Modern Vespa

Im installing the clutch on the smallie.

I have the flanged nut from SIP that came with a star type washer. (see pic).

DO i need to use the tabbed locking washer (at left in pic) OR just the star washer or neither and just use thread lock?
with either washer, the nut wont thread on all the way. i tried it with just the tabbed washer and its all but 1.5 threads on the shaft.
please help, im at a standstill and ive searched the forums with no luck...

thanks

..just the tab washer. Check your clutch is on correctly and you have not bumped the wood ruff key out of place on installation so that the clutch sits too high.
also check the clutch is meshed with cog so it can sit all the way down in the basket giving you maximum thread.
Id then reluctantly and carefully use the nut to push the clutch down further.....but that should be able to be done by hand so Im worried something is lodged behind the clutch....or the shaft may need a clean up with grinding paste
good luck

thanks blue,
the key was in to the end of the slot before installation.
the basket cog and primary gear are flush. looks right

this is the neufren xl2 4 plate clutch. the clutch looks nice in the basket.

ive seen other pictures of the same clutch doing the same thing. all have used locktite.

I'm up to my elbows in smallie clutch at the moment. Mine has just the nut and tab washer. Have you got the tab properly in the groove?

Can I ask, what's the deal with the multiple spring clutch. I have just tried a Malossi single spring but it proved to be too tall and hard, so I'm considering different options......

Did you try it without the key? This is common, infact the BGM Superstrong doesn't even come with a key slot... your spider will probably fit further down, but you need to use some green loctite.

i took the clutch apart and seated it without the plates and key, it went down a little more so got the key farther down and re installed it.. i got another turn on the nut.
i used the tabbed washer and hit it with an impact and loctite.

the multiple spring clutches are supposed to be stronger for mild builds with a lighter clutch pull feel... thats what i got from research and from rob hodge.

if u use the xl2 clutch in the v50, you have to use the bearing pressure plate and u will likely have to clearance the plunger and cover. i did, it took like 3 minutes on the bench sander for the plunger and i used a file to remove a bit on the case...

Wait, do you really use the tab washer with the flange nut?

I can't see how it could ever be able to help. There's no way the tab could be bent around the flange to interface the flat of the nut so what's the point?

The little tab gets bent *down* into a keyway on the input shaft, IIRC. So, I guess it could help? But if it were me, I'd just use the other lock washer with that nut. Should be good enough and almost identical to the Cosa nut setup I run on my P's. Just torque it down to spec and you should be good.

*edit*

Wait, I think I remember now. The little tab does get bent up into a keyway. There's a keyway in the threads. So you should still be able to thread on any nut - doesn't matter if it's flanged or not. Still doesn't change my opinion of ditching that for the other lock washer though.

The tab sits in a slot on the shaft clutch, the outer edge of the washer gets bent up against the flat of the nut to secure it.

With a flanged nut there is no way to bend up the washer, so why even bother with the washer?

I'll be using the flanged nut on my next rebuild and I can't see any reason to use any washer at all, just loctite.

makes sense to me too. cant bend tab up. but the tabbed washer cant spin as it has a tab so it would make sense to me that it could help it stay put because the nut is tightened against it and should not b able to spin off as easily...
or am i wrong inn this train of thought?

this is the nut and Wavy washer I told you about.. it's what I use and it's all good!

No Key, Loctite 620


If you got the DRT Runner tree it should have come with it..


http://www.sip-scootershop.com/en/products/nut+m11mm+input+shaft+drt+_40440090

I don't understand how the wavy washer works. Does it keep pressure on the nut or something? I didn't get the drt tree...

Yes the wavy washer puts pressure against the nut..

Flanged nut + tabbed washer makes absolutely no sense whatsoever so don't do it.
I have a flanged nut & nord lock washer on my large frame engine clutch.

so im better off using the serrated lock washer?
it is what came with the flanged nut...

On mine I plan to use the flange nut and loctite only. No wave, star or any washer.

On suggestion of what has worked, I'm gonna get the wavy washer n roll with it.
I just hate the wait. I can't find any thing like it around here...

Note that the wave washer that was linked is an M11.

The DRT shaft has a larger thread than stock (M11x1.0 vs M10x1.5). If you want to go with a wave washer I would think you would need an M10.