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I finally fed up with this battery and these blinkers on my 74 Sprint 150V. Following the You Tube video from Scooter West. Mines alittle different . How many of you fellow MV ers have done this mod?
Battery gone add 6v regulators in place of the rectifier.
Battery gone add 6v regulators in place of the rectifier.
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I eliminated the battery, but I went 12 volt. I used a moped reg the first time and it was either defective or I fried it. Now I am running a Trail Tech 12v reg that is adjustable and it works great. I guess the nice thing about running the Scooter West way is that you can stay 6v and use all the bulbs that are already there, maybe even run the turn signals as well. I had to give up the horn as well as the signals but I don't use either anyway.
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UTC quote
moewave wrote:
I finally fed up with this battery and these blinkers on my 74 Sprint 150V. Following the You Tube video from Scooter West. Mines alittle different . How many of you fellow MV ers have done this mod?
Wow, that's quite a gobbeldy-gook of wires. Two regulators? I feed the entire loom from one wire.
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^^^^^ This is the guy who helped me through the whole process. Which worked out great considering that when it comes to electrics, I'm dumb as a box of rocks. Thanks again SFvsr.
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Good news it works perfect. Fired up fist kick lights are brighter than ever and the front blinkers come on bright but don't blink. They never even worked before. I can't believe I didn't do tis 6 years ago when I bought this thing. The horn is not working and never did but looks like I can get one that will.
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Oh the before and now after
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
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can't see in pics...
grounding the reg to the frame is key
and the engine to the frame too

if this got done great if not you might want to do this asap

looks as if you grounded the regs to each other and to the center screw of each regs and then onto the harness or maybe the stator ground wire...??

adding on more black ground to the frame is easy
an engine that is only grounded by the gear cables / clutch cable =
⚠️ Last edited by spiderwebb on UTC; edited 1 time
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UTC quote
and

- do put a grommet (or electrical tape) around those wires where they go threw the frame so they stay nice and un frayed.

- I think there is a lower voltage blinker relay you can fit that makes the blinkers work right = blink
the relay you have is either faulty or is is not getting enough power to allow it to operate like it should

this happens on battery bikes that have dead batteries:
1st the horn stops working
then the blinker turn on but don't blink
then the tail light goes out
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The ground that you are speaking of goes from where to where?
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moewave wrote:
The ground that you are speaking of goes from where to where?
??
the after market regs I have seen are 2 wire types
a yellow and a black

- those regs need to be grounded to the frame
- the stator is grounded via harness and its back plate at times
- a CDI if there is one has to be grounded to the engine (I also ground it to the frame)

the screw that holds the reg to the frame can be a grounding location but I like using a bolt in a different area that is sanded free of paint and perfect

if it is all working then don't worry
good job
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Thanks for the heads up it works but you are right I need to clean things up and add another ground to each regulator I see that now on the video. Thanks for your help . I will post another picture after I finish.
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Ive done this many times, I dont know about the mod from Scooter West though. I just drop the battery and install a 12v regulator and change the wiring around. You need a continuity meter for this job. I use a BGM regulator, run a hot and a ground from the stator to the regulator and then use existing wires to power up what I need.

It's pretty simple really, you need to to supply power to to the switch which in turn runs out to the headlight, tail light, etc. This is where the continuity meter helps, it allows you to find what wires go where.

Hot wire to the headlight, pilot, tail, and brake light switch. If you are going to run turn signals you can power the relay directly off the regulator, and you will need a wire to run up to the switch.

I suppose it doesn't sound easy but I just write is all out on a piece of paper mark what wires are what, cut and discard what I dont need. The only catch is the stator, it's easier if you have a 5 wire. If your good with a soldering iron you can make this conversion yourself.
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Your flasher unit may be toast, may be why the signals are not working. Your horn is 6v dc and never will work very well unless switched over. Also, as Spiderwebb mentioned, a good ground can't be over emphasized. I grounded my first reg the way you have yours set up with a bolt through the reg and it fried, or a least never became part of the circuit and blew all my bulbs.
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Should I just ground each regulator to the frame instead o f the through bolt of the regulator using just a few inches of wire.? Scrape the paint add some deox and call it good.
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J.P this bike is a 6 volt and you say you can use one 12 volt regulator instead? How's that work?
Do you have any pictures? One 12 volt regulator has to be cheaper than two 6 volt ones.. It's too late for me but others might benefit from this info.
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Do you have a circuit diagram for your method? Probably could figure it out from your pics, but maybe not...

Here's more info on how to do this the way Tierney's bike was done if you're interested:
https://modernvespa.com/forum/post1753966#1753966

I'll be doing this on my Rally when I get the regulator.
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I am probably wrong but I don't think there is any advantage to running 12v over 6v in this application. Plenty of vespas running around on 6v and doing fine. I just went 12v because it cheaper and less complicated.
⬆️    About 4 months elapsed    ⬇️
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Does anyone have a step by step go by to change from battery to non battery?
P200E

Thanks
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I'm a Luddite. Sticking with Femsa 6v, especially now that I have LED signals.

[URL=http://s1158.photobucket.com/user/chandlerlewis/media/L1060194_zps818742f8.jpg.html]External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text[/URL]

I know, I know, I'll come crying when it's toast. But for now, keeping the battery. It's on a tender when I'm not riding it, and so far I haven't outrun the juice.
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Tierney wrote:
^^^^^ This is the guy who helped me through the whole process. Which worked out great considering that when it comes to electrics, I'm dumb as a box of rocks. Thanks again SFvsr.
he helped me a bunch too
very greatful
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I have the stock rectifier/regulator and I switched to this battery and haven't had a problem. I don't even keep it on the trickle charger. I'm running an LED tail/stop light and turn signals. I tried to make my own LED flasher out of a 555 timer chip. It works great if the scoot is not running but with the scoot running the flashing is not consistent. I suspect the input voltage is varying too much. I might just have to buy a real LED flasher.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DGZL5H8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Meh, once you get the wiring right a 6v battery system works well enough. Headlight isn't going to blind anybody, but flashers flash, speedo lights up ... has a certain old charm to it.
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UTC quote
I bought those same parts to go batteryless but am still sticking with the battery and stock set-up until it fails me. I'm with Socal guy, the charm is the key.

System still works great on my bike.
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Dwight Schmidt wrote:
System still works great on my bike.
It's a similar system to the type fitted to the Serveta 6v DC models, and that, when working is very good.
Trouble is, when it goes wrong, very few dealers know how it works. So it's easier to rip it out, than diagnose and fix the problem.
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Tract Punk wrote:
I'm a Luddite. Sticking with Femsa 6v, especially now that I have LED signals.

I know, I know, I'll come crying when it's toast. But for now, keeping the battery. It's on a tender when I'm not riding it, and so far I haven't outrun the juice.
Hey, you got those in. Great!
Acquire an extra regulator/rectifier for when you think the battery's toast. Mine (original) is a Motoplat. May save you from quitting the 6V battery crowd. We need all the friends we can get.
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Liquids wrote:
Mine (original) is a Motoplat.
Are you sure that is the original, as that is the Spanish Serveta one?
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firekdp wrote:
Liquids wrote:
Mine (original) is a Motoplat.
Are you sure that is the original, as that is the Spanish Serveta one?
It's the only one I've seen (in my somewhat limited experience, watching '74 Rally posts on this forum for only four years) that has five terminals (not counting the double on the fifth) and matching wire colors to the '73 and '74 Rally wiring diagrams (and not the incorrect "pre-1977" diagram).
Lambretta prod'n went to Serveta in what, 1971? From what I've read, those early Servetas were/are considered equivalent to the last Italian ones. I've also heard that Lambretta regulators were considered more robust. It's not unreasonable to think that Piaggio went with something off the shelf and proven before they were satisfied with their own component in '75 and beyond.
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UTC quote
Liquids wrote:
Hey, you got those in. Great!
Acquire an extra regulator/rectifier for when you think the battery's toast. Mine (original) is a Motoplat. May save you from quitting the 6V battery crowd. We need all the friends we can get.
Yeah -- much thanks for the heads-up. I'm always keeping my eyes open for spare electrics, but so far the Femsa gods have been kind.
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Tract Punk wrote:
Liquids wrote:
Hey, you got those in. Great!
Acquire an extra regulator/rectifier for when you think the battery's toast. Mine (original) is a Motoplat. May save you from quitting the 6V battery crowd. We need all the friends we can get.
Yeah -- much thanks for the heads-up. I'm always keeping my eyes open for spare electrics, but so far the Femsa gods have been kind.
They laughed at me and kicked me out. The Ducati gods adopted me into their gang. Ran a good 90 miles this past weekend on it.
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Liquids wrote:
It's the only one I've seen (in my somewhat limited experience, watching '74 Rally posts on this forum for only four years) that has five terminals (not counting the double on the fifth) and matching wire colors to the '73 and '74 Rally wiring diagrams (and not the incorrect "pre-1977" diagram).
This is the original DC Rally one
http://www.scooterrescue.com/uploads/4/7/4/4/4744037/7872794.jpg?322
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1974 Rally 200
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UTC quote
firekdp wrote:
Liquids wrote:
It's the only one I've seen (in my somewhat limited experience, watching '74 Rally posts on this forum for only four years) that has five terminals (not counting the double on the fifth) and matching wire colors to the '73 and '74 Rally wiring diagrams (and not the incorrect "pre-1977" diagram).
This is the original DC Rally one
http://www.scooterrescue.com/uploads/4/7/4/4/4744037/7872794.jpg?322
Yeah, that's almost the same one I've got, which I'm pretty sure is OG. Notice the different color housing, though. Mine's black plastic.
[URL=http://s1158.photobucket.com/user/chandlerlewis/media/L1060214_zps752d4681.jpg.html]External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text[/URL]
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