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@chopper1966 avatar
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Super 1966
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Super 1966
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Hi everyone!

First thank you to everyone for all the help I have received in the past. I really appreciate the communities willingness to help!

My buddy had a 1974 Vespa Super that unfortunately got it's body bent in a crash. He is okay by the way. Anyhoos, my buddy has offered me his gas tank. I have a vespa super 1966 that has the old style gas tank, not oil injected. Since my super actually has a P200 engine in it, I figured, why not have my scoot mix it's own oil. We already drilled a hole in the body for the oil spy glass and got everything lined up correctly. There is just one last annoying problem, it seems like the choke cable is getting pulled.

The choke cable in mine is in a different place (higher up) than his super. The piece of medal tubing (the part of the body) that the outer cable sits in is holding the cable out too far. When installing the gas tank, it pushes the cable away from it, making it not seated correctly, which in turn keeps the choke engaged.

To me it seems like there are two options, cut the metal tubing down to give it enough space or move the choke (drill another hole).

Has anyone down this before? Any advice?
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Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
@cincycaddy avatar
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'65 Honda C100, '66 CM91, '79 P200E, '87 Honda Helix
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I would think moving the choke cable would be the easiest. You'll be doing a lot of trial and error leaving it where it is.
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If you move it, you'll be cutting the old one off anyway. I'd try cutting it shorter first, probably using flex cable MacGyvered into it for better flexibility. I think you'd also need to shorten the choke knob shaft & figure a way to connect the flex cable both ends. Just make sure the friction clip is still on the shortened shaft w/ choke pulled.
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Rally 180, li150, P125, p200, p200, p200
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A thought before you get too far....

Does that P2 lump still have the guts of its injector pump in it? Beyond that, I have often read that running the injector without it actually pumping oil will kill it. If you do have one, does it work?
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@chopper1966 avatar
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Super 1966
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Davetopay wrote:
A thought before you get too far....

Does that P2 lump still have the guts of its injector pump in it? Beyond that, I have often read that running the injector without it actually pumping oil will kill it. If you do have one, does it work?
Thank you everyone, some good advice.

Voodoo, can I ask, what did you have in mind. Do you have a picture of flex line? Thanks!

Davetopay, good thinking! I have already made sure the pump works. I took the clutch off and made sure it had the washer. I did take it out for a ride, took the top end apart and found oil.

Thanks everyone!
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By "flex" cable I mean the more flexible multi-strand cable like used for your throttle & gear shift, rather than the normal rigid single wire choke cable. . Or you could use bicycle cable.

As far as making the connections, the carb end should be easy, but at the knob end you'll need to get out your MacGyver skills. Drill a blind hole in the shaft tip a tad bigger than the cable & solder or epoxy it in?
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My solution.
I've done this and used a manual automotive choke cable set-up. They are pretty cheap at your local auto parts store. I drilled a hole on the side, close to the cowl latch, and mounted it there. Pulls out to the side rather than towards the front. Has worked fine for decades and people don't even notice it there.
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There is some information on scooterhelp.com about this being done to a VBA: http://scooterhelp.com/restorations/150.frame.html
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Hooked
GS160
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I've not read the whole thread, I'm in a hurry but wanted to reply fgast before anyone cuts anything.

I had a PX tank in my GS frame.

Used a PX choke cable which is longer, got the cable more out of the way. Still a little finicky to put tank in body but it works.

Sight glass cut from the inside (glass of course removed from tank...), plugged with Champagne cork and then trimmed close to the oil tank.

You drive hundreds of miles or kms on a tank of 2T. Use a dip stick now and then.

Imo a pity to cut new holes in an old body.

The length of the fuel lever is different too, at least on PX vs GS. It has to be about right to get easily thru the hole.

Good luck with your installation!

Edit: Dang, saw you already holed the frame...

//J
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If you cut it
you will lose the crimped section(red arrow) that keeps the cable outer in place. I had to fabricate a choke for a PHBL carb in a VB1 body, also tight to the tank. Here's what worked for me. The tube is replacement auto brake line and the clips are hardware store.

You could do the same to retain the cable outer, just Dremel or carefully hacksaw a slot about 1/3 of the way through, maybe a quarter inch from the new end & find a clip to fit. A fuel lever clip might work.

Tip: cut it a bit longer than your sketch, stick the cable approximately in place and dry fit the tank. If it all clears nicely, disassemble & proceed to the new slot or if not, now cut it shorter.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
goes in thru the original tap lever hole, no hole drilling needed
goes in thru the original tap lever hole, no hole drilling needed
same for a friction clip, so two places on mine
same for a friction clip, so two places on mine
tank has a tap valve w/ integral handle.
tank has a tap valve w/ integral handle.
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Super 1966
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Thanks guys! I really really appreciate all your input!
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I have done this on a 57 VNA. Don't cut the choke cable tube to move it. Just cut it off so its out of the way, grind down the front nub sticking out and fill the hole. Trying to move that tube will be a bigger pain in the ass than its worth. Trust me, I've tried it.

Go back to that wrecked super and cut the section out where its choke tube is. Take that, and grind off the excess metal. Drill your new hole where you want to put the choke, then insert freshly cleaned up tube from super, weld in place from inside the body. You will see that the back of the tube inside the body has a little flange on it that's tack welded to the interior for the frame. You want to get back to that, clean up the excess metal around that flange.

Mine looks perfect, like it was always there.

As for the oil, take the plastic sight glass off. Cut the tip off with a dremel, then cut the rest of the shaft off. Use marine grade epoxy and glue the tip to the base making a "cap" and just use a dip stick from now on. The bottom of the oil cap on top of the tank has a little hole, I glued a fibreglass rod to it. Works like a charm.
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I had a GL with oil injection. Just used a piece of 3" PVC inside the left cowl. 4 holes for U bolts and one for oil line. Let me see if I can find photo. I have that thing totally disassembled right now.
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Here go
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agree with JoeP, don't cut any holes. Do the setup as Joe suggested or SRatton's . Once you cut it, is is hard to weld up and make it look good again. I rarely looked at the sight glass to check the oil and the dipstick idea sounds pretty good to me. good luck.
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ScooterRaton wrote:
Here go
That is nicely done.
@mr10 avatar
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External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

Did this is on a GLx once, but I didn't have to move the choke.
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Sigh emoticon S.Raton's way is damn good idea if you don't already have a tank and haven't already successfully done the sight gauge hole and it is on topic & excellent to know, just not likely what OP is asking for.

Moving the choke or using a car choke could be necessary ultimately, but I think careful work can get the best solution w/ no unnecessary cutting, drilling or welding to get the result mr10 got.

Waiting to see what Chopper comes up with.
⬆️    About 4 months elapsed    ⬇️
OP
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Super 1966
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Everyone has great ideas thanks so much. Well I actually tried to shorten the metal tube the choke is in. That worked for a while, however, the gas tank already dramatized the metal tube and it broke off! I ended up moving the choke with Matthews help! He was able to make something similar to what voodoo has out of a large bolt. It works really well. [/img]
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Super 1966
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Super 1966
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Here's another
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@vintage_red_matthew avatar
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MV Santa
GTS250, 1975 VBC, 1980 P200E cutdown
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@vintage_red_matthew avatar
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The secret to that bolt is that it's not drilled the same diameter all the way through. I first drilled it through with a 1/8 inch bit then enlarged it to 1/4 inch on each end. About 1/2 inch deep on the back end to let the cable recess into and most of the rest of the way through on the front for the choke knob shaft to fit into. It uses the original cable. You can see where I cut a slot with an abrasive wheel to accept a clip for friction so the choke return spring in the carb doesn't pull the choke closed. It does work well, doesn't it?
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vintage red matthew wrote:
The secret to that bolt is that it's not drilled the same diameter all the way through. I first drilled it through with a 1/8 inch bit then enlarged it to 1/4 inch on each end. About 1/2 inch deep on the back end to let the cable recess into and most of the rest of the way through on the front for the choke knob shaft to fit into. It uses the original cable. You can see where I cut a slot with an abrasive wheel to accept a clip for friction so the choke return spring in the carb doesn't pull the choke closed. It does work well, doesn't it?
SO much more work for yourself. You could have bought a pre-made manual car choke assembly. You would have only had to drill one hole and it actually looks almost exactly like the stock Vespa choke.
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@chopper1966 avatar
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Super 1966
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Super 1966
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It wasn't much work, more creative and cheaper than anything. He had it done in only a few mins. Just drill with a press twice and cut a slit. It works really well! Excellent job Matthew!
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