OP
UTC

Member
vbb
Joined: UTC
Posts: 39
Location: edinburgh, united kingdom
 
Member
vbb
Joined: UTC
Posts: 39
Location: edinburgh, united kingdom
UTC quote
My VBB had an advisory at its last MoT regarding play in the headset bearings whilst braking. (For non-UK folk, that means a warning but not a fail.)

I've adjusted the bearings before but thought I would just buy a complete new set (nuts, washer, bearings and cup) because they're fairly cheap.

According to videos I've seen, the lowest part (cup or housing, see photo) should just pry off with a screwdriver or similar. Mine is absolutely rock solid - the chipped paint shows my attempts to remove it.

Does anyone have any tips how to get the wretched thing off?
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
@mjrally avatar
UTC

Veni, Vidi, Posti
73 & 74 Rally, 76 ET3, 80 P200, 61 Ser 2, 65 Silver Special,, 2015 HD Road Glide Special
Joined: UTC
Posts: 5289
Location: Oceanside, CA
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
@mjrally avatar
73 & 74 Rally, 76 ET3, 80 P200, 61 Ser 2, 65 Silver Special,, 2015 HD Road Glide Special
Joined: UTC
Posts: 5289
Location: Oceanside, CA
UTC quote
Top and bottom bearing races are pressed in there solid. You'll need to beat them out of there. I've never tried it but I heard a while ago to get a broom stick or black pipe, and hammer that to force it up/down and out. Same thing works for the bottom bearing race.
UTC

Veni, Vidi, Posti
Joined: UTC
Posts: 7616
Location: Tega Cay, SC
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
Joined: UTC
Posts: 7616
Location: Tega Cay, SC
UTC quote
If it looks ok and the bearing rides in there fine, leave it alone. As MR MJ mentioned pipes, heat and a heavy hammer is involved in removing unless you have profession tools to remove.
@socalguy avatar
UTC

bodgemaster
63 GL, 76 Super (x2), 74 Primavera (x2), 79 P200, 06 Fly 150
Joined: UTC
Posts: 7296
Location: So Cal
 
bodgemaster
@socalguy avatar
63 GL, 76 Super (x2), 74 Primavera (x2), 79 P200, 06 Fly 150
Joined: UTC
Posts: 7296
Location: So Cal
UTC quote
As stated, it has to be punched up and out from inside the tube. SIP has the tool you need for about $25.
@unforgiven avatar
UTC

Enthusiast
VBB '64
Joined: UTC
Posts: 58
Location: Dhaka, Bangladesh
 
Enthusiast
@unforgiven avatar
VBB '64
Joined: UTC
Posts: 58
Location: Dhaka, Bangladesh
UTC quote
same issue
I am also looking for the full kit, but read somewhere no one makes top and lower cup anymore. so i may leave the cup alone, also cant find full kit in SIP as well for my VBB model in SIP
OP
UTC

Member
vbb
Joined: UTC
Posts: 39
Location: edinburgh, united kingdom
 
Member
vbb
Joined: UTC
Posts: 39
Location: edinburgh, united kingdom
UTC quote
It's stayin' there
Many thanks for the advice - decided to leave it alone and hope I've not dislodged it.

Taken aback by the number of specialist tools on SIP's website - it's taken me years to get a proper flywheel extractor and fuel tap removal spanner and I thought I was well-equipped at that!
@chandlerman avatar
UTC

Innovator
76 Sprint V, 63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella, 66 Smallstate, 66 Lammy S3
Joined: UTC
Posts: 11286
Location: Nashville

39 Days Since Last Explosion
 
Innovator
@chandlerman avatar
76 Sprint V, 63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella, 66 Smallstate, 66 Lammy S3
Joined: UTC
Posts: 11286
Location: Nashville

39 Days Since Last Explosion
UTC quote
I'm generally a "right tool for the job" guy, but I still don't have a proper flywheel holding tool, though I did finally get a clutch holding tool a month or so ago. I'd tried to order one at least four or five times over the years and it was always on backorder from wherever I tried to buy it.

Now that I have it, I will never go back to my big-ass screwdriver (the same one that I used to fix my fork stop, as a matter of fact).

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