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I have a SS180 which has very decent head light so I like to use it for my afternoon and evening rides. unfortunately it is eating tail light bulbs on every ride. It is a 6v and I know I am using the correct wattage for both the tail light and Brake light but it still keeps popping. I was told I should install a regulator like this one as seen in the pic attached. do you think that would work

and what keeps causing it to pop globes like it is.
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The pic is a rectifier not a regulator, so not much use.
If it is a non battery model, check your pilot and speedo lamps are all OK. The system needs all these to be working to balance the load to the stator output. If one fails or has a faulty connection, others will blow.
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Does the bike have a battery? I had the same problem, and it ended up being a bad ground at the battery.
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I had the same problem when I installed a lighter flywheel on a 6 volt AC ignition (non battery) = higher revs = more output from the stator.

I increased the wattage on the headlight and tail light bulbs but kept them at 6 volts and it was enough to prevent them from blowing.

As mentioned, check the grounds and the condition of your wiring loom and stator.
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This is a NON Battery AC model, I have currently got the following set up with regards to globes.

AS Per Scooterhelp.com

Headlight 25/25w
Pilot 3w
Tail Light 5W
Brake Light 10W
Speedo .06w (I dont have the bulb holder so NO bulb)

Should I maybe try a 35/35w headlight and maybe a 5w or 10w Pilot
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themod1 wrote:
Should I maybe try a 35/35w headlight and maybe a 5w or 10w Pilot
Changing the headlight will have no effect on the tail light as it is on a different circuit.

Also fitting a 6v regulator to the tail light circuit will cause a dim brake light (when lights are on).

If the 10w brake light is not blowing (when driven with lights off) then your power output is fine and the problem is down to poor connections or other lamps failed or of the wrong wattage.
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A friend used 12 and even 24 volt bulbs of the same wattage in his. Doesn't fix the cause but worked well enough that he didn't bother looking for the cause.
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When I most recently changed the bulbs on the scooter I was in the garage when I used brake the light was very bright (much brighter than my Rally 180) but as i increased the rev a little the bulbs popped.

I will try take some photos and a video this evening
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try a 6v 5w pilot and tail light combination. i don;t think that 3w is doing you any favors. i suspect it is blowing first (because it's in parallel with the tail light) and then the bike moves on to blowing the taillight.

of it still blows, up the brake light and pilot to 10w.

on that system, you want to you want to stay the same voltage (6v) but increase the wattage if yo hare blowing bulbs.
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Thanks Rob will try it this evening
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having the same problem on my GS 160. running light blows as soon as you put it in. brake lights and headlamps ok. not sure about speedo lamp.
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Shouldn't your pilot be a 5 or 10 watt? I had this same problem with a 6v small frame that wasn't rectified until the speedo bulb was working. I think it was scootermercato, but they didn't send a .6 watt. It was 3w I believe. Anyway, the tail and stop remained the same brightness, but the pilot dimmed a little and the speedo became bright and readable.

The bike still carries spare bulbs but a single one hasn't blown in at least 500 miles.
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It's likely the coil that supplies the power to your tail light. I've had the same issue with mine. Mine outputs 15VAC at idle and goes up from there with the revs. I also have no pilot bulb to help absorb the over-voltage. I've heard the same thing many times from GS160 and SS180 owners. Replace the coil with the yellow and blue wires.
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Killo wrote:
It's likely the coil that supplies the power to your tail light. I've had the same issue with mine. Mine outputs 15VAC at idle and goes up from there with the revs. I also have no pilot bulb to help absorb the over-voltage. I've heard the same thing many times from GS160 and SS180 owners. Replace the coil with the yellow and blue wires.
Can I test this with a simple multi meter, set too 24v AC and test across the live and earth points on the tail light.

If that is the case and the coil is producing a higer voltage would it not make sense to just use 12v bulbs then (me thinking aloud and hoping one of you are hearing me and have an answer.)
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Use 24v bulbs
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SubEtherBASS wrote:
Use 24v bulbs
24v even if the multimeter says it is producing round 12-14v
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I used to blow all others, managed 35v+ at full revs!
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Okay I think 1st things is to test then I will come back here with my findings and then decide on the size bulbs to use. Thanks

Am I correct I still need to try keep the Wattage the same just so that the Electrikery load balance is correct or will it not work like that any more
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I can recommend these:-
https://lambrettaspares.com/spares/bgm-parts/regulator__rectifier,-6-volt,-bgm/mbgm0263.html

I have an early BSA light scooter with direct 6v lighting and it really does hold the voltage at no more than 7 volts at all times. No more blown bulbs.
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Too many watts = melted lense
Been there done that
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I agree with SubEtherBASS on the bulb, however, you're treating the symptom with the bulb replacement. If you replace the coil that's creating the excessive voltage, you've cured the patient.
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On the vbb2 style nnon battery systems, baseline is 6v 5w tail, 6v 5w pilot, 6v 10w brake, and 6v 25w headlight.

If the pilot bulb is deleted, youj need to substitute a 10w 6v tail light bulb.

For blowing headlight bulbs, go up to a 6v 35w.

If you are blowing taillights, remove the pilot and go to a 15w brake and taillight bulb.

These systems are fiddly. The imeadance of the system functions to regulate the voltage. Without going to deep into it, everything from the gauge of the wire to how the harness is routed in the frame, to how corroded the contacts are affects what the stator output looks like. To a small extent, even the air temprature has some input into what the voltage of the system is!

Going to 12v or 24v bulbs will just make the prfoblem worse.
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rob hodge wrote:
On the vbb2 style nnon battery systems, baseline is 6v 5w tail, 6v 5w pilot, 6v 10w brake, and 6v 25w headlight.

If the pilot bulb is deleted, youj need to substitute a 10w 6v tail light bulb.

For blowing headlight bulbs, go up to a 6v 35w.

If you are blowing taillights, remove the pilot and go to a 15w brake and taillight bulb.

These systems are fiddly. The imeadance of the system functions to regulate the voltage. Without going to deep into it, everything from the gauge of the wire to how the harness is routed in the frame, to how corroded the contacts are affects what the stator output looks like. To a small extent, even the air temprature has some input into what the voltage of the system is!

Going to 12v or 24v bulbs will just make the prfoblem worse.
Thank You I will try the no Pilot and a 15w brake and tail light
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