Modern Vespa

Hey all. I am new here, but figured I would ask. I have a 79 P200E that has the 24/24E carb on it. I have been having some issues with an oil leak that drips down the rear of the motor, and forms drips. It is a blueish gray oil, so I know that its the injected oil and not the motor oil. My question is, will a simple carb rebuild kit have all of the gaskets and parts that I will need to most likely fix this leak? It needs to be rebuilt anyway, so figured I would do it. While I have the carb off, I will also inspect the oil line running from the oil supply to make sure that there aren't any more leaks.

Moved to NSM.

Welcome to MV. If oil is pooling at the rear of the carb box, that suggests either a loose carb, or a bad carb base gasket, That gasket may very well be part of a carb rebild kit, but I'd check the contents of the kit to be sure.

There is also a gasket between the carb box and case that can be the source of an oil leak.

Make sure the gaskets are for an auto-lube carb.

What he said... plus....

if it is not a stock crank, and the rotary valve timing is altered, it may "spit up" oil while at idle or low RPMs.

Mine will form a little pool if I let it idle too long.

Is it inside your carb box, or just on the cases?

Hey all. Just figured I would update the thread for future reference. I ended up getting a carb rebuild kit with the oil pump gasket, ( the gasket when I took it off was torn), the carb base gasket, and the carb bowl base gasket as well. First of all, when I had the entire assembly apart down to the opening in the crank case, the oil leak stopped, so obviously, it was one of those gaskets. No oil leak now. I then had a spark issue. Ended up being a bad CDI box. Replaced that, and now I have spark. Now the scooter wont start. The cylinder when i take the spark plug out after trying to start it is wet with fuel, and the spark plug is as well, but it won't even spit or sputter. When i took the carb apart, I cleaned everything including the jets. I tried screwing the large idler screw on the top of the carb all the way in to at least start it. ( all the way in should be high idle) I'm wondering if There should be a base adjustment for the bottom back idler mixture screw as well? I didn't touch that screw on purpose. Should I adjust both screws to a factory setting and adjust from there?

Another question. When I look at the carb slide, its a about a 3rd of the way open with no throttle applied. Is that normal? When I turn the idler screw, it doesn't seem to move the slide.

Keep in mind that the scooter ran fine before the gaskets were replaced. I did not replace any other parts, so they should be the right parts. It was stored for a couple years after it ran, so I did put some new gas in the tank.

Screw on the side of the carb is for fuel/air mixture. Default setting is 1 & 1/2 turns out. Top screw is for idle speed. Check out the carb rebuild tutorial on the Scooter Mercato website under garage tips. Good Luck.

I got the scooter running! I had to get a new spark plug and starter fluid. After spraying it in the carb and letting it run for a while, the scooter runs and idles well.

The problem: the scooter won't rev fast. When give the bike full throttle in neutral, it will rev up. If I rev it up while starting out in first, the scooter bogs down almost like I'm starting out in 2nd, but i'm not. If I start out going down hill, it will go. As soon as I get to flat or slight uphill, the scooter will keep dropping rpm's until I have to pull the clutch in so it won't stall.

Does anyone have any idea of what this could be? The idler screw does work on top. The mixture screw in the lower rear doesn't seem to be doing anything. I'm not sure though. I just have it set to the default 2.5 turns out from tight.

Sounds like you're bogging down. Set the mixture at 1 1/2 turns out. Set up your timing properly. You should notice a difference then. Good Luck

I did have to redo all of the wiring for the stator since all of the wiring from the stator to the little junction box was heavily corroded and frayed. soldered all new wiring to the original solder points on the stator. I did take it out, but put it back in the same position. (marked with a fine tip sharpie)

Is checking the timing difficult?

Use the search button or Google it...

yeah, I answered my own question after posting that ha kinda dumb...thanks