OP
UTC

Member
1966 Sears BB
Joined: UTC
Posts: 10
Location: Killingworth Ct
 
Member
1966 Sears BB
Joined: UTC
Posts: 10
Location: Killingworth Ct
UTC quote
Recently rebuilt the motor and clutch fro my 66 blue badge. When I squeeze the clutch lever the clutch disengages. If the bike is in gear it will roll around and the kick lever slips without the engine running (clutch lever depressed).

If I start the bike and drop it in 1st the clutch is fully engaged and the bike lurches forward and stalls. What did I miss?
Ive adjusted the cable to the point where the kick start slips, thinking I wasn't getting enough throw, so I don't think its cable adjustment.
@scootermarc69 avatar
UTC

Ossessionato
Joined: UTC
Posts: 2101
Location: Santa Margarita,Ca.
 
Ossessionato
@scootermarc69 avatar
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Posts: 2101
Location: Santa Margarita,Ca.
UTC quote
Did you soak the corks in oil before assembling?
OP
UTC

Member
1966 Sears BB
Joined: UTC
Posts: 10
Location: Killingworth Ct
 
Member
1966 Sears BB
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Posts: 10
Location: Killingworth Ct
UTC quote
I coated them . Didn't soak them overnight.
OP
UTC

Member
1966 Sears BB
Joined: UTC
Posts: 10
Location: Killingworth Ct
 
Member
1966 Sears BB
Joined: UTC
Posts: 10
Location: Killingworth Ct
UTC quote
Took clutch out corks were covered in oil but soaked them for a couple days any way. Reinstalled does the same thing. It disengages without motor running but when I fire up the motor it won't disengage. It's like the centrifugal force causes the clutches not to disengage . Double checked the assembly really stumped here. Has anyone been through this problem? Need some help
OP
UTC

Member
1966 Sears BB
Joined: UTC
Posts: 10
Location: Killingworth Ct
 
Member
1966 Sears BB
Joined: UTC
Posts: 10
Location: Killingworth Ct
UTC quote
One thing I didn't elaborate on is that I picked up a new clutch cover assembly on eBay. The bike was a pretty ruff barn find an the actuation arm fir Thebes clutch was frozen. I didn't see any difference in the plunger or arm could the throw be different on the replacement cover. It's a large frame cover and clutch lever?
@sfdiego avatar
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Hooked
'60TV175 '59LI50 '66 Allstate Falc Smally '85 Malossi PK125s '85.5 RZ350
Joined: UTC
Posts: 126
Location: San Francisco
 
Hooked
@sfdiego avatar
'60TV175 '59LI50 '66 Allstate Falc Smally '85 Malossi PK125s '85.5 RZ350
Joined: UTC
Posts: 126
Location: San Francisco
UTC quote
When you reassembled the clutch into the case you might have pushed the woodruff key out of its slot into the spider.
@rod_r avatar
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Addicted
1990's 50s + DR 85
Joined: UTC
Posts: 558
Location: auckland, new zealand
 
Addicted
@rod_r avatar
1990's 50s + DR 85
Joined: UTC
Posts: 558
Location: auckland, new zealand
UTC quote
Just on the "soaking the corks" thing. My 50s had the corks replaced immediately before I bought it, and the guy mentioned he had only briefly soaked the corks. I proceeded to have slippage issues, ( somewhat attributed to a big bore kit with stock gearing ).

After a month, it was not getting any better, but after I recently opened it up and soaked the corks for a few days, it seems to be slipping less, if at all.

I've read that under soaked corks will eventually get coated with oil during use, but I don't know......
OP
UTC

Member
1966 Sears BB
Joined: UTC
Posts: 10
Location: Killingworth Ct
 
Member
1966 Sears BB
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Posts: 10
Location: Killingworth Ct
UTC quote
When I got the bike half the motor came in a box. After hours and days of internet search I found it last night. Didn't show it in the engine diagram / parts book I had. There's a spacer washer behind the clutch. If its not in there the clutch arm assembly wont produce enough throw to disengage the clutch with the motor running. Its funny once you find a problem and know how to search for it you find a whole bunch of rookies like me that did the same thing and posted the same problem. Thanks for the responses.

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