Modern Vespa

OK, so I have the 35W, 5000K kit from DDM Tuning, which I understood to be "plug and play" from prior discussion, but I doesn't quite seem to be. I also can't find any kind of wiring guide on their site to help with how to connect everything, so I'm hoping one of you who has done this can help out.

Here's what I have:


Now, if I'm correct, X and A are to be connected, as are Y and B. But where do the others connect, where does the factory light connection go...and especially where do the wires labeled D and E link up to (obviously they're positive and negative, but...)?

OK, I think I might have this worked out, but I want to make sure I'm right, still.

Z to C
Y to B
X to A
D and E inserted into the factory headlight connector where the blades on the bulb would normally go?

If I have that right, then D and E feed the power from the factory light connector into the ballast, which outputs back to X/A and Y/B to feed the power on from the ballast to the bulb.

looks right from what you layed out.

You are spot on for the wiring.

Not sure what else you are planning but if you are pulling panels off anyway, you may want to look into adding an air-horn and possibly a 12v outlet.
They are fairly easy to install. The horn is slightly more work due to the need to add a relay.

Cool, good to know for sure, thanks. LOL. Check my sig list of mods...already have an air horn (needs to be reconnected it seems, but that connection is under a totally different set of panels from the lights, down under one of the footboards), and I have two weather-safe powerlet outlets on the left side of my dash.

When I do my 6K service in the near future I plan to install my sliders and fuzzy washer, my Flash2Pass, re-enable my air horn (I believe Sloans may have disconnected it during servicing last year), and put new, slightly smaller wiring in on the Powerlets. The wiring is because I believe the gauge used initially was a tad too big for the Fuzeblock FZ-1's ports, as my heated gear works fine but my GPS, when used with those parts, always cycles through the bootup sequence as if being plugged and unplugged, leading me to think the wires are too big to be seated securely.

I did HIDs on my 250 and took photos including those wires. See here

HiD install on my 250! With Pictures!!

The whole job can be done in about an hour. I suggest doing Jimc's. Headlight switch mod when doing both headlights. I do not like the warm up delay when switching to high beam.

I just finished my HID installation on both of our MP3 500s this weekend; installation is relatively straight-forward as all have suggested. I had a small issue with one of my bikes not wanting to seat the bulbs all the way into the 3-notched socket holder. I was able to rotate the bulb base about half way, but it just wasn't budging any more and I was afraid I'd shatter the base if I turned much harder or used a wrench. I THINK they'll hold in the housing, but I sure would feel better if they had rotated all the way. In my case, the rubber grommets at the base of the HIDs were just way too big/thick so I had to reuse the ones from the stock halogens or they wouldn't have gone in at all.

And yes, that's EXACTLY how those wires and connectors should go. Good work!

FYI Sidecutter my Flash2Pass has been working inconsistently since the HID install. I think the high beam line has some voltage draining off of it after the highs are flashed. I think a relay may be needed to to give the F2P module a solid 12+ and open pulse.

Dunno, seems like as long as you're upstream of the ballast you should be fine...but it's not a big deal. The nice thing about how the F2P works is that, if I wanted to, I could just add a 12V feed line and a momentary switch and not have it in line with anything else. Flick the momentary switch twice to close the circuit twice, and you get the same thing going to the F2P that you would get on the highbeams.

That is what I thought. But the F2P that was installed before the HIDs now has problems after the them. I believe the ballast has some stored voltage that remains on the high beam wire on the open part of the flash so the module does not see 2 solid on/off pulses. Adding a relay to the high beam wire, pin 86 to high beam wire, pin 30 to the same, pin 85 to ground, and pin 87a to the F2P with the other F2P wire going to ground. That would give it a solid power/open pulse.

I, on the other hand have removed the F2P module and am putting in a switch. I got the panel from a 2010 with the buttons on the handlebar cover. One button will be the opener, the other a low beam on/off switch for the gate sentry on base.