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Hi all, sorry to start my time on the forum with a question, but I have had my oil pressure warning light flicker on for a couple of seconds after about 20 minutes of riding.

It used to happen no more than once a week now it's happening each day for the same short flash.

I regularly check the level so I am pretty sure the pressure isn't being affected by a very low level. I had a full service at a Vespa garage including oil, filters etc within the last 1000 miles.

The scooter although 2005 has only done about 4500 miles, the previous owner had stored it for a long time on and off over the years.

I am hoping to get a new oil pressure sensor to see if that helps, do you think that's the best place to start?

Also, is there any links that could help on how to swap this over, there's no images of it's location in the Haynes manual and the service manual I found online only seems to list it textually. Is it an easy item to change? (I've also recently changed the ignition switch which had gone loose and the clamps for the water hoses as one popped off which appear to be common faults with the GT200.)

Cheers in advance,

Ian
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Just take it to a certified mechanic. They'll figure it out faster and likely for cheaper than you will yourself. If it is a real oil pressure problem leave it to the pros
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The garage are quite friendly with me as I have a few different bikes in and out and buy parts to work on them myself, they suggested this morning it was more likely to be a sticking oil pressure release valve if this helps others in future. I'm more than happy to tackle anything electrical but probably will get the pressure release valve done at the garage.
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Thanks for the reply by the way, apparently it can still be ridden until it goes in even with a sticking oil pressure release valve
⬆️    About 4 months elapsed    ⬇️
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Returned
Hi all, this problem has returned, it had a new oil pressure sensor and oil pressure release valve , oil and filter change a few months ago when I posted my last reply and has been fine since. Then yesterday it started again at the same places it used to on the trip to work, slight down hills at a steady stop it flashes for a moment.

Is there anything I can do to confirm if it's an electrical issue? I am a bit worried the only thing after that is the oil pump. I checked the oil and it was just over half and topped it up a bit, does this light ever come on for oil pressure being too high as well as too low?

Cheers all in advance.
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Any ideas at all guys?
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ianGT200, I will give you my opinion. The oil pressure sensor is a good thing. When the oil level gets low the red warning light will light up on the dash. They do however seem to be very sensitive. If the oil level is not at or near the full mark the red warning light will tend to flash on for a few seconds when coming to a sudden stop. I believe the oil gets sloshed around and the oil pressure sensor briefly detects a low oil pressure scenario. If you ride your scooter hard like I do it will use some oil between changes and needs to be topped off periodically. Keeping the oil level near the full mark without overfilling will minimize the red warning light from flickering on. If the oil level is not at or near the full mark my red warning light will come on for a few seconds if I come to a sudden stop. I realize that it's just the oil being sloshed around and the light goes out in a few seconds so I don't worry. If it were to come on and stay on then that would be a cause for concern. YMMV

On a side note, I had a motorcycle years ago that had a very sensitive oil pressure sensor. ANY abrupt acceleration or deceleration would cause the red warning light to flicker on. The only way to keep it from doing that was to slightly overfill the crankcase with oil. I refused to do that and lived with the light flickering on regularly.
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At your last service, did the dealer install synthetic oil? A wide-range non-synthetic oil such as 5W-40 is actually a 5 weight oil with molecules that uncurl as it gets hotter so that it doesn't thin out too much when it's at operating temperature. When these molecules get sheared by mechanical forces in the engine, the oil becomes thinner and could then trigger the low oil pressure light at idle. A real synthetic oil is made from the higher weight (e.g. 40) materials which don't thicken too much when cold.

On the other hand, your idle rpm might be too low, or you could be thinning the oil due to blowby from a stuck ring.

I would try a quick oil change before swapping out any more parts.

Cheers and good luck,
Bob
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Thank you for getting back to me guys much appreciated. I believe I've used 5w30 for topping up, I better check whether or not it's fully synthetic or not. Is that the wrong grade? I believe I got this from the Haynes manual.
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The manual specifies 5w40 full synthetic. Shell Rotella T6 is available at Walmart and meets the spec.
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Cheers, I will check the oil type when I get home, it may very well be me having totally cocked up and used the wrong oil. If it is, would the 5w30 explain the possible pressure drop, I would've thought it's a thicker oil?
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evening guys, I got home and checked and infact I am using the correct 5w40 fully synthetic oil for the top ups. I guess that's good but rules that out as a reason.

I was riding quite hard at the time when it first came back, 70 mph for about 15 minutes. Then turned off and stopped on a slight downhill at a junction.

This morning though I was going along about 40 and stopped again, but smoothly and slowely and it came on for a second then went. Again on a slight downhill.

This morning when I checked the oil it was just over half, I added a little more but didn't want to over-fill, will check the level again tomorrow. Hopefully it's just as it is for you Hatchi, also maybe I could up my idle speed a little to see if that has anything to do with it.
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Update for others
Hi all,

Well, after a top up again it's been working perfectly, touch wood. It seems to be exactly as you say Hachi, even with a brand new oil pressure sensor and pressure release valve it's not just very low oil which would set off the oil pressure sensor when coming to a fairly firm stop, it's literally anything less than three quarters / four fifths full will set it off.

I thought I would put this in here to avoid others going through the faff of replacing their oil pressure sensor, I've always in the past ensured it's above half, but have usually thought half to three quarters is actually fine, clearly this isn't the case for the Vespa in terms of getting warnings so always keep it pretty much full or just a little under full.

Other posts around the web all bang on about it being a pressure sensor and not an oil level, it may well be pressure but the oil level has a massive impact on it and not only when oil is very low as has been alluded to on the forum before (and sent me on a wild goose chase).

Also, riding at 70 for fair distances scoffs oil at quite a rate so just be aware of that too and also riding two up at 60 for a fair distance as expected, the same.
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Thanks for the update ianGT200!
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Sounds a bit like a faulty electric connection along the line from sensor to warning light. I once had a loose connector to the gauge cluster that made another indicator react erratically.

That said, be aware that oil levels want to be checked with cold oil. Warm half might be cold low...
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Hey, ianGT200
Just had to mention what I am experiencing right now which closely related to your situation. I hope things are going good though. I ran my lx150 low on oil. But I had about 200cc of conv. Oil (bad idea) had to rebuild top end and now I notice 1000 miles later. The oil has to be at the full line or a hair below to be able idle and drive more smooth. The halfway mark makes my vespa shake badly snd my exhaust nuts turned red and blue colored. So I put more oil in to the full mark. But it still feels restriction cold engine or hot. But my oil light never turned on, ever. Weird best of luck to you
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Very odd issue it sounds like you have there J Scott. I really only let it get as low as about 600 to 750cc of oil. For me in the past with Japanese bikes / or cars I have I've never wanted to over fill so usually only top up when it's looking to be getting to half (something I am revising now). I always check the oil cold, flat surface, screw the dipstick in as per the manual.

I think with the GT200 because I've seen the issue with the oil pressure light flickering on a fairly firm stop many times when searching, it's hopefully just a very sensitive sensor and the oil needs to be more than three quarters full at all times. Usage of the bike at 70mph regularly uses oil as it says in the manual which explains why after a full oil change, three months riding will drop it below that three quarter level. Bah, what it also says in the workshop manual is If the light turns on during braking, at idling speed or while turning a corner, it is necessary to
check the oil level and the lubrication system
wish I'd just RTFM lol.

The other really common issue with the GT200 I have seen on the forum is a judder / shudder / grinding sound on pulling away, I also had this issue and again it was a really simple fix something that should be done as part of the yearly service.

It's a build up of clutch dust which is causing the dry clutch to slip, you use a flathead screw driver wrapped in a rag and pop off the silver Vespa logo on the clutch cover, use compressed air and blow the air through the three holes in the clutch cover and also from underneath there's an outlet for the dust. Then give a squirt of clutch cleaner through the three holes. Allow it to evaporate overnight.

Mine was like new again after that.

Regarding a fault with the connection for the sensor, I did wonder that but part of turning on the bike, it tests that connection the oil pressure light is consistently lit red before the pump is engaged and pressure is increased so the connection should therefore be solid.
⬆️    About 1 month elapsed    ⬇️
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Back again, swine little oil light
Bit of an update on this problem, it went away for a month after topping up the oil. Then it came back yesterday in a place it's not done it before just stopping on the flat gently came on for about 4 seconds and went. Checked the oil the next morning on the flat, it was exactly on the max level still.

This morning it flickered on and of and on and off again which is the first time it's done that in it's usual old place, on a downhill near traffic lights.

It's had a new pressure sensor and oil pressure release valve already. When I turn on the ignition before starting in the morning the test of the oil pressure light stays on and stable red as expected.

Is there anything anyone can think of to check before I have to send it in to get the oil pump checked / replaced?

Weirdly it's always 20-30 minutes ish into the 40 min ride

Cheers in advance all
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Quick info before you replace the oil pump. I got my new oil pump at my nearest vespa dealer for $42 plus it's oil pump gasket and oil pan gasket new hard ware and gear for $63 the gear probably didn't need replacing though, looked in good shape, replaced gear anyways. hope it's that cheap for you too. Otherwise I was ready to buy the one on scooter west so I went in and replaced my oil pump. I didn't know what to expect since I couldn't find any info to replace. I looked at the diagram of the oil sump parts including oil pump to possibly know what I'm looking at. Luckily no surprises or complications when replacing. A mechanic at my dealer told me I would have to remove whole oil seal that is located behind the inner variator half. This is false, when I opened the oil sump (oil pan) your oil pump is accessible through the oil sump. So if your dealer tells you that you have to remove the oil seal behind the inner variator half. Tell them it's not required to do so. I had complete success without removing anything else just so you don't get charged extra it was easy, I took my time with care and clean and all back together (and oil) in 3 hours.

Just my ¢2

Best of luck
Justin
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Cool cheers j Scott I was just reading the process in my Haynes manual too so will see what they say and see if it matches. Did you have the oil pressure light flicker too?

I am wondering about contamination of the oil with petrol reducing the viscosity and pressure, but surely that would push up the level? Is there anyway to tell if it's something like that, just smell?

Also tonight I've upped my idle an eighth of a turn to see if it helps as it's always after that 20 to 30 min of stop start almost always at the exact same set of traffic lights or the ones after.
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Ian, how long since you changed the oil. If you do a lot of short trips in stop and go traffic then there is a chance that moisture has accumulated in the oil which may cause foaming which may trigger the low oil light. This is just a guess.
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That sounds possible it's been a couple of months since the top up but since December for the last proper oil change.

Is there anyway to tell when looking at the oil if it's been thinned with condensation?

I do about 10 miles each way to work each day even though it takes 40 mins due to heavy stop start city traffic.

Though every couple of weeks I do tend to do a 30 mile or so weekend ride two up.
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Did my first oil change on the GT200 today, bit awkward that it can't be done when on the centre stand isn't it?

My oil filter was on very tight, as it was an after market it one it had one of those silly wide flathead sockets to remove it, which I could get a tool for from no where. Couldn't do it by hand or with my own long flathead screw driver had to resort to mole grips in the end to get the swine off.

But all done now, 24 mile test ride and so far no oil drips or flashing oil light. Pretty sure the oil filter hadn't been changed since last September even though the garage must have drained the oil to change the oil pressure sensor and oil pressure release valve.

The extension bar and 24mm socket aren't very cheap, I'm so tight lol
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Just incase it helps anyone, bit of an update. I did an oil and filter change and so far so good. The oil filter looked older than expected with some rust on it it had been there at least since September / October last year. Because the bike had stood for ages when I bought it I took it in for a full service oil filters belt rollers etc I wonder if some gunky oil had been trapped somewhere and had clogged the oil filter after a while I read that with a clogged filter you can get low oil pressure as it flows through the oil pressure release valve instead.

Also to sort out the clutch grind I took it in to be sanded while they were fitting a new front tire all in £50 cash Moby Dicks in Borrowash Derbyshire.
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Thanks for posting all of this. Great info. Wow, they didn't change the oil filter?. I have a reusable one on mine and it gets a through cleaning when i change out the oil. I guess the little beasties are super sensitive. Good luck. Keep us updated. Respect that light tho. It can be costly if you don't.
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Cheers Judy, well hopefully it's going to be ok now with the new filter and oil, it's had so much in that area swapped out the only thing left really is the oil pump if it does return. It's odd that it goes away for months if it gets an oil change though. Will be keeping a note of when it had this filter and do them myself from now on.

It hasn't really done many miles only about 7000 miles now and it's had: -

Ignition switch failure - replaced
Oil pressure switch - replaced
Oil pressure release valve - replaced
Clutch shudder problems - garage time for sanding

New belt, rollers as they'd gone out of shape somehow. To be fair it makes my Ducati look like a beacon of reliability lol. But it is great fun to ride and brilliant when everything is working like just at the moment, just hope it lasts more than three months this time without something else failing.
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My oil light never came on. But im positive I ruined the crank shaft main bearings so that right there can lower oil pressure (the main crank shaft bearings creates the oil pressure and the oil pump only keeps the oil flowing) but my vespa keeps going and has been riding a little smoother. Ian, you just might have solved your issue. Happy riding bud.
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Cheers j Scott you too. I did also up my idle speed ensuring not to be too high and engage the auto transmission. That may also have been related if for some reason the idle speed was dropping once warmed up usually I'd have thought it would've increased.
⬆️    About 10 years elapsed    ⬇️
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Hi All!

I had the same issue and found the problem after using your troubleshooting.

It was electrical. The battery terminals were loose and when the negative terminal came off the oil light would come on.

Check your connections and I hope it works !

Richard
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