chandlerman wrote:
SoCalGuy wrote:
Hahaha ^
Got a tach on the smallie, finally.
Got a tach on the smallie, finally.
How'd you mount it?
bodgemaster
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chandlerman wrote: SoCalGuy wrote: Hahaha ^ Got a tach on the smallie, finally. How'd you mount it? |
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Wrapping up a ride. 4 Vespas, a Lambretta and a Sportster 1200. My friends Vespa soft seized and broke his rear shock an hour later limping home. Found out the shock broke cause the tire was rubbing and spitting rubber out.
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chandlerman wrote: SoCalGuy wrote: Hahaha ^ Got a tach on the smallie, finally. |
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MJRally wrote: Wrapping up a ride. 4 Vespas, a Lambretta and a Sportster 1200. My friends Vespa soft seized and broke his rear shock an hour later limping home. Found out the shock broke cause the tire was rubbing and spitting rubber out. |
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Shock failure definitely caused the rubbing. Owner said he checked the tires pre-ride and there were no problems.
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V oodoo wrote: Today I finished up a little project for a friend. Can you guess what's going on here? ![]() |
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Effing brilliant as always Voodoo!! We all have an old stand hanging around... might need a longer bit across the top to use on a largeframe.
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its still early in June and we had a winner 8) 8) Brother T is the winner of this month DIY and tips
now i can put all the bricks to retire, as normally i just put brick under my centerstand to make it tall while droping the engine and put a plastic bucket to hold the frame up ![]() have a great day to you all and cheer |
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i got endorse..
got a new performance front shock that build by Mr. Toni from a moped rear shock, and my smallie is the mouse lab
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Went to save about $100 by reusing some 90/90 tires from the P on the smallframe, but stripped a hub stud. End result: spend about $100. I can't catch a break on these scooters lately.
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sdjohn wrote: Went to save about $100 by reusing some 90/90 tires from the P on the smallframe, but stripped a hub stud. End result: spend about $100. I can't catch a break on these scooters lately. |
Johnny Two Tone
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Well there is that Ginch. It's the type with studs cast in, so no repairing it. I thought the nuts were supposed to be softer than the studs. I never use an impact except to remove, so just crappy quality.
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76 Sprint V, 63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella, 66 Smallstate, 66 Lammy S3
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On the ol' Stella, which is that Quality Indian Steel, I've drilled out stripped hub studs that wouldn't release, then re-tapped as an M8 and installed a bolt into them with some loctite.
The bolts were definitely harder steel than the studs. I'm pretty sure the original studs were made of grey play-doh. |
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Chandler man did you cut off the stud and drill from that side? I may save this one for later and try that.
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sdjohn wrote: Chandler man did you cut off the stud and drill from that side? I may save this one for later and try that. ![]() (In)action shot
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I did one once, and of course it wouldn't turn. I drilled it out to 80% from the back side, then was able to grab it with vice-grips and unscrew it.
Chandlerman, love the inaction shot... you should be a sports photographer! |
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Ginch wrote: I did one once, and of course it wouldn't turn. I drilled it out to 80% from the back side, then was able to grab it with vice-grips and unscrew it. Chandlerman, love the inaction shot... you should be a sports photographer! I finished off the carb re-tune on the VBB along with various other little fixes, mostly electrical, now that the SIP Road is on it. It's not as fast as the Stella, but it's still pretty damn fast. Not a lot of top speed since it's stock Stella gearing w/ a 22t clutch and 8" wheels, but it gets there really quickly. Still no working speedo. A VBB speedo cable's collar nut was too big for the back of the speedo, so I need to figure out which cable I need to order. It's the only part measurement that I can't seem to find listed anywhere. I was going to use that hub to build a wheel balancer. I have a spare axle, the hub, and the fly side needle bearing, but can't find a junk wheel side axle bearing. My old parts hoarding tendencies are letting me down, so I ordered a cheap bearing off Amazon. Prime FTW. At this point, my Amazon recommendations are getting pretty damn weird, though. |
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Finally got the Stella out on the highway for the first time since I blew up the cruciform.
Ran solidly, but the dip in the power curve at 6,500 RPM's was 65 MPH, so right where I was cruising. No problem holding speed with a headwind, but the CHT was up to 475 by the time heat soak had settled in, which is just a little too warm for my tastes. I'm going to richen up my needle by one clip and see if that richens things up a little at half throttle and maybe solve both problems at once. |
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Yeah, but isn't that in Australian Degrees, which are only like 3/4's of a US Degree?
![]() I went out and googled and the the best writeup I found said an Aluminum head can be run up to 500, even though the ignition point of gasoline is only 495. Of course, if there's any gas on the outside of the motor when that happens...well...let's just say I don't want to be able to provide a first-hand comparison of which is worse, a scooter on fire in your garage or underneath you at highway speeds... |
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When we cross the state border we need to adjust the degrees by 1.4 precent for every degree of latitude we are above Hobart, Tasmania, divided by current hectopascals of pressure at sea level. Every kid in school knows this by the time they're 5 years old... easy peasy.
So you guys have a different calculation huh? ![]() |
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Lucky
76 Sprint V, 63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella, 66 Smallstate, 66 Lammy S3
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Lucky
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Yeah, our formula is similar, but you adjust by 1.7% for the number of state lines between you and the Southern border of the US along your current meridian.
It wasn't bad for me because I grew up in Texas, so no adjustments, but those poor kids up in new England must've had a terrible time. They can cross a state line just running out to get some milk and eggs. |
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chandlerman wrote: Yeah, our formula is similar, but you adjust by 1.7% for the number of state lines between you and the Southern border of the US along your current meridian. It wasn't bad for me because I grew up in Texas, so no adjustments, but those poor kids up in new England must've had a terrible time. They can cross a state line just running out to get some milk and eggs. |
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chandlerman wrote: Yeah, but isn't that in Australian Degrees, which are only like 3/4's of a US Degree? ![]() I went out and googled and the the best writeup I found said an Aluminum head can be run up to 500, even though the ignition point of gasoline is only 495. Of course, if there's any gas on the outside of the motor when that happens...well...let's just say I don't want to be able to provide a first-hand comparison of which is worse, a scooter on fire in your garage or underneath you at highway speeds... Read more here https://www.pilotsofamerica.com/community/threads/overheating-cylinder.86419/ ![]() |
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Lucky
76 Sprint V, 63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella, 66 Smallstate, 66 Lammy S3
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That's a great graph and makes a lot of sense. Even though I'd found references which say I'd have been fine past 450f with a newer all-aluminum top end, I still got more and more nervous as the temp continued to climb. I've ruined cylinders without seizing them because of scratching after localized overheating, usually around the exhaust port.
While I'm certain that the materials science behind modern Aluminum alloys has improved since that was published in 1949, I still think 450 is a reasonable upper limit, especially on a motor I'd like to not blow up any time soon. I was running at half throttle, which is 6,500 RPM's in 4th, so right in the trough of the dip in my power curve, so I already know all is not quite right there. I also think, like I noted above, that my high temps in that range are related to the power dip through that same RPM range, where it should be peaking, I just haven't had a chance to try richening it up there. |
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Ginch wrote: 475 is indeed impressive, but you'll need to try a little harder Chandlerman! |
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Me too, I always figure "no more than four".
You can see on the chart that the cliff that the strength falls off of is at about 200C or about 400F. Above that most common casting alloys will start to crack and hot tear under load. There are modern hypereutectic alloys with 16% to 19% silicon used for pistons that can go higher, but they are difficult to cast properly and rarely used for other parts. More here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hypereutectic_piston Quote: The average temperature of a piston crown in a gasoline engine during normal operation is typically about 300 °C (570 °F) |
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MJRally wrote: Ginch wrote: 475 is indeed impressive, but you'll need to try a little harder Chandlerman! In general, this motor runs super cool, like under 300f. It's just that half throttle in 4th gear on the highway that I need to sort out, hence my suspicion that I'm so lean right there in the middle of the power curve that's it's dragging my performance down. |
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MJRally wrote: Ginch wrote: 475 is indeed impressive, but you'll need to try a little harder Chandlerman! |
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