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ok, everything that is salvageable is ready to put in the parts washer.
not much left unfortunately...

now to order parts and hope it goes back together 1/2 as easily as it came apart!
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chips on driveshaft...

clutch basket bugger.

case crack...

it keeps getting better...

a new motor seems to be cheaper...
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the parts are finally in the states and on their way. should be here in a few days.
when they land, the jug is getting sent for a 1 over hone and to match the ports on the cases that will be welded up...
barring any other problems, the project is back on...
⬆️    About 2 months elapsed    ⬇️
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OK.
So the cases were cracked, helicoiled, thrashed, corroded and abused.
A trip or 2 to J. Gick and they came back pretty nice. They have been matched, Filled, drilled, repaired, welded and media blasted.
The other is at my shop. This one just came back today.
I think I'm ready to start building.
2 orders to sip later and I think I have everything ready to get it together.
Let's keep our fingers crossed..........
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Other side
Other side
Other side
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OK. Here we go.
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Johnny Two Tone
'15 GTS300, '86 PX125EFL, '66 VBB, '01 ET4
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Awesome, your clutch cover is sad that it didn't get blasted though Clown emoticon .

What are your build specs? Is that a Polini cylinder there? Doing anything for gearing, etc.?
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polini 130 kit, polini pipe, 25mm delorto, vespatronic ignition. mazuchelli crank
29/68 straight cut primary with stock 4 speed gears and neufren PK sport clutch... i think thats it.
oh did i mention that EVERYTHING inside is brand freakin new... bearings, seals, tree, gears, clutch, primary, all of it... it took a shit and it all was bad.
its a brand new motor...
owell, i know it should be just fine now.
as long as the frame hasnt been welded together from 2 old ones... haha
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29/68 primaries and a stock christmas tree maybe a bit tall for a straight bolt on polini kit unless your gunna do some port work/timing changes. The 3rd-4th gap will be even greater vs. the stock setup. You can remedy this by sticking a drt tree in there with a short 4th or use the drt runner with short 3rd and 4th. This will make the gear ratio closer and keep you in the powerband when you hit top gear.

Use this: Gear calculator to see your ratios.

If your engine setup is not up to pulling higher revs in top gear, your variable ignition timing will not be able to fully retard = possible engine ping and heat. Your exhaust will also be a factor in allowing the engine to rev out.
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i had the cases matched to the polini cylinder when it went to get the repairs done. i was hoping that the few mods would make enough rpms for that gearing to be effective.
58-54-50-46 are the gears i put in it
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so far, its been easy going and without issues (knock on wood!!)
bearings went in well. helps that its super clean... seals are in, clutch basket, kicker and trannny built and in
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86' Vespa PX 200, 59' Lambretta LD 150
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Good job! Clap emoticon
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That's looking good man.. maybe it's my small pics, but is that seal all the way pressed in? flush w/ the case?

other than that (and it's probably the pic/edge shadow) it looks clean..

Did you put the o-ring on the gear selector mechanism?
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thanks, its nice to see all the planning and bitching working out.

yes,i put in all new seals and o-rings where they needed to be. they came w a kit so if it needed it or not, it got renewed.
the seal is pretty darn flush w the case. i thought is wasnt in all the way but its sitting flush w the bearing which is all the way in. the pic makes it look like its sticking up more than anything
although i feel that it could be in like .05mm more to be truly flush, the rubber may be a bit thicker than the original but its bottomed out on the bearing.
you think i should i trim the rubber so its at or lower than the case? i put a straight edge on it, its maybe a couple C-hairs higher than the case, if i push down ever so slightly on teh straight edge, its flush...
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I had something similar on my clutch side seal but them I looked at how the crank surface is recessed in that area and how it didn't look like it could go in any further and stopped worrying.
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had issue with primary gear hitting the case.
i used a dremel to remove the material on the left side in the picture where it was fouling.
the 29T primary gear was larger than the 24T original.
waiting for the right woodruff key in the mail to proceed.
It should be here in a couple of days with the new flywheel and reinforced clutch clip. I dont want that sucker popping off again...
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well, i am hoping the impressed feeling i have with myself plays out.
internals finished, halves plopped together, piston in, cylinder and head on.
the suspense is terrible, i hope it lasts!
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It's gonna rock, don't worry.
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xl2 clutch had clearance issues with cover.
had to ground down the brass plunger and a wee little bit of the lip of the hole it sits in.
all clear.
also, the flanged nut from SIP is a bit taller (1.5mm) than stock one and it didnt tighten all the way down. only about 75%. i used loctite and nailed it down. i hope it holds. ive seen pictures online of the same thing with this clutch in v series engines. it seems like everyone else used loctite and tightened it down good. i checked clearances and made sure the woodruff key was in right too.

that side is all buttoned up and ready to rock. (knock on wood).

fly side and timing left to do and then just carb and exhaust...

(fingers still crossed.)
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i got everything back together, just waiting on flywheel nut and i think im ready to re install it and do timing...

bloody fingers crossed
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UTC quote
nice job!
Can't wait to see it back in your scoot -
All the best to you . Its pretty satisfying when you get it done and take it for a spin !
Also make sure you get a good selection of jets to tune it for the mods you have done - Jet200 sells bgm jet sets for around $15 shipped ( if my memory serves me ) its the best way to get a good selection as singles are soooo expensive.

Good Luck and keep us informed !
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thanks man.
soon...
its been a frustrating 6 months. it would have taken alot less time but sourcing parts takes soooo long...
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Clutch Woodruff Key
Can I just ask.....what does the clutch woodruff key actually do? I've just had my smallie clutch out and was very careful of the woodruff, especially when re-installing the clutch and lining it up with the key.

But then when I thought about it, with the clutch plate tabs sitting in the cutouts in the clutch basket, the clutch can't rotate inside the basket. And there was the recent discussion on which combination of washer and nut to use.....just askin....
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It keeps the clutch in line with the spline n helps keep the whole thing from rotating on the taper but the taper faces and force of nut is supposed to keep it from doing so as well. Some don't use the key and just loctite it but I'd suggest using one. Extra added protection IMHO.
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IF you've got a powerful, tuned motor, I wouldn't use a key.. What I've heard is if things go bad a key will make matters even messier.. the BGM clutch doesn't even come with a slot for a key.
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Molto Verboso
59 Vespa, 65 Vespa, 66 Vespa, 57 Vespa
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That's looking sweet!... so clean that even Vader had to do a double take!
Laughing emoticon
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Vader, should u start a key or no key thread? I'd be interested in seeing who uses them and who doesn't and the machines they have...
I looked to no avail...
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Well I onviously don't use one as there isn't even a slot.. so that's that.. and as i said in my last post I'm talking about a powerful tuned motor.
Go ask on the small frame forum... Do what you want, I'm just giving a suggestion based on what I've been told by folks with lots of small frame experience, and the fact that one of the latest performance clutches doesn't take a key..
You can start a thread though... I'm all set... using no key!

If i were putting the stock v90 motor back together all stock I'd probably use the key.
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Yeah man. Makes total sense.
I'm wondering where the line is on power and need or no need for a key. I understand what u mean by not wanting one. If it would spin the key, it will take a bunch of stuff out with it. Makes total sense. I did order the loctite u suggested. I'm gonna use a wavy washer too...
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Motor is in... New cables. I put the head on wrong. I installed it w plug forward not to side... Stupid. Had to drop motor at shock mount to fix it. I lost my wiring diagram from when I tore it apart. So I'll have to figure that out but its looking good...
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jsunstar wrote:
I lost my wiring diagram from when I tore it apart. So I'll have to figure that out but its looking good...
Is this any help?
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maybe, ill check when i get home
i think i have blue, green and black coming from the switches
and only have green, red/black and yellow/white coming from the stator
ill check when i get home after work..
thanks
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heres what I have:
the wires on the left are coming from the stator and the ones with the plastic ends go to the CDI. the ones on the right are coming from the switches...

i found a post on the smallframes site that red/black is cdi power and blue is earth. these i marked on the CDI so im good where those go...
the yellow/white is battery i think (which i dont have)...

but im not sure where to connect the green and red/white stripe to the three on the right.

anyone?
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Update! VRooooooooooooMMM!
UPDATE!
ITS ALIIIIIVE!!!!!!!

hooked it all up today and kick.... kick.... kick.... kick..... turn on gas.... kick... kick.... kick POW... VROOOOM!

it took a minute but its alive. sounds good.

i got most of it ready to go. gotta check timing and tune the idle and prolly the carb a bit...

gotta figure out lights too... none work.

also, the throttle cable that came with the cable kit is too short. i hooked it up and it was pretty much half throttle. good thing the kill switch works! haha

i let it run for about a minute and let it cool down and ran it for 2 more minutes and let it cool again. had to go to work after that.
i know that running in the rings with harleys and buells you can do that in increasing increments to set the rings. (run one minute let cool completely, run 2 minutes, let cool, 3 minutes, etc, until 10 minutes or so and you can bet its safe to run regularly). i used to do that and drag race them wide open...
ill just take it easy on this motor for a few hundred miles before really getting on it...

i want to thank everyone that has helped me on this project. especially with advice as well as parts and machine work.
id like to thank the academy. and my mom. and god. and dog...

now to sort it all out and see if it will rip wheelies down Duval street so I can get my first ticket.
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UTC quote
new throttle cable from the bike shop... getting better
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