Modern Vespa

I have a 6 volt battery-operated super with a short. My headlight/taillight fuse kept shorting out intermittently and it didn't seem to be too big a hassle until yesterday, when it happened 3 times. It looks like the short is in the green wire to the left of the (top) fuse (see pic below), it seems to be shorting out on the metal tab that keeps the cowl attached to the frame. The metal tab is rubbing on the underside of the connector and has worn the plastic off the connector so it's metal to metal. I didn't figure this out until it was getting kind of dark last night so I loosened the nut on the tab, wedged a doubled up piece of electricians tape under it, and tightened it again while pushing the tab down a little, away from the connector. I tested it out and it's not shorting now, but it's not exactly a permanent fix, either. It seems like the little cowl tab will continue to wear on the connector there and, once I replace the connector, it will wear away the plastic on the next one, too.

Are any others with battery-operated supers having this issue? Any suggestions on how to correct this? Seems like a stupid place for the metal tab to be, right in between the wires to the fuses. Sorry my picture is so lousy, it was dark and I had already shoved the tape in under there, so you can't really see the plastic connector or the wire, so you have to use your imagination

You're right, that is a stupid place to put the fuse box. I think it would be easier just to move the box itself and not mess/cut the tab. My '75 super had the box down lower, but I ended up going in a different direction and eliminated the signals and battery. I then only used an inline fuse for the lights coming out of regulator.

I thought about moving the box. Tried taking the fuse box off, loosened up the two screws that appear to be holding it to the frame, and it wouldn't come off, which is weird.

I'm thinking of taking off the cowl and cutting a chunk out of the tab. It looks like it might be the easiest way to access the wires to replace the plastic connector anyway. I can't slip the connector off with the metal tab in the way. The signals/battery system is all working well and it's all original, so I don't really want to eliminate it just yet.

You would probably have to partially remove the gas tank in order to get to the back nuts - that is, remove the seat, back tank bolts and hike it up high enough to get your arm down in there. I don't think you should cut the tab, it would weaken the panel lockup and may cause it to rattle. I find it hard o believe that the location that it is at now is the stock set up. Mine was only a year later model and it was mounted quite a bit lower. Crazy.
Honestly, I think you should just remove the panel to get it out of the way and I'll bet you find a better spot to mount the fuse box in. If you do remove the panel, send a few pics in. Greater minds than mine can have a look then.

ugh, I figured there were probably back nuts in there. I was only able to re-tighten one of them, so one probably fell off inside. I'll go get it one day! I really don't feel like pulling up the gas tank, I'm afraid I'll break something else. Like the oil sight glass. That would mess up my day.

It is crazy the stock set up for the fuses would be so close to the cowl tab, but I guess as long as the insulation is in place it wouldn't be a problem. It's interesting that yours is mounted lower and it's only a year newer. They must've figured out it was a problem and moved it the following year.

Why do you think cutting a small notch out of the tab would be a problem? I'm just thinking of a very small notch, enough for it to clear the connector. Seems like it would be easier than relocating the fuse box. I don't think the integrity of the tab would be compromised.

On a side note, is that cowl tab where the signal flasher is supposed to be mounted? Previous owner had it laying on the floor of the glovebox with rubber wrapped around it I noticed that when the brake light is on while the blinkers are flashing, the brake light flashes a little bit, too. Would mounting the signal flasher there address that issue, do you think? I'm going to try it when I take the cowl off.

I took off the cowl, pic below. Taped over the plastic connector covers for more insulation and tweaked the tab on the cowl a little to give more clearance, but it's really tight in there. Someone has tweaked the tab previously. The screw that the tab slides onto is right on top of the wire, so I taped over the wire there, too, even tho it wasn't compromised. Just in case. I still think it would be easier to cut a notch in the cowl tab rather than relocate the fuse box, but what do you all think? Does anyone see anything that looks really out of place here?

It's no longer shorting out, so that's good.

Also, last pic - what is this spring mounted on the inside of the cowl? Is it for keeping your flask from rattling around in there? Holding your Marlboros? (it was the 70's ) it must have some purpose ... give me some ideas!

Springs probably for a toolkit that came with the scoot. Can you loosen the fuse box enough to change the angle it's sitting at? What about bending the wires that come out of the fuse box enough so they give more clearance? I'd ghetto rig anything before I ever started cutting, but that's me.

Agree with MJ, you could angle it, even a full 90 degrees and I bet it would give you plenty of clearance, but I see you already cut it. The spring is for a tool bag to keep the rattle down and from hitting the battery terminals.

Good job on tracking down that short & the temp fix. If you still have the cowl off, unscrew the fuse box cover & pull the fuses. You'll see it's held on by 2 screws w/8mm nuts on the back side. I think you can make a good permanent fix by pulling the screws, remounting it w/ the top screw in the fuse holder in the bottom hole hole in the frame, then drill a new bottom frame hole right thru the fuse holder. That will keep it pointed the same way, but low enough to miss the cowl tab, which you can now restraighten. You can plug the old top hole to keep water out.

I have found old registrations behind that spring, seem too small for a tool bag or the spring would be all stretched out. I put photocopy of my reg in a ziplock and slip it behind the spring.

No, I didn't cut it. That pic was taken before I did anything. It looks like somebody tried to bend it out of the way previously. I did bend it a little more to try to give more clearance, but it didn't help much.

I tried tilting the fuse box but it wouldn't turn. I think I'd have to lift the fuel tank up like you initially suggested to get at the nuts back there. So yes, V oodoo, I did think about moving the fuse box down like you suggested, but I can't get at the nuts without lifting up the fuel tank. I need to order a new gasket for around the fuel tank so maybe when I get that I'll try again. Though I'm not sure I want to drill a hole. I'll probably drill thru something important :/

As for the spring, I don't think it would be big enough for a tool bag ... also there's a big plastic battery/wiring cover so I don't think anything will be hitting the battery terminals maybe I'll secure the rubber-wrapped flasher thing there. It def wouldn't secure at that cowl tab like I thought, there's not enough room.

Would one of these 90 degree (flag) crimped connectors help? Some auto parts stores have them.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=flag+quick+connector&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR1.TRC0.A0.H0.Xflag++connector.TRS0&_nkw=flag++connector&_sacat=0

Maybe ... I think it would have to direct the wire upward and the side of the tab would still be in the way. It def wouldn't work to route the wire downward, except maybe for the bottom fuse. I might go find one and check it out, tho. Thanks for the idea!

Ok, my bad, I can see that now. Also, the flasher unit used to be located on the right side of the battery containment area (box) on my Super.

Where was it mounted? I don't see anywhere for it to mount on mine. Unless it goes under the battery?

All I can recall is that it had some sort of goofy tab that screwed into the side. yours looks a little different. Socal guy may be able to supply a Pic of his Super in this area.