Modern Vespa

Hi there,

I'm starting to solve most of the dramas I have thanks to this site.

Any opinions on what I need to do about the rust. There is a hole just under the sight glass as you can hopefully see in the picture.

I want to get it cut out and what not.

Is there anything else to consider?

Thanks for all the on going help.

The top part, has 2 layers of top skin and another underneath i think, the centre tube has one.

Mask out double layer, around the black area and paint strip. Just to see how far the rust goes.(bottom pic) Id advise removing the inner floor runners either side.(easily reriveted)


Before cutting, it will probably be a good idea to jig the frame, welding a bar from the headstock to the seat frame can add support. im sure others will add there ideas.But the body will need supporting and its easily removable.



The red area is the likely area requiring removal and bending up. easy enough for a decent panel shop to do cheaply. You will need to have a piece made for the floor tube. Its the stand that causes the body flexing and the rust there.


Then the main floor tube will need to be bent and tack welded and then properly welded in, followed by your 3 main top pieces. A panel shop may try to get away with just a couple for the top bit but it needs the strength, so ask them to do all 3.

Its a bit of off road time but its easy to do. They can even bog the weld grinds and prime it for you. wont cost much, but it will also not be a priority for a panel shop so be patient.

Its easy and will end up looking good.

Definitely get rid of the rust at some stage

It's all do-able - VBB rebuilb begins

All the rusted panels u need to replace are available if u can't be assed trying to fabricate them urself. I would be bending up the new panels around the rusted area before u cut it all out try as best u can to get the shape.

Forza!!!

So where can you buy the tunnel section?

http://www.vesparicambisud.com/shop/index.php?route=product/product&path=5_53&product_id=2164#content

Dunno if it's the bit Ginch is referring to but may help knoxy.

Good site! I guess this is one bit that frame needs.

Hi again.

Thanks again for all the replies and the info TrumpyScooter.

I have not had any experience welding or even own a welder or angle grinder. I'm normally keen to try but I don't want to blow it.

Anywho.

Couple of queries:

Do I have to strip it back to frame only if I'm going to give it to a panel shop? Or can I just roll it in and say 'fix bike now' haha.

Thanks for the links to that site it looks really helpful and probably the avenue I will go down. I cant get it in English though, or is it the trusty Google translate page?

Has anyone bought off this site before?

Cheers again.

This post was not quite
What we were hoping to see
Try again, perhaps?

So this is the same product from scoter centre but slightly cheaper.

http://www.scooter-center.com/product/7671323/Repair+part+center+frame+piece+rear+part+OEM+QUALITY+Vespa+PX+T5+125cc+Vespa+Rally180+VSD1T+Vespa+Rally200+VSE1T+Sprint+TS+Super+GL+SS180+VSC1T+GS160+GS4+VSB1T+VNB+VNA+VBB+VBA?meta=7671323*scd_ALL_en*s18177839331424*repair*8*8*1*16

Although it says it may only fit 200 PX E (VSX1T - 1981-83).

Is there much of a change between year models in that part of the design?

Helpful that its in English too.

Cheers

As I read it - suitable for all px. Scooter-center recommended, good prices and reasonable shipping.

Personally, I'd investigate the integrity of the metal surrounding the hole. If it's sound, I'd look at just cutting out a bit around that hole and patching just that part, before I went removing big chunks and replacing entire panels. Why amputate the whole leg if you've just stubbed your toe.

My 2 cents.

You cant put a plaster on that. it used to be a stubbed toe but its gone gangrene.

Even with the panels premade, still ask a shop what it would cost to do the work.(dont tell em you can get panels sent to you) I had almost the same on mine and it only cost me a couple of hundred bucks and the shop made that bit for me.

Scooter centre are good ive bought stuff off them before

Hi,

I will take it to a panel shop to get a opinion/quote and then maybe mention about getting that panel from Germany.

I'll ask him how much I need to strip back on the bike too. Obviously the fuel tank.

I'll let you know how I go next week. Most annoying is it not being registered so I have to pop it in a van and pull it out for a quote and blah blah.

Oh well.

Cheers

Hi just a note to finish this topic. Got it back and repainted that section. He ended up cutting and re welding the worst bits. Looks pretty good after its all painted.

Compared to

Would you mind sharing how much they charged to repair that?

Yeah sweet 300 bucks and he gave me a can of kill rust primer. It's not perfect but it's much better than it was.

I'm glad you're putting in the effort & cash to save her.
YES I know that adding $300 to a rusted out P seems silly to many.
Just remember that while you can buy a nonrusty P beater for that some places, other places have VERY little to choose from.

I think it looks like a 'best possible for the money' weld repair job from the pics, hard to tell for sure without looking inside with a lite & mirror. Just remember that the MOST important area structurally is the floor sheet, which is in tension under load. Look for bad areas there under the tunnel. The upper tunnel is under compression loading and could only fail by collapsing into itself. This considers the primary loading, but does ignore torsional loading which should normally be much less.

If you imagine a bodge with a broken in half body, you'll likely expect the floor torn apart with a big gap by tension, while the top is still barely joined but bent by the collapse of the unsupported center. Yes, I've given this some thought. QUITE a lot of thought in fact:


This is 'Fang' as received and poor girl hadn't been loved for a long time.

Her motor was also welded successfully(outer case half was actually in halves itself, broken thru the middle). Whoever did it did an amazingly good job & apparently also rebuilt the motor except badly needed new motor mounts. I like that he did add a bridge piece on the tunnel repair.


She now rides like a good wind, fast, straight and smooth. Mostly loverubs, very little new paint except cowls.


I swapped the amber turns for clear, that's about it for beauty. The rubber mats are for utility, lift 'em out & clean the whole floor, no lurking rust.