Modern Vespa

I may or may not want one... which end goes forward?!?

I think it looks cool.. nothing mind boggling.. just cool. it reminds me of that vespa the swedish guy put the motor up on the front wheel on.. I gotta find a pic

Th front end goes forward.

Pic for Vader is in SIP bible

ONE ACME AUTOPED!

Yes. It was an AcmePed.

...saw this for sale locally....only 8k

Th last one of them was from India

Had to remove the switching module (it switches the taillight and parking light from DC (battery) when the engine isn't running to AC when it is) to fit the new horncast. I wanted to see if I could wire it up so I could remove the battery, but it was no good. I tried removing the parking light (5W bulb) and went back to a 35/35W headlight from a 55/60W. If I wired the taillight into AC, the taillight and headlight would pulse when the blinker was on, worse if the stoplight was on too. If I wired the taillight into DC, the headlight wouldn't pulse as bad, but everything would blink alternately with the turn signal, and the turn signals were dim. The stator just doesn't produce enough power at idle to power everything and since I have a single wire stator putting more load on one circuit affects the other. Replaced the battery and left it wired into DC, now only the headlight runs off AC so I have plenty of power for the 55/60W bulb (my headlight housing is broken but usable, so no big loss if it melts). Thinking of maybe switching to a smaller lead acid or LiFePO battery to save weight and space (I removed my starter motor since I only kickstarted and it was heavy and in the way).

What's your thoughts on this folks?!!

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vespa-Faro-Basso-Low-Light-125-cc-1953-/281506598245?pt=UK_Motorcycles&hash=item418b19cd65

I made a screw jack for my scooter today. No real reason, just always wanted something smaller than the piece of 2x4 I was carrying, and figured if I was going to make a stand, might as well make a jack. I'll post a how to in tips and tricks. Maybe a little too much, since it's pretty easy to lift the rear of the bike and shove something under the engine, but it was fun to design it and make it. I don't have a welder, so I had to work around that.

1. Autoped = Vintage Segway Awesomeness
2. Floor Jack =Well done man!
3. Sold my PX 200 today. So I am officially on the prowl for something that rolls 8's. Find me if you know of any looking for a home. 8)

Anybody got an old, worn out P/PX rear shock they don't want and would be willing to give to me? I'll pay for shipping. I wanted to see if the eyelet on the top of the 4T rear shock fits onto a P/PX rear shock, so I can fit a performance rear shock.

I have a 74 V90 shock that I believe is the same as the shock for the P series. If anyone can verify that, I'll send it to you (after Christmas though.)

Here's a big pic provided by google.


Perhaps adding all the dimensions & thread info you would need will do it? I or anybody willing w/ a cleaner shock handy could do that.
Save you the shipping...

Can you put up a pic of your shock?

Best I can do is this, I don't have the shock out. I was going to remove my shock when I dropped the engine to install the 165 cylinder kit. Here's a picture of the 4T shock from SIP next to the current stock PX shock, both are made by Escorts. Dimensions look close, the bottom mounting is the same, PX has a variable rate spring, and the 4T has the eyelet top mounting.


Also, this picture of an Italian mechanic removing the rear body shell
What's the dimensions of the threads on the PX shock?

Well it looks like that eyelet thingy would just screw off. Assuming the thread is the same, it looks like it would work. Maybe email that guy Vader knows at SIP & ask him?

I am noticing a big difference in the two differnt springs used!!! Is your motor a lot heavier or something? Be careful - maybe you could use your old spring on the performance shock body if necessary? That part of the shock is easy to take apart.

First time I've seen the back of a 4T apart like that, I'd always assumed they just stuffed a 4T motor into a normal style frame modified to accept it.
But NO, they have a whole different subframe and a half a normal body to cover it up just like a Velocifero



The subframe, is it all another stamping or do I see a partial tube frame welded in there?

Just think kids, if Piaggio had wanted to evolve their old shifties for us they probably would have built something like this.
I do admire it, but WAY too many pieces to worry about for me.

I know the whole 4T weighs 20lbs more than the 2T, but that's divided between the new frame and engine.

Here's a thread on the other side of the forum where we were discussing the same thing: Biting for LML 4t 200. Yes, it's a tube frame in the rear. Far as I can tell the tube frame wasn't necessary per se, the 4T engine would have fit into the old monocoque body with some frame modification (a la Bajaj 4T, also some guy in Italy fit a 200cc 4T engine into a VBB or Sprint). My theory is they were already designing this frame for the future Auto, and it's much easier to make changes to a tube frame. Since the 4T would have required a different monocoque frame, they didn't want to have 3 different frames, a 2T mono, a 4T mono, and a Auto tube, they decided on 2 to save money.

wait.. which model scooter has the removable rear section like that ^^^ ?

I want one.. will a 2T vespa motor fit right in there? or is it all different?


I may have an old P rear shock if you haven't got it sorted already. I'll look when I get home.. and the top of the shock is an M8 thread.

And that's how it starts...

Haaa.. well damn G.. I've seen fiberglass / carbon removable rear sections for small frames, but if this bike comes like that I'd love one.. just dump the motor and fit it all up a-la me.. the lift on tail end would come in handy..

(in whiney, sing-songy annoying Rachel Ray voiceP while tliting head left to right with sylibles): Waaant One!

You're right though. It'd make it soooo much easier to work on... change cylinder, clutch etc. I've seen one of them in real life and didn't realise the back lifts off like that.

I made this today. Thanks for posting! Made the wheel swap much easier and safer then my previous ones. Only difference is that I used a regular nut in place of the wing nut.

Hmmm... 300GTV motor...

Way to go! I want to make one too. I think I will use the nut option also. I have a bit of carpal tunnel so the wing nut might be difficult for me. Is it small enough/light enough to fit in a P glovebox. Of course I don't have a spare wheel yet so that could be an issue

Yep, a P 125/150 or 200 engine bolts right in. A guy a while back swapped in one of those NOS P200 engines after he blew up the original. I don't remember how he blew up the engine but he admitted it was his fault, so not covered by warranty, and it was back when they first came out so spare parts were impossible to get because LML had to put all production into meeting demand for the scooters in Europe. Only problem he had was the CDI hit the rear turn signal, so he removed the turn signals. You could go that route, relocate the CDI, or use the LML 2 part CDI/coil. Also, I know a P tank wont fit without modification, a guy on the LMLOCGB forum already tried, I was looking into it because the PX tank is .7 gallons bigger. Might make a mint selling the engine or parting it out, Genuine is low on the totem pole when it comes to parts, all the spares go to Europe.

Decided I should probably should measure the shock and threads first to see if a PX shock will work, a lot easier than getting an old shock shipped to me. Then if they match, test fit the old shock. Your welcome. It's really small, like 6-7" long, so it fights right into a small tool bag with your tools in your glovebox. Yeah, the wing nut is a little hard to turn. If you need a spare tire, I have a Kenda with quite a bit of life left that I will be taking off when I fit the Heidenaus K38s I bought. Just get yourself a rim. Wouldn't fit. LML had to do some significant design changes to a GY6 to get it to fit, like reorientating the cylinder.

Spare wheel... Rideable scoot... Much th same

True. right now I could use a spare scoot.

True. right now I could use a spare scoot.

You know, the more I think about it, the more I think they tried to design the 4T engine to fit into a 2T frame. One of the biggest reasons I think is the swing arm length, it's the same as a P engine, but to fit the 4T engine into its frame requires a engine "link" to push the engine back 1.5-2". They tried to design this engine to retain as much of the P engine as possible. Clutch and transmission are all the same, bore and stroke are almost the same, crankshaft and bore are on the same axes, pretty sure the crankshaft uses the same forging. Basically they lengthened the cases to create a larger oil sump, and tacked on an oil pump, timing chain and four stroke head.

I was sort of disappointed at first they didn't use the monocoque frame, but now all I care is they retained the P series sexiness. I can't decide if the P or the Rally is my favorite.
That leg shield curve.

Too curvey for me. I like em boxier

But the Rally and the P had a the curviest legshield, earlier Vepsas had a flatter leggy that conflicted with their curvy ass. The P and the Rally have a great balance of angular and curvy. Can't decide if I like more curvy, Rally, or more angular, P.

So the question is so you want curves up front and a flat ads. Or less curves up front and a shapely ass. It's a tough life

Is this getting sexual?

But it's about balance, in scooters and women.

It is now.....


I was gonna get herself to get a picture of me dry humping the T5 but she doesn't like that thing as it is

Finally, after 5 months, i got my shorter 4th gear 37t. Thank you Sip.
And the last few weeks, i swapped the Bajaj fork for a PX one, better suspension and brake. And put a brake disc on the Px.

Merry xmas for everybody.

Sara

Looks great Sara!