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Vespa T5 classic
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Hi guys, just collected a t5 classic at the weekend but no keys, been and bought me a new set of barrels and keys, but how do you get the old ones out without causing damage to the bodywork? Please help as desperate to get her running
Cheers
Clive
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Congrats on the T5 classic!

The instructions are on a P-series but I'm sure most will translate over to the T5.

Jackson and Bitza are T5 owners and I'm sure they'll chime in to get you sorted.

Steering lock.

Ignition Switch

Good luck
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Weird 80's Vespas & Cool Vintage Lambrettas
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if any of them are locked, you'll have to drill them out. it's a real party.

unlocked, then it's as simple as removing some bits and knocking the new stuff in.

best,
-greasy
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Vespa T5 classic
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Tried drilling the glove box lock and totally butchered it, not a problem tho have now ordered a new unit, but wary of doing this on the combined ignition / steering lock, any specific help guys?
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Sorry I had not seen this earlier.

If the seat is unlocked remove it (lock) and mail it to me. The T5 classic has the Zadi lock, whereas all 3 locks are keyed the same. This will save you any headache.

The seat lock is the easiest to remove and fit keys to.

Proceed with caution if you are drilling the ignition/steering lock.

Cheers
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T5 Pole Position, T for thoroughbred
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Could you take the lock out of the seat and take it to a locksmith?
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On a Zadi ignition.

There a several methods to remove a Zadi ignition for replacement, this is the method I choose.

Remove the horn cover on the front of your T5 Classic. There is a small indent on the Piaggio hexagon (on the right), use a small flat blade screwdriver to remove it. Now remove the philips screw and lift slightly, disconnect the horn wires.

Remove the electrical connector on the back of the ignition, then the 2.5mm allen screw. Pull the cam "T" on the steering lock tab towards you, just enough to avoid drilling into the back of it.

Now to the lock. Take a 1/8'' drill bit and drill the dust cover (gate) this will move aside as the drill enters the lock. Drill two holes 23.85mm top and bottom (see photos), you should now be able to clear out the wafers and pull out the plug only.* If you take your time you won't have any issue with the lock housing.

If you need to replace the actual housing, then you can use a punch and drink a few beers.

Cheers

* A cheap dental pick works great once the wafers are drilled/destroyed.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
OP
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Vespa T5 classic
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Thanks Jim, will give it a go tomorrow, next time I will do the easy thing and send them to you lol, your a star
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jimh wrote:
Drill two holes 23.85mm top and bottom
Nice 'How To' apart from this part. That's not a Ø since you already said to use a 1/8'' drill bit. Are you suggesting people measure centre to centre with that level of accuracy? And then to drill with a handheld drill?
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TCC wrote:
jimh wrote:
Drill two holes 23.85mm top and bottom
Nice 'How To' apart from this part. That's not a Ø since you already said to use a 1/8'' drill bit. Are you suggesting people measure centre to centre with that level of accuracy? And then to drill with a handheld drill?
Not sure I follow mate. You drill 23.85mm depth...... at the two locations in the photos. If you drill further in, you run the risk of hitting the hardened cam. This would most likely snap the drill bit.

The above is how you drill a Zadi lock without making a mess.

No hand held drill either

Cheers
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jimh wrote:
You drill 23.85mm depth......
Aha! depth, now I get it.
⚠️ Last edited by TCC on UTC; edited 1 time
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By hand held drill I meant, well, hand held not hand powered.
⚠️ Last edited by TCC on UTC; edited 1 time
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You beauty, it works, just done mine. Came out clean as a whistle.
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1997 Italjet Formula 125, 2 matching N.Z. '69 VBC Super, 177cc Racer, VespaCross Bodge, Puch SRA150, Piaggio Zip 100! & others
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@subetherbass avatar
1997 Italjet Formula 125, 2 matching N.Z. '69 VBC Super, 177cc Racer, VespaCross Bodge, Puch SRA150, Piaggio Zip 100! & others
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I think on LML I removed horncast, and popped back (plastic that wires go into) off, an ripped out th guts
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Veni, Vidi, Posti
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wrong
that usually buggers the insert in the forks n the barrel moves in and out .... you can do the same with a panel puller n a screw n bugger it up
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