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Mr. Clean
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marubadu wrote:
This one right here.
That looks Fantastic Patrick.. You did a really nice job.. I'm happy for you and proud of you!

Fantastic
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Took my flywheel off in order to remove the e-start ring, but the e-start ring is part of the flywheel and the whole thing is cast iron and weighs around 6 pounds. So much for trying to remove a half pound of rotational weight from the end of the crankshaft. I did figure out, though, that a clutch holding tool can be used as a flywheel holding tool on the LML external pickup flywheels. Just hook it on the pickup tab and a flywheel cover bolt.

I also bought a bottle of Moxie at a local hardware store that carries a bunch of weird regional pop from across the country, it is quite delicious.
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UTC quote
Neurotic-Hapi-Snak wrote:
Took my flywheel off in order to remove the e-start ring, but the e-start ring is part of the flywheel and the whole thing is cast iron and weighs around 6 pounds. So much for trying to remove a half pound of rotational weight from the end of the crankshaft. I did figure out, though, that a clutch holding tool can be used as a flywheel holding tool on the LML external pickup flywheels. Just hook it on the pickup tab and a flywheel cover bolt.

I also bought a bottle of Moxie at a local hardware store that carries a bunch of weird regional pop from across the country, it is quite delicious.
If its LML, it's only interference fit... Heat th ring & prise it off
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runny arse
dreading tomorrow. .... bulls got an airleak a chipped 3rd n a leaky drive seal ...... wanna get it done in one day n ready for work on monday

wish me luck
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UTC quote
SubEtherBASS wrote:
Neurotic-Hapi-Snak wrote:
Took my flywheel off in order to remove the e-start ring, but the e-start ring is part of the flywheel and the whole thing is cast iron and weighs around 6 pounds. So much for trying to remove a half pound of rotational weight from the end of the crankshaft. I did figure out, though, that a clutch holding tool can be used as a flywheel holding tool on the LML external pickup flywheels. Just hook it on the pickup tab and a flywheel cover bolt.

I also bought a bottle of Moxie at a local hardware store that carries a bunch of weird regional pop from across the country, it is quite delicious.
If its LML, it's only interference fit... Heat th ring & prise it off
I didn't see any seam between the e-start ring and the rest of the flywheel, and they seem to be made of the same material, which looks to be cast iron/steel. Maybe I'll check again, there is a none e-start flywheel available for non e-start 4Ts.
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63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella, 66 Smallstate, 66 Lammy S3, 63 Lammy S3 Riverside
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UTC quote
Came out and pushed the Stella off its stand. Found an oil drip and gas splashed out the muffler. Turned out I'd left the tap on and the float needle was done.

I replaced the float needle and tightened the oil drain. I guess it leaked a little after I changed it last week. Looks like I might have a head leak, too.

I guess I'll have to pull the head and barrel and lap them.

Meh.
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Just went on a group ride w/ Mr. Anderson and a big group from Long Beach.. had a great ride down there, and fun meetup, but then we got caught in the pissing rain for 20+ miles on the way home.. not fun.. Razz emoticon
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UTC quote
[quote="Neurotic-Hapi-Snak"][quote="SubEtherBASS"]
Neurotic-Hapi-Snak wrote:
Took my flywheel off in order to remove the e-start ring, but the e-start ring is part of the flywheel and the whole thing is cast iron and weighs around 6 pounds. Maybe I'll check again, there is a none e-start flywheel available for non e-start 4Ts.
4T... I have no idea, if the Trail of smoke stops, it's time to add more oil
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UTC

Style Maven
'74 50s x3 '87 PK125XL '92 PK50XL2 Plurimatic - & - '58 AllState '68 Sprint '66(?) 125 Super '72 DanMotor 150 Super and '04 Bajaj LML hybrid
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UTC quote
more muff surgery
Those Aussies got all excited last time I said "muff surgery", so I thought I'd try to give them another thrill.

I got this home made pipe for a 6pak of fancy beer a couple of years ago, but it was for a 200 and I couldn't really see it on my Rally. Then I got this P200 motor and put in this Sprint and wondered if it might fit & sound & run OK. It's good on all 3 counts, a little louder & brapppy, but only a little. That big can on the end does a good job. It seems considerably faster than the Sito+ it replaced.

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

After I tested fitted it I heard something rattling around inside. So I cut the belly open. Turned out to be(apparently) an internal exit tube(?) of some sort, coming into the expansion chamber from the back. Shown here in red.

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

I drilled three holes and plug welded it back in place, then welded it shut again. No more rattle.

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

Yep, it's a keeper. So...

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The first 4 inches are stainless, so I didn't paint there.

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

I put on an older seat. More comfortable, less scooterboy to help make up for the new pipe.

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text



External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text
Naughty scooter!!!
What do you mean you didn't see the sign?
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well that worked out quite well .... didnt have to drop the lump in the bull just nipped up the head n the leak seams to have gone ..... still need to sort the gears n drive seal

the time I saved I finished the bastards lump 152polini to top it off .... just need to finish painting the gear flywheel n carb covers
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not road legal n all that bollox
not road legal n all that bollox
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74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
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^^^ Nice bit of product placement there!

What flywheel is that Bitza?

Also, which scooter is which? You always talk about the Bull and the Bastard and I never know which one you mean... what's the one you're doing up at the moment, the orange one?
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UTC quote
The orange one is the bastard. The bull has the Bradford rugger shite on it
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Look Ma no leaks! Change out the o-ring in the clutch arm, replace the rear hub seal and reconditioned the rear brake shoes and hub while I was down there.

The repacked silencer has the neighborhood happy, I was hoping for some new found power but performance is the same albeit quieter.
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Finally got the Rally out for a short spin today to work out the bugs - real short. The clutch needed adjustment and I could not get it out of second gear. No lights either. Turn around after a block, went home and discovered the shifter cables were reversed Facepalm emoticon That is what I get for working two jobs, I guess.
Clutch adjustment was easy, but the electrical problems gave me fits. I traced everything and found a dodgy connection (that I built) at the ground. Tail light working! Brake lights next, another dodgy ground fixed. On to the headlights. On my Rally the headlight wire runs from the stator directly to the key switch, then thru the hi/lo, then to the light. No regulator or battery involved, so I check power coming of the stator - 15 to 16 volts. Up by the key switch, 15 to 16 volts. Thru the hi/lo switch- same. At the head light - 5 to 6 volts. So, something is grounding out or a lousy connection. By now my head hurt, and I put it to bed. Electrical problems kill me. But there is always tomorrow.
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Dropped my engine today so I could open up the intake port and check the squish.

Everything was going good till it came to actually getting the motor out and into the stand. First I tried placing the stand under the engine and lowering it into it, but I couldn't get it to line up correctly, plus you have to wiggle the engine some to get it past various things. Well once the motor is out, I try to put it into the stand and the exhaust header is preventing the swing arm from lining up with the stand. So I have to prop up the engine and remove the exhaust which is held on by allen head bolts, so I have to go dig out the allen wrenches. Once that's done and the swing arm is bolted into the stand, I go to bolt the rear shock mount into the stand, but the bracket I made doesn't fit, so I have to rest the rear of the case on a 2x4.

I get the head off, and accidentally let the timing chain fall into the case, so now I have to remove the clutch cover to get it out. Well once I get it open, I see the chain fell off the idler sprocket, so now I have to remove the clutch, too, since the sprocket is behind it. I get the jug off and carefully peel the base gasket off. I got most of the built up carbon off the head, must be running really rich.

Then I carefully sealed up all the parts of the head, cramed play-doh into the intake port, traced the ID of th new intake spacer onto the head, and used a dremel to open the port up. Still have to open it up more, but I'll finish it tomorrow, then check the squish, and put everything back together. Also going to take out the rear shock to see if you can remove the eyelet. Anybody know whats thread size of the stud at the top of a P shock?
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Look at all that room. I want to try to install a non-autolube PX tank in there but it would require some modification to fit, it won't just drop in
Look at all that room. I want to try to install a non-autolube PX tank in there but it would require some modification to fit, it won't just drop in
I wonder if I need new corks? The tabs on the bottom cork are pretty mushroomed
I wonder if I need new corks? The tabs on the bottom cork are pretty mushroomed
Opened the port up by about 2mm+, still have 1mm to go.
Opened the port up by about 2mm+, still have 1mm to go.
Is that carbon on the piston top or some kind of coating? I let some MMO soak in and scrubbed it with a brush, some carbon came off but it's still pretty black
Is that carbon on the piston top or some kind of coating? I let some MMO soak in and scrubbed it with a brush, some carbon came off but it's still pretty black
For Vader, how the engine mounts to the frame
For Vader, how the engine mounts to the frame
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Another picture of the hammered clutch tabs. Should I rebuild the clutch or is this normal wear? Thinking of either rebuilding the 7 spring with a 22T or DRT 23T gear and Surflex corks/steels, or buying a 22T Cosa. I feel it needs a bit of an upgear, but not sure if I should go with a 22T or DRT 23T clutch gear.
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Molto Verboso
Wrecked '61 VNB '65 Allstate '74 Rally 200
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Funky monkey
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63 GL, 76 Super (x2), 74 Primavera (x2), 79 P200, 06 Fly 150
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UTC quote
mr.j wrote:
Look Ma no leaks! Change out the o-ring in the clutch arm, replace the rear hub seal and reconditioned the rear brake shoes and hub while I was down there.

The repacked silencer has the neighborhood happy, I was hoping for some new found power but performance is the same albeit quieter.
Nice mr. j! Now I think to fully evaluate the brakes and repacked exhaust you need to get outside the confines of the neighborhood. Next weekend maybe let's get out and do a little 'canyon testing'... Nerd emoticon
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Vespa PX125 Kitted 'n stuff. Lambretta GP150.
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Boom!
Today I realised it's the Weston-super-Mare Scooter Rally this bank holiday weekend.

I'll be found around that area covered in semi digested food and vomit with a traffic cone on my head..... Bleh emoticon
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Finished porting the head and moved on to checking the squish. I removed the base gasket and used 6 pieces of solder: .051, .051, .051, .051, .053, .053. I wanted to lap the barrel to get it closer to .040, but didn't have time.

Getting the engine back together and in to the scooter went fairly smoothly but took a while. I ended up not finishing tonight, I still have to reconnect all the cables and torque the swing arm and rear shock bolts, so now I can't ride to class in the morning.

I got the carb, exhaust, and wiring hooked up so I could test it. Got it idling and noticed a tapping noise. Feared the worst that it was somehow piston to head or piston to valve contact, but realized it was chain clack from the timing chain being loose (relatively, even without the tensioner I had to unbolt the cam sprocket so I could get the chain over it and the idler sprocket at the same time). I forgot to release the chain tensioner from the locked position from when I fit the chain. Facepalm emoticon

I also noticed as I was putting everything back together that I could go even farther porting, but since I already had the head and timing chain installed, I decided I'll wait till I install the Polini cylinder.
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Molto Verboso
Wrecked '61 VNB '65 Allstate '74 Rally 200
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UTC quote
Neurotic-Hapi-Snak wrote:
valve contact, but realized it was chain clack from the timing chain being loose (relatively, even without the tensioner
Seriously, WHAT THE FUCK dude??

why am I reading about timing chains and valves??
@subetherbass avatar
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UTC quote
macgerk77 wrote:
Neurotic-Hapi-Snak wrote:
valve contact, but realized it was chain clack from the timing chain being loose (relatively, even without the tensioner
Seriously, WHAT THE FUCK dude??

why am I reading about timing chains and valves??
I think he is a foreigner ... I have no idea what he is on about, but suspect my scoot is missing a few things, the only chain I can find is the one stopping people from nicking my scoot, but I suppose the reed-block could be considered a valve, unless he is speaking of the fuel tap? Tensioner, well that is normally the other half after I spend far too long cursing my repair attempts.

But I did see Polini mentioned
It's also a bit sus as to what happened to the rest of the chassis? Bodged maybe?
It's also a bit sus as to what happened to the rest of the chassis? Bodged maybe?
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UTC quote
Chains and Valves?? Is it a vespa or a toilet?!
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UTC quote
spuds
Ginch wrote:
What flywheel is that Bitza?
standard t5
jackson85 wrote:
The bull has the Bradford rugger shite on it
cunt Razz emoticon
@macgerk77 avatar
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Molto Verboso
Wrecked '61 VNB '65 Allstate '74 Rally 200
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UTC quote
jackson85 wrote:
Chains and Valves?? Is it a vespa or a toilet?!
Well it sure as shit ain't a Vespa, so I guess that kinda narrows it down, now don't it?
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Finished, at least for now. Got all the lights working, cables adjusted, timing set and carb sorted. I may add bar end turn signals later, but for now, I'm going to rock it the way it is. I celebrated by attaching the leg shied hexagon emblem.
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UTC quote
Really great T.. and a Rally ta-boot. as you know.. I'm happy for you.. enjoy it and scoot safe.
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Molto Verboso
Wrecked '61 VNB '65 Allstate '74 Rally 200
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UTC quote
got about halfway to the store before I realized that something felt way too good to be legal... then realized I had nothing on my head but my trusty flat-cap... d'oh!

no harm no foul i guess...
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UTC quote
Done that one mac. Didn't realise til I felt myself casually light a fag at the lights.
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Johnny Two Tone
'15 GTS300, '86 PX125EFL, '66 VBB, '01 ET4
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UTC quote
Got my o-ringed head back from Hot Rod Scooters, looks the business. Time to reassemble the smallie!!!
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Hooked
Vespa P200, Primavera 130, VNA200, Italjet Pack-a-Way Moped, Ciao etc
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UTC quote
Rode to work
Finally running in my Polini 210 engined P after being sidelined for a year (new baby, two broken scooters).

Rode the two-lane back highway like I was being followed by a cop, but felt so good.
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Molto Verboso
Wrecked '61 VNB '65 Allstate '74 Rally 200
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Aaaaaand... today I left my helmet in the shop after the boss locked up the shop and left. Soooo... I got to ride home without a helmet... Felt good on my freshly shaved melon... And the extra visibility was great for watching for cops... And I could use my shift hand to smoke too... And I bet i looked extra cool w/ out the astronaut gear 8)












Still felt like a dumbass tho
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macgerk77 wrote:
Aaaaaand... today I left my helmet in the shop after the boss locked up the shop and left.

Still felt like a dumbass tho
Don't feel too bad Mack.. I pulled a boner today too..

I rode my P to the hardware store, put my key in my back pocket (I'd forgotten that the jeans I have on have a big hole in the back pocket)..

ANYWAAAAYYY.. I bought my chit, went out to leave and discovered I'd lost my key..

I searched every bit of that store and the short distance I'd walked in the parking lot... had the whole staff looking for me..

NOTHING! I think a kid picked it up. There were a few women w/ young kids in the store.. (I know I know.. blame it on a thief kid.. real nice! Razz emoticon )

We couldn't find my key.. so thankfully my key switch has seen better days and a key that was at the bottom of my glovebox (I have no idea what this key is for) did the trick.. lol

It is hard to turn, so I'm not sure what I'll do.. get a new ignition? can you have keys made for a '78 P? Anyone have a good answer? I'd rather not buy a new ignition if possible.. I've never had to deal w/ having a scooter key made/replaced so I'm all ears if someone has a good suggestion.

F'in holy jeans.. that's what I get for having carried a small bic lighter back there for several years.. Facepalm emoticon
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Molto Verboso
Wrecked '61 VNB '65 Allstate '74 Rally 200
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UTC quote
Vader19 wrote:
(I know I know.. blame it on a thief kid.. real nice! Razz emoticon )
I think I found the kid that stole your key...
External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

anyhoo... I dunno, bro... I had some jocks at a bar steal the keys to my 81 P2, after I tried to pick a fight w/ em... started it w/ a screwdriver til I sold it...

was it just the ignition key, or the fork lock key too?
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Molto Verboso
1974 V90
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UTC quote
Tierney wrote:
Finished, at least for now. Got all the lights working, cables adjusted, timing set and carb sorted. I may add bar end turn signals later, but for now, I'm going to rock it the way it is. I celebrated by attaching the leg shied hexagon emblem.
That scooter is gorgeous. Really nice job T.
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Joined: UTC
Posts: 8353
Location: Tega Cay, SC
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8353
Location: Tega Cay, SC
UTC quote
Retro, Thanks for the kind words. Your P came out nice as well. And now you have a smallie - so you have more moxie than me as I never had the nerve to own more than one scoot at a time. Razz emoticon
Vader, Is JimH still on the forum? He made up some P200 keys for me and all I had to do is send him my ignition switch. And he did not want any money for it. So I wrapped the switch with $20 when I packaged it. No such thing as a free lunch....don't cha know.
@vader19 avatar
UTC

Mr. Clean
P,SUPER,V90, 50 Special
Joined: UTC
Posts: 10205
Location: This is't my locker!
 
Mr. Clean
@vader19 avatar
P,SUPER,V90, 50 Special
Joined: UTC
Posts: 10205
Location: This is't my locker!
UTC quote
Thanks T...

I'm not sure if Jim follows lately.. I surely do miss him..

I'll give him a shout.. I know he's the master of all things keys/locks and pretty much as high a quality person as you can find..
UTC

Veni, Vidi, Posti
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8353
Location: Tega Cay, SC
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8353
Location: Tega Cay, SC
UTC quote
Vader19 wrote:
Thanks T...

pretty much as high a quality person as you can find..
No doubt about that, good guy for sure.
@ginch avatar
UTC

Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: UTC
Posts: 10133
Location: Ballarat VIC, Australia
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
@ginch avatar
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: UTC
Posts: 10133
Location: Ballarat VIC, Australia
@vader19 avatar
UTC

Mr. Clean
P,SUPER,V90, 50 Special
Joined: UTC
Posts: 10205
Location: This is't my locker!
 
Mr. Clean
@vader19 avatar
P,SUPER,V90, 50 Special
Joined: UTC
Posts: 10205
Location: This is't my locker!
UTC quote
Ginch wrote:
http://www.allmotorcyclekeys.com/
Thanks G

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