OP
UTC

Hooked
P200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 186
Location: Alabama
 
Hooked
P200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 186
Location: Alabama
UTC quote
The replacement clutch side seal that I got is all metal on the backside (side facing bearing). The one I removed had a rubber outer lip and rubber backside. Different manufactures? Wrong seal? One better than the other?
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
OP
UTC

Hooked
P200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 186
Location: Alabama
 
Hooked
P200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 186
Location: Alabama
UTC quote
Oh. Old seal on top of pic. My replacement is bottom seal.
OP
UTC

Hooked
P200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 186
Location: Alabama
 
Hooked
P200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 186
Location: Alabama
UTC quote
If the metal seal is kosher, do I use loctite on it? What kind, where?
UTC

Enthusiast
TX225 Rally 200 P225 VBB200 VNB Allstate125 LIS3-225 LIS2-Shriner125
Joined: UTC
Posts: 82
Location: Baltimore, MD
 
Enthusiast
TX225 Rally 200 P225 VBB200 VNB Allstate125 LIS3-225 LIS2-Shriner125
Joined: UTC
Posts: 82
Location: Baltimore, MD
UTC quote
I like the metal ones better, The ones with rubber can fall out easier. I usually clean the surface with acetone and then use red loctite to really glue the metal seal in there.
OP
UTC

Hooked
P200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 186
Location: Alabama
 
Hooked
P200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 186
Location: Alabama
UTC quote
Thanks for the reply. Red loctite on the "race" and outer edge?
@sfvsr avatar
UTC

Ossessionato
a lambretta or two
Joined: UTC
Posts: 3724
Location: San Francisco
 
Ossessionato
@sfvsr avatar
a lambretta or two
Joined: UTC
Posts: 3724
Location: San Francisco
UTC quote
I use Loc-tite 603TM retaining compound for setting main drive seals. 603TM is best when using in an environment where oil contamination is possible.

Don't use "regular" red Loc-tite on rubber in hot engines, especially on a rubber coated seal.
@sfvsr avatar
UTC

Ossessionato
a lambretta or two
Joined: UTC
Posts: 3724
Location: San Francisco
 
Ossessionato
@sfvsr avatar
a lambretta or two
Joined: UTC
Posts: 3724
Location: San Francisco
UTC quote
If using the original-style main drive seal (all metal outer with rubber only at center) I recommend using 648 retaining compound. 648 is green and use for pressed-in bearings, but will work well for the metal seal.
OP
UTC

Hooked
P200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 186
Location: Alabama
 
Hooked
P200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 186
Location: Alabama
UTC quote
Its all metal with rubber in center. Thanks for the reply and specific info. I'll get the 648.
OP
UTC

Hooked
P200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 186
Location: Alabama
 
Hooked
P200
Joined: UTC
Posts: 186
Location: Alabama
UTC quote
Wow. 648 not easy to find. Gonna order some. Thanks for your info.
UTC

Member
GS150
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8
Location: Englewood, CO
 
Member
GS150
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8
Location: Englewood, CO
UTC quote
The metal ones are easier to put in, but I've had better luck with the rubber ones.
UTC

Member
GS150
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8
Location: Englewood, CO
 
Member
GS150
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8
Location: Englewood, CO
UTC quote
Also, I like Loctite #290. It's called "wicking grade." You put it on after the parts are assembled and it wicks it's way in to the threads (or, not threads). You can drip it on electrical connectors to keep them from pulling apart too.

Modern Vespa is the premier site for modern Vespa and Piaggio scooters. Vespa GTS300, GTS250, GTV, GT200, LX150, LXS, ET4, ET2, MP3, Fuoco, Elettrica and more.

Modern Vespa is made possible by our generous supporters.

Buy Me A Coffee
 

Shop on Amazon with Modern Vespa

Modern Vespa is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com


All Content Copyright 2005-2025 by Modern Vespa.
All Rights Reserved.


[ Time: 0.0094s ][ Queries: 4 (0.0027s) ][ live ][ 339 ][ ThingOne ]