Modern Vespa

Not that bad at all, just not instantly a Vespa.
Imo it was the connected brakes which did not go down well.
And why they went to the trouble of hydraulic brakes and then not fit a disc up front

Here is a for the key off battery drain:

That is one sleek looking beast! Never seen one of those. I can picture you in a tuxedo standing next to it for a photo shoot. If that scoot had some go juice, I wouldn't hesitate riding it all over the place.

Someone rode vintage.

Thanks. I read online that a transistor in the CDI can fail and cause the cap to cycle (charge and collapse) but I don't understand why would it be doing the same thing with another new CDI when it's only seen 12v from the battery and hasn't even run yet.
I'll look for a manual.

My friend has a kodiak 400 that he brought over to my place for me to get running last year. It was too far gone so i brought it back over to his house. He ended up selling it a few months ago as a non runner. His was kinda rusty in some areas. I'd say double check that all the grounds are in great condition. Other than that, i'm not much help.

More planted geometry? Tell me a bit more about that SaFiS... is it not the same fork? I think the case has a bigger (possibly longer?) shock mount but not entirely sure. Does it have a longer wheelbase? What's different than a P?

Or his camelhair brown trench coat - the style mavrick that he is!

...which has been passed down 2000 years from generation to generation from John the Baptist himself.

Ginch: Totally different on every aspect. Wheelbase is 1270mm, runs on 100/90-10 tires and 2.50x10" wide rims. Bigger, heavier, robust frame. Different 'angled' fork with the shock mount cast in. To the untrained eye, it will look like the fork is bent. Bigger, longer shocks (255mm at front, 415mm at rear). Engine is also different, especially on the front mounts. There's a wide tube that is slipped in rubber mounts in the cases and the main mounts which are also longer are installed in the tube (a real PITA to replace them). And then you have the linked hydraulic brakes which are brilliant when they don't leak and work as they supposed to. There was also a version with an early ABS or EBC as they called it, made by Brembo. You really have to ride one to appreciate it but it's UGLY

V oodoo: Kidding aside, I have 3 Cosas and have future plans for one of these (the one with papers). It's definitely getting a T5 headset though which suits it best...

Been chasing down an issue on a p200 I have. At high rpm its breaks up, cuts out, feels like a pretty gnarly misfire. It's mildly built up, 210, reed valve, box exhaust etc. stock ignition. Timing has been double checked at 18°. Replaced the cdi. Jetting is fine (within spec of many others with identical setups). Only thing I haven't done is replace the pickup coil. FMP has a couple different videos showcasing the EXACT same issue I have and in both videos he blames the pickup coil as the culprit. I have a new one on the way, hoping that's the solve. I'm bringing this as a backup race bike to the race next weekend. If anyone's near Syracuse, NY and wants to do some extremely fun and laid back racing, I'd say this is the place to start! Free camping at the track!

My starting point would be the CDI, so if you've replaced it with a Known Good CDI (and not just a new/Believed Good CDI), then I'd move on to the coil, the sensor, and the flywheel alignment.

Have you been able to replicate it with a the timing light on it? Determine if it's missing or jumping around?

LOL, looks like this fellow beat me to it
Paolo Martin - https://www.speedholics.com/post/paolo-martin-my-first-car-fifty-years-on
Dang, he forgot to mention his Cosa design

Well at idle with the timing light, it all lines up, but when revved up the marks disappear. Which I'm assuming is the misfire showing itself? The new cdi and the original cdi functioned the exact same. Riding "normally" the scooter is fine. Once high revved it breaks up. Stator and wires all visually looked fine. The pickup is ordered and on its way in the mail so that will be next "fix".

Your timing should be measured at 4-5,000 RPM's. Below that, it's going to be too bouncy to get a good read.

If it's disappearing at higher RPM's, something else is going on, but it's obviously still firing since the engine is running.

Sorry that's what I meant, at idle (no throttle) I can see the timing marks I've made, though slightly choppy. But once revved up to where I'd normally check timing (4-5k rpm) is when the markings seem to disappear/not visible at all.

My money is on the pickup and flywheel magnets not being in proper alignment.

Do you know the trick to finding if they are lined up properly using some blu-tak or similar?

He's not even close to your Maverick Stylish bravado!

Spotballing a bit here. But...weak flywheel magnetism?

I don't know why it would fail to charge the CDI at higher RPM's, but if the spark is weak, maybe power output isn't keeping up. That could also be the bad coil, though, so this doesn't rule anything out.

Can you hang a 17mm wrench off the flywheel?

Yeah, fly wheel is new. "Lightened" flywheel from Mercato. Plenty of magnetism.

I´d suspect spark plug or plug cap.

Cheers for that Safis. Very interesting, that fork is not bent in the direction I would have assumed it should be bent for more stability. That rear shock mount is very chunky! I've seen that one in the pics before, much nicer. I had seen comments before on this. Is that where the pickup is too high or low on the stator plate to be triggered by the magnets?

A big victory last week fixing weak bus brakes. Suspected the brake booster servo, but had to rule out the 40 miles of vacuum hoses, boots and clamps that provide vacuum.

Getting the old one out was a grunt…the usual fun of hardware that hasn't seen a wrench for 50 years. New booster has a different stud pattern so had to weld new metal to the bracket and drill new holes. The joys of cramped out of position welding.

But it works flawlessly! Hard work feels good when you manage to fix the actual problem. Love those gotcha bastard moments.

Seems important.

New SIP indicators switch with an integrated button for the SIP speedo and LML covers for behind the switches…

Apologies. I missed this post. YES you are correct, the misalignment can be too high or too low causing issues for the halls effect sensor (pickip) at high RRP. The mahnets overlap each other somewhat and the duration time at hig revs over the pickup is insufficient to accommodate the misalignment

I like that.. A LOT!!

While coming to a stop at a military checkpoint north of Loreto BCS, my clutch cable snapped just as I got to the soldier. Hilarity insued as my motorcycle chugged right on by till I hit the kill switch. The soldier spoke too fast for me to understand but I showed him the floppy lever. I pushed the bike off to the side and a couple more soldiers came and took a look.

While getting out the tool role a nice man getting inspected came over and asked me if I needed anything. People in Baja, whether locals or from the States are pretty good about helping each other out except the group of Harley guys that buzzed right past me.

Half an hour later I was back in action and made it down to Cabo San Lucas. I even think the repair might get me home. A ziptie is my new cable length adjuster. I'll poke around and see if I can scrounge up another cable here just in case.

Resourceful!

Got me a new Scootah! Its a little rough, and might be a bodge; but I just couldn't resist

Looks like AI had a brainfart and some factory in China produced that

Probably not freeway safe.

Good on gas, though.

I'd like to find one - on second thought, Milady would probably nix it in our "decor". So, yeah, no.

Can't wait to see this one in the Vespa's that have left the house thread!

She'll be on the road in no time

I've been catching up deferred maintenance and break-fix tasks. Stupid stuff like the Lammy's headlight power wire deciding to break off the switch. I think it's just jealous of all the attention the GL has been getting.

I also changed the shifter cables in the GL since they were well past the point when I should have replaced them. Also, I had to replace them because they were so chewed up, I was unable to run a new inner after a cable broke. At WKAARP.

Getting to the kickstand on a Lambretta , I realize one has to disassemble the entire bike.

You discover that applies to a lot of Lammy tasks.

Buy these, will make your life soooooo much easier.

https://slukshop.uk/product/sluk-clip-bridge-fitting-kit-for-lambretta-s1-s2-s3/

I haven't gotten to refitting the bridge yet… is it a PITA?

Taking it off and putting it back on is ONE of the worst things you do routinely on an Lambretta. These take a 30 minute job and turn it into a 2 minute job. It's the first thing I install on any of my bikes. Without them you, have to line everything up, with all the proper trim bits, hold it in place and manage your hand blind above the exhaust holding a tiny 4mm nut, and washers. It's the WORST.