Modern Vespa

Putting on the vespatronic flywheel this weekend. Doing some reading and see people discussing "timing" this variable electronic ignition. I was measuring the play in the stator that comes with my kit and the maximum difference one can adjust is not more than 9-10 degrees from one extreme to the other. The stator only goes on in one position.

The literature states that the ignition will adjust the timing within 8 degrees. So I assume if you put the stator plate in and center the holes, there is no need for further adjustments, or do I need to get out the timing wheel, light, and piston stop.

Second question:

My flywheel woodruff key is a little dinged up, but holding fine. Normally I would simply replace it, even for a little ding, however, is this worth chipping it out and then putting a new one in, if there is no slippage that I can note when the flywheel goes on?

Most manuals say to always replace, but I am not wanting to create more work unnecessarily as it is in there very tightly.

No you don't just put it on anywhere... the purpose of the VT is to be able to have tour timing more advanced at lower revs, giving you some Kick, then It will retard at higher revs so you don't blow up!

An example.. static timing on a Malossi 210 kit is 18.. setting up a VT for this I set the timing (yes with piston stop and degree wheel) to 25 at 2500 rpm.. (don't set it at a low idle like 1000 or 1200)

then it will be at 25 when I'm riding in lower revs and it'll retard down to 17 at really high revs.. nice and safe..

So depending on what top end you have set it accordingly...

You need to use the degree wheel and do it properly..and remember to set the initial starting point at 2500 rpm..

Good luck.. when set up right they're a pleasure to ride.. you'll see some nice additional power in your low to mid range!

never assume the timing is right
alway check to make sure it is correctly set up and that it is in fact working as it should = make multiple marks on the case and see if the timing moves

if you want 23 BTDC to be the advanced # then make a mark on the case @ 23 BTDC and another @ 18 BTDC. Then watch the flywheel mark move as you rev the engine while parked. If it is greater than 23 BTDC then you know that a stator adjustment is needed.

like Vader said

&

the woodruff key is only for alignment of flywheel onto the crank. It does nothing else.

ps - are you running a battery and where are you mounting the CDI...??

Thank you very much for the reply> I will take your advice to heart.

I will check the timing. The difference will necessarily be less than 5 degrees one way or another, but if that makes it better, then so be it.

It sounded like from your reply that you would not change the woodruff key for being a bit dinged up, as long as it was holding the alignment? Is that assumption correct?

With regard to the CDI, I was planning to simply attach it to where the old one sat on the side of the body, just above the engine. Do you have a better suggestion?

With regard to the battery no battery issue. I have a battery in my battery tray. I will likely use it for an accessory horn, and other such non-essential uses, but I hesitate to convert everything to DC for the essentials as I want to explore this whole "reliability" thing - see if it exists. Except for maybe a relay from the rectifier for re-charging the battery-that might be reasonable.

So, my plan is to run the headlight, tail light, horn off of the 12V AC. I have a new harness and switches for this. I do not have or want to have turn signals.

The instruction for the vespatronic state that the flywheel must be secured with its original washers and nut, but clearly they have not tried this on a Rally 200 as that is not possible.

It is interesting on my bike the CAM that was stuck on that flywheel-side crank (arm) not sure of proper name. I assumed that hammering it off would be a really bad idea, and had to drill/saw it off - which sort of seemed dramatic and scared me a bit to do. But the flywheel fits now, and we will move forward with the re-wire - although the instructions they gave me were for a PX so - should be interesting.

thank you for providing some support. I am sure it will improve the outcome.

craig tebeau
tacoma WA

I also wanted to run everything off A/c including the horn but i found it difficult sourcing a rally 200 a/c horn so i left in the original d/c horn (disconnected) and squeezed a pair of twin tone horns under the side panel that run off the battery.

I also added a 12v accessory adapter that runs off the battery.

Except the horn everything is a/c and ive not had one problem in over 10,000 miles.

Har har Mahadev

5 degs the "wrong" way can melt things fast

the vespatronic provides both regulated AC and DC

there is a ground wire in the harness that comes with it so in theory the CDI should be grounded all the way back to the engine via the stair plate but everyone I know adds another ground wire from the CDI to the engine to be safe.

CDI is also grounded to the frame where it is mounted

if the new stator plates are anodized and not raw then you should also sand or file the back of it (just in one spot where it makes contact with the case) to remove the anodized coating. This is key for a perfect ground.