Modern Vespa

About $8 a can...

Stuff is just so cheap there SCG. It's unbeleivable sometimes. This is a typical price from a national parts & accessories store.

I used to have a hell of a time getting that little hairpin clip thru those two tiny holes when assembling the throttle/shift tubes & the end piece that gets the cable ends. Then I started doing this and it's much easier now.

Hello,
It's my trick for easy change of the rear wheel with the double trumpet SIP Road ! :tiphat:

There is a copy :



Tu as acheté un Sip Road avec 2 trompinettes et tu te dis que quand tu vas vouloir démonter ta roue arrière tu vas en chier ?

Que nenni , regarde :


Voilà l'objet ...





... Que tu coupes (à la scie à métaux) sans pitié





Tu trouves un bout de tube d'acier de 16mm intérieur





Tu en coupes 2 morceaux d'environ 3 cm de long
Que tu emmanches et soudes aux extrémités des trompinettes (toujours solidaires et au bon écartement puisque maintenues par la plaque en ferraille)





Après avoir percé , tu soudes maintenant 2 écrous





Dans lesquels viendront des vis qui dépasseront donc ainsi :
(tu les couperas par la suite à une longueur adéquate ou les choisiras de la bonne longueur)





Un petit coup de peinture haute-température





Et hop , tes trompinettes sont désormais démontables en 10 secondes mais néanmoins solidement fixées au pot par les vis en appui sur les 2 sorties.





Il ne reste plus qu'à s'émerveiller :
[size=75](et , à part pour les hérissons, les vis sont quasi-invisibles)

Want an unbelievably easy and fast way to clean oily gunk and grime off your engine, carb and other parts?

This stuff is unreal. I have tried many cleaners, degreasers, chemicals, all with varying success. This literally melts away the gunk and it evaporates quickly without leaving a dripping mess. Made for cleaning sensitive MAF sensors so very safe on rubber, plastic and paint. About $8 a can. A must have for clean freaks.

The blue haynes manual covers these engines very well.

1. both bearings go onto the crank
2. heat the clutch side case till water sizzles (I use a small squeeze bottle to test). before it cools down:
a. install the clutch side oil seal
b. install the crank
c. if you find you need to add more heat after installing the seal, do it from the clutch side and avoid the seal.
3. assemble the rest of the engine, gears... but not the clutch.
4. place the kickstart gear on the layshaft and the case gasket on the clutch side case
5. heat the fly side case till water sizzles. before it cools down:
a. install the clutch flywheel side oil seal (I put a bit of hylomar in the crease of the metal flange of the seal.
b. depress the kickstart lever
c. close the cases, make sure the crank, lay shaft, and final drive all line up with the fly side case.
d. After the case is closed (light taps with a soft hammer) make sure everything turns and then install the 4-5 nuts around the crank area and tighten them snug plus a bit.
e. make sure everything still turns and that the kickstart ratchets correctly, then torque the nuts around the crank
6. install and torque the rest of the case bolts.

There is a lot going on in step 5 in a very short amount of time so think it through and lay everything out.

A piece of rope.....

Where would we be without Parramatta rope Phil?

Is there a wee gap already in the cases indicating it has STARTED to move?? DONT force anything in between the halves.If there is no gap then push the kickstart down a bit or rotate the gears/wheel so the cruciform doesn't hold on
The reason it wont separate anymore is usually due to one of the main bearings jamming in the cases or jammed on the crank
I prefer to put hot scalding rags on the cases on the "bubble" behind the stator on the fly side(that s where said bearing is housed.) the cases will heat up and expand faster than the bearing or crank.
the cases will separate and youll either have the crank out with bearing on it.....or with the bearing still in the case half.
I actually boil the rags in a saucepan..lift them out with tongs and then lay it on the cases in a circle . then start gentle tapping with a rubber or copper mallet. Manipulate the entire motor so one case half so its locked solid against something firm.(and soft like wood) then all your little taps will be directed to the bearing and not slowly skidding the engine across the bench.
good luck
youll have it apart in the time it takes to post the tool...which also needs heat anyway.
Ive done close to 20 rebuilds with the rags method...and no special tool

Only the finest of ropes for me

Somebody gifted me a whole roll a while ago so I'm set for life.

-1
I used to do this but never again after a few horror stories

don't use soap as that can cause future issues of the tire rotating on the rim = pop



I use ultra holding hair spray
works great
drys and won't cause future issues

spray on the rims 1/2
build it all up as is normal
make sure tube is not getting pinched
add air and watch as the bead seats itself was easily = about 40psi

remove air to psi you want

done

...

Vespa workshop manuals & books : https://www.flickr.com/photos/culturesponge/collections/72157594588640890/

good luck
best
alex

This is golden! Thanks a million, Alex. :clap:

I have two Super frames and they each have a slightly different angle on that pin. So I would try to work out which angle is going to be easiest to remove the pin from. From memory I think the pedal has to be pushed fully down to get access to the pin... have a look at the pedal itself to confirm.

Hope these pictures are of some help.

Silicone spray lubricant, silicone oil, silicone grease, and dielectric grease all "rehydrate" old, dry rubber parts and o-rings. Works especially well on old, compacted o-rings or rubber gaskets that aren't sealing, it will cause them to swell. Also work great for water proofing electrical stuff, the spary lubricant and oil will penetrate down wire and insulation, while grease water proofs connectors and inside switches.

I know you already figured it out Astro, and nice post Jim.. but for any of you who are like me and can't read formulas and can only add, subtract and divide by 2:

What you'll need:
* Degree wheel
* Pointer (wire / coat hanger)
* Piston stopper
* Something to mark the cae and flywheel with (Sharpie / tiny paint brush / file etc.)


1 - Put the degree wheel on your crank / flywheel.

2 - Set up a pointer (piece of wire or coat hanger) on a flywheel cover screw.

3 - Put a piston stopper in the sparkplug hole.

4 - Roate the crank CLOCKWISE until the crown of the piston hits the stopper and it stops.

5 - Set the degree wheel to 0 (with the pointer) (Be careful not to move the degree wheel independantly of the flywheel when you're rotating the flywheel)

6 - Rotate the crank / flywheel COUNTER CLOCKWISE until it stops.

7 - Write this number down (we'll call this "number 1")

8 - Subtract "number 1"from 360 (the result will be "number 2")

9) Divide "number 2" by 2 (the result will be "number 3")

10 - Add "number 3" to "number 1" (the result will be "number 4")

11 - Remove the piston stopper.

12 - Continue to rotate the crank past where you stopped COUNTER CLOCKWISE until your degree wheel reads "number 4" at the pointer you've made out of a wire)

13 - Mark your flywheel and case here.. this is TDC..

Done!... It's that easy!



To get to say 18 degrees BTDC for example, rotate the flywheel COUNTER CLOCKWISE 18 degrees from your new TDC mark... Mark the flyweel.. this number will be to the RIGHT of your TDC mark on the flywheel.

4,000 RPM's is the official speed to check timing, I believe. Stock engines redline at 6,000, average tuned engines at 7-8,000.