Modern Vespa

I've had a basic look but Piaggio certainly don't believe in making things easy
Would it be best to remove some panels??
What sort of tools will I need e.g. are C shaped spanners(wrenches ) easier than S shaped ones??
The reason I ask is that I'll have to buy a small set.

Comes off easy on MP3/250.
I use a "Wobble Adapter", and comes off easy.
http://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-640849-2-Inch-Extension-3-Piece/dp/B004QO9BTM/ref=sr_1_33?ie=UTF8&qid=1397658766&sr=8-33&keywords=socket+wobble

Keith

OK so using these you can come up through the frame underneath and see through the side access panels?
I'll have a look over here to see what I can find but I know they are available.
I presume they work in a similar way to the "ball" ended allen keys??
What size extension would you recommend eg 1/4" or 3/8 " drive??

ps couldn't get your link to work.

https://www.wilcodirect.co.uk/product/extension-bars/wobble-bar-set-1-4-d-3pc

^^^^
Those look ideal. 1/4" drive are the ones you want - and ensure the socket you use is a six-point (though those small sizes usually are).

OK thanks. That link is a national chain of auto stores over here and there is one 4 miles from me so I'll go and get a set.
They won't go amiss as they'll probably come in useful for other jobs

Sorry, about the link...
But you got the idea, the "Wobble" provides you the ability to get it from underneath with no problems. Sometime all it takes is the correct tool.

Keith,
Marietta, GA

I'm afraid I'm not having much luck as the exhaust nuts are refusing to budge despite soaking with WD40 over 2 days.
The last thing I want to do is put too much leverage on them and snap them off so due to the restricted room I might be looking at dropping the engine
Can anyone tell me the easiest way to do this??
The workshop manual is not the best at describing it and I was just wondering if I could pull it back enough to get at the nuts with a grinder without disconnecting everything??

Well I took the engine out which wasn't easy as you're supposed to remove the downpipe as well but I couldn't do that because of the seized nuts but I managed to persuade it through a gap left by the r/h engine mount.
3 hrs to take it out and 30mins to remove the nuts.
Put the engine back in today.

I've had a nightmare trying to remove the exhaust manifold, too.
Been buying all sorts of spanners and wrenches to get in at those nuts. Hellish. I'm glad I bought a lift table so I could see what I was doing.

I sprayed the nuts with wd40 deep penetrant for a couple of days. It didn't seem to work as the slugs moved out of the head rather than the nuts off the slugs.

What I realised ... too late for it to save me the agro ... is that the exhaust manifold doesn't need to come off to remove the flywheel cover (which was why I was doing it). Just a bit of loosening off, probably just on one side, would have been enough to turn the exhaust out of the way. I thought the diamond shaped late and the pipe wear one piece, but found the plate is separate, leaving the pipe free to rotate when the pressure is off.

WD40 is not really a good penetrating oil. Products like Liquid Wrench and LPS are far superior for loosening rusty and seized fasteners.

For removing the exhaust header, I've had good luck with a flex-head ratcheting box wrench ("gear wrench").

Can't imagine having to remove the entire engine to get at the header bolts - wow.

....

Yeah. The normal WD40 is next to useless for this, but they make a spray called Rust Release Penetrant Spray.
It was easy to get hold of in the UK. Some of the other sprays, not so easy.
I had hoped it would do the trick, but no good.
Will try to get hold of some of the other products for the future.

I think pretty much every bolt and nut on my bike is seized

Have been replacing damaged nuts bolts and screws as I got and using some copper grease in the hope I won't have to again.

I didn't want to risk snapping the studs so as Piaggio don't give you any room to get anything in there to grind or cut them off taking the engine out is the only way.
It's not that difficult a job and I could imagine anyone who is set up to remove them would have one out in an hour or so.
Once it was out I just took a hacksaw to the flange nuts and once I had cut part of the flange off a sharp chisel just loosened them .
Bit of a clean up of the threads and back it went
Unfortunately this is a result of a damp climate in the UK,road salt and left standing for a couple of years