally, '72 Sprint
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1147
Location: Melbourne, London, Durham NC
UTC quote
Ginch wrote:
Here's one that I keep coming back to:
chuckactor wrote:
Before you put the cylinder on it's good to check the ring gap. You do this by inserting the rings into the cylinder. You can use the piston to press them in and make sure they are square to the bore. The Pinasco kit does not come with any recommended guidelines. I used the following rule of thumb:

Compression ring - 0.004" per inch of bore
2nd ring - 0.005" per inch of bore

Just multiply the bore diameter in inches (2.72") by the guideline. For the top ring it works out to around 0.011" and the 2nd ring is about 0.014". The stock ring gap measured around 0.009". I used a small flat file to adjust the gap of the rings. If you want to spend some more time with a file, you can use a round file to round the edges of the ring end that goes against the locating pin in the piston. This is an old racing trick. The idea is to keep the sharp edge of the ring from rubbing against the piston ring pin and working it out of the top of the piston. If that tiny little pin falls out then the ring is free to rotate. Usually it will rotate around until the ends of the ring are inside one of the ports. At this point the ring jams in the port and all hell breaks loose...


External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text
Full thread - P200 Performance Build-Up
Great timing Ginch. I am putting my bike back together this weekend, with new pinasco kit. Fingers crossed the whole things goes smoothly. Would live it to be on the road next week. I think we are due to see the sun.
OP
@v_oodoo avatar
UTC

Style Maven
'74 50s x3 '87 PK125XL '92 PK50XLS Plurimatic - & - '58 AllState '68 Sprint '66(?) Super125 and '72 DanMotor Super150
Joined: UTC
Posts: 9541
Location: seattle/athens
 
Style Maven
@v_oodoo avatar
'74 50s x3 '87 PK125XL '92 PK50XLS Plurimatic - & - '58 AllState '68 Sprint '66(?) Super125 and '72 DanMotor Super150
Joined: UTC
Posts: 9541
Location: seattle/athens
UTC quote
Main jets cheap and Choke Detent
Good catch Ginch. And here's a tip I've posted elsewhere a couple of times, but Spidey includes a link. They also have sets for smallframe carbs.
YAY Jet200! Clap emoticon
spiderwebb wrote:
check the Jet200.com site
look in the vespas section

there should be a set of jets for your carb there
great deal
BGM jets

10 for 15 bucks


if you buy one at a time each costs 4.99 plus shipping


here is a link for the SI carb
http://jet200.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=2135
Abuello wrote:
Hey Lynnb
To improve the holding grip of that choke clip, I marked the choke stem at the point the represented being "full on". I used a Dremel tiny cutting tool and scored a shallow grove (detent) in the stem. This is an awesome improvement.
...
Thanks Ken, so simple but effective!
@ginch avatar
UTC

Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8619
Location: Victoria, Australia
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
@ginch avatar
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8619
Location: Victoria, Australia
UTC quote
Cylinder head temperature sensor location
Here's a question that always comes up, so it's great to see it answered so well here - CHT Location

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text
@jimvanmorrissey avatar
UTC

Addicted
Vespa PX200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 550
Location: Belgrade
 
Addicted
@jimvanmorrissey avatar
Vespa PX200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 550
Location: Belgrade
UTC quote
After years of struggling with heat guns and drifts and hammering and cursing to get my bearings in -- and sometimes damaging things in the process -- I finally, on a whim, tried the bake-your-engine-cases-in-the-oven trick. 30 minutes at 200 C later, I was all ready to go with my hammer and drifts and THOOP! My fly side bearing (which sat overnight in the freezer) just dropped in with a little force from my thumb.

I am a convert. I can't remember the last time a trick like this brought me such joy.

And no, I'm not embarrassed by that last statement. This is frickin' awesome.
@mr10 avatar
UTC

Hooked
150 GLx, Rally 200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 256
Location: Netherlands
 
Hooked
@mr10 avatar
150 GLx, Rally 200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 256
Location: Netherlands
UTC quote
Heard from an old mechanic they used to use hot plates for warming carters and dropping in bearings back in the day.
@bigben avatar
UTC

Evil
p2, jet2, lml166
Joined: UTC
Posts: 666
Location: Philadelphia, United States
 
Evil
@bigben avatar
p2, jet2, lml166
Joined: UTC
Posts: 666
Location: Philadelphia, United States
UTC quote
been thinking of doing this for a bit. tried colored thin velcro strips i used to color code front-of-house sound system cables with, but they were a little too short. Reg velcro strips may work, but in the meantime i'm using tube clamps. the containers are from home depot. i've just been meaning to utilize under my seat for storage for some time, free up some room in the old squirrel box.

my girlfriend weighs a buck twenty and says she cant feel it. i'm going to be lining the back end of the seat three up before long.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
@fatbear5 avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
1977 P200, 1980 P200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1223
Location: Fresno, CA
 
Molto Verboso
@fatbear5 avatar
1977 P200, 1980 P200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1223
Location: Fresno, CA
UTC quote
I agree with BigBen Underseat space can be very useful. I have various papers in the envelope in the plastic bag under the springs and I have a lightweight windbreaker in a plastic bag under the bungie cord... and of course, I have the bungie cord if I ever need it. Keeps me from cluttering up my glove box.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
@fatbear5 avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
1977 P200, 1980 P200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1223
Location: Fresno, CA
 
Molto Verboso
@fatbear5 avatar
1977 P200, 1980 P200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1223
Location: Fresno, CA
UTC quote
I've been doing the chain-through-the-sleeves trick to lock my jacket to my luggage rack for a long time but I've just come up with something more convenient.

I added a grommet to the right side of the hem of my jacket just below the pocket and now I thread it through the helmet lock along with the helmet.

Of course, it won't stop the serious thief, however it might deter him enough that he moves on to the next scooter.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
@ginch avatar
UTC

Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8619
Location: Victoria, Australia
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
@ginch avatar
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8619
Location: Victoria, Australia
UTC quote
Correct gear orientation
Vader19 wrote:
These are P200 gears.. all of these pics show the OUTER side of the gear, meaning the side you would see from the engine side of the bike while putting the gears on the shaft.
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All gears Outer faces

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1st gear Outer face

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2nd gear Outer face

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3rd gear Outer face

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4th gear Outer face
@ginch avatar
UTC

Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8619
Location: Victoria, Australia
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
@ginch avatar
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8619
Location: Victoria, Australia
UTC quote
Vader19 wrote:
Here are pics at an angle of the INSIDE of each of the 4 gears..
Again, these are the INSIDE faces of the gears, facing Away from you as you put them into the motor.
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1st gear Inside face

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2nd gear Inside face

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3rd gear Inside face

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4th gear Inside face

Thanks to Vader for the pics and effort!
@ginch avatar
UTC

Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8619
Location: Victoria, Australia
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
@ginch avatar
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8619
Location: Victoria, Australia
UTC quote
Vader19 wrote:
Here's one of my EFL stacks all together... you can see the spacing
External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text
OP
@v_oodoo avatar
UTC

Style Maven
'74 50s x3 '87 PK125XL '92 PK50XLS Plurimatic - & - '58 AllState '68 Sprint '66(?) Super125 and '72 DanMotor Super150
Joined: UTC
Posts: 9541
Location: seattle/athens
 
Style Maven
@v_oodoo avatar
'74 50s x3 '87 PK125XL '92 PK50XLS Plurimatic - & - '58 AllState '68 Sprint '66(?) Super125 and '72 DanMotor Super150
Joined: UTC
Posts: 9541
Location: seattle/athens
UTC quote
old tip simplified
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I didn't have my 2 grooved visegrips with me, so what to do...

Eureka! If you have a couple extra pinch bolt handy just use them .
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
You can see it works on smallies too.
You can see it works on smallies too.
@subetherbass avatar
UTC

Ossessionato
1997 Italjet Formula 125, 2 matching N.Z. '69 VBC Super, 177cc Racer, VespaCross Bodge, Puch SRA150, Piaggio Zip 100! & others
Joined: UTC
Posts: 4737
Location: Australa, Mate
 
Ossessionato
@subetherbass avatar
1997 Italjet Formula 125, 2 matching N.Z. '69 VBC Super, 177cc Racer, VespaCross Bodge, Puch SRA150, Piaggio Zip 100! & others
Joined: UTC
Posts: 4737
Location: Australa, Mate
UTC quote
I upgraded my couch, and as th old one was heading to th gate it ended up next to my Vespa, they seemed like a good match! Padding to protect th paint and side panels, plus cushions to kneel on while working.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
⬆️    About 1 month elapsed    ⬇️
@jsunstar avatar
UTC

Addicted
07 GT200, Flip flops
Joined: UTC
Posts: 534
Location: Cayo Hueso: an Island at the end of the road
 
Addicted
@jsunstar avatar
07 GT200, Flip flops
Joined: UTC
Posts: 534
Location: Cayo Hueso: an Island at the end of the road
UTC quote
homemade spring puller for center stand spring:
i took a hardened phillips screwdriver and heated it up and bent it into an L at the end. (dipped it in oil
i buzzed a little notch into it to keep the spring from slipping off.
ive been using it for many many years for a ton of stuff but originally made it for springs on brakes.
it works very well and slips right off with a twist when you need it to.
its also good for grabbing washers that fall into weird places...
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
OP
@v_oodoo avatar
UTC

Style Maven
'74 50s x3 '87 PK125XL '92 PK50XLS Plurimatic - & - '58 AllState '68 Sprint '66(?) Super125 and '72 DanMotor Super150
Joined: UTC
Posts: 9541
Location: seattle/athens
 
Style Maven
@v_oodoo avatar
'74 50s x3 '87 PK125XL '92 PK50XLS Plurimatic - & - '58 AllState '68 Sprint '66(?) Super125 and '72 DanMotor Super150
Joined: UTC
Posts: 9541
Location: seattle/athens
UTC quote
Clutch assembly & fuel leak detection - twofer
Here's how I reassembled my smallframe clutch. The horizontal orientation made it easy to get everything aligned properly. Using a 27mm socket and a short extension gives you plenty of room to work. I turned the drill chuck all the way closed so it pilots nicely into the square hole in the extension.

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

While my corks were soaking I tracked down a fuel leak that wasn't fixed with a new float needle and was bugging me(I often forget to turn off the fuel tap ). I like to test the WHOLE system so I hang the tank from bungees & the carb from some bailing wire. Open the fuel tap and observe...

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

In this case the little red fiber washer on the inlet fitting bolt was too far gone & needed to be replaced. No more puddles! Razz emoticon
UTC

Addicted
SS208, SX250 , RD's and a K1300s and an RZ350 and TZR250
Joined: UTC
Posts: 567
 
Addicted
SS208, SX250 , RD's and a K1300s and an RZ350 and TZR250
Joined: UTC
Posts: 567
UTC quote
nice on the manual press!
@ginch avatar
UTC

Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8619
Location: Victoria, Australia
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
@ginch avatar
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8619
Location: Victoria, Australia
UTC quote
Engine mount removal - TrumpyScooter method
You can click on the pictures for bigger versions.
TrumpyScooter wrote:
Need to replace the rubber engine mount bushings ?

Time to do: 40 minutes
What you need to start with

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

Wiggle a slotted screwdriver between the 2 rods and force a washer in between.

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Repeat using another smaller diameter washer. Also leverage the rod apart as much as possible.

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and another. Try and get at least 1cm distance with the washers. a nut will go there eventually.

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Regularly jam the screwdriver down the side of the rubber to relieve the pressure youve made by putting the washers between the rods. Wiggle the tube by oscilating the screwdriver down through the tube. By now youve got some of the rubber showing at the end. If the rubber is old and flacid then youll need more washers. Likewise if the rod is stripping out from the centre.

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

Now youll need some 10mm threaded rod for the rear (6 mm for the front) with at least 2 inches past the centre of the tubes.
Replace the washers with a nut. Then pass the rod down the tubes and thread it onto the nut. i just used a small piston ring compressor as a spacer at the other end, but any thing that will sit on the outside diameter of the case will do. I slid a puller collet down the rod to sit on top of the spacer. But again there will be other things you can use. It will need to be sturdy though as there is a few pounds of pressure on them. Use a spanner to stop the nut from turning, and it will pull the bush out. Put a *EDIT* NYLOC nut on the end of the rod and tap * THE FREE END, PUT A NUT ON IT SO YOU DONT DAMAGE THE THREADS* to shock the bush to release, but its rubber so it may not work. every little bit helps.

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

Now its out enough, oscilate the screwdriver down the tube to release it even more then it should come clear pretty easliy.

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

Cheers
⚠️ Last edited by Ginch on UTC; edited 1 time
@spiderwebb avatar
UTC

Addicted
Joined: UTC
Posts: 629
 
Addicted
@spiderwebb avatar
Joined: UTC
Posts: 629
UTC quote
Re: Measuring ring gap
Ginch wrote:
Here's one that I keep coming back to:
chuckactor wrote:
Before you put the cylinder on it's good to check the ring gap. You do this by inserting the rings into the cylinder. You can use the piston to press them in and make sure they are square to the bore. The Pinasco kit does not come with any recommended guidelines. I used the following rule of thumb:

Compression ring - 0.004" per inch of bore
2nd ring - 0.005" per inch of bore

Just multiply the bore diameter in inches (2.72") by the guideline. For the top ring it works out to around 0.011" and the 2nd ring is about 0.014". The stock ring gap measured around 0.009". I used a small flat file to adjust the gap of the rings. If you want to spend some more time with a file, you can use a round file to round the edges of the ring end that goes against the locating pin in the piston. This is an old racing trick. The idea is to keep the sharp edge of the ring from rubbing against the piston ring pin and working it out of the top of the piston. If that tiny little pin falls out then the ring is free to rotate. Usually it will rotate around until the ends of the ring are inside one of the ports. At this point the ring jams in the port and all hell breaks loose...


External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text
Full thread - P200 Performance Build-Up
The measuring should be done a bit further into the bore than is shown in this picture. Use the piston to even slide the rings in question into bore as is shown in picture. When piston gudgeon pin is 1/2 gone remove piston and measure the ring end gap. Repeat with other ring.

As you all know the bore is tapered a very slight amount from the bottom to the top. This is done so that after a barrel gets up to temp it is a perfect cylinder top to bottom and vice versa.
@ginch avatar
UTC

Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8619
Location: Victoria, Australia
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
@ginch avatar
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8619
Location: Victoria, Australia
UTC quote
Thanks Spiderwebb, I edited the original post to include your info.
OP
@v_oodoo avatar
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Style Maven
'74 50s x3 '87 PK125XL '92 PK50XLS Plurimatic - & - '58 AllState '68 Sprint '66(?) Super125 and '72 DanMotor Super150
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Location: seattle/athens
 
Style Maven
@v_oodoo avatar
'74 50s x3 '87 PK125XL '92 PK50XLS Plurimatic - & - '58 AllState '68 Sprint '66(?) Super125 and '72 DanMotor Super150
Joined: UTC
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Location: seattle/athens
UTC quote
Eliminating the battery on a Rally
Put where it can be found more easily, I'm getting ready to do it. Thanks to Chris for the info.
SFvsr wrote:
Ground one of the yellows to the frame. Connect the other yellow to a 12v regulator*. Attach the wire out of the regulator to the primary red and the green/white. DON'T mess with any of the wires from the stator at the junction. Only stuff you mess with is on the battery side. Toss that battery in the garbage. And find a sucker who will buy that rectifier/regulator because it is "rare."

There you go Sherlock. It's pretty stupid fucking easy. Send me a Christmas card.

Oh - and don't change the bulbs from the 6v. Leave them and they'll be fine, believe it or not.
* Here's the recommended regulator

Edit: This seems to work well on any stator that has the two yellow wires coming out.
SEEMS to, no gaurantees but I did it to a Primavera and a Sprint w/ no problems so far and nice bright lights. Knock on wood.
⚠️ Last edited by V oodoo on UTC; edited 1 time
⬆️    About 2 months elapsed    ⬇️
@ginch avatar
UTC

Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8619
Location: Victoria, Australia
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
@ginch avatar
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8619
Location: Victoria, Australia
@markysparx avatar
UTC

Turnkey 79
2 helmets, 2 jackets, 4 spark plugs, 2 rear bulbs, some bolts, a spring, an ET rear rack, clear indicators and half a can of unleaded, but no bike!
Joined: UTC
Posts: 3646
Location: The British Countryside
 
Turnkey 79
@markysparx avatar
2 helmets, 2 jackets, 4 spark plugs, 2 rear bulbs, some bolts, a spring, an ET rear rack, clear indicators and half a can of unleaded, but no bike!
Joined: UTC
Posts: 3646
Location: The British Countryside
UTC quote
like this one
@markysparx avatar
UTC

Turnkey 79
2 helmets, 2 jackets, 4 spark plugs, 2 rear bulbs, some bolts, a spring, an ET rear rack, clear indicators and half a can of unleaded, but no bike!
Joined: UTC
Posts: 3646
Location: The British Countryside
 
Turnkey 79
@markysparx avatar
2 helmets, 2 jackets, 4 spark plugs, 2 rear bulbs, some bolts, a spring, an ET rear rack, clear indicators and half a can of unleaded, but no bike!
Joined: UTC
Posts: 3646
Location: The British Countryside
UTC quote
Spammers and wrenches into tool hooks
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
@willie_b avatar
UTC

Ossessionato
'20 300GTS Super Tec '09 250 GTSie '75 Rally 200 '79 P200 '09 Stella 221
Joined: UTC
Posts: 2610
Location: Midway, Kentucky
 
Ossessionato
@willie_b avatar
'20 300GTS Super Tec '09 250 GTSie '75 Rally 200 '79 P200 '09 Stella 221
Joined: UTC
Posts: 2610
Location: Midway, Kentucky
UTC quote
I picked up some really helpful tips reading this thread. I appreciate everyone's contributions. Has anyone considered placing this thread up in the stickies?
@ginch avatar
UTC

Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8619
Location: Victoria, Australia
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
@ginch avatar
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8619
Location: Victoria, Australia
UTC quote
How to tell a 3-port case from a 2-port
rob hodge wrote:
fun fact- want an easy way to identify two port cases from three port without any disassembly? the third port was added pretty much concurrently with the change in exhaust mounting. if there is a flat spot on the front of the swingarm and the hole for the exaust mounting bolt goes all the way thru the swingarm, it's a thee port case.
Thanks Rob.
⚠️ Last edited by Ginch on UTC; edited 2 times
@bholinath avatar
UTC

Addicted
Rally 200, SS 180, ET3
Joined: UTC
Posts: 688
Location: UK
 
Addicted
@bholinath avatar
Rally 200, SS 180, ET3
Joined: UTC
Posts: 688
Location: UK
UTC quote
Loose exhausts sip road ali cylinders
Trouble with exhaust coming lose on ali cylinder stub?

2 things to try - make a shim from an old aluminium drinks can and wrap around the stub. This should provide a better fit for the exhaust.

Cut another slot in the end of the pipe, the same length as the existing 2 x slots - see pic

I also added a spring i had laying around, hooked onto the exhaust clamp bolt and the other end hooked onto a hole i drilled in one of the cylinder head fins. it's more of a back up.
SIP Road
SIP Road
SIP Road
SIP Road
SIP Road
SIP Road
@ginch avatar
UTC

Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8619
Location: Victoria, Australia
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
@ginch avatar
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8619
Location: Victoria, Australia
UTC quote
You could do this too if you don't care how it looks.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
@bholinath avatar
UTC

Addicted
Rally 200, SS 180, ET3
Joined: UTC
Posts: 688
Location: UK
 
Addicted
@bholinath avatar
Rally 200, SS 180, ET3
Joined: UTC
Posts: 688
Location: UK
UTC quote
Ivor
hahahaha

a bit over engineered for me !!
⬆️    About 1 month elapsed    ⬇️
UTC

Molto Verboso
px200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1269
Location: london
 
Molto Verboso
px200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1269
Location: london
UTC quote
Hello

Replace the screws in Vespa cable terminals/trunnions with allen grub screws (but not the ones with points), also replaced the hex bolt holding the speedo cable plate on the front hub with a allen cap head screw.
Can use an offset allen key to tighten.

Grumpy
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