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Hooked
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Hooked
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"Lights on" warning light is missing and this might be the reason:

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

I don't know what caused this, but I would like to repair it. Any ideas? I'm thinking a small wire and hot glue. Solder iron might be too hot and big for this.

Edit: The scooter is PX200 2003.
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Molto Verboso
'64 Motovespa 150S (177) , '65 VBB, '66 Allstate SF, '66 180SS
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Molto Verboso
@moto64 avatar
'64 Motovespa 150S (177) , '65 VBB, '66 Allstate SF, '66 180SS
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UTC quote
Auto rear window defroster repair ? It's a conductive paint to bridge breaks in the little copper strips.
http://www.autobarn.net/per21351.html?site=google_base&gclid=CMa2ya6x2rsCFSLxOgodwzQAbg
@aviator47 avatar
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Moderator
2006 PX 150 & Malossi Kitted Malaguti Yesterday (Wife's)
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@aviator47 avatar
2006 PX 150 & Malossi Kitted Malaguti Yesterday (Wife's)
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UTC quote
Hot glue will not provide a conducting bond. Use a low watt (25 W) soldering iron with a fine tip. Heat the wire jumper first, along with some solder, then place it and the tip of the iron on the circuit lead, let the solder run onto the circuit lead, count to three slowly, and then remove the iron.

Or, simply bypass the printed circuit trace with a wire from the star point to the end point.
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Addicted
1961 vbb and 1981 p125x
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Addicted
1961 vbb and 1981 p125x
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From what Ive found with these membrane type boards is there really isnt a way to repair them. The vibration is to much for any of the adhesive type repairs and even the low temp irons tend to burn. Keep on mind most of these boards have a layer of plastic over the wire as well as under. You're not out anything to try but may want to look for a replacement .
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Hooked
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Hooked
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Thanks for your answers. I haven't done anything for this yet. I managed to scrape plastic layer off without breaking the lead. So something could be done, or at least try. Someone else saw those tiny cracks at plastic, which might cause this burn, if it cracked the copper lead.

I would like to repair this gauge to keep original odo readings.
@t5bitza69 avatar
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Veni, Vidi, Posti
T5s
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Veni, Vidi, Posti
@t5bitza69 avatar
T5s
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UTC quote
another idea
you could buy a new one n wind it on to match yours ..... honesty is the best policy
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Hooked
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Hooked
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These are solid, so you cannot open this without breaking it. And with a drill it would take 8 days to get 19 000 km, if drill spins for example 100km/h.
@t5bitza69 avatar
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Veni, Vidi, Posti
T5s
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Veni, Vidi, Posti
@t5bitza69 avatar
T5s
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onion skins
i was talkin used not new...... can ya still get new?????
id try the conducive paint then seal it with hot glue
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Molto Verboso
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Molto Verboso
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What they said. A single, hair-sized strand, stripped from a section of stranded copper wire will pass enough current. Tin it first, lay it across the gap, then solder each end. A piece of tape on top will insulate it and dampen vibrations. If solder won't stick to the wire you chose, find one that will.

It also helps to tin (melt solder onto) the cleaned end gaps first and make sure the solder sticks before applying the wire.
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Hooked
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Hooked
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Re: onion skins
T5bitza69 wrote:
i was talkin used not new...... can ya still get new?????
Ofcourse, this is almost modern from year 2003.
T5bitza69 wrote:
id try the conducive paint then seal it with hot glue
That's exactly what I was thinking at some point. Thanks for "Moto64". But those paints are very expensive in my country.

So I thought there's not much to lose. I set my Weller up to 350c and give it a go. Luckily plastic didn't melt and after some time I managed to get connection:

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

I put some hot glue to support and protect the connection:

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

If this was even a bit helpful please give me even a few thumbs up as I have a slightly negative karma. I don't even know why. It makes me sad.
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