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2012 MP3 500cc LT
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Just purchased a pair of Gerbing heated gloves.

They connect to the battery direct, the fused cable then hangs out from under the seat. Am I right in thinking that the cable is always live, even when the ignition is off?

If it is, is that a good idea? The end that pokes out under the seat does have a cover on it, but still.....

Is there a better way of connecting them?

Thanks
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UTC quote
Re: Heated gloves fed direct from the battery, a good idea?
Estaban wrote:
Just purchased a pair of Gerbing heated gloves.

They connect to the battery direct, the fused cable then hangs out from under the seat. Am I right in thinking that the cable is always live, even when the ignition is off?

If it is, is that a good idea? The end that pokes out under the seat does have a cover on it, but still.....

Is there a better way of connecting them?

Thanks
Yes, you are correct. The wiring will always be live, and a load on the battery when the engine is not running will drain the battery (like if you leave the gloves connected). Additionally, the wiring directly to the fuse itself from battery connection is unprotected and anything that compromises the insulation on that wire could result in a nasty short-circuit.

You were planning on having a scooter electrician install a fuse block and 12V receptacle(s), were you not? The fuse block would be powered only when the engine is running if installed the way is typically done for accessories. This would be the best way to power your heated gloves.


. . . .
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UTC quote
Re: Heated gloves fed direct from the battery, a good idea?
BravoTwoFour wrote:
Estaban wrote:
Just purchased a pair of Gerbing heated gloves.

They connect to the battery direct, the fused cable then hangs out from under the seat. Am I right in thinking that the cable is always live, even when the ignition is off?

If it is, is that a good idea? The end that pokes out under the seat does have a cover on it, but still.....

Is there a better way of connecting them?

Thanks
Yes, you are correct. The wiring will always be live, and a load on the battery when the engine is not running will drain the battery (like if you leave the gloves connected). Additionally, the wiring directly to the fuse itself from battery connection is unprotected and anything that compromises the insulation on that wire could result in a nasty short-circuit.

You were planning on having a scooter electrician install a fuse block and 12V receptacle(s), were you not? The fuse block would be powered only when the engine is running if installed the way is typically done for accessories. This would be the best way to power your heated gloves.


. . . .
Mine is powered via a 12v adaptor attached to the alarm connector. It is also switched at the connection so is always live but controlled if you see what I mean
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UTC quote
Thanks for the reply.

Wasn`t planning a `fuse block` as such, the only definite is 12 volt receptacles and possibly a Stebel horn.

The cable from the battery comes from under the seat which puts it in the right place for plugging into the cable that hangs from your jacket, so I presume you wouldn`t want it connected at the front.

Are there any other options?

Thanks
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Re: Heated gloves fed direct from the battery, a good idea?
ashbrook wrote:
BravoTwoFour wrote:
Yes, you are correct. The wiring will always be live, and a load on the battery when the engine is not running will drain the battery (like if you leave the gloves connected). Additionally, the wiring directly to the fuse itself from battery connection is unprotected and anything that compromises the insulation on that wire could result in a nasty short-circuit.

You were planning on having a scooter electrician install a fuse block and 12V receptacle(s), were you not? The fuse block would be powered only when the engine is running if installed the way is typically done for accessories. This would be the best way to power your heated gloves.


. . . .
Mine is powered via a 12v adaptor attached to the alarm connector. It is also switched at the connection so is always live but controlled if you see what I mean
There is a 15 amp fused power source available at the "Anti-Theft Preset" connector (blue wire, pin 4), according to the wiring plan that I have ("MP3 500-Fuoco Wiring Diagram (USA ONLY)"). However, that circuit is also always live so there is still the possibility of draining the battery down if the engine is not running and a load remains on that circuit.



. . . .
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Estaban wrote:
Thanks for the reply.

Wasn`t planning a `fuse block` as such, the only definite is 12 volt receptacles and possibly a Stebel horn.

The cable from the battery comes from under the seat which puts it in the right place for plugging into the cable that hangs from your jacket, so I presume you wouldn`t want it connected at the front.

Are there any other options?

Thanks
If you are adding receptacles and a horn you will need power distribution and circuit protection, hence an additional fuse block. Cheap and best way to do it. Easy enough to run a circuit from the fuse block to the heated gloves power connection.

In the meantime, if the best location for the heated gloves power connection is hanging out from under the front of the seat, just be sure the fuse is as close as possible to the battery connection, and then remember not to use the connection much or for very long when the engine is not running.


. . . .
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If using the `new` fuse block under the front somewhere, that would mean running a cable from the battery to the fuse block and back under the seat, or would a feed be taken from somewhere else to the new fuse block?

As I mentioned in the original thread, I may use a local auto electrician who knows nothing about the MP3, so I may need to point him in the right direction. So any suggestions re the wiring for fuse block, receptacles, horn etc would be helpful.

Back to the gloves, the cable that is supplied does have the fuse holder close to the battery end, I do not foresee any major problem as the cable to the gloves stays in the jacket, so practically impossible to leave the bike with the gloves still connected. Damage to the wire is potentially still an issue though.

Having said that, I do have the cigarette lighter socket under the seat not used most of the time, would it be better to have the end of the gloves cable changed into a cigarette lighter plug and use that for the 3-4 months of the year when I will want to use the gloves?

Thanks for all the replies.
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Estaban wrote:
If using the `new` fuse block under the front somewhere, that would mean running a cable from the battery to the fuse block and back under the seat, or would a feed be taken from somewhere else to the new fuse block?
Yes, it would mean installing a fuse at the battery (probably 30 amp) and routing a larger wire to a fuseblock (best location is under dash, so short fused runs to receptacles and relays and horn). Then you route a smaller wire back to your gloves connection from the fuse block.

There are many places on this forum where this is discussed and numerous sketches and diagrams of how to do it. Search for keywords like 'stebel', 'fuse', 'block', and 'relay'. This was a good thread with a really nice fuse block at the link, provides switches or constant 12V: Installing new fuseblock
Estaban wrote:
Back to the gloves, the cable that is supplied does have the fuse holder close to the battery end, I do not foresee any major problem as the cable to the gloves stays in the jacket, so practically impossible to leave the bike with the gloves still connected. Damage to the wire is potentially still an issue though.

Having said that, I do have the cigarette lighter socket under the seat not used most of the time, would it be better to have the end of the gloves cable changed into a cigarette lighter plug and use that for the 3-4 months of the year when I will want to use the gloves?
That would be a simple, safe and straight-forward way to have your gloves powered now. The receptacle is on a 15 amp fuse, plenty of current; you could even get a socket splitter and still have a USB adapter or whatever operating simultaneously. Only issue might be the plug vibrating loose when you are riding, but that can be solved with a good quality plug.


. . . .
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UTC quote
Thanks BravoTwoFour, you have been a great help.

I am now leaning towards using a Piaggio dealer rather than a local guy. Although more expensive rates, they should get it done a lot quicker so it should even itself out.

I think I will connect the gloves to the battery temporarily and get them to add the 12v plug when they do the rest.

Thanks again.
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UTC quote
Estaban wrote:
Thanks BravoTwoFour, you have been a great help.

I am now leaning towards using a Piaggio dealer rather than a local guy. Although more expensive rates, they should get it done a lot quicker so it should even itself out.

I think I will connect the gloves to the battery temporarily and get them to add the 12v plug when they do the rest.

Thanks again.
My pleasure! Happy new year to you and yours!


. . . .
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UTC quote
mp3 500 with 12V outlet
I have a 2009 mp3 500 and it has an 12V outlet under the seat... can't it handle the gerbing heated gloves without frying anything?
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Re: mp3 500 with 12V outlet
eigdom wrote:
I have a 2009 mp3 500 and it has an 12V outlet under the seat... can't it handle the gerbing heated gloves without frying anything?
Asked and answered above in this thread!


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