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I thought I'd start a thread about which fuel injector/carburetor cleaners and fuel stabilizers people are using.

I have my own thoughts about the subject. I've tried many different products in my vehicles over the years and this is the best I've come up with...

For good performance year round, and also for winter storage, I use my own special blend of fuel additives: One part Star Brite Star-Tron Enzyme Fuel Treatment (the super concentrated) to Six parts Lucas Upper Cylinder Lubricant and Injector Cleaner. I put 1/2 ounce of that mix in every full 2 gallon tank of fresh 93 octane gas in my Vespa GT200L.

If I was going to store a vehicle longer than a year, I would use K100 fuel treatment in the gas. There is nothing better, but it's more expensive.
see: http://www.k100fueltreatment.com/k100-products.html

If you have a vehicle with poor performance from dirty injectors there's nothing better than Chevron Techron. My friend, who has an older BMW 7 series with that problem ran two bottles of the concentrated formula that treats 20 gallons. He used them, one fill up after another, and it totally fixed the problem.

And don't ever use Sta-bil. Sta-bil does not work, and even goes bad in the bottle once it's opened. It's made from monkey piss. Better to use nothing at all than Sta-bil.

I always run the tank to near empty before a fill up, so there is never any stale gas in the system. I use that mix in all my vehicles, cars and motorcycles and scooters. One ounce to every four gallons of gas. I believe it also improves fuel economy, and the Star-Tron stabilizes the gas we get around here which has 10% ethanol.

If you can find a station with gas that has no ethanol, you're ahead of the game. Ethanol in gas is very bad for an engine, and one of the dumbest ideas ever. That's a whole discussion in itself.

You can save and buy the Lucas and Star-Tron in both 32 oz. and gallon sizes. Will last a very long time. The Lucas product, in addition to cleaning injectors, provides instant lubrication when you start a cold engine. And, I always let any cold engine warm up 30 seconds to a minute before pulling away, even in the summertime.

Jay Leno raves about Lucas products in his Jay Leno's Garage series on YouTube.com.

-fullthrottle.

P.S.: If you decide to try the mix described above in your own vehicles, the measurements are based on the super concentrated Star Brite Star-Tron. They make two different concentrations, and the super concentrated formula is part #93032 for the 32 oz. bottle, which treats 512 gallons. I haven't bought the gallon size yet, but here's some links to some good deals on Amazon.com.

Star-Tron 1 Gal:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0068ENYTG/

Lucas 1 Gal:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FW7V50/
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Seafoam!
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Seafoam isn't bad, either. I've used either an entire bottle of that or Chevron Techron in my cars every 10,000 miles for a complete injector cleaning. Haven't used it in a scooter, though.
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I run a few treated tanks through every few thousand miles. I've used Star-tron also, but it caused bad gas mileage.
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Al Davis wrote:
I run a few treated tanks through every few thousand miles. I've used Star-tron also, but it caused bad gas mileage.
Really? I'm surprised by that. It's such a minute amount. I use it mainly for the fuel stabilization it provides. It's second best only to the K100.

The Lucas product claims to improve gas mileage. But, I like that is a lubricant as well as a cleaner, which helps with cold starts, and a smoother running engine with more power.

For us old timers who remember when gas had a tiny bit of lead in it, that also provided lubrication to the engine. Another dumb idea to remove that.

Gasoline used to have an oily feel, if you got some on your hands. Unleaded gas with ethanol dries right away. No lubrication at all.
⚠️ Last edited by fullthrottle on UTC; edited 2 times
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I've heard of using pure naptha for injector cleaning.
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Al Davis wrote:
I've heard of using pure naptha for injector cleaning.
I believe that's in Marvel Mystery Oil. I stay away from that.
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fullthrottle wrote:
Al Davis wrote:
I've heard of using pure naptha for injector cleaning.
I believe that's in Marvel Mystery Oil. I stay away from that.
It's in Seafoam also. MMO is crap.
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I've never, ever bothered to use extra additive in any fuel. Never felt the need, never had any problems. Forecourt petrol comes with enough additives as it is!
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Sta-bil is monkey piss. Marvel Mystery Oil is crap.

Chevron Techron is the stuff that's licensed to just about every oil company in the world who adds it to their gas at the pump as a detergent. The concentrate really works for poor performance caused by serious injector blockage. Every mechanic I've ever talked to says it's the best for that.

Seafoam is good.
Lucas is good.
Star-Tron is good. IMO.

I've found most of the others to be mediocre and a waste of money: STP, Gumout, etc.

On the Maserati forum, I heard about BG 44K. That looks good too, but it's expensive.
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jimc wrote:
I've never, ever bothered to use extra additive in any fuel. Never felt the need, never had any problems. Forecourt petrol comes with enough additives as it is!
If you ride through a tankful faster than it takes for gas with ethanol to separate and go bad (1 to 2 months), you don't have to worry about using a fuel stabilizer. And, the additive in your gas at the pump is enough to keep your engine clean.

I have so many vehicles that I don't get to ride them all as much as my daily driver. So, it's an issue for me.

That's why I'm selling one of my motorcycles and one of my scooters. Don't have time to ride them all, and the maintenance costs multiply.
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I use seafoam in my scooter and with my car. It works pretty well you can really feel the difference after using it.
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+1 for Seafoam
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Yes for Seafoam! It seems to keep water from appearing in my gas tank. Use to have problems with water, mechanic told me it was because of the way our weather can go hot to cold and back at the drop of a hat.
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How on earth will water get into your plastic tank?
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Ethanol added to gasoline draws moisture from the air. Gas and water don't mix. But, ethanol and water does.

That's why ethanol is so bad. It holds water and then the gas and ethanol separate, and leads to rough running.

Therefore, fuel stabilizers are needed to keep the ethanol/water/gasoline all in suspension so the water gets burned off.
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jimc wrote:
How on earth will water get into your plastic tank?
I've always suspected poorly maintained gas distro systems, including gas stations, as the cause.
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rkcoker wrote:
jimc wrote:
How on earth will water get into your plastic tank?
I've always suspected poorly maintained gas distro systems, including gas stations, as the cause.
Doubtful. More likely it's the ethanol.
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Seriously, with the sealed system the US bikes have (Evap Crap), how much moisture can E-10 fuel absorb? I forget all my chemistry, but there must be a certain ratio of E-10 fuel to 100% saturated air in that ~9 litre tank that would maximise water absorption by the ethanol content. I very much doubt that the amount absorbed would be anywhere near a significant amount - but if someone who does have the relevant math to mind can correct me I'd be fine with that.
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Trust me, it's the ethanol. It doesn't take a lot of moisture to be a problem. And every time you open the gas cap, air goes in. And no system is 100% air tight.

That's why, if you don't drive often, it's better to fill a tank all the way up, and use a fuel stabilizer, like the Star-Tron I mentioned, than it is to put small amounts of gas in at a time.

The bigger the tank, the bigger the problem. I never fill a car, or any vehicle half way. Fill it all the way up, and drive it to near empty.
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Unless you actually have a gummed up carb or injectors, it is hard to tell scientifically speaking if any of the stuff is working. I had a Metropolitan scooter that had set for years and the carb was gummed up so that the scoot would only idle. Soon as you gave it some throttle, it would die. I tried a bunch of stuff...carb cleaner directly into the intake, Seafoam added to gas, Chemtool, and eventually, the only thing that allowed me to get the revs up was starting fluid squirted directly into the air box. Starting fluid works! Costs $2 a can at Walmart, btw. I don't think it cleans out much, but it gets the fuel through the carb. Anyway what does work to clean out gummy carbs and injectors is running the scooter...long and hard and going through a couple tanks of gas. I don't think any of that other stuff (snake oil) does much except drain your wallet. Run the scooter and let the additives in the gas along with the flow of gas through the system do it's job. If you don't ride the scoot enough, nothing is going to work and if you do ride, you don't need anything. That Metro after 300 miles was starting and running like new.
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Ethanol free gasoline, and a yearly treatment of an oz. of Jectron when I use the bulk of the Lubro Moly product in the Camry. I occasionally run a winter tank of ethanol free in the cage. JimC is actually making sense about the moisture, especially in cages. Are any fuel system not closed these days? If my fuel cap doesn't seal I get all sorts of bells and whistles. So how do damaging amounts of moisture get in? I have had problems with lawn and garden equipment, but they are open systems and stored in very cold and high humidity environments. Using ethane free has meant none of them have need any Seafoam.
MNScooter wrote:
Hi,

There's nothing inherently wrong with using SeaFoam except that you're paying the equivalent of $44 - $50/gal. for it.

It's not some exotic proprietary concoction like Techron or Jectron, it's 3 simple ingredients which you can buy at Loews or Menards for less than half the price and simply mix them together in the correct proportions.

From SeaFoam's MSDS Sheet, their product contains:
    PALE OIL (Kerosene) - 40-60% (by weight)

    NAPHTHA (VM&P Naphtha) - 25-35% (by weight)
    (you can also substitute Zippo Lighter Fluid which is 100% Naphta)

    IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol) - 10-20% (by weight)
This is an old recipe used by Hot Rodders to keep their valves clean in the 1930's (exactly when SeaFoam was 1st marketed). Hope this helps...

Happy Motoring!... Jim
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UTC quote
Al Davis wrote:
fullthrottle wrote:
Al Davis wrote:
I've heard of using pure naptha for injector cleaning.
I believe that's in Marvel Mystery Oil. I stay away from that.
It's in Seafoam also. MMO is crap.
Its all light, solvent based top-oil. Seafoam, and MMO the same basic stuff in a different "flavor" and they're both fine when used per the instructions and in moderation. Neither is "crap"...they've both been around for decades.
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Seafoam but i don't use it anymore since i fill up with ethanol free all the time.
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According to Wikipedia.com, Marvel Mystery Oil contains 1% lard. I don't want that in my engine.
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judy wrote:
Seafoam but i don't use it anymore since i fill up with ethanol free all the time.
Rub it in why don't ya. Razz emoticon Between having easy access to ethanol free and having 80 degree Decembers, Hawaii is on my radar!
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AL come on over the water is wonderful this time of year. It's not all good over here tho.
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gogogordy wrote:
...they've both been around for decades.
Not what I'd call an especially compelling sales pitch.
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tomjasz wrote:
gogogordy wrote:
...they've both been around for decades.
Not what I'd call an especially compelling sales pitch.
Haha, a legacy product.

I'm sure we agree that most products don't last that long without SOME redeeming qualities?
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gogogordy wrote:
tomjasz wrote:
gogogordy wrote:
...they've both been around for decades.
Not what I'd call an especially compelling sales pitch.
Haha, a legacy product.

I'm sure we agree that most products don't last that long without SOME redeeming qualities?
I've been with women that contradict that point.
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Al Davis wrote:
Seafoam!
That's what I use. But be careful with the storage. The trick is to tighten the cap really well before storing it. Treat seafoam like brake fluid. It is corrosive and will eat up your paint and your other components as well. Be particularly careful with the gas hole o'ring and no spills. Abosolutely no spills is best.
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Every 5k
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Star-Tron doesn't have that corrosion problem, and is a true fuel stabilizer in addition to being an injector cleaner. It prevents phase separation.

My motorcycle dealer has a display of small bottles of gas, a little water and various fuel additives. In all of them, except Star-Tron and K100, the gas stays separate from the additive and water.

Seeing is believing. You can shake the bottles and see how fast all the others separate again.

K100 is the best, but it's expensive.
Star-Tron is second best.

I did go ahead and buy the gallon size of Star-Tron. It treats 2,048 gallons.
A little goes a long way.
⚠️ Last edited by fullthrottle on UTC; edited 1 time
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Max6200 wrote:
Al Davis wrote:
Seafoam!
Be particularly careful with the gas hole o'ring and no spills. Abosolutely no spills is best.
I tell this to all my gals. It can get messy. A good gal cleans up.
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fullthrottle wrote:
Star-Tron doesn't have that corrosion problem, and is a true fuel stabilizer in addition to being an injector cleaner. It prevents phase separation.
I am not sold.
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Hello from Florida
I did my research on this subject. Fuel tanks are designed to breathe. Evap canisters control hydrocarbons not moisture. Ethanol acts like a solvent that can dissolve varnish from a fuel tank. Ethanol is alcohol, so if you are treating for ethanol, the treatment shouldn't contain alcohol. If you are treating to clean the system, then the treatment can contain alcohol. If it is corrosive it probably has alcohol in it. The best way to prevent water from entering the fuel system is to NOT let your vehicle sit long with an empty tank.
The reason water collects at the bottom of a fuel tank is ethanol absorbs water and phase separation. Star-Tron prevents phase separation. It doesn't absorb water!!!
I use non-ethanol gas in my SH, but my BV has 12 to 1 compression so I need 93 gas. The only non-ethanol gas I can find is 90. I use Star-Tron.
The solution is simple. Are you treating to clean the system or preventing phase separation?
Scoot on Y'all.
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fullthrottle wrote:
According to Wikipedia.com, Marvel Mystery Oil contains 1% lard. I don't want that in my engine.
But it makes GREAT fried okra.
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Customer: well... my bike is running really rough and it stalls

Me: oh, has it been sitting awhile?

customer: oh, yeah it was for (insert any timeframe over 1 month)

me: oh, yeah, you're probably gonna need a carb clean.

customer: but i just put a whole bottle of (insert your choice of snake oil) in the tank

me: oh?

customer: well, yeah i read on the interwebz that if i put "X" in there it'll be fine

me: [face palm] here's the number for the towing company...

-g
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Facepalm emoticon Clap emoticon
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breaknwind wrote:
Hello from Florida
I did my research on this subject. Fuel tanks are designed to breathe. Evap canisters control hydrocarbons not moisture. Ethanol acts like a solvent that can dissolve varnish from a fuel tank. Ethanol is alcohol, so if you are treating for ethanol, the treatment shouldn't contain alcohol. If you are treating to clean the system, then the treatment can contain alcohol. If it is corrosive it probably has alcohol in it. The best way to prevent water from entering the fuel system is to NOT let your vehicle sit long with an empty tank.
The reason water collects at the bottom of a fuel tank is ethanol absorbs water and phase separation. Star-Tron prevents phase separation. It doesn't absorb water!!!
I use non-ethanol gas in my SH, but my BV has 12 to 1 compression so I need 93 gas. The only non-ethanol gas I can find is 90. I use Star-Tron.
The solution is simple. Are you treating to clean the system or preventing phase separation?
Scoot on Y'all.
Did someone fart? Tried it in my flux capacitor but no go.
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