Modern Vespa

Does anyone know of a decent wiring diagram??
The one in the workshop manual is pathetic and doesn't enlarge very well.
One in colour would be great
If all the dash lights go out does that mean I am getting a charge??
The reason I ask is that my charging system now appears to be working(measured at the regulator dc output) but I'm not 100% sure it's reaching the battery as my multimeter is one of the cheap Chinese type so I need to find out where the dc wires go to after they leave the regulator.
The scooter has been idle for a couple of years so it may just be a case of checking connectors etc. if indeed I am not getting a charge at the (new) battery.
It starts/runs all the warning lights are going out and the locking system is now working correctly but I think all the faultfinding on the locking system caused the meter to give up ih the first place.
I'll buy a new meter ASAP

Hi,

http://www.wotmeworry.org.uk/manuals/

all will be there

G.

About dash lights - no, it's mean nothing... When my 30A main fuse was burned I got to know only when battery was totally dead

Ok thanks I had some of these but not the wiring diagram.

OK I've now got a reliable meter.
The alternator/regulator are working well and showing about 13.6v running.
Only snag is this is measured at the brown connector(although I've modified mine)
The battery doesn't seem to be getting a charge.
Any ideas??
Everything is working eg starter/lights etc so I presume I've got a bad connection somewhere between the brown connector to the battery.
I've physically checked fuse 5 and it's ok.
I've not actually checked if power is going across it yet but I'll try that tomorrow
It's more a matter of knowing what path the charging circuit physically takes rather than relying on the wiring diagram??
Any help/advice appreciated.

Which brown connector? If the one with three big yellow wires, then there should be AC on those, 16V or more between each pair.

The regulator output goes through the hidden fuse on the starter relay, and then to the battery. Do check the fuse connectors are OK, not just the fuse - this might mean some dismantling.

Oops apologies I meant the DC output of course so I know at least that the charging system is working.
I was getting confused because I had fitted a different regulator/connectors.
I just wondered if anyone could give me an idea of the actual route as the dc wires disappear in to the loom.
I presume the fuse holder would be the next thing to check?
Where do they go after that??
I thought the 250 didn't have a hidden fuse??
I've no doubt I'll sort it but obviously it's a time consuming thing so any pointers in the right direction would help
thanks

what the reading on the battery when running?

Hidden fuse holder is coupled with the starter relay. Find that relay and you find the fuseholder. If you are measuring 13.6Vdc at the battery when running, then you are charging.

Around 12v at the battery running or otherwise so it's not getting a charge.
I'm getting 13.6v at the regulator output connector so that is working.
I presume it's getting interrupted somewhere between the alternator output and the battery.
It makes sense to actually check the fuse holder itself for continuity across the connections(even if I have good fuses) so I'll do that next.
As I said everything is working lights/starter/tilt lock no warning lights/beeps so it seems to be the charging circuit that has faulty continuity.
I'll take the r/h panels off tomorrow to see if I can trace where the charging wires run and check/clean everything I can.
From what I've read on the forum the 250 doesn't have a hidden fuse and the 30a fuse is in the fuse holder next to the battery and indeed mine has one there??

Yes, sorry, I didn't twig it was a 250.

http://www.wotmeworry.org.uk/manuals/Piaggio%20MP3/MP3%20250/MP3%20250%20Wiring%20Diagram.pdf

lower left corner of diagram. The 2 Red/Black wires join together and go to Fuse #1. It appears that the starter relay on a 250 is different than a 400/500. It does not hold the hidden fuse. You will have only 1 30amp fuse on the scoot in one of the 2 fuse panels. Please check for it.

Yeah it's number 1 fuse in the holder under the seat. I've already checked the fuse itself and that is ok so I can only assume bad connections to the fuse holder but I'll check that today for continuity.
It's getting at it that's the problem so I'll be taking the r/h upper side panel off which means the passenger grab handles and the seat as well.
If all else fails I could alway jury rig an extra positive lead from the regulator direct to the positive side of the battery via a fuse of course??

SORTED
Turns out it was a combination of the fuse holder and the fuse itself.
The holder was showing signs of green mildew but I decided to take a closer look at the fuse as it looked old and tired(like me )
Although it checked out with a bit of playing around I found out it could be made to fail so I ditched that and fitted a new one.
Cleaned up the fuse holder and voila!!
Probably didn't need to change the regulator but hey I've now got a new one which ,hopefully,will be reliable as the scooter has done 30000 mls.
I'll get out for a decent run this weekend as it's now all street legal.
It's a public holiday in the UK.
Don't suppose you have these sorts of damp problems in California

green mildew is actually corrosion. this is why folks use dielectric grease on electrical connectors.