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UTC quote
I thought I was becoming more mechanically inclined, but perhaps not.

I've got everything I need to do the first oil change on the LX150, or so I think. I read all of the technical info on doing this, but I have one major problem.

There isn't enough room between the exhaust and the oil drain plug to fit my socket and wrench (or seemingly enough to fit any wrench)! I'm about 1/4 inch shy of being able to fit in in there to loosen/tighten. Any ideas? I've heard that maybe taking the exhaust off would work, but at every oil change? Surely there's another option.....

If not - does anyone have some experience taking off the exhaust on a LX150? I can't seem to find anything in the tech library about this.

Cheers
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UTC quote
In same boat...
I found the same situation and (hopefully, I'm doing mine tomorrow) solved it by picking up a 24mm box end wrench (spanner). Sears for about $16.
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2002 ET4 & 1980 100 Sport
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UTC quote
If you can't find a spanner that fits, you're looking at dropping the exhaust. One last ditch effort you can try is loosening the two bolts that attach the pipe to the header and gently push the pipe out of the way. You'll have to loosen the two bolts on the bracket as well.
This is an excellent reason why the PM pipe is so great. Since it's sectional, all I have to do is remove the can and leave the header pipe alone. That said though, I've done plenty of oil changes on my friends bikes by loosening the nuts.
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UTC quote
UPDATE: Just got back from Advance Auto and they had a belt tensioner tool that is quite thin, and allows me to put my 24mm socket onto it and get behind the exhaust. I'll post more tonight when (if?) it all works out.

Nice part is, you can "rent" the tool from Advance Auto. You basically buy it, and return it within 45 days - no charge.

I'll want something of my own eventually, but at least this gets me over the hump for today.
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UTC quote
spock wrote:
If you can't find a spanner that fits, you're looking at dropping the exhaust. One last ditch effort you can try is loosening the two bolts that attach the pipe to the header and gently push the pipe out of the way. You'll have to loosen the two bolts on the bracket as well.
I started to consider removing the exhaust. I removed the two hex bolts that attach the mechanism down by the rear tire, and from there it appeared that the only things remaining that connected the exhaust to the scoot were two nuts up by the pet carrier, where the exhaust attaches to the engine. I couldn't sort out how to get a wrench in there to loosen these. Any thoughts?
⚠️ Last edited by HuntKop on UTC; edited 1 time
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UTC quote
Can you post some pics? I'm about to attempt this in a month or two.

Thanks!
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Sure. I'll take some pics as I do it. Might take a day or two to get 'em posted though.
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UTC quote
You access the two nuts at the header through the door under your seat hook.
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UTC quote
Nice. You would think someone would have done that already for the tech section.
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UTC quote
I remove the exhaust when I change the oil. Just like anything else, it gets easier with practice.

But proper tools help, not that you need any special tools for this job. But whatever you buy (I got a universal-joint type adapter and extenders to take off the small exhaust bolt at the engine) is worth it, considering the savings of doing it yourself. And you only have to buy the special tools once, but you'll use them over and over again.

To remove the exhaust, remove the two small nuts where it goes into the engine (10mm, I think) and the two big bolts holding it up on the sides. The hex wrench in your tool kit will take care of these. One they are off, you will find how to "rock" the exhaust out by experience. Same as before...hard at first, but then you get the hang of it.

When I did my first oil change, I followed instructions posted on this forum.
Quote:
ET4 Oil Change

The twelve-step process:
1. Remove the exhaust pipe (2 nuts on the flange, 2 bolts on the rear)

2. Remove the oil drain plug and drain the oil.

3. Remove the oil filter and replace. (Run a bead of oil on the new rubber gasket so it will seal properly).

4. Reinstall oil drain plug.

5. Add a liter of oil though the dipstick. (I like Mobil 1 0-40w)

6. Remove the gear oil plug. (I fold a piece of cardboard to direct the oil to my oil collection pan)

7. Replace the gear oil plug.

8. Add 5cc of gear oil though the little plastic plug at the top of the rear hub. (I like Mobil 1 Gear Oil)

9. Reinstall exhaust.

10. Check all levels.

11. Note: This is a good time to install a better sparkplug. (I like Denso IU27 Iridium)

12. Go for a ride.
With apologies to whomever first posted it for plagiarism.
I copied to my computer long ago and I am posting a copy of that copy.
It's probably still here on the forum someplace with other useful information.
OP
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UTC quote
spock wrote:
You access the two nuts at the header through the door under your seat hook.
What kind of wrench did you use for this?
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UTC quote
Hey, HuntKop... is it possible to just use a 6-inch extension for your socket wrench to reach the oil drain plug? It worked on my GT.
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Molto Verboso
(GT200L) ... no more scoot :o(
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UTC quote
The video in this thread may be of some help.

Granted it is for changing out the tire, but removing the muffler is part of that.

LX150: Video tutorial on changing the rear tire
⚠️ Last edited by salty dodd on UTC; edited 1 time
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UTC quote
HuntKop wrote:
spock wrote:
You access the two nuts at the header through the door under your seat hook.
What kind of wrench did you use for this?
Like Menhir said, 10mm
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UTC quote
I'm finished. No leaks (as of yet). Changed both the Motor oil and hub oil.

I'll post pics later this weekend. Thanks everyone!
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UTC quote
I knew you had it in you.
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UTC quote
okay, here's my method of attack:
External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

15/16" stubby craftsman, medium sized channel locks and the ball pien hammer.

the stubby wrench fits perfectly on the plug and clears the muffler nicely:
External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

then you can smack it with the hammer to get the plug loose.
the channel locks remove the filter easily and you can get the prefilter out of the hole from behind the plug as well to help get the rest of the oil out of the sump.

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text
as you can see in the photo i like to jack the rear tire up on two blocks so that i have room to work. i also find that the oil drains out a little easier this way as well. naturally, you'll need to chock the front wheel up before doing such. if you don't have a lift, tying your bike down in the back of a pickup works just as well.

make sure to wipe the filter mounting clean and lube the o-ring seal before installing the new filter. also check the o-ring on the sump plug before putting that back together. clean the pre-filter with brake cleaner just blow it out with compressed air. if you have more than 10K on your bike it'd be a good idea to go ahead and replace the pre-filter. it's cheap insurance.

best,
-greasy
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UTC quote
Thanks Greasy. Doesn't get more clear that the pics you posted.
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UTC quote
Yes thanks as well. Bookmarked!
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UTC quote
A few hours too late
Damn, greasy got in first. Anyway, took a few pics of my own while doing mine.

See below:
Tools of the trade
Tools of the trade
Remove dipstick to allow easier draining
Remove dipstick to allow easier draining
Oil filter and drain plug
Oil filter and drain plug
Baggie shield in place.  Found this idea somewhere here on MV.  Worked ok.
Baggie shield in place. Found this idea somewhere here on MV. Worked ok.
24mm spanner in place
24mm spanner in place
"Controlled Oil Drain".  Kept it all in the pan.
"Controlled Oil Drain". Kept it all in the pan.
Close-up of drain plug.  Note the rubber seal.  Make sure this isn't broken!
Close-up of drain plug. Note the rubber seal. Make sure this isn't broken!
Oil screen.
Oil screen.
Screen close-up.  I was surprised by how clean it was.  I still carefully cleaned it out with compressed air.
Screen close-up. I was surprised by how clean it was. I still carefully cleaned it out with compressed air.
Drain plug hole with screen removed.
Drain plug hole with screen removed.
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UTC quote
Continued
Continued...

Please feel free to edit and post in Tech Forum if appropriate.

Oh, and this is for a 2006 LX 150.

Enjoy!
Used some gentle force from my channelocks.
Used some gentle force from my channelocks.
After the filter is removed.
After the filter is removed.
Closeup of old filter.
Closeup of old filter.
Remember to use some oil around the seal of the new filter.  Just use your finger.
Remember to use some oil around the seal of the new filter. Just use your finger.
New filter installed.
New filter installed.
Refill with oil of your choice.  Mine took a full quart and a splash from a 2nd quart to get it up to the upper mark o the dipstick.  Drove it around the block, double-checked for leaks and Bob's your uncle.
Refill with oil of your choice. Mine took a full quart and a splash from a 2nd quart to get it up to the upper mark o the dipstick. Drove it around the block, double-checked for leaks and Bob's your uncle.
OP
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UTC quote
Great pictures! I won't post mine because they look just like scootrati's.
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Re: A few hours too late
scootrati wrote:
Damn, greasy got in first. Anyway, took a few pics of my own while doing mine.
good job on the pix and the text/instructions.
we'll format it and add it to the tech lib. if that's okay with you.

also, the things that i always forget to mention:

get the o-ring for the sump plug BEFORE you start work. if yours winds up trashed you don't have to stop work and run all over town or go beg one off of the dealer.

second: DO NOT STRIP THE PLUG/CASE THREADS. just don't, please. there's only like two people in the US that have that tap set, and you don't want to have to call them... oh, and it's a terrible job, too.

best,
-greasy
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LX150
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UTC quote
It'd be an honor to make it into the tech section.

*sniff*, I'd like to thank my wife, my 2 pugs and above all the scooter gods for making this posible. Thank you!
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UTC quote
Good tip on the o-ring, Greasy- do you happen to know the size of this one, or is there a bunch of o-ring sizes that we scooter owners would be wise to stock up on?

I plan on tackling my ET4 oil change tomorrow. This write-up inspired me!
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UTC quote
i don't have the size right off hand, but it's probably something fairly common.

hit up your dealer or your favorite tech. a sixer of something cold and imported would be a square trade for a few o-rings and some sound advice.

best,
-greasy
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UTC quote
Does the oil filter come off fairly easy? Is there a technique for a stubborn filter?
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UTC quote
the filter is usually a bit stubborn.
you'll find many different methods of removal by using the search feature but i'll tell you the easiest one is just to use the appropraitely sized channel locks, imho...

best,
-greasy
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UTC quote
Agreed on the channelocks. After removal double-check the bottom of the filter to make sure the seal is intact. Read somewhere a warning to check that in case the seal baked itself to the filter housing and the use of additional "encouragement" seperates the seal from the filter.

Nothing major, it takes longer to type this then to check....
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UTC quote
scootrati:

Was this your first oil change on the bike? I have 300 miles on mine, I am waiting to get to the 600 mile check-up. But I think I will have the mechanic go throught the bike for that first service. after that maybe I will be more inclined to do my own oil changes.

Are Vespas like car oil changes, every 3000 miles?
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UTC quote
greasy125 wrote:
hit up your dealer or your favorite tech. a sixer of something cold and imported would be a square trade for a few o-rings and some sound advice.
How about a virtual sixer for my favorite tech: 888 . And don't worry: I changed my keyboard layout before typing it, so those are imported German acht's, not American 8's.
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UTC quote
jjschwi:

Yes, my 1st one at the 600 mile service interval.

I don't have the manual handy so I can't answer the amount of miles in an interval. Sorry!
UTC

Molto Verboso
Black 2007 LX 150, Crhome Kit, Flyscreen...more to come...
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Black 2007 LX 150, Crhome Kit, Flyscreen...more to come...
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UTC quote
I'm gonna put a call into the dealership later today but just curious, what kind of Oil are you guys using?

I know the Owners Manual recommends the specific brand but I have a feeling here in the states dealerships/owners are using something different.

I need to check my oil level soon and just want to have something on hand in case I need a top off.
⬆️    About 3 months elapsed    ⬇️
@ontiv99 avatar
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UTC quote
Does all this apply for a 2002 ET4 also? I heard they are mechanically much the same as the LX150...
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UTC quote
i assume it is so, but want to double check

clockwise = tighten?
counter clockwise = loosen?
above applies to both drain plug and filter?

i will double check manual but i do not recall seeing anything about
an oil filter on my fly50..just the drain plug and screen filter.

i will have my first service done by vespa dealer and at the recommended
intervals for warranty purposes...but i also want to do an oil change at the half way point. So for example..if it says next service is at 6000km ..i want to change oil myself at 3000km..then at 6000km again only this time by dealer.
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UTC quote
I have a FLY 150 and just changed the oil.
Yes, the normal rules apply re: clockwise for tightening, for both filter and drain plug.

I was able to do my oil change without removing the exhaust. I used channel locks for the filter and a 24mm socket that I gripped with vice grips to turn, because I couldn't fit a ratchet handle in there. I had to remove the filter first for this to work. After I removed the filter with the channel locks -- and allowed a bit of oil to drain out where the filter was -- it was pretty easy to loosen the drain plug with the combination of socket and vice grips.

It does make a bit of a mess to do the oil change with the center stand down. I used an oil pan to catch most of it, but I also had to put a few layers of aluminum foil under the right prong of the center stand, because some oil does run down along the stand. I had to tilt the bike on its stand just slightly to get the foil under there, and then repeat to remove the foil with the oil in it. Shape the aluminum foil to catch that oil, then pour it into your pan when you're done.

Not the cleanest job w/ the center stand down. Next time I will chock the wheel and tie a rope from my handle grip to my window bars (outside my apartment) so I can stand the bike up without the center stand... or enlist the help of an assistant to hold the bike up.
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UTC quote
Re: A few hours too late
scootrati wrote:
Damn, greasy got in first. Anyway, took a few pics of my own while doing mine.

See below:
i dont mean to be up on a high horse or come into this convo super late...

but as i was reading i happen to see the pic here with MOBIL 1....

no bueno...

mobil 1 is super bad news for any moder vespa... it to thin and when it heats up it gets even thinner...

its great way to get an extra 5mph on the topend... but also a great way to reck your bearings...

oil is the number one thing that keep your motor running cool... dont use mobil 1...
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UTC quote
i tried greasy's method this past weekend and it worked perfectly.
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UTC quote
my dealer suggested you use castrol superbike.

also, i couldn't get filter off with channel locks without elevating the bike a little - not enough space. i improvised with some bricks my landlord left in the driveway.
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UTC quote
*bump*

Did scootrati's method yesterday, mission accomplished.

Just for the heck of it I removed the air filter for cleaning and it was filthy and DRY. That was kind of a surprise since this scoot has only 2000 miles on it. I cleaned an re-oiled it and the bike started better than it has before. Almost no throttle needed while cranking.

Check your air filters!
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