OP
UTC
Lurker
vespa rally 200
Joined: UTC Posts: 1 Location: bognor regis UK
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OP
Lurker
vespa rally 200
Joined: UTC Posts: 1 Location: bognor regis UK
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Im about to attempt my first legshield/floor replacement. Im guessing the first thing to do is to cut out the horncast section (to save and reuse) but im not sure. Any tips would be greatfully received.
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UTC
Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: UTC Posts: 8787 Location: Victoria, Australia
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Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: UTC Posts: 8787 Location: Victoria, Australia
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You can buy a horncast, but it comes with a flat section like a VBB. I have legshields and the horncast here but I still don't know how I'm going to attach the horncast and get it looking right. I'm not sure either how it was done originally, whether the horncast was actually part of the legshield pressing.
Looking forward to seeing how you solve the issue!
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UTC
Molto Verboso
Black 2007 PX200, Dark green 1986 PX225 Pinasco, "1972"(yeah rite) Tangerine px200, several TRIUMPH TIGRESS SCOOTERS
Joined: UTC Posts: 1082 Location: New Zealand
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Molto Verboso
Black 2007 PX200, Dark green 1986 PX225 Pinasco, "1972"(yeah rite) Tangerine px200, several TRIUMPH TIGRESS SCOOTERS
Joined: UTC Posts: 1082 Location: New Zealand
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Ginch, I dont have a rally, but looking at pictures of bare stripped frames, the top part of the horncast is pressed with the frame and the lower part covering the lower bearing is spot welded into place.
OP
This is absolutely not an easy job by any stretch. if i were you id be talking to fabrication shops after printing out some decent photos of your frame area that youve stripped.
The first part of any project is planning.
That includes taking measurements and pictures of the measurements.
The top part of the shields doesnt usually rust out, so one of the questions you might be asking experts is, what is it that i actually need to replace?
Can you drill spot welds in sheet?
if you are determined to do it, the spot welding stops warping as its located in 1 small area.
A fabricator might not want to do it if you start it and get it off then stop. The whole job might be easier for them from start to finish so they are assured of correct placement, theyll have all the measuring and fixing jigs that might be used before the horn cast and shield comes off.
first step is research and planning, chopping off souvenirs is probably the 4th step.
*edit* sorry my answers are a bit empty. im not saying dont do it. but have a plan, factor in that you know what to do once youve removed the legshields and the reproductions might very well need to be bent or shaped to fit the bare tube. If you dont know what to do, will you settle with that outcome?
The tube, how are you going to rust proof that, but still leave bare metal to weld? there iare weldable primers.
The placement is crucial, but not a deal breaker, id be more worried about having to rework the shield and avoiding warpage, so a decent welder/fabricator will need to be sought.
its not something id start by chopping stuff off
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UTC
Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: UTC Posts: 8787 Location: Victoria, Australia
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Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: UTC Posts: 8787 Location: Victoria, Australia
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Trumpy I guess you're right. The available legshields don't have the horncast as part of the pressing so it needs to be butt-welded to the legshield - after it's fitted to the frame I think. Then getting it looking neat will be an issue.
Perhaps Phil you could get away with just one of these? It would make the job way easier.
http://www.scootermercato.com/Scooter-Parts/Floorboards/FLRCURVED-VLB
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