Modern Vespa

My fuoco has developed an issue where the ignition won't come on properly unless you have the key in a position where it is halfway between the normal on and off positions...

If you can jiggle the key to stay in that position then the bike will start and run normally.

The key won't naturally sit in this position and will tend to move into the fully on position and the ignition then goes off again.

I've posted a video of how it is working here.

I've sprayed in some WD40 to see if that would clean it up, but its still the same.

Any thoughts on other things I could do to fix it?

If I replace the ignition barrell do I have to replace the ECU as well?

Thoughts appreciated...

First Never ever use WD40 in the ignition, it leaves a residue behind that can cause problems. Use Tri Flow.

Does it feel loose? There is a ring that holds the ignition in place that can crack and cause an issue like this.

correct. you have to take off the front plastics to access the back of the ignition.

No it doesn't feel loose at all.

No visible cracks either

Here is a link to a video so you can see what I mean.

http://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=plcp&v=hSyKOZcIrHA

Have you checked your battery cables? It could be a bad switch.

Cables onto the battery itself or into the back of the ignition barrel?

Since the first post and spraying some wd40 into the switch (I know, I did bad! ) I can now get the switch to reliably stay in between off and on in a position where the ignition works...

Its got to be a problem with the barrel itself...

I'll get some contact cleaner tomorrow and spray that in...unless the combined wisdom of the group tells me NO! in the next 24 hours...

It's not likely you will be able to diagnose the problem without gaining access to the key switch. Now that you have sprayed WD-40 into the keyway slot it will be necessary to remove it and attempt a proper cleaning of the assembly.

That will involve a removal from the frame. That will require a removal of nearly all the plastics until you get the "glove box" removed. (kick panel/knee panel)

Good Luck with your new project.

FWIW, a locksmith I spoke to says WD-40 has a different formulation now and is perfectly fine for locks, and he uses it all the time, but the "don't use WD-40" conventional wisdom continues and probably always will.

Not being a locksmith, I can't judge this, just passing it along.

I have heard that as well. I just know that when I've tried it in the past I had to go back and completely clean the lockset. Seems as they collect all sorts of crud that seizes up in short order.

YRMV, I haven't been that lucky.

Since it's not posing a problem and I can get around fine I think I'll see how it goes for the moment. Still wondering if I need to change the barrel will I need to change the ecu as well?

I use LPS 1 , much better than old WD

Just looking at some old posts, and feel its always useful to report back so we can learn as a group.
The ignition barrel is working exactly the same as it did two years ago, so perhaps I'm lucky but the WD40 didn't make the action of the ignition barrel any worse so far.

Appreciate that there may be better fluids to use and will look at that before using WD40 again on an ignition barrel.

Thx

Follow up with Graphite Lock spray. Some will say it is only good for the mechanical aspect of the tumblers, not so. Take a lead pencil and draw a line over the white insulator bridging the tip to the base of a spark plug and see what happens. HINT: timing of your engine.

I don't have a horse in this race, but will quote the locksmith I know (he owns a shop and eight service vehicles) from a post just this week:

"Any lubricant is fine, just not graphite. Every single automotive lock that I've seen someone spray graphite in has been completely destroyed."

Tri-Flow is the stuff to use. As recommended by jimh.

I give all of mine a shot of that stuff every year...
Not had any issues mechanically, or electrically.

Keith
Marietta, GA