Modern Vespa

Dammit ! I was in Alamosa, Pueblo,Colorado Springs and Denver about 4 5 weeks ago.

So close and yet so far.

Keep it up girl.

Bill xxx

What a great story, and great pics too!!!!

But inquiring minds gotta know.......how often did you have to add oil or coolant?

fried okra

I start adding oil around 2000 miles after an oil change, and change the oil around 3-4k depending on what's convenient. I carry spare oil filters and aluminum to make a funnel, so I can change the oil in an Autozone parking lot.

The coolant was flushed in San Francisco, about 32k. I topped it up again around 46k, but only a splash.

Q you should get one of these. It's a reusable oil filter. The company came on a while back and made them for our scooters. I paid $99 and their $139 now. However it's great not having to have spare oil filters. If you had one when you started you'd of made your money back already. The companies name is Scott's. Their phone number is 818-242-6747. I just clean mine. Comes with a extra o-ring but haven't needed so far. Had mine for 3-4yrs now. The quality is superb. I was bummed because you can't see it. Very shiny stainless steel. 8)

judy: Thanks for the tip. I've considered Scotts, but eventually decided to pass. It came down to the convenience of just carrying disposable spares vs finding a place to clean the filter (and carrying solvent). Seems to be a personal preference, I may switch in the future. Thankfully, when I passed through Vespa SF they topped me up on spare filters, and I'm still using those up!

Texas Forever Part 1: It's Plains to see I'm going to Austin. April 6 - April 17, 2015.



I'm making tracks! For those wondering how I chart a path, it's roughly planned around a few fixed dates, and locations where I know I can hole up for a while. In this case, I had a motorcycle event I wanted to attend in Austin, and an impending work deadline that would require a stable location, Houston.

The content of the 4 days it would take me to ride to Austin blur together in my mind - wake up, pack up camp, and point the bike down the road. The landscape was mostly vacant yet I never felt lacking; ah, the duality of the open road.


Scoot has been in Nebraska. Only for 7 miles, admittedly. I just clipped the corner of the state.


Next: Kansas.


Rather pretty, in a hypnotic way.


Roadside attraction?


Great, now I feel sad.


Free camping at the Kansas Travel Information Center.

The wind was incredible for the entire journey. I was barely able to pitch my tent behind a barrier at the Travel Info Center without the air current snatching it away. Otherwise, I was actually pretty happy with camp; restrooms, free coffee in the morning, an outlet for my devices, and earplugs blocked out the noise of the 18-wheelers' generators.

Unfortunately, the morning revealed a heavy fog, and something I'm still getting used to after months in California: rain. Oh, the rider's best frenemy.


This is a thing?!


I think that is not BBQ.


Another state.


Actually quite beautiful, though mind-numbing.


Here we go. I'll be sticking around for a while.


Thanks for the warning, I've been riding leaned into a crosswind for the past 400 miles or so.


Attempted to find a cheap motel.

Many people have asked if I've ever been in a bad situation on my travels. Hunting for a cheap motel on the west side of Amarillo wins the distinction of being the one time I felt unsafe enough to leave. Something about the demeanor of reception, the bulletproof glass, and the few patrons I saw floating around convinced me it was worth an extra $10/night for a room by the airport, and my scooter intact when I emerged in the morning.

Yep, I do stay in motels once in a while, especially if it's bookended by free camping.


Homf homf public art.

Besides, Amarillo had affordable rates...probably because there is nothing else redeeming about this city. When picking routes, it was either going to be Wichita and Oklahoma City, or some alone time with the road and the Cadillac Ranch. My social life had begun to feel like a train station recently, so I was looking forward to solitude and the quiet simplicity of riding all day and sleeping in a private space, even if it's a field, at night.


Climbing some Cadillacs.


Creepin.


Someone else looks like they're having a good trip!


My neighbor-biker has a spare jerry can for these distances too.

Actually, I revise my statement on Amarillo. At the Cadillacs, another traveler offered me some spray paint to tag the cars. Some chatter later and with nothing to lose, he offered that he would be at the local Hooters for dinner if I wanted to join him. I found him, and we had a pleasant evening of conversation about skydiving (his passion), travel (he's in town only tonight for a marketing gig related to skydiving), and mutual appreciation for platonic conversation at bars. One stranger reaching out can change the entire color of a local experience.


Palo Duro Canyon State Park is right in the neighborhood.


A short, beautiful loop for an early lunch break.


Does this count as a water crossing?


The weather. It's coming for me.

I had a spot in mind for free camping, but radar revealed a menacingly expansive orange and red blob. Town after identical town rolled by, and in Hamlin I made a mental note of the RV camp by the town center...but I felt like something more secluded. However, I was also not entirely confident GPS coordinates from the website were correct. I passed the turn off the first time, but eventually picked my way to a cleared spot along a dried lake bed. Debris was scattered around the remains of a fire pit, but I didn't feel like turning around; dusk was on my heels, with the storm shortly after.


Home sweet camp with beer cans and tire tracks.


Pitched tent in the lee of the...shrubs. The phrase always makes me think of the Secret of NIMH.


These are all shot in the morning, I hustled in the tent as the sun set.

The wind had been pushing me sideways for days now, but shortly after I pitched tent it reached new levels of ferocity. Huge clouds were pierced by lightning and announced by thunder, and I peered at their impending mass through the mesh for as long as the skies stayed up. When the drops finally became too much, I zipped close the rainfly, opened my flask of whiskey, and lay down for the night. Here's to testing my new old tent, and not getting struck by lightning or flooded, I thought hopefully. The trembling arms of the bushes next to me were illuminated in flashes, a violent shadow-play across my ceiling. The tent itself rippled and flapped for extra effect, but the sound couldn't drown out the thunder. I never would have guessed I'd come to prefer a tent in a storm over...whatever I had before. Also, I really hope no one shows up with a gun. I texted a few friends my location, still tasting whiskey on my tongue, and listened to the show until I fell asleep.


I found these shells next to my tent in the morning.

The Down Range Solo weathered the storm beautifully. I just had to pick my way back over this mess to get back on the main road...


Wheeeee.


The turn off is between those trees. Sneaky, no?


I approve of this coffee shop.


Break for breakfast in Cross Plains, TX. Looks like there's some camping over the bridge in this town as well?


Arrived in Austin! Let's get weird.

I'll try to spare you all the photos of bikes at the Handbuilt Motorcycle Show, since there are plenty of better ones floating around. Besides, the other reason I wanted to show up was to see the Wall of Death set up in the back!


Looking familiar, but with screwdriver handle.


Free shows and packed stands every time. 


Okay, maybe this one because it's traveled.


I liked peering at bikes outside, as well... touring setup win, little Honda.


Hey, it's a Rally!


Alright, some bikes. I still like the little bikes.


Ow.


So odd and futurist looking.


And this one because I like the painting behind it.


Do you drive the Vespa?


Coffee and charging devices with awesome person Rebecca.

I first met Rebecca in Mitchel, SD at the Klock Werks pre-party, introduced by another wandering motorcyclist, Joe Sparrow. Rebecca also works and lives on her bike, it was great sharing our experiences and struggles over coffee. It's like there's a floating community of us.


Most of my evenings look like this: food truck meal and book date.

I divided my time between a hostel and an Airbnb, but for one night I found myself homeless. It's just like the Wall of Death guys to let me crash in the drome, bonus I have a cool roommate.


Hi again, Rebecca!


Goodnight.


Empty in the morning.


Revival Cycles has amazing cutaways at their shop.


So...


...coooool.


Reverse lever?!


Square four engine?!


Time to wrap up.


Big top comes down.


Wall pieces dismantled.


Many hands.


Loading up.

Jack, another friend of the Wall, and I lent a hand to disassemble the Motor Drome. He's been staying on his best friend's couch in Austin for a few months while recovering from a BMX accident, but before that he'd been on a car wander. In the evenings, we poked around Revival Cycle's afterparty, took a ride to see the bats under the bridge, or Barton Springs, or skate parks (Jack's passion).

I had to admit, Austin seemed like a playground of food and drink, but with no one to play with...until Jack. I saw the city in a different light following him on his buddy's loaner bike. Also, Jack is a wheelie machine.


Hanging out on buddy's roof after Wall teardown.


Found other travelers on Mount Bonnell.


Nice view up here.


Jack and I poke around AF1 while I wait for a new rear tire.


Alas, time to return the loaner bike.


Fun with signs.


Saying bye to friends at the Eastside Trails.


Seems like a good spot to watch.


Flying!

Jack was already counting down the days until he was healed up enough and ready to go to help out at the next BMX event. His loaner bike was returned, and after only a few days of getting to know him it was time to bid farewell. For travelers though, it's never really goodbye; only until next time.


I have a go at the sign.


One of the many coffee-shops-during-day-turned-bar-at-night places that I'm fond finding myself with a book, laptop, or sketchbook. Austin has a lot of these.


Until next time, Austin.

I only had a day left at my Airbnb as well. After breakfast at Bacon with my adopted BMX friends, I gave Dani, Jack's friend, and Jake, still lingering from the Wall, big hugs. Next stop: Houston.

Nice

Can't wait to see the H-town entry!

I hope you don't get scooter-jacked!

I am looking forward to meeting and riding with you next week. I am bringing a Rocket & Me t-shirt for you.

Yayyy!! I'm looking forward to it too, fingers crossed for clear weather (but really I'll be there rain or shine heh)!

So jealous

Feel free to join us David. I might have a choice of three working GT's by Tuesday. One might have your name on it.

wow, why did I not see this before?
quezzie, you are everything I aspire to be. Excellent writing, great photos, and huge independence!
I really want to make it up to New England in 2016 and I hope I can meet you there.

Catched your latest blog already on wednesday, quezzie. Can't wait each time to see the next. I envy you for that fanstastic adventures. Keep on riding! Great set of bikes you discovered over there in Texas 8)

Q i don't have to clean my oil filter to shiny. So not much of a mess.However the replaceable ones are just fine. Didn't know if you knew about them. I love traveling by myself. Your as alone as you want to be. Met some really cool people traveling over the years. I don't have a shy bone in my body but when you travel alone it makes you interact with others. I love the fact you slept on the floor in "the wall". You have me beat. I once slept in a cell of a jail in Zambia. Our bus broke down and when we got a new one they didn't put the current paperwork in it. We had a check point that we couldn't get thru. I was talking to the head of the jail and he gave me a tour. No prisoners so i asked him if i could sleep on one on the beds. Hey it beats sleeping upright in a bus. He also wanted to sell me the Police motorcycle he rode. Told him i couldn't fit it in my suitcase. Love your blog. I should of done one but alas i'm horrible about writing things down when i'm traveling. Also i did most of mine before computers.

Texas Forever Part 2: Bikes, Buddies, Brisket, and Books. April 18 - May 14, 2015.



Houston has been the home of my uncle and aunt for as long as I can remember. My earliest memories of carsickness - I mean, road trips - are of taking the family car from Atlanta to visit them. In any case, I have my own two wheels now, so I was looking forward to seeing them again.


Kolaches! Thanks, immigrant cultures.
These were spotted an an enormous gas station/truck stop, as I'd learn is popular in Texas.


More storms. Glad to not be on scoot.

I'd forgotten that Texas gets Texas-sized weather. Shortly after I'd unloaded and the three of us took the car to the same Mexican restaurant they always take family, the skies darkened. Water fell in sheets, lightning and thunder bounced off the walls, and there was a brief power outage - but it was all theatrics while Auntie Chloris and I sipped margaritas from behind the safety of plastic palm ferns. On the news back at Yue Houston HQ, there were reports of flooding and stalled cars. It was a bit of a surprise, and I had to remind myself, You're back in the bayou, halfway to Galveston. It's low land. Later I would completely forget this, and those waters would find me, but tonight I was secure and cozy with family.


Being back in the Chinese community means friend-family dinner!
Also, you've failed as a host unless everyone is waddling from the table from carbs expanding in bellies.


Abalone, conch, scallop, chicken congee. Prepared by master hands, the ultimate comfort food.

Part of the reason for hustling to Houston was because I had a book deadline to meet, and Uncle Bun and Auntie Chloris had room for me for to stay longer. Years ago, they had expected the rest of his brother's family to emigrate. When it fell through, the two of them found themselves in an enormous, mostly empty, 6-bedroom house. Since then, it's become something of a storage unit/Chinese community hostel for pretty much the rest of my family in the U.S. - they even adopted some of my parent's stuff from Atlanta when we moved to Beijing in '94.

"Space isn't a problem in Texas," was Uncle Bun's attitude, when I asked. Laid-back, young at heart, feasting-centric, they're also the only one of my uncle and aunties who chose not to have children. It cemented my adoration for them early on, which persists to this day.

They did up a little studio space with the cast-offs from a furniture set I had a kid. In many ways, people like them provide the backbone for my travels, and it would be impossible (at least very, very difficult) without them. I'm extremely grateful.


Holy floating luxury city, Galveston.

On the weekend, we visited places with names I recognized from childhood; Galveston, Kemah, all manner of BBQ...


Oyster happy hour with Auntie Chloris. Galveston, TX.


I'll be seeing a lot of this desk in the coming month.


Brisket break.


A Texas basement exploded in here, if you want to check out Central Texas BBQ in Pearland.


It's crawfish season.


Holy mudbugs you guys know how to eat.

Weekend food orgies contrasted with my weekday diet of coffee and painkillers. In order to ride as much as I wanted, I stacked work relentlessly; to keep me at the desk in an unforgiving drawing posture, I alternated stimulants and depressants with a steady stream of anti-inflammatories and anti-histamines (I'm allergic to something in Houston). Balance went out the window and my liver took a beating, but I have never missed a deadline.


A bit of Houston sightseeing: The Orange Show.


This place is crazy, also lots of things to climb!


But mostly crazy.


Ongoing mosaic outside the grounds.


Folk art and stuff.


There's a spot inside that will amplify sound. Also, crazy angler fish.


This passage from Ted Simon's Jupiter Travels made me laugh, because it's true.
Sidenote: After several paper books got destroyed by rain, I read on my iPad now.


View from Bubba's Shrimp Palace after dinner.


At least I found these guys! Euro Moto group meets on Tuesdays. Many Guzzis and Beemers.

In the same breath that I feel lucky for my good fortune in career, the adjustment back to the drafting table was an unpleasant reminder of the lifestyle that both afforded me such freedom yet I thought I could leave behind. I consumed motorcycle media, catching up on ride reports, Ted Simon's classic, Jupiter's Travels, and Somewhere Else Tomorrow. I tried to get out in the evenings with regularity, because the oppressive heat during the day explained why everyone else shuffled around in enormous air-conditioned SUVs (and never check blind spots...but anyway). Thursday, I followed my family to a ping-pong night. On a Tuesday, I rode an hour and a half across town to meet the European Motorcycle Riders - a tip I got from Fritz, a friendly guy I met at the Handbuilt Motorcycle Show. It was great hanging out and talking bikes!


Thanks, Otto at Biltwell!

Another bonus from the Handbuilt Motorcycle show was meeting Otto, from Biltwell. He sent me a care package of goodies. Thanks so much! I love the helmet and already have a spot in mind for the gas bottle.


Happy birthday, Uncle Bun! You guys are killing me with cute. Kemah, TX.


I boarded the Boardwalk Bullet at Kemah, because I haven't been on a wooden rollercoaster before. It's surprising, loud, and got my adrenaline pumping.
Apparently the same company owns all these amusement parks and waterfronts.

Days settled into a routine of Hong Kong news channels in the morning (which made me nostalgic for my parents' place), hiding in air-conditioning for work, and a quiet meal with my uncle and aunt and maybe some of their friends in the evening. It was stable and comfortable...and I was terribly, terribly restless. My uncle and aunt seemed to have unlocked some sort of key to happiness, and in contrast I doubted myself. Will I one day find contentment in the routine necessary to build this kind of quiet, stable life? Is it just immaturity that I'm only at peace while moving, comfortable when uncomfortable? I'd already realized I only like to rest long enough until I'm ready to go again. The Roar kept me awake at the end of each predictable day.


Done yet?! Nope, gotta scan and Photoshop retouch out all my mistakes...


So many aunties!


And all the uncles.


Of course everyone wants to sit on the scooter.


And take photos. C'mon guys, I'm headed to San Antonio!

Fortunately, I had the Spring Fling Scooter Rally, hosted by the Motorcycle Shop in San Antonio, to look forward to. Before the rally though, I had a few people to meet...and a Mexican Honda Cub.


Hi, Oog! Note from the mirror, I am on the other Cub.

Oog was tempting me with a Super Cub ride, how could I say no? These things drive so weird, but fun!


Thank you for excellent company over Mexican dinner!


We hit the art walk to look at fishies after dinner.


It's surreal to see the reflections of these giant glowing fish in the water, and the sound of traffic overhead. I loved it.


After a Mexican bakery breakfast, it's rally time!


Spring Fling, at the Motorcycle Shop.


Purty.


Don't need a kickstand.


An actual pet carrier. And doggles, of course.


Drinks and music at the end of a leisurely ride. Ran into some scooterists from New Orleans!


Gymkhana. The Spring Fling has all the elements of a rally, but only in one day.


Not done riding, so we made our own ragtag group ride.


Checking out motorcycle sculpture.


Peeking.


Climbing.


Touristing.


Still not done with the day, Debbie, knows of a great oyster happy hour.

In my continual search for a place to stay, I was introduced to Debbie. She's an awesome person and a fixture in the riding community, both scooters and motorcycles. Similar to my uncle and aunt, she had expected more family to move in, and when they didn't she found herself with space for travelers. Actually, based on her history of taking in rider strays, we began jokingly calling her place Debbie's Home For Wayward Two-Wheelers. She also jokes that if she built a house it would be a one-bedroom with a four car garage. Sounds reasonable to me...

I put a call out on Facebook for anyone who might want to tool around Hill Country with me, and Kristen showed up on her GTS!


Surveying the landscape.


We rode 2/3 of the Three Sisters.


Amazingly, Kristen is from Texas but this was her first cow crossing?!


Scooter frolicking in the wildflowers.


I'm glad Kristen is pretty chill with my just pulling over for photos.


There were shoes lined up along this section.


Huh.


Dinner in New Braunfels, TX.


Some country music spot or something.

It was great getting to know Kristen! After cooping myself up to draw, it was bliss carving up the hills with new friends on bikes. I didn't even mind when it rained; Deb had a great selection of motorcycle books and I read curled up with her dog, Bacio.


Going for another BBQ run with Deb and Kristen.


Cooper's Old Time Pit Bar-B-Que.


OMGBBQ. Truly killer brisket.


Evening at Debbie's local biker bar hangout, Hills & Dales.


Meeting Thomas of Electric Powered Odyssey at AF1 in New Braunfels.


USA to Patagonia on a Zero. Woa!


Hitching a ride to lunch on Karen's trike while the Zero gets a new tire.


OMGBBQPIT. The Salt Lick is a huge venue.


My favorite brisket so far. Or do I say that every time? Maybe it's because I was so hungry...Also, this is the 'senior' portion. Haha, Texas.


Meeting other GTSers in Austin for Kristen's friend's birthday. Hi, Josh!
There's an enclave of red GTSes in Austin, apparently.


The glowing comfort of a nighttime truck stop.

It turns out Kristen is another GTS rider who has plans for a long haul. She does the Austin to San Antonio run on the regular, and I followed her once for just an evening. I ended up taking Josh's bike for a run, which I'm pretty sure hit 70mph between lights (I wasn't looking down just hanging on), and we buzzed around the city until 1am before starting the ride back. I don't usually like covering distance at night, but it was a fun change to follow Kristen. I also ticked over 40k that night. Austin is a different city with friends!


Back in San Antonio, Karen alerted me to Lisa and Simon's presentation at the local BMW dealership.


When people ask why I took my Vespa instead of my Kawasaki: I picked the bike I liked riding the most, not what someone else thinks is 'right' or not, because I'm the one who's going to be sitting on it for thousands of miles.
It was an affirming and inspiring presentation. Lisa and Simon have great insight and sense of humor!


The bikes were parked in the showroom. It's cool that Alamo BMW Motorcycles does this kind of thing.
They also tried to sell me an F700GS. Haha, so much bike.


These things have been going for 12 years...

Before I returned to Houston, I shared one more sushi meal with Debbie and her motorcycle sisters. I'm going to miss her Home For Wayward Two-Wheelers.


Seemed appropriate.


Pit stop at Shiner brewery on the otherwise kind of boring ride back to Houston. I enjoyed their Prickly Pear.

Back in Houston, my uncle and aunt were in a flurry of packing for a vacation to Hong Kong, and I had a bit of bike work to do (as well handing in artwork). Still, there's time for hanging out with Troy (ADV troyfromtexas) before he's off on a bicycle trip in Cuba or something?!


Oysters and gumbo with Troy (troyfromtexas).


Poking around Rice University. This sculpture looks like the one in Des Moines...


Troy followed me in climbing!


Larry from the Euro Moto group loaned me a lift to change my belt.
Thank you so much, MPH Cycles! I'm sorry it took so long, it's my first go at doing it myself.

Remember when I said I would forget that I'm in the bayou?

I thought I could outrun a storm, and dashed the entire length of Houston's sprawl to get back to Clearlake. A mere 5 miles from home base, I hit the rain... and the subsequent flooding. Hazard lights flashed from stopped cars, but I was so close. It wasn't until the second flooded section of road that I crossed, only 3.3 miles from my destination, that I thought it might be wiser to pull over and wait it out.

I found a likely looking plaza and pulled in, pointing the bike towards the covered area where a few people were already huddled. There was a dip in the parking lot I would have to cross, but it didn't seem too bad...until the water reached my floorboard and my engine went *gluglugshudderdie*. My heart froze. I coasted into a parking spot with a terrible knot in my stomach. Was my trip over in Houston?


FYI: That dip is deeper than it looks.

I sat myself outside a closed pizza joint, sopping wet and cold, and debated my next move. There was no one home to rescue the bike, and I was afraid to start it...I wasn't ready to know if it didn't turn over. In the meantime, the lights from fire trucks came and went, and other stranded folks gathered.

Chris worked at the nearby military base and his car was hydrolocked. Lisa had parked hers on a median while a fireman escorted her to the plaza. With nothing to do but watch the water level rise and eventually fall, we passed getting to know each other. In that way that natural disasters bring people together, the pizza shop reopened to let us warm up and maybe buy some snacks.


Flood buddies forever.

When the water was finally low enough, it was Fritz that drove across town to my rescue! His all-wheel drive Ford arrived to ferry me back to the Yue outpost. Chris came along to help unload my bike. Thanks guys!


Fritz and Chris, my flood heroes.

My heart eventually started beating again, when my bike started after a few coughs. I let it run for a while to hopefully steam out some water. It was 3am. I slept deeply, no Roar.


Oops.


Scooter wet itself. Dammit, I just cleaned this.


Drying off.

I texted everyone with some mechanical knowhow about what to check for on my bike. Mercifully, there was only a little bit of water in the oil, and everything was running fine after I wrung out the air filter. I felt like a dummy, but disaster was averted!


Lisa and Lauren.

To celebrate, I met up with my flood buddy, Lisa, and her friend, Lauren, for a last night out in Clearlake. I think it was a college town bro kind of scene, I haven't had a guy open conversation with an offer to buy me a shot...probably since college. Or maybe it's a Texas guy thing? It was one hell of a farewell evening with these gals.


Testing new configuration for spare gas. So long, jerry can, you've been replaced by the cooler.


Ride out to Texas City Dike, just to regain confidence that everything is running.


Nice warm up for getting back on the road.

The scooter was not drowned, luggage was reorganized and more balanced, and work was all handed in. My uncle and aunt had already departed for Hong Kong. I left a small box of belongings in Texas (my contribution to the Yue Family Storage), eagerly packed up my life again, and set out for a new state. Solo again, it's time to roll!

You make my life so much better while reading your tales and seeing the pictures. Keep safe! Roll safe!

Quezzie, you mentioned work. Do you write articles as a profession?

Not yet, but I'm open to it. Always looking for ways to pay for food, fuel, and parts!

Currently, my primary work is in illustrating books and comics: http://jellycity.com/

I have occasionally worked promo, which is a lot of fun!

W W

What an adventure... Spent half my day reading this thread while at work ooops .. Got some catching up to do now, and its all your fault lol...

Keep it going... Great posts & photo's

must get back to work. Must get back to work.MUST GET BACK TO WORK!!!

That was great! Was familiar with nearly every place you posted.

Dogpatches and Adventure Riding in Arkansas. May 15 - 21, 2015.


It's a super long map.

I'd heard the Ozarks had beautiful riding, but I had no idea how to start. Truth be told, before visiting Arkansas it had so little bearing on my life that I wouldn't have been able to point it out on a map (this can be said of many of the states in the middle, which was part of what I wanted to rectify the really, really long way).

I had a long riding day planned right off the bat to get me in the right area, even the overcast skies couldn't get me down.


New gas can arrangement, thanks to Otto from Biltwell!


Still a little wet starting out, but I like these quiet secondary roads. Nobody else here!


Except high water, which I have a bit of fear for now.


Another state.


Sing it with me?

The last time I was in the region, I had originally planned to pass through Texarkana heading west (I turned north instead). Now, I am actually going through Texarkana...heading east! You could say, with all my luggage, I was east bound and down...

Debbie put me in touch with her motorcycle friend, Wayne, my destination for the night. After meeting their three pugs, Wayne and Sheryl took me to their favorite local spot.


Pop's Place has cozy lights and wraparound patio. We watched the sun set over the trees.


Wayne and Sheryl, two of the sweetest people ever.

Wayne had time to ride part of the way north with me the next day, but first some touristing...


One wheel in each state in front of the post office straddling the state line.


A kind passerby offered to take a photo. Of course, Wayne is on the AR side.
Before parting ways, Wayne gave me some pointers for good roads in his home state. Each time we paused in a town for a snack or gas he would say, "Aw I should get back... Maybe at the next town." We ended up sharing the road as far as Mineral Springs. Then Center Point. Then Dierks. They were the kind of roads I could ride all day without getting tired. Thanks for welcoming me, Wayne!


Starting to get purty around here.


The hillside I climbed to take above photo.


Not a bad view for an onboard lunch break.


Unexpectedly back in OK for a tick, but on the other side of the state.


Hi, Chris! Rally time?!

Chris (-Chris-) had reached out to me on ADV, and even pulled some strings with Ralph, who sponsored me so that I could crash the Squeal Like A Pig rally. An ADV rally, checked off the bucket list!

A plate of fried catfish was waiting for me, and a SLAP beer mug that would immediately be put to use. There was a raffle, checking out other people's bikes, and hanging out at fires. I suppose bike rallies are similar enough in concept, but this one seemed to have less shenanigans... except for the imminent threat of oncoming thunderstorm flooding the nearby river. At least half the attendees bailed by morning, but I pitched my tent under an awning between two picnic tables. If the flood warning was called, my plan was to empty the tent contents onto a table, grab the spokes in one hand, and steer the scooter to higher ground with the other. Save the scooter, have a dry place to wait out the rest. It's survived a flood once, it'll do it again.

Fortunately, the beer-emboldened plan never came to fruition. The thunderstorm was loud on the tin roof over my roof, but the waters stayed back.


High waters are coming for me again...but didn't quite make it.


Survived even without a fancy trailer.

Chris and I had been in touch, and planned to share the road for a few days. Some of the following photos are his. It was a blast to ride with him! I think he did at least half the miles on one wheel, too.


Riding buddy! Drizzly weather can't get us down.


Chris took photos along the way too, so there are some photos of me, ha!


Checked into Cliff House Inn in Jasper, AR, thanks to Chris.


Lots of riding around with views like this.


Get out of the way, you're in the shot.

Chris had a couple bygone amusement parks in mind to check out. First stop: Dogpatch USA.

Zmobie.


Dilapidation. The cars are with some vendors who set up shop in here now, like a craft fair.


Am I interrupting?


Chris has an important message to deliver.


Were they popular in 1986?


Oh boy.


I was going to climb over and cross the bridge anyhow, until Chris pointed out the poison oak all around it.Thanks for knowing and alerting me to nature, Chris.


That water looks suspect.


There was a path you could drive little bumper car things along, wonder if this was one of them.


No trains here.

We searched the only 'bar' in town for Fat Tire, a beer not available in Oklahoma that Chris was seeking, but Ozark Cafe said we'd have to go to the next county. I was still at peace with our takeout dinner, eaten on the deck while the sun set over the hills.

Traveling with someone, you get to share the exploration and adventure, but also the quiet moments. At the end of each day, I take notes about the events, names of people, trains of thoughts that I try to capture before they leave the station. Back in the room, American Pickers played quietly on TV, and I think we chatted a bit between my note taking. For someone I met just a day ago to now expecting to sleep just a few feet away, it was oddly intimate and ordinary at the same time. One of those dualities of the road, I suppose. I don't remember what my last thoughts were before I succumbed to the comfort of a real bed.

It's good to make friends.


The view from the cabin in the morning.


I woke up too late for this view, which Chris caught at dawn.


Splurging on breakfast!


Other friendly moto guests at the hotel. One of these bikes is not like the others...


The magnificence of Steel Creek.


Lunch break at popular biker spot, Cathouse Lounge in Eureka Springs.


Also, found beer.


Also, made friends at lunch!


Creaky wooden bridge, listen to that...


Ta-da, made it to the other side of Beaver Bridge.


Another defunct theme park today: John Agar's Land of Kong, or Dinosaur World.


Hmm...I don't read so good.


Kong looks like he had a rough night. Or decade, or few.


What a gentleman, pulling aside the barbed wire.


I admit, I laughed.


I didn't have waterproof boots but Chris did, so he actually carried me across this. All to see the dinosaurs.


Durr.


A living reptile!


At some point in time, this was entertainment.


You're doing it wrong.


Cell reception has been spotty in the Cretaceous period, maybe it's better up here.

A truck eventually did pull up and tell us we're not supposed to be there, but Chris turned up the charm and the driver let us continue exploring. The signs went up because they've had trouble with teenagers spray painting things on the property, but we're just a couple illiterate adults with no paint cans.


My bike looks like a toy next to the Tiger.


Larry has a cool shop.


I was not here, or there.


How much for the scooter in the window.


Adventure cat, Miss Moto Guzzi, is a 2000 model.


Larry recommended visiting this cool shelf rest stop.


So here we are.


Chris was way ballsier leaning out over the ledge for this shot.


He also captured the double rainbow! Riding around here is lovely.It's sort of like undiscovered Blue Ridge Parkway land, hills and turns and vistas, but no traffic!


Camping by this tonight.


Steel Creek Campground.


Picnic dinner of leftovers.

For all the dry counties, it sure seems a bit muddy and wet. In spite of (or to spite?) the rain, Chris started a fire after dinner - a luxury for solo-camper me. We located a couple bottles of Fat Tire in previous not-dry counties, which were sipped victoriously from SLAP mugs around the fire pit.


I'm going to miss riding with this guy.

After three days of riding with Chris, he needed to turn homeward. Another sad parting of ways, I was going to miss this goofball. I love how different travelers seek out different things on the road, I wouldn't have thought of exploring old amusement parks if not for him. It was brilliant fun following each other around the hills, no set routes, just chatting with locals and tooling around a motorcycle playground. Amazingly he ramped down for Vespa speeds the whole time. As he spun out of the campground that morning, the ache of going solo again was a little sharper. I couldn't keep my thoughts from revisiting the tired, grass-is-greener subject; maybe... maybe I should put more energy in seeking a longer-term riding partner...

In no real rush, I let the road take my mood. There were lots of little, light grey roads on my map on the way to Conway, AR, and I didn't care if they were paved.


Hmmdirt.


Found a graveyard tucked amongst the trees.


Loamy under the tire.


Scooter stays dry.


At a gas station in Scotland, AR. Apparently, I'm along the Trans America Trail.


Adding my name to the list.


Found a new riding partner?


Okay, nevermind. Maybe you don't want to hang out in the middle of the road.

Besides turtles, there seemed to be a lot of snakes crossing the road. They look like garden hoses left across the tarmac.


Hi Amy!


Public art!


Pretty cool.

Remember Amy, from Providence, RI but more recently West Lafayette, IN? It turns out she's working at the Shakespeare festival in Conway, AR. She had an extra bunk in her dorm, so I crashed with her, college style. In a move that nearly made me cry tears of happiness, she gave me a verbal run-down of all of the local shops as soon as I arrived. After the hills, college-town Conway seemed super hip.

Amy is one of those interesting people who is extremely occupied doing all the things that make her so interesting, so we only got to hang out in short spells. It worked out though, it was still good to see her, and I needed some recovery time for drawing catch-up in coffee shops.


Caught some rain, but there are some perks to staying with lady friends.

Blue Sail Coffee became my go-to office, but I did poke around a couple other cafes. At the Patio Cafe, a man struck up conversation after he saw me pull up on the scooter.

"You ride that from Rhode Island? What's that like?" He had scraggly hair, wore overalls, and was missing teeth, and it took me a moment to decipher the accent. It turns out he owned the Kawasaki parked in the back.

"Rhode Island..." he continued, "Is that...like here?"

"What do you mean?"

"Like, does it have roads and buildings and trees?"

I want to say he continued by asking whether I had to take a bridge or ferry to get to the rest of the continent, but I think that's my memory filling in for superfluous blanks. Much like the blank stare I must have given him while this information processed. I think I confirmed that it did indeed have roads, buildings, and trees, which seemed disappointing for him. Oh well. I guess I didn't know much about Arkansas before I arrived either.


Found beer, which is necessary with fried...anything, in my opinion.
Darn dry counties got me again.


Amy is like a superhero!

It was refreshing to see a familiar face even though she was swamped. The two of us and her roommate would find a perch on the couch or table, all three on laptops working on respective works. I ended up staying an extra day, and caught up with Amy for a taco dinner. Soon enough, I felt recovered enough to continue. Thanks, Amy!

The Ozark mountains and the Buffalo river are beautiful, and I'm glad you got to see them. Next time through you should come a little more Northwest to Fayetteville. It's a fun college town with plenty of good craft beer. Lots of bikes and scooters, too.

The great story and pics keeping coming......amazing, thanks!!!!!

fried okra

Fantastic as always! You shouldn't have any problem getting a long term ride partner, that you haven't been snagged before now just shows how many stupid people there are.
Keep the pictures coming I'm stealing ... archiving ... yeah, archiving them.

Why am I just now discovering this thread? You just kinda became one of my heroes.

Memphis As Fuck. May 22 - 24, 2015.



Prepare for food, scooters, and wrasslin', because that's what's happening in Memphis. I reached out to some folks at Memphis Kings SC for things to do and a place to crash, which is how I met Cassi.


Hi, Cassi! Her pink scooter also doubles for business as delivery vehicle for...


...Pink Diva Cupcakery. The concoction above has peanut butter beer you inject into the cupcake.

I've come to enjoy the stretching and compressing of time over distance, watching as cows and horse-lands give way to Dollar Generals and Subways, but I still feel a bit of whiplash coming into town. At a gas stop in Des Arc, AR, a man drawled at me, "Tha's a naice rahd you got there, son," but maybe he calls everyone that. Soon enough the Memphis skyline was rising before me. I'm back in Tennessee!

We wasted no time at Cassi's. She single handedly runs Pink Diva Cupcakery, and I was handed a sample upon entry. It was mostly gone before she mentioned all her food was vegan - score, no dairy repercussions for me. We had a dinner date with the other Memphis Kings, so we grabbed a few cupcakes from her shop and headed out to do Memphis-y things.


For instance, the Peabody Hotel ducks, which Cassi hadn't seen in years. These ducks live a good life.


 After hanging out in the lobby, the ducks are led back to their home in a miniature reproduction of the hotel on the top floor.
The guy in red is very enthusiastic. We wondered if his business card reads, 'Duckmaster'?


It's an old world fancy kind of hotel, complete with creepy dog statues guarding the stairwell.

Alas, Cassi's friend wasn't working in the hotel that day. Next tourist destination!


Checking out some Beale St shops.


A. Schwab's, Amazon.com shopping of yesteryear.


Tour of their soda fountain! Alton Brown's show introduced me to the concept of soda jerks.


Meeting up with scootery folk at Cafe Eclectic.


Through the forest to Shelby Forest General Store...steak and bluegrass on Friday night.


Banjo pickin' in front.


Lunch counter in the middle.


Seating for scooterists in the back. Steak (and cupcake) time.

Jay led us down the kind of small forested road where moonshiners might feel at home, but I didn't come across any white lightning. Just steaks and history, and fried pies?!

Anyhow, it was a lively evening seeing these guys again (I met some of them back at Amerivespa, or was it Bandcamp?). Just in case I was in a dearth of calories, Cassi presented me with this for breakfast:


Cake ends for breakfast. Ohhh boy.


Roundhouse Revival has shops, food trucks, and a wrasslin' ring, currently occupied by a blues band.
The idea is to save the Mid-South Coliseum from demolition.

Cassi explained to me Memphis' fascination with building new convention centers, but dilemma of what to do with their old ones. Today's event had plenty of supporters for not tearing down the Coliseum. She also explained that Memphis, while not a huge city, experiences a constant stream of events - there's never a shortage of something to attend.


Scooterists got hungry while waiting for the wrasslin'.
We meant to go to Central BBQ, but the line was tremendous.


Break for fried delicious things at Soul Fish Cafe with recent Atlanta transplants and a local.
Fryin' all the okra and tomatoes and pickles and crawfish and fish...


Back at the Mid-South Coliseum, the good guys won and the crowd goes crazy!

With the a good chunk of the Kings, we continued Memphis-ing around (right after all five of us followed Cassi for a cupcake delivery, which must have been amusing for the recipients - cupcakes delivered to your door, xoxo your local scooter gang).


Scoot to a Memphis institution, Jerry's Sno Cones.


Tiger's blood flavor.


Not done yet. Wiseacre Brewery stop. Their Earl Grey Pale Ale is killer.


Awesome mural of The King on shipping container bridge. 

The next day was frittered away at a vegan brunch with Cassi's friends, Republic Coffee for work, and the Central BBQ that eluded me before (it's pretty fantastic). Cassi and I decided that after a productive day the evening demanded homemade Bloody Marys, but there had been talk of a tornado watch.

We thought, Nahhh, Kroger is only a few miles away, we'll pick up supplies real quick and make it home in 15.


Nope.

I should have known the clouds would be hanging low in precisely the direction back to Cassi's. Within minutes of pulling out of the lot, the sky turned a sickening hue of yellow. We hit a curtain of rain, and visibility dropped to just a few feet. In clearer patches, you could see sheets of falling water blow in waves across the street, making ripples in the rising inches of water. The gusts pushed the bike across the road like a marble; Cassi had a cheap 50cc, I couldn't believe she was holding it straight. The sky lit up blue with lightning, thunder cracked. We were drenched, but at least there was no hail...yet.

Back at base I changed into a borrowed bathrobe (see I do wear pink, there's just no photographic evidence of it). Cassi flipped on the news to discover we caught the edge of this:


Newscaster said to stay at home and watch for flooding.
Too late. Tornado watch also in effect.

The light from the window alternated blue and yellow for hours, but we had Netflix and a pitcher of Bloody Mary - mine soon to be garnished with about 50 pickles and olives. Does this count as having ridden through a tornado? Maybe just a tornado watch?


Dried off and ready to roll. Thanks, Cassi and the Memphis Kings!

Thanks for the welcome, Cassi! I have a feeling I'll catch up to her, Jay, and Lettie again, but that's for later.

You have such an incredible ability to weave together the story and pictures along the route of your epic adventure. The people you meet and the wonderful places you share along the way have kept me glued to this thread for the last couple of months. You are truly an inspiration and a real hero of the MV forum.

Wishing you the happiest of trails in the new year.

Amazing, as usual. You could easily run a full season on Discovery or NGC. Keep spoiling us, Quezzie!

You are an inspiration to us all!

QUEZZIE FOR PREZZIE!!! 2016

Chicken and waffles. Breakfast of Champions.

This ride report reminds me of all the good and helpful people out there! I'm having a blast "riding along" with you. Looking forward to your next post.

Happy new year!

Really enjoyed catching up with this thread this morning. Awaiting the next installment. Keep the rubber side down.

Noting all of those food pictures.....seems you're eating well. Not sure how you do it....If I did that I'd be over 200 pounds by now. Oh, wait...

Great pics....enjoying the show!

fledermaus: I'm a notorious squirreller away of food, a restaurant order usually goes more than one meal. The soft cooler is working well for me!

Q: You seem to have an effortless effervescence on the road, and a genuine cheerfulness that clearly rubs off on most everyone you encounter. You do "immersive" crazy-well. (Quite happy the GTS survived those soggy close calls, too.)

Someone mentioned your writing (and why not?). I'll ask this: why not an offbeat book of your travels, replete with the very good photography you've shared here? I'd wager you'd do as least as good a job as, and likely better than, others I've read.

Where do I submit the application for riding partner?

For me, ADKJim arranged a meeting with Quezzie in South Georgia. Lostboater, ADKJim and I had a nice meeting and ride with Stephanie.

The highlight for me was for her to sing several songs while playing a ukulele in the cabin at Stephen Foster State Park. We convinced her to play Suwannee River, written by Mr. Foster. The namesake river flowed outside of the back door of the cabin.

We old guys enjoyed her company.

WLeuthold: Awesome shots and nice writeup! It was cool taking a road trip and meeting you, Jim, and Ken. Atlanta is cold and wet right now, I must admit good company and t-shirt weather in Florida sounds rather tempting.

amateriat: I like the word you used, "immersive" pun-intentionally. I would like to gather the illustrations I've done into a book of some sort, but I have to stay still long enough to actually get to it, heheh. It's hard to stay away from the road, but once the blog is caught up to Lubec and I have a break in my regular paying work (yeah I actually do that sometimes), it's been on my mind.

Sometimes, I don't think I know how to do it any other way than immersive!

We did until she read the lyrics and declared "I can't sing this. This song it is depressing!!". I had never paid attention to the lyrics but she was right, they are depressing. Needed Stephanie's positive outlook on life to bring it to our attention. A good time was had by all.