OP
UTC

Hooked
64 GL150, 64 VBB retired
Joined: UTC
Posts: 108
Location: Cali
 
Hooked
64 GL150, 64 VBB retired
Joined: UTC
Posts: 108
Location: Cali
UTC quote
Sounds a bit crazy to do, but I'm wondering what everyone thinks.

From this previous post Restoring original paint I had pretty good luck stripping off the top coat to get to the original, only took about 4 solid weekends of low heat, high patience, and a careful hand. As suspected, a couple of areas are pretty bad, but in the end I'm liking the beat up original color better than I liked the even more beat up crappy white with some spots of original color showing through.

I still have to use a bit of polishing compound to get at some scuffs and marks, but I'm actually wondering about using a 2k clear coat to give some extra longevity? or just let it continue to patina more?
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@rowdyc avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
GL, PK, PE200 with hack, Sears Rust Badge
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1346
Location: Deep in the heart of Texas
 
Molto Verboso
@rowdyc avatar
GL, PK, PE200 with hack, Sears Rust Badge
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1346
Location: Deep in the heart of Texas
UTC quote
Mines was cleaned, polished and clear coat....by the restorer and not me. IMO, Not bad...No bad at all. My scooter was red to begin with and the chip paint is not as noticeable if on a white bike. But the clear should stop the chipping and keep it old looking.

Clean clean and polish polish.
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@groover avatar
UTC

Hooked
Vespa P200E & P125x
Joined: UTC
Posts: 318
Location: Ohio
 
Hooked
@groover avatar
Vespa P200E & P125x
Joined: UTC
Posts: 318
Location: Ohio
UTC quote
You could use a rust converter type product that will turn the rust spots into a zinc-phosphate type coat. I did it on mine and I'm pretty happy with the results. I then just wax it. It doesn't feel like a rust-bucket anymore.

I used this:

http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-s-fast-etch.html

Just the one spray bottle should do it all.

Sorry, this is the best before and after photo I have, but you get the idea. Basically it's not supposed to rust anymore once treated. I have not done much afterwards, just did that before the end of season and I love the looks.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
OP
UTC

Hooked
64 GL150, 64 VBB retired
Joined: UTC
Posts: 108
Location: Cali
 
Hooked
64 GL150, 64 VBB retired
Joined: UTC
Posts: 108
Location: Cali
UTC quote
Ya I've read a lot here about people keeping the patina look and just waxing for protection. My issue is that I'm not sure I'll keep on the waxing long term...
@syntagma avatar
UTC

Hooked
150 Super,Fly 150
Joined: UTC
Posts: 417
Location: Seattle
 
Hooked
@syntagma avatar
150 Super,Fly 150
Joined: UTC
Posts: 417
Location: Seattle
UTC quote
I was a bit worried about mine as the rust was getting fairly thick but most of it you couldn't see anyway, as it was under the cowl. I ended up using some naval jelly and a wire brush to remove the rust. I had a few spots like this on the frame too.

I personally don't mind the results as I know I'll have the scoot for a bit longer. That being said ... IMHO I'm not sure I'd want the clear coat everywhere mainly due to the shine on the not so shiny scooter.
during...
during...
after... (enough patina for me)
after... (enough patina for me)
@scooterist avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
71' Sprint Veloce , 05' Vespa PX150, 1978 P200E
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1558
Location: Tucson, AZ
 
Molto Verboso
@scooterist avatar
71' Sprint Veloce , 05' Vespa PX150, 1978 P200E
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1558
Location: Tucson, AZ
UTC quote
I would only do it if you are concerned about rust because other than that the clear coat obviously has a different function.
@trumpyscooter avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
Black 2007 PX200, Dark green 1986 PX225 Pinasco, "1972"(yeah rite) Tangerine px200, several TRIUMPH TIGRESS SCOOTERS
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1082
Location: New Zealand
 
Molto Verboso
@trumpyscooter avatar
Black 2007 PX200, Dark green 1986 PX225 Pinasco, "1972"(yeah rite) Tangerine px200, several TRIUMPH TIGRESS SCOOTERS
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1082
Location: New Zealand
UTC quote
Syntagma, you did a good job on with that navel jelly

Most people think one coat is ok and dont take the time to do it for long enough.

You gotta watch the phosphates on the good paint, they can easily bleach it, especially if its lead based.

Yeah man, just keep T-cutting it back then get some waxoil or similar to keep the rust at bay, crc do a cpc product thats spray on, then it just takes some gas to wipe it off and do more of whatever you want to it
@joshzingzing avatar
UTC

Veni, Vidi, Posti
px200 cutdown,px180,px150. Puch SR. Puch scooterette
Joined: UTC
Posts: 5109
Location: west aus
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
@joshzingzing avatar
px200 cutdown,px180,px150. Puch SR. Puch scooterette
Joined: UTC
Posts: 5109
Location: west aus
UTC quote
i clean the vb1 with INOX and a dry cloth, does the job n i dont think its seen water in a looong time
@syntagma avatar
UTC

Hooked
150 Super,Fly 150
Joined: UTC
Posts: 417
Location: Seattle
 
Hooked
@syntagma avatar
150 Super,Fly 150
Joined: UTC
Posts: 417
Location: Seattle
UTC quote
TrumpyScooter wrote:
Syntagma, you did a good job on with that navel jelly

Most people think one coat is ok and dont take the time to do it for long enough.
Thanks, I appreciate it!

I wire/hard brushed it in, wiped it off, added a little more scrubbed and let it sit 45 min then rinsed. I did that 3 or 4 times and the results were ... as pictured . I'm really happy I did it too; the far left tab was about to get eaten though and it was fairly thin in places on the bottom.

I'm sorta wondering if I should do the underside of the rear wheel well too?
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