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hello

'05 vespa PX150

any idea as to how to fix my broken mirror, it fell off while riding it today

it looks like the metal piece that holds the mirror broke off

pic attached
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
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another pic from where it broke off
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
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Welcome to the club.

You'll have to drill out the piece that is left -- not a very easy thing to do. I just left mine, removed the other (unbroken) one and replaced both with the type that mounts under the headset. Problem solved.
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tyfun50 wrote:
Welcome to the club.

You'll have to drill out the piece that is left -- not a very easy thing to do. I just left mine, removed the other (unbroken) one and replaced both with the type that mounts under the headset. Problem solved.
There ya go.

IF you go the drill out path make sure you use a NEW Drill bit, and a good easy out sized for the hole you drill. Apply oil to the threads around broken part for a few days before you drill it out. USE a good center punch and Go real slow.
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One of my stems broke on my 2005 PX150 and I tried drilling it out but just couldn't get it done.
They are made of hardened steel and the surrounding metal is much softer.
I even spent about $20 on special drill bits and I worked on it for an hour or two every day for about a week.
Meanwhile I had bought some brackets to mount the mirrors under the headset.
The brackets would only work on the left side due to the disk brake reservoir sticking out on the right.
Luckily (or un-luckily?) the broken stem was on the left.
I finally gave up on drilling out the broken one.
Then I got tired of the bad view, bad vibration, and asymetrical styling of the under-the-headset mirror and went to my local Vespa dealer and ordered a headset.
It was about $90 and took about a week to get here. The body shop down the street painted it for $25.
A new stem was $10 or $15.
It took me about half a day to take it apart and put it all back together and that included doing a good re-lube job of all the cables.
So as far as I am concerned, it would have been a lot easier just to order a new one.

I have thought about having a machine shop cut a slot in the bottom (threaded end) of a couple of stems. That would at least allow them to removed with a screwdriver from below in case another one breaks off.
Any other opinions on this idea?
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Aiosi wrote:
I have thought about having a machine shop cut a slot in the bottom (threaded end) of a couple of stems. That would at least allow them to removed with a screwdriver from below in case another one breaks off.
Any other opinions on this idea?
That sounds brilliant. A little never seize on the threads wouldn't hurt, either. I don't see why it would require machining, though. I'd just run a cutoff wheel through it myself. Or a dremel, if that's what you have.
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Blackbomber wrote:
[That sounds brilliant. A little never seize on the threads wouldn't hurt, either. I don't see why it would require machining, though. I'd just run a cutoff wheel through it myself. Or a dremel, if that's what you have.
I don't know. I do have a Dremel so I guess I should try it though.
My experience with attempting to drill them sure impressed me with how hardened that steel really is.

The "never seize" is certainly a good idea.
But would that cause them to not stay "dogged down"?
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Rob98801 wrote:
tyfun50 wrote:
Welcome to the club.

You'll have to drill out the piece that is left -- not a very easy thing to do. I just left mine, removed the other (unbroken) one and replaced both with the type that mounts under the headset. Problem solved.
There ya go.

IF you go the drill out path make sure you use a NEW Drill bit, and a good easy out sized for the hole you drill. Apply oil to the threads around broken part for a few days before you drill it out. USE a good center punch and Go real slow.
another wise move is to use a reverse drill bit if it's a standard thread and vise-versa. if you use a reverse drill bit to drill out a standard thread, if it catches it, unscrews. if you use a standard drill bit the action of the drill is just wedging it in harder and tightening it.
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Find a mechanic shop that has a $100 high speed bit and let them drill it and use easy-out.$10-20
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Someone already mentioned it, but having just done this (on a different very small broken screw) I learned (Thanks Voodoo) OIL on the bit is key!!! it makes ALL The difference.. at least it did in my case...
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pretty common problem with the newer style px mirrors, lucky they just fall in your lap while riding






im getting frustrated trying to drill out some 55year old 2mm screws Razz emoticon

and ive given up on the exhaust bolt alltogeter my mate jimy beans can helicoil it instead
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From the Random tricks, share your best little tips & shortcuts thread.
Magg wrote:
The mirror mounts on the Vespa PX's (1998 and on) headset tend to loose their threads after a few years of careless tightening and untightening of those mounts. The usual fix would be to just move them down to the underside of the headset.

I never thought that was such a good idea. It doesn't look right, there's too much vibration, and you can't fit a flyscreen that way.

The newer style mirror mount really is a better design as it dampens the vibration pretty well and personally I think it looks better (though not as good as no mirror).

No time-sert or helicoil insert would fix those threads, so I ground down the top of the bolt hole, but an m8 bolt through from the underside and an extension nut on top.

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One old trick is to take a "stick" welder, turn the amperage down to below welding level, stick it to the remnants, then try to unscrew. Drawback is weld is sometimes harder to drill than what was there originally if it breaks off.
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Aiosi wrote:
The "never seize" is certainly a good idea.
But would that cause them to not stay "dogged down"?
I certainly hope not, as I use it on the lug nuts for my car. Of course there is a lot of controversy in that practice itself. Common wisdom is to use some type of compound (even locktite) with certain dis-similar metals, such as stainless in aluminum. I've extended that to pretty much ANYTHING in aluminum, and have done it for years. Doesn't mean it's right, but I've had no issues.
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how do I remove the plastic top cover?

I took off the 4 screws, but can not seem to lift off the cover
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jtkkz wrote:
how do I remove the plastic top cover?

I took off the 4 screws, but can not seem to lift off the cover
Locate the lower end of speedo cable and shove a bit of it up the fork hole....you'll see the top pop and rise about 4".

You can then unscrew the upper speedo and remove the top set.
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It's probably coming up a bit.. you need to go down to the front wheel and push the speedo cable up while you pull the headset up!
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thanks for all the advise

yes the top cover does come up about 2 inches, but the speedo cable is holding it from coming completely off
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push the speedo cable as far as you can from the bottom... also unscrew the threaded ring around the ingintion (key switch) and take it off.. then pull it up. (if you have a disk brake you'll have to push they hepydraulic line up from the bottom as well). once you have done these things, you should be able to pull the top up, and get your hand in there and unscrew the speedo cable where it connects to the under side of the speedometer.
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jimmyb865 wrote:
You can then unscrew the upper speedo and remove the top set.
bumo
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Also on a PX you need to reach up in and disconnect the fuel gauge.

Or you could just plug the hole and get a leggy mirror.
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It wasn't that complicated on my 05 PX150.
I think most of the advice here is for earlier models.
Or maybe I just got a really unique one.
(Disclaimer to avoid possible toe-stepping: I am very grateful for all of those guys and their invaluable advice, they've saved my bacon on more than one occasion.)

Take out the 4 bottom screws
Pull up on the headset about an inch or so
Reach in with some long needle-nose pliers
Squeeze the white clip-on connector of the speedo cable on the bottom of the speedo
And pull up on the headset while holding down on the pliers.

You are then left with one electrical connector plugged in that has enough slack in the wires to let the headset hang down, allowing you to do most work in there.
You can unplug the electrical connector but be careful 'cause it's one of those ribbon type cables. I've plugged and unplugged mine a number of times but I would still advise carefulness. (Of course, you should always be gentle with everything on your Vespa, except the throttle.)

To put it back together I used a open end wrench (17 mm, I think) to cradle the speedo cable and push it back into the speedo until it clicks in place. You have to line up the 2 clips of the clip-on connector but it's not that difficult.

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