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@masala avatar
UTC

Veni, Vidi, Posti
946
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Location: Acworth, GA
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
@masala avatar
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Location: Acworth, GA
UTC quote
As some of you might recall, I picked up a GS150 last summer. I've gotten around to replacing the old, dry tires and tubes. I'm starting with the front, and while its off, I'd like to refresh the rims. There was/is some light surface rust on the inside of the rim where it meets the bead of the tire, but nothing so awful that kept me from removing it from the tire.

Having not done this sort of project before, can anyone get me started in the right direction? I'd like to DIY as much as possible, so I guess I need to know:

-how to best remove rust and old paint? Media blast or wire brush + elbow grease? Paint thinner?
- primer + paint - any variety or shade that is the "go to" for silver Vespa wheels?
- nuts and washers: reuse or replace?

Thanks in advance...
UTC

Veni, Vidi, Posti
Joined: UTC
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Location: Tega Cay, SC
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
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Location: Tega Cay, SC
UTC quote
I don't know the right way, I only know my way. If not too bad as you said - wire brush on a drill, sand a little, use Ospho to stabilize the rust, paint with rustoleum. If you are having these powder coated, forget everything I just wrote. Throw the nuts and washers away and start with new unless they are something very hard to replace. Good luck and post some pictures when you can.
@socalguy avatar
UTC

bodgemaster
63 GL, 76 Super (x2), 74 Primavera (x2), 79 P200, 06 Fly 150
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bodgemaster
@socalguy avatar
63 GL, 76 Super (x2), 74 Primavera (x2), 79 P200, 06 Fly 150
Joined: UTC
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UTC quote
We just had our wheels and hubs blasted and powder coated last week. They look great and it didn't cost much.

While it's possible to do a good DIY paint job, frankly it's a lot of work and usually not worth it. Getting all the old paint and rust off, priming, repainting is messy, time consuming, and takes patience and skill. Unless you have the right spray equipment and use a high quality automotive paint, it's almost impossible to get a finish that will look good and LAST. As for the nuts and washers, unless they're original, I'd replace them.
@vader19 avatar
UTC

Mr. Clean
P,SUPER,V90, 50 Special
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Location: This is't my locker!
 
Mr. Clean
@vader19 avatar
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Location: This is't my locker!
UTC quote
SoCalGuy wrote:
We just had our wheels and hubs blasted and powder coated last week. They look great and it didn't cost much.
Hey man, who did you use for the PC?
@socalguy avatar
UTC

bodgemaster
63 GL, 76 Super (x2), 74 Primavera (x2), 79 P200, 06 Fly 150
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bodgemaster
@socalguy avatar
63 GL, 76 Super (x2), 74 Primavera (x2), 79 P200, 06 Fly 150
Joined: UTC
Posts: 7223
Location: So Cal
UTC quote
Vader19 wrote:
SoCalGuy wrote:
We just had our wheels and hubs blasted and powder coated last week. They look great and it didn't cost much.
Hey man, who did you use for the PC?
San Diego Powder & Protective Coatings. Just picked them up yesterday, here they are, still in the box, nicely wrapped, ready to go on the bike.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
@vader19 avatar
UTC

Mr. Clean
P,SUPER,V90, 50 Special
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Mr. Clean
@vader19 avatar
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UTC quote
Thanks man..I was thinking you were in LA for some reason.

doink!
@v_oodoo avatar
UTC

Style Maven
'74 50s x3 '87 PK125XL '92 PK50XLS Plurimatic - & - '58 AllState '68 Sprint '66(?) Super125 '72 DanMotor Super150 and '04 Bajaj LML hybrid
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Style Maven
@v_oodoo avatar
'74 50s x3 '87 PK125XL '92 PK50XLS Plurimatic - & - '58 AllState '68 Sprint '66(?) Super125 '72 DanMotor Super150 and '04 Bajaj LML hybrid
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Location: seattle/athens
UTC quote
rattlecan
Tierney wrote:
I don't know the right way, I only know my way. If not too bad as you said - wire brush on a drill, sand a little, use Ospho to stabilize the rust, paint with rustoleum. If you are having these powder coated, forget everything I just wrote. Throw the nuts and washers away and start with new unless they are something very hard to replace. Good luck and post some pictures when you can.
I pretty much do this, but use a couple of coats of good primer, sanding between coats & finishing w/ wet sanding. Then a couple of coats of silver, let dry and finally a couple of coats of clear top coat for gloss and depth. Not powder coating tough, but they look as good or better than original and seem to hold up well if you use quality paint. Plus the satisfaction, right?

SoCalGuy, outa curiosity, what's that cost for PC? They do look pretty good!
@socalguy avatar
UTC

bodgemaster
63 GL, 76 Super (x2), 74 Primavera (x2), 79 P200, 06 Fly 150
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Location: So Cal
 
bodgemaster
@socalguy avatar
63 GL, 76 Super (x2), 74 Primavera (x2), 79 P200, 06 Fly 150
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UTC quote
Thanks Voodoo, it came to $40 per wheel, $30 per hub. That included everything - blasting, masking, anti-gas primer, and coating.

FYI the photo doesn't do the finish justice. It's almost flawless. And rock hard. I'll post more pics once the wheels are on the scooter.

When you consider the time it takes to sand, prep, mask, prime, sand again, prep again, paint again, sand again, etc. - then add in the cost of materials, then throw in paint fumes, overspray, and the general hassle of painting - to me powder coating is a bargain.
.
@socalguy avatar
UTC

bodgemaster
63 GL, 76 Super (x2), 74 Primavera (x2), 79 P200, 06 Fly 150
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bodgemaster
@socalguy avatar
63 GL, 76 Super (x2), 74 Primavera (x2), 79 P200, 06 Fly 150
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Location: So Cal
UTC quote
Some pics.
^ Before ^
^ Before ^
^ After ^
^ After ^
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
@vyatka avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
'61 GS150Cushman '63 GS160, '74 Primavera, '77 Rally 200,'80 P200E '05 PX150,'13 946,'64 Vyatka VP150,'77 Vyatka-Elektron,'07 GTS250, '63Tula200M
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Molto Verboso
@vyatka avatar
'61 GS150Cushman '63 GS160, '74 Primavera, '77 Rally 200,'80 P200E '05 PX150,'13 946,'64 Vyatka VP150,'77 Vyatka-Elektron,'07 GTS250, '63Tula200M
Joined: UTC
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UTC quote
Re: Vintage noob wheel refinishing question
Masala wrote:
As some of you might recall, I picked up a GS150 last summer. I've gotten around to replacing the old, dry tires and tubes. I'm starting with the front, and while its off, I'd like to refresh the rims. There was/is some light surface rust on the inside of the rim where it meets the bead of the tire, but nothing so awful that kept me from removing it from the tire.

Having not done this sort of project before, can anyone get me started in the right direction? I'd like to DIY as much as possible, so I guess I need to know:

-how to best remove rust and old paint? Media blast or wire brush + elbow grease? Paint thinner?
- primer + paint - any variety or shade that is the "go to" for silver Vespa wheels?
- nuts and washers: reuse or replace?

Thanks in advance...
NOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Keep the patina. It will add the charm and will keep the bike looking real vintage.
I didn't change or brush the rims, definitely got new tires but keeping the original ones too. You don't see Michelins Made in Italy in1970's anymore
@dwight_schmidt avatar
UTC

Hooked
1974 Rally (3), 1971 Rally 180, 1960 Li 125
Joined: UTC
Posts: 426
Location: Southern California, USA
 
Hooked
@dwight_schmidt avatar
1974 Rally (3), 1971 Rally 180, 1960 Li 125
Joined: UTC
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Location: Southern California, USA
UTC quote
SoCalGuy, wow those look great. I plan to do the same with my front fork. Was there a specific color you choose or are there stock colors that are close to the original finish? Thanks!
@odiewan avatar
UTC

Hooked
P125X
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Location: San Diego
 
Hooked
@odiewan avatar
P125X
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Location: San Diego
UTC quote
Keep the patina. It's a good look.
@socalguy avatar
UTC

bodgemaster
63 GL, 76 Super (x2), 74 Primavera (x2), 79 P200, 06 Fly 150
Joined: UTC
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Location: So Cal
 
bodgemaster
@socalguy avatar
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Location: So Cal
UTC quote
Dwight Schmidt wrote:
SoCalGuy, wow those look great. I plan to do the same with my front fork. Was there a specific color you choose or are there stock colors that are close to the original finish? Thanks!
Thanks Dwight. It's called "Anodized Silver". There were literally 20 different shades of silver-aluminum to choose from. I don't know how close it is to original. I just picked it because it looked right to me. Glad you like it!
UTC

Addicted
1961 vbb and 1981 p125x
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Addicted
1961 vbb and 1981 p125x
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UTC quote
I use a DA sander to remove paint and rust. It takes it down to metal pretty fast. Can be a little of a pain in tight spots. Start with a 60 grit and work up to 120 and finish with 220. Do yourself a favor and go to an auto paint dealer to get all your paints and primers. Some primers will react with your paint and leave you sanding a second time. Some cheap clears are laqure base and will also react with most name brand base coats. For nuts and bolts I like to use an ultra sonic cleaner to clean them up if they are just rusty. If the heads are messed up I replace them. Never clear over polished alm it just chips off and looks worse over time.
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Hooked
2009 Stella,
Joined: UTC
Posts: 134
Location: PA
 
Hooked
2009 Stella,
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UTC quote
Be careful about multiple layers of paint on the rims' inner surfaces where the tube and tire bead will lay. Some paints (especially anti-rust types like rustoleum) require an extended period to fully cure and can cause problems if the tube and tire are mounted too soon. (If you put your nose to the rims and it still has a paint smell, then it's not fully cured.)

After rust removal, using either a baked-on paint, a powder coat or just a fast dry primer on these inner surfaces avoids this problem.
@oopsclunkthud avatar
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Banned
3:5
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UTC quote
If the rust is light I'd just hit the inner surface with ospho and call it good for now.

I don't recall, did your VS4 have a VS5 front hub or are we talking the really cool VS4 rims?
OP
@masala avatar
UTC

Veni, Vidi, Posti
946
Joined: UTC
Posts: 6165
Location: Acworth, GA
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
@masala avatar
946
Joined: UTC
Posts: 6165
Location: Acworth, GA
UTC quote
oopsclunkthud wrote:
If the rust is light I'd just hit the inner surface with ospho and call it good for now.

I don't recall, did your VS4 have a VS5 front hub or are we talking the really cool VS4 rims?
The former...VS5. I picked up a wire brush attachment at Lowes today for my drill. Plan is to just clean up the insides - specifically the bead surface - and go.

With CMI coming up in a month, and (likely) some great weekends for riding, now's not the time
to start researching local powder coaters...
@sfvsr avatar
UTC

Ossessionato
a lambretta or two
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Ossessionato
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UTC quote
Those powder coated rims look really nice.
UTC

Ossessionato
Vespas 1964 GS160, 1965 SS180, 1977 V9A1T, 1983 PX150E
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Location: Siam
 
Ossessionato
Vespas 1964 GS160, 1965 SS180, 1977 V9A1T, 1983 PX150E
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Location: Siam
UTC quote
SoCalGuy wrote:
Some pics.
The rims and drums look good, but those bolts look really weird. I don't get it.
@socalguy avatar
UTC

bodgemaster
63 GL, 76 Super (x2), 74 Primavera (x2), 79 P200, 06 Fly 150
Joined: UTC
Posts: 7223
Location: So Cal
 
bodgemaster
@socalguy avatar
63 GL, 76 Super (x2), 74 Primavera (x2), 79 P200, 06 Fly 150
Joined: UTC
Posts: 7223
Location: So Cal
UTC quote
SFvsr wrote:
Those powder coated rims look really nice.
Thanks SFvsr.
nomadinsiam wrote:
The rims and drums look good, but those bolts look really weird. I don't get it.
Weird? How so?
@sfvsr avatar
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Ossessionato
a lambretta or two
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Ossessionato
@sfvsr avatar
a lambretta or two
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Location: San Francisco
UTC quote
SoCalGuy wrote:
nomadinsiam wrote:
The rims and drums look good, but those bolts look really weird. I don't get it.
Weird? How so?
That hub/rim pairing uses bolts that pass through the rim into the drum. Nomad is making an observation that he notices the difference between the looks of studs on 10" wheels and the bolts on those types of 8' wheels.
UTC

Veni, Vidi, Posti
Joined: UTC
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Location: Tega Cay, SC
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
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Location: Tega Cay, SC
UTC quote
The guy I bought my Super from ran extra long bolts thru the drum and out the other side. Then put nylock nuts. He must have lost a wheel at one time.
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Hooked
vbb survivor
Joined: UTC
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Location: Lafayette, IN
 
Hooked
@indiana_vbb avatar
vbb survivor
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Location: Lafayette, IN
UTC quote
just have fun
If you think you will enjoy it do it youself. Some of the rattle can spray apint goes on and last a long time. I did some work on a John Deere garden tractor and the high quality canned paint at the dealer looked good for a decade. I was very pleased. Comes down to what you are after and the journey.
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