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Damn that's going to be cool! And I like the 2 Woodies!

If I may.. I don't think you'll be happy with the cable / remote master cylinder.. I tried it on my bike and it was only a tad (if that) better than the drum brake.. the cable pull ruins everything.. makes it really soft and not responsive.. I then switched it to fully hydraulic and it works as it should..

Your bike is looking like it's going to be heavy and fast.. and I think a real, solid front brake would benefit you!

You don't want to just run the hydraulic like from a master-c (they make headset mounted ones for Lambretta headsets) down the fork and to the caliper?

Anyway, really excellent project!

Cheers
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so I have finally gotten to the point, where I can solidify the position of the body, on the frame.

This is important, as the body has to clear the rear wheel, engine head and engine side in all shock positions.

This was EXTREMELY TIGHT!! I created a mounting plate for the body to rest on. That gave me the opportunity to get the body level (still needs some adjustment) I then heated the plate to create a slight curve in both directions. I plan to use a high density closed cell rubber, to shape a landing point. I will then weld some captured nuts for bolting the body to the frame.

With the body in place, I was able to start cutting the side covers and be confident that they will clear. I should also be able to reassess the center of the rear of the body and make it more narrow.

Next, are the master cylinders. They finally arrived and should work well. I will have to make mounting points Here they are zip tied to the body. The reservoirs should fit well inside the headset.
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⚠️ Last edited by 22350 on UTC; edited 2 times
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Vader19 wrote:
Damn that's going to be cool! And I like the 2 Woodies!

If I may.. I don't think you'll be happy with the cable / remote master cylinder.. I tried it on my bike and it was only a tad (if that) better than the drum brake.. the cable pull ruins everything.. makes it really soft and not responsive.. I then switched it to fully hydraulic and it works as it should..

Your bike is looking like it's going to be heavy and fast.. and I think a real, solid front brake would benefit you!

You don't want to just run the hydraulic like from a master-c (they make headset mounted ones for Lambretta headsets) down the fork and to the caliper?

Anyway, really excellent project!

Cheers
I hear what you are saying. I do think that part of the problems is the grimeca remote master cylinders. Most of the lambretta people use them and they are only 11mm piston units. All the stock hydraulics use 12mm.

The remote units I found are 12.7mm. Only time will tell.

If you want to see something really funny.... We needed to bench test a new flathead ford engine, but didn't have a second muffler, so we used the BV muffler.
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Mr. Clean
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Haaa.. that is funny! Good thinking.. use what you have on hand!

Whatever you decide w/ the brake, I'm sure you'll sort it out.. the project looks like a winner!

Cheers
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This thread is better than a movie.
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wow you make things look really simple!!!
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latest
So I was feeling like the back was starting to look a little long, so I decided to inset the tail light.
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Long time since last update.

I had to wait for the right welder to come back to town. I removed the frame and welded all the rear components together, which required breaking it loose from the front.

Now that all the rear is done, I can jig it back up and concentrate on the connection to the front.
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minor update.

i mounted the frame today and the back portion is locked. the next step is to align the wheels.

i will jig the wheels again and make the connection for the last time. after the connection is set, I will gusset the main joint. Then i can concentrate on the bodywork and how it mates to0 the frame.

Next is the air-box and the gas tank. Once done, I will mock up the wiring and we will discover that this engine is a dud.
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bv500
out of curiosity why has the steering angle changed so much since your first mock up ?
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The steering angle hasn't changed.

The two frame halves are sleeved and there is a joint, inside where the rear part of the frame connects to the original.

That joint had to be welded and the only way to do it was to disconnect the front from the back and slip it to the side.

Now that the back is welded, I have jacked the front back up and positioned it. I will now jig the wheels to align them, and weld, and gusset that connection.

What you are seeing is the frame joint not welded, so it is sitting free.
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So frame is back on and preparing to jig for final welding. There will be some serious gusseting going on. Don't worry.

Currently all the rear bodywork clears and I will be focusing on floorboards.
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Wow this is my first post on this forum, and it is in a nice project topick!
Looks good, but i have a question.
Are you making reinforcements between the steering kolumn, and the engine mounting?
To prevent the frame to bent and sag?

I also have a project with a piaggio 500cc Master engine.
Mine is from a piaggio X9.
This is a 460cc singlespark engine, with a seperate ECU.
What type of engine are you using?
If you need to know things about the engine, and the electronics for it, just ask.

Mine is for a Gilera Runner.

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Arnoh wrote:
Wow this is my first post on this forum, and it is in a nice project topick!
Looks good, but i have a question.
Are you making reinforcements between the steering kolumn, and the engine mounting?
To prevent the frame to bent and sag?

I also have a project with a piaggio 500cc Master engine.
Mine is from a piaggio X9.
This is a 460cc singlespark engine, with a seperate ECU.
What type of engine are you using?
If you need to know things about the engine, and the electronics for it, just ask.

Mine is for a Gilera Runner.

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I am using the exact same engine. Good looking project. I would suggest finding the original master engine mount. It will give you a big head start.

Regarding reinforcement, I am not using a separate bar, as the stock "old" lambretta frame is so much bigger.

I made the connection yesterday. I mocked and jigged the wheels with straight rails. When I started welding, I had everything exactly in line.

Then I made the mistake of trying to weld it myself. The welds were good, but not aesthetically up to snuff. So, I ground them down to tube level, and unbolted the frame from the engine to get the it positioned for another stab. That didn't come out right either, so I reground and decided to wait for someone better than myself.

I then noticed that the frame had shifted during the last welding. It shifted a couple of degrees right and twisted about a degree counter clockwise.

I am at a bit of a loss on how I want to proceed.

One option is a frame straightening shop, which would cost, but remove any doubt on wheel alignment.

I can certainly screw down some angle iron and use it as references to see where the wheels are out. Then I can heat the joint and move it, have the real welder run the bead and then gusset.
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I got the complete X9.
I will use the complete engine mounting.
The plan for the Gilera Runner is to build a strong frame around it, with the main parts aligned.
Then i will take the frame parts out to configurate the frame to a tube frame where the X9 500cc engine will fit in.
By this way all the hardpoints stay the same, and the mounting places for the plastic covers will be at the exact same place.

Arno
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Update on build.

I decided to go with Dr. John's Motorcycle frame straightening.

There are just certain things you don't skimp on..... parachutes, seat belts, helmets. you know.

The bike was delivered last week and I have to say that the set up was quite impressive. They turn the frame sideways and lock the steering column neck into place. Then they level the frame, using the rear wheel as the guide for true.

Dr. John said that the joint, and tube thickness (with gussets) was overkill. He said that he would had done overkill too, so we are on the same page.

He will straighten the joint, run a fresh weld on the circumference, then add the gussets. We should then be clear to work on bodywork and fitment.

He will also give me a couple more degrees of rake, so that my trail is increased.

In the meantime, I have obtained the replacement muffler. It will slip directly on to the stock header and the end lines up with the original Lambretta kick start notch on the original side cover.

Here is their "performance" muffler. I hope that this, in combination with a high flow air-box, will get me some horses.
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Finally out
So the frame if finished and out of DR. Johns.

My suspicion of crookedness was confirmed.

Managed to get another 3/8" of rake, to deal with the "trail" issue.

Also got the muffler mocked up.
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wow
Wow, it's all looking genius so far. Can't wait to see the finished paint job, and of course the 20 mirrors and 10 spotlights. Impressed and in awe. Gass silver machine gts 250
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very nice! those gussets on the rear frame connections look crazy beefy-- very well done!

i noticed the mention of Dr. John, and i see the woodies. I'm guessing that you're in close proximity to me, any chance that you do some work for Mr. Alexander?

keep up the inspiring work and the great documentation!

-g
⬆️    About 2 months elapsed    ⬇️
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Can we get an update please :
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Stunning work
Great work and pics ! Please give up some update as that bike will be blast !. Cheers Nerd emoticon
⬆️    About 2 months elapsed    ⬇️
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Hey everyone,

Been gone for a while, working on work sort of stuff.

Recently, I have been able to start up this project again and things are moving nicely.

I have attached one of the side covers to the body and that has worked well. I did do a stepped integration of the tail light integration, but it was ugly. So, I did some foam carving and I am getting ready to fix that.

The biggest problem right now is the front fender. To clear the top the the forks, is problematic. The efforts to do this started to distort the profile of the fender, so I committed to a strategy of relief cuts and forming.

I am happy with everything, but it requires modifications to the most detailed levels.

Here are some pictures
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dont fret the fender, it looks mad lynx
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Front fender drama continues
So, I have been doing a bunch of work on the front fender.

I trimmed the bottom of the horn cover, to move up the fender. It wasn't enough. So I heated the fender and exaggerated the depth of the cup, where the horn cover sits. This would move up top plain a little more.

This gave me the height. I cut some relief cuts, previously shown, to get rid of the bulging on the top of the fender.

After tons of welding, on this crap Indian steel, I got the top plain good. Re-welding the relief cuts gave me some of my bulging back. Once i get it back together, I think that I can handle this with some shrinking.

Another issue is where the fender meets the leg shield. The entire shape is different, so I heated that and reformed it. Still haven't gotten that right, but I am managing to make quite a mess of it.

In the last picture you can see the radiator being held up in its proposed position.

Once this is done, I can refocus on fixing the rear to match the foam carving.
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More front fender work.

This welder is fighting me. Wanted to lay a nice bead inside the re-profiled edge, but the wire was surging.

Got it done, but will have to clean the inside with a die grinder.
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The valves will be really easy to check
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Is your front fork to wide?

I have the choise of 3 forks.

On the upper left is from a Beverly 200.
Has also the mounting points for the 2 brake callipers.
And is a little smaller.

Upper right is the Beverly 500 fork.

On the floor is from a 500cc X9.
This one is pointing a little bit down.

I think for my runner the Beverly 500 will be the best option.

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Arnoh wrote:
Is your front fork to wide?

I have the choise of 3 forks.

On the upper left is from a Beverly 200.
Has also the mounting points for the 2 brake callipers.
And is a little smaller.

Upper right is the Beverly 500 fork.

On the floor is from a 500cc X9.
This one is pointing a little bit down.

I think for my runner the Beverly 500 will be the best option.

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The forks that are in there are the Beverly 500 forks. They are going to fit. Enlarging the front fender is helping the proportions of the front of the bike.

I did have the shorten the springs inside the forks two inches.

Thx
⬆️    About 3 months elapsed    ⬇️
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quick update
[img]I have been completely swamped for the last bit of time. BUT..... I decided to hire a body guy, who could move forward, while I did other things. That didn't work out. SO....

Finally stole some time to get on the front fender myself. Finally, the forks fit under the front fender. I just need to do some fine tuning and deal with how the horn cover interfaces with the top of the "now taller" top surface.
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This entire project is f**king awesome
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Really great project, please keep on posting pics, i love it!!
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Do you keep the original 260 brake disks?
I think i go for the 240 brake disks, so you don't see only brake disks and no wheels.
The 240 brake disks are the original rear brake disks, and they fit just perfect.
Only the adapter for the brake calliper has to be modified for the slightly smaller disk.

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Made a mockup yesterday with a 13 inch wheel and a 240 brake disk.
The brake calliper is not modified and on his original position.
And this is how that looks like.

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

What front wheel size do you have?
⬆️    About 1 year elapsed    ⬇️
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p2, jet2, lml166
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any updates?
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I baught a house, that needs my attention
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update .......
cant wait to see more of this awesome project ,wish you the best for your new home
⬆️    About 9 months elapsed    ⬇️
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Arnoh wrote:
Do you keep the original 260 brake disks?
I think i go for the 240 brake disks, so you don't see only brake disks and no wheels.
The 240 brake disks are the original rear brake disks, and they fit just perfect.
Only the adapter for the brake calliper has to be modified for the slightly smaller disk.

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text
I kept the original, but the rear disks might still be in order, if I can't make clearence.

Sorry everyone for the huge gap in posts. Opened a new business and this project has been mothballed.

Hope to get back on it soon.

P
⬆️    About 1 year elapsed    ⬇️
@arnoh avatar
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Gilera Runner 500cc.
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Any news on this project?
I just resumed with my Gilera Runner 500.
Made the frame to weld the Runner frame in place before i modify it.

Arno
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⬆️    About 1 month elapsed    ⬇️
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just put it up to sell on. I have an antique motorhome to finish and the kids need braces.

I have one guy looking, but if anyone else wants to jump into the deep end. email me: poberman66@gmail.com
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Any update regarding this one?
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